That's probably good seeing that I plan on running on safe boost 7-8psi for a daily up here at college. Also if I were to change the setup could they reprogram the ecu so I wouldnt have to drop another 600 for another ecuPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:The ONLY negative thing I hear about them is that the tune is usually a little on the safe side... which really isn't a bad thing at all.
There is a fee for re-flashing the ECU, but it isn't as high as the initial setup. I think its in the range of like, $200.Dire91 wrote:That's probably good seeing that I plan on running on safe boost 7-8psi for a daily up here at college. Also if I were to change the setup could they reprogram the ecu so I wouldnt have to drop another 600 for another ecu
Either way its going to be a decent amount of work, and not for the mechanically un-inclined. I'd keep the KA for a while so you can build your knowledge base on it. Do a compression check and keep an eye out for leaks and things... and fix them as necessary. What type of horsepower are you looking to make?240twoforties wrote:Hey all, quick question. I just got my 91 hatch, it's pretty much stock with the KA24DE in it. I want to either go the forced induction route on the KA or just save and throw a SR in it. I don't know which way to go though, being the motor's got 180k on it and I don't know if it could handle a turbo, but i'm not comfortable or technically savy enough with 240's to do a swap quite yet. So what should i do?
There should be a technical drawing available in the FSM, which are available for download for free through NICO. There is a link in my sig. Other than that, the only thing I could do for you would be to go out and take a pic of mine... which wouldn't do you much good.billabong093 wrote:Ugh. So my car (1991 s13 coupe) came with no rear seat belts. I recently purchased a set and i have no idea how to install them. I installed the buckles (nice and easy, obviously) but as for the shoulders i feel like im missing something. If any other coupe owners can help i'd appreciate it. Also, do hatch seatbelts work in a coupe? i hope i didnt buy these for nothing...
The motor is pretty clean, guy who had it before me practically rebuilt it and just about replaced everything but the block. And for the short while i've driven it it runs strong. As for power, I'm looking for something that'll fit in the DD/track car mold. Not too much power but enough to get up and go.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Either way its going to be a decent amount of work, and not for the mechanically un-inclined. I'd keep the KA for a while so you can build your knowledge base on it. Do a compression check and keep an eye out for leaks and things... and fix them as necessary. What type of horsepower are you looking to make?
Snapped this last night.billabong093 wrote:DAMMMMMM. I think i bought these belts for no reason. Im like, 95 percent sure that the s13 coupe and hatch have different rear seatbelts, i just need a picture of the rear seat and belts installed in a coupe to confirm.
$55 for nothing.. now im going to have to try and sell thse dam things..
Sounds like the guy doesn't know how to drive a stick... why weren't you driving? That's generally how it goes (the prospective buyer test drives the car... not the guy selling it).troskinatior wrote:im looking to buy a 89 coupe with a 97 duel cam swap. but he was driving it he stalled 3 times in a row and the shifter kept poping out and he said it was because of a bad clutch, does that sound like the problem or is it something bigger?
and since im hear, he also said i needed a duel cam cluster cuz the single cam cluster didnt read but when he was driving the rmps and speed read.
Edit: o ya and when stoped he had to rev it to like 5,000 to start moving and it kidda felt like he was spining the tires but didnt hear tire squeel.
1= Post-throttle vacuum source (like FPR vacuum or something)TroubleBound wrote:
And what do these three ports hook into?
Sounds good. Do a compression check and then maybe price out a basic turbo setup for it. I'd stick KA... and do something simple (under 230hp at the wheels). Visit our KA-T forum for all the details.240twoforties wrote:
The motor is pretty clean, guy who had it before me practically rebuilt it and just about replaced everything but the block. And for the short while i've driven it it runs strong. As for power, I'm looking for something that'll fit in the DD/track car mold. Not too much power but enough to get up and go.
1) You can keep your stock E-brake until you convert the rear calipers to the Z32 calipers... then you have to get a little funky with the E-brake cable to adapt it to the Z32 E-brake. There are a few writeups on NICO on how to do it.justinedible4 wrote:hey everyone. I got some lingering questions.
1) When you convert to five lug with the z32 calipers, rotors, cables, bmc, what happens to the e-brake?
2) After looking at many suspension setups, I have noticed that no aftermarket wheel has weights for balancing on the outside face. I was wondering how do shops balance these pricey wheels?
3) Would the Diamond racing steel wheels look better in 16x9 or 17x9 on a stock body s13? Just looking for opinions.
2) Oh cuz whenever I get my wheels and tires balanced they usually put them on the outside. idkPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:2) The weights go on the inside of the wheel... not the outside.
3) Entirely opinion based... your offset is going to matter more than your wheel diamater. Look for something under +35ish
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/91-94/EM.pdfyoungmoney wrote: anybody? i really want to get this project moving again.
helpful thread in general, but im still stuck it just says "install timing chain". HOW?!TroubleBound wrote:http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/91-94/EM.pdf
how much tension should be on the lower timing chain? i managed to get the upper timing chain on, but now theres too much slack in it too. my crank pulley is lined up but passed that im confused on how to time the rest. are the dots on the camshafts supposed to line up with something in the motor? idk im confused (obviously).PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:What part exactly are you having a problem with?
You put the chain around the gear... then you relieve the pressure on the tensioner, and put the chain around the other gear(s)?