So you thought that 10 psi is the same for all turbos...?sileghtychad wrote:hey, im new here, but i have pretty simple question about turbos that nobody seems to answer or want to answer, my question is: i have a sr20 black top with a gt2871r, its set at 10 psi, and i have a to4e that im going to set at 10psi that im getting ready to install. now i used to think that 10psi was simply 10psi, but now im figuring out thats not the case, the to4 will put out more power at 10psi than the gt23 will at 10psi, but why? if somone can pleas answer this for me or point me in the direction! THANX!!!
whats "afr"oh and my Oil Pressure Switch is leaking oil...im assuming i would need a new one correct?OutToWinPAHC wrote:If you afr is off due to a bad 02 sensor the knocks emmisions will also be off. I would replace the o2 first.
If it has hicas, you'll see all sorts of steering hardware back there. I'm also pretty sure a "HICAS" light will light up on the dash when you turn the key to the on position (and not start it).Caveit77777 wrote:My noob question for the day. Looking to buy a s13 but don't want hicas. How can I identify it so I can avoid it?
It happens a lot when you have another daily driver that doesn't completely suck. You can look at old pics of your car... or think about how screwed you'd be if something were to happen to your daily.TroubleBound wrote:How do you guys get motivated when you start to lose interest in your pos prject taking forever? I havent worked on my car in like a month nothing is keeping it from starting and driving but me not working on it. But i have a daily driver 240 coupe and i just haven't felt like going over there recently. It's smelly and cold and leaky it's a s*** garage but it's only 50 a month. That and i am always alone there. I just can't get my a** from off the couch or off my skateboard to go work on it.
Does this happen to you guys? What do you do to regain interest or get some motivation? I try looking at people builds on Nico for inspiration and at nice 240's but i just would rather look at them online then go get pissed off and cuss and scream and not get anything accomplished to my hatch./vent
Well, all you have to do is sand them real good so some primer can adhere. 220-320 grit paper should be fine. You only use bondo if you have imperfections. If there are holes or cracks, they need to be repaired with fiberglass... if they're plastic, the need to be plastic-welded. So, sand, prime, paint. You may have to wetsand when you are done to perfect the clear coat, i use 1000-1500 grit for clearcoat imperfections.Dire91 wrote:Paint Question: A family friend has a body shop and paint booth and I want to get my front & rear bumper covers and side skirts painted. I'm not sure about how I should go in prepping these things. All of them are already painted items. What are the steps I should take with sanding, bondo etc... so I can have them ready for paint?
well...when i was looking for the leak.i saw oil coming out of the oil pressure switch, it was dripping slowly.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:oil leaks are sometimes tough to diagnose. Oil can leak one place and then run along something and look like its coming from somewhere else.
Your front main seal could actually be leaking, and then it just blows backward toward that area. Pretty tough to diagnose over the internet really.
If it has hicas, you'll see all sorts of steering hardware back there. I'm also pretty sure a "HICAS" light will light up on the dash when you turn the key to the on position (and not start it).
Simple, it'll have tie-rod ends in the rear... as well as a rack & pinion. There is also a hicas light on the dash, and a solenoid under the hood. Here's a link, you'll find almost everything in a search:Caveit77777 wrote:My noob question for the day. Looking to buy a s13 but don't want hicas. How can I identify it so I can avoid it?
The lower bushing (hole at the bottom of the strut) has 2 different sized openings in it (its probably got a lead-in cone type shape to it). Make the larger opening face outward towards the outside of the vehicle.GaMBiTx wrote:hi,i installed the rear strut/spring today and but i didnt quite understand the lower bushing part the fsm refers to..."When installing upper spring seat, ensure that larger inner diameter side of lower bushing is facing outside of vehicle and smaller inner diameter side of lower bushing is facing towards vehicle."
http://174.143.96.117/BIN/images/KYB/SM5154.jpg (right one is lower bushing)
Can anyone help me...im also using kyb108 strut boot...dont know if i installed it correctly cuz it ddid not look like what was on the the old strut/spring at all...thanks.
i installed it in like this pic, but i couldnt put the metal plate back cuz the bump stop on the boot was too big, please help!!! http://buykyb.com/catalog/images/KYB/sb108.jpg
Modified by GaMBiTx at 7:43 PM 1/15/2010
I'm not 100% sure on this, but I'm pretty sure the S13 components won't fit in your S14. The dash and wiring harnesses (...and body panels) are one of the few places the 2 cars differ.dabears_23 wrote:Hi im thinking about buying a digital climate control and a digital gauge cluster for my S14
I want this one
on ebay it says its for the S13 but will this fit on my s14?
i dont really like the other one, this one says for S14
but i will settle if installing the s13 one is not complicated
also
i bought a gauge cluster like this one, also labeled for an s13
i havent take the cluster down but is it just plug in the harnesses and thats it or what? that goes for the climate control too, is it plug and enjoy?