I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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Dire91
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:Proper offset wheels and tire size. And most people who run 10's are too afraid to put a real tire on it.
I should check the tire size later but I shouldn't have rubbing if I drop the car with 18x8.5 +33 right? Maybe I can just cut away the part of the plastic the wheel is rubbing who knows.


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OutToWinPAHC
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I have a 17x9+35 with a 245 on it in the rear of my S13. I am going to a 285-40-17. S14's offer a little more room in the rear from what I have heard. Is that plastic pieces supposed to be there? Is it something emissions related?

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240
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will my se wheel of a s14 clear a front z32 brakes? by clear i mean that the caliper wont rub against the wheel.

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Dire91
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:I have a 17x9+35 with a 245 on it in the rear of my S13. I am going to a 285-40-17. S14's offer a little more room in the rear from what I have heard. Is that plastic pieces supposed to be there? Is it something emissions related?
The plastic is to protect what I believe is some electrical wires and maybe fuel hoses.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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DRIFTKNIGHT_240 wrote:will my se wheel of a s14 clear a front z32 brakes? by clear i mean that the caliper wont rub against the wheel.
If you get the 26mm brakes, then it should. If not, you could just run a small (5mm) spacer.

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slim_240
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DRIFTKNIGHT_240 wrote:will my se wheel of a s14 clear a front z32 brakes? by clear i mean that the caliper wont rub against the wheel.
yes they should clear. i've got s14 se wheels on my s13 with 30mm z32 brakes. like a 1mm of clearance but they do clear

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JoseBronx
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Im about to do a 95 ka to a 91 swap, do I need to have a 91-93 intake manifold?

and other then

1991-1993 parts:-Wiring harness (tach if you want the tach to work)-ECU-Power steering pump AND lines. Unless you like the pump to heat up massively and consider catching fire.-A/C compressor and lines. (unless you can make a bracket for your original one.-Distributor and coil-Intake manifold-Throttle cable/cruise cable(if you like things all nice and neat)-Extension Piece that goes from butterfly to intake piping(again, if you like it nice and neat)-MAF

what else do I need?

Thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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JoseBronx wrote:Im about to do a 95 ka to a 91 swap, do I need to have a 91-93 intake manifold?

and other then

1991-1993 parts:-Wiring harness (tach if you want the tach to work)-ECU-Power steering pump AND lines. Unless you like the pump to heat up massively and consider catching fire.-A/C compressor and lines. (unless you can make a bracket for your original one.-Distributor and coil-Intake manifold-Throttle cable/cruise cable(if you like things all nice and neat)-Extension Piece that goes from butterfly to intake piping(again, if you like it nice and neat)-MAF

what else do I need?

Thanks
In a short answer: yes, you need the 91-93 intake manifold. You shouldn't need a new tach.

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JoseBronx
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thanks, so far I unplugged/unscrew tons of stuff so I think Ive gotten pretty far.

Is there are more detailed thread about s14 ka24de to s13 swap? no luck finding one except the on the tech articles.

and can I use a harness from a auto ka24de s13 for my manual 95 ka24de swap?


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PapaSmurf2k3
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JoseBronx wrote:
and can I use a harness from a auto ka24de s13 for my manual 95 ka24de swap?
Engine room harness yes, I'm pretty sure you can.

zerothread?id=391803

mitul
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hi i just looked at a 93 coupe with vlsd and a hud160k

my mechanic who inspected it said not to buy a 240sx at all lol

it had a paint job(tk3) 2 yrs ago but it is flaking off on the hood exposing rust everywhere else it looks great

electronics/ ac/power steering all work and it drives fine, however the engine is leaking oil from everywhere and it probably needs a new starter (oil does not drip off the car however, it sticks to the frame)

i have heard a ka24de costs around 400-600 how much would it cost for labor to put one in

how much should i offer

would it be better to buy something like this for 1800 (s14 base auto, needs paint)http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/1507790484.html

thanks just looking for opinions

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PapaSmurf2k3
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if its blowing oil all over the frame but not really leaving any drips on the ground, its most likely a front and/or rear main seal. You don't really NEED a new motor in that case, but it might be just as easy/cheap. Those are things you want to replace on the new motor before putting it in anyway. Look to spend around another $500 or so for removal and installation, more if work has to get done to the new motor.

