I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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Sounds like a fuse. Time to start pulling and checking

I wouldn't think it would be larger than 15 amps, and should be located in the interior.


RentonD
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Sounds like a fuse. Time to start pulling and checking

I wouldn't think it would be larger than 15 amps, and should be located in the interior.
Thx a bunch. Actually nothing interior works at all. No wipers, no blower, no lights, no radio, no clock, no power windows, no power locks. Thanks though. Time to start checking!

satangettinsideways
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Car: 1993 nissan 240sx coupe. ka24de.

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hey ive been a nico lurker for the past few years but now i finally have something to post. so i live in california and im trying to smog my ka24de. low mileage and its in great shape. only thing is that my guy thats gonna smog it says i need to have the line that goes from my plastic oem intake. on the left hand side of the intake if youre looking under the hood, there are two nipples. one being a larger one that goes to the intake mani i believe, and the other is a smaller one that is plugged off. my guy says i need to connect that to whatever it goes to before he can smog it, but it passes emissions no problems. again i say its a 240 couple with a ka24de and its the farthest left little connection on the plastic oem intake. everyone ive asked also has this line plugged off and have no idea where it goes. any information would be greatly appreciated. i know im a noob to the forum so help me gain some pride and help me fix this tiny little problem haha.
Beancooker wrote:This thread is for the new members so that they are able to ask a "repetitive" question. ANYTHING that is 240 / 180 / Silvia related.

This is only for questions and specific answers