troskinatior wrote: he also said i needed a duel cam cluster cuz the single cam cluster didnt read but when he was driving the rpms and speed read, so why do i need a duel cam cluster?
troskinatior wrote: he also said i needed a duel cam cluster cuz the single cam cluster didnt read but when he was driving the rpms and speed read, so why do i need a duel cam cluster?
Well... did the cluster work? If not... then yes, you need a dual cam cluster.troskinatior wrote:dual cam cluster
Holy moses... those might work on a Honda or something, but they will be uber sunken on your 240 unless you run some gigantic wheel spacers. I'd worry about them hitting/rubbing as well.fightinchunk wrote:i found a set of work vs-xx's that i'm thinking of picking up... but the offsets kinda worry me. will 18x8+47 in the front and 18x9+56 in the rears work? i'm afraid they might rub/smash into the strut assy
I do have a manual boost controller i plan on installing after i start the car but i thought a wastegate did something different than the boost controller..like released excess pressure? Is that what a BOV does? Im so confused )= So should i run these two vacuum lines and just leave the plug unplugged? Or just not hook any of it up at all? If i do hook it up (which isn't hard or a problem) which one of them is vacuum and which one is boost?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:As long as you have a manifold vacuum/boost source, your wastegate will function at its spring rate. I'm assuming by "wastegate control valve" you mean boost controller... and I didn't know the stock SR came with one, but then again I don't have an SR.
You could just rig up a manual or electric boost controller and call it a day.
Cool Thank You Zach. I was so confused before haha i've never had a turbo (never even seen one before i got mine) i think i finally understand now. And the first time i looked at that pic i didn't realize that the 'boost pressure solenoid' was the same thing. You are the man.zach-Ka wrote:zerothread/305170I have left mine un-plugged.Boost controller tells the waste-gate to open and relieve pressure in the exhaust housing so it does not surpass the desired amount of boost. BOV relieves pressure in the IC piping when throttle plate is closed suddenly, so that the air doesn't travel backwards through the piping and smack into the compressor wheel.
Yeah the MAF is between the filter and turbo, and it is on the stock plastic intake. It does have a hole in it already that looks like it would be perfect for the BOV recirculation if i decide to do so, but i suppose if there is no disadvantage to releasing it into the atmosphere, then i will just do that? For less hose and more pssh noise =) Thanks Again.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:If you are going to recirculate the BOV valve, then I'm assuming you will be running a suck-through MAF (meaning your MAF won't see any boost, as it will be on the intake side of the turbo... between the turbo and the air filter). If that is the case, then you will need to plumb the blown off air between the MAF and the turbo. Whether your intake is all set up for it already... I have no idea. Is the pipe from your turbo to MAF stock (and plastic)?
Why would it?Most track cars have coils and they usually sit for the off seasons.Dire91 wrote:So I have a dilemma! I started college this year meaning my car sits around most of the year. I am home for a month starting December 18th but after that the car will sit in a garage for 4 months. I recently just installed new rims and am eager to buy and install coilovers. I was told though letting the car sit on the coilovers is a bad idea and will ruin them. Thoughts?
If you vent it to the atmosphere you run the risk of stalling coming out of boost. Blowing off that much metered air could cause such a catastrophic rich condition that it would stall the engine... or shoot a sweet fireball out the exhaust.TroubleBound wrote:Yeah the MAF is between the filter and turbo, and it is on the stock plastic intake. It does have a hole in it already that looks like it would be perfect for the BOV recirculation if i decide to do so, but i suppose if there is no disadvantage to releasing it into the atmosphere, then i will just do that? For less hose and more pssh noise =) Thanks Again.
so what offsets should i be looking for on a typical wheels size for an s13(i'm assuming 9 - 10 in the rear is typical). I'm not looking to run overfenders for the time being. is +45 the absolute limit on a 10 inch tire/wheel or is that too high?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Holy moses... those might work on a Honda or something, but they will be uber sunken on your 240 unless you run some gigantic wheel spacers. I'd worry about them hitting/rubbing as well.
Courtesy Parts has them listed as a different part number, but extremely close.http://www.courtesyparts.com/k...cat=1SOHC= 22620-S13004DOHC= 22620-S13006It could be pretty much the same damn thing, with a different wiring connector on it or something. Do you have a junkyard at your disposal you can compare them with?Heavy wrote:does anyone know if KA24E and KA24DE "Throttle Position Sensors TPS" are the same?
Eh... that one could go either way. I don't know too much about the 240 autos, but if there is a trans pressure sensor, and you unplugged it, it might actually go the other way and decrease the line pressure. Just try it out and see if it works. If it doesn't, plug it back in and disconnect your battery for 15 minutes to reset the TCM.dsm turned nismo wrote:I read that u can unplug the trans pressure sensor and that will increase line pressure and give me fimer later shifts in my 1996 s14? Anyone able to answer this? It doesn't seem right to me?