I'd probably offer the guy maybe $1000 for the car, mostly because its got the VLSD, and only if its a 5 speed.

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billabong093
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Ok, im in the middle of my 300zx brake upgrade / 5 lug swap. Im almost done with the fronts, very easy. As for the rears, i have the 300zx knuckles and hubs, everything need to go 5 lug. Im questioning whether i want to swap the rears though because of the time involved. What would be the best way to retain stock s13 rear brakes on a 5 lug hub? I've heard that people redrill the 240 rotors.. but i have the Z rotors, which are obviously already 5 lug, will they fit the 240 calipers? that would be really easy. Or do i have to buy 5 lug 240 rotors... ughhh.. thanks again guys

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OutToWinPAHC
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S14 SE 5lug rotors will work for you just fine.

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billabong093
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grr. Another thing to buy. Do you know if the Z rotors will work by any chance? Should i just test fit them?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I'm pretty sure they wont. The overall diameter is bigger... so to make them work, you'd probably have to buy/fabricate some sort of bracketry for the stock calipers to raise them up.

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youngmoney
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hey when you bolt down the fuel rail is there anything between the injectors and the intake? i dont want to bolt it down and then find out i was supposed to put something between the two.

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youngmoney
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hey also does anyone know where i can find exhaust manifold studs? they dont have them at autozone and i cant find any on ebay. i really dont have money to buy a whole new e.m.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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youngmoney wrote: hey when you bolt down the fuel rail is there anything between the injectors and the intake? i dont want to bolt it down and then find out i was supposed to put something between the two.
IIRC there was some sort of rubber land that went around the injector hole, so the injector didn't sit on bare aluminum. Other than that though, just make sure the O-rings are on there and you should be good.
youngmoney wrote: hey also does anyone know where i can find exhaust manifold studs? they dont have them at autozone and i cant find any on ebay. i really dont have money to buy a whole new e.m.
The studs don't come in the manifold, so don't worry about that, they are in the head. You could try hitting up a junk yard for them. They should be the same studs for any KA (240, altima, frontier).

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youngmoney
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damn thats another thing i have to buy. i dont even know if i have the o rings i have to go check.

so if i buy a new manifold studs wont come with it? arp e.m studs are like 90 bucks so hopefully they do come with it.

i appreciate the help by the way. thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Where would you even buy a new manifold from? Those aren't very common items.

Try emailing the guys at http://www.courtesyparts.com for the exhaust manifold studs. They won't run you $95- that's for sure.

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youngmoney
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alright i just put the distributor on. surprisingly i wasnt 180 degrees out. so when i turn the motor by hand is there anything i should be looking for??

thanks for that site by the way. ill for sure email him when i get a little money

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youngmoney
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come on no one has ever turned their motor by hand? i want to get this project going. what should i be looking for?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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you want to make sure that none of your valves are hitting your pistons. That's all I can think of.

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youngmoney
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i assume i will feel it if they do?

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youngmoney
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DAMMIT! every f***ing aspect of this build has been ridiculously difficult!! i was turning the motor then it just stopped. the valve covers on but i assume one or more probably ALL of the valves are hitting the pistons! when i first bought the car i loved it now i want to sell it. i single handedly proved theres no god. at least i accomplished something on this build! so what now? whats next? do i have to take satans timing chain off? what? i hate life its official. please someone get back to me about this. im ready to take the damn car out in a field and blow it up

joker350gt
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Is a ka24 from an altima a direct swap into a 240? I found a low milage motor for 150 from an altima also my 240 is a 91 auto but I just need it to run while i get together my swap

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youngmoney
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naturally i overreacted when i thought the valves were hitting the pistons. i called my brother and he reminded me of the valve springs existence. it was just the resistance from the valve springs that i was feeling. sorry for the outburst (not that anyone read it)

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youngmoney
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oh i forgot to reply to the guy above me. i dont think it would be a direct swap seeing as how the altima is fwd and the 240 is rwd. dont quote me on that though, but im pretty sure.

altima's have a variation of a ka? i just bought mine a week or two ago so i dont know anything about them.

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billabong093
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Hey guys, I have a '91 s13 coupe, i've switched to s14 manual belt sin front, so i dont have those stupid lap belt assemblys in the back anymore. Wondering if an s14 carpet will fit my car? (i dont want an s13 carpet with big unecessary bulges lol)


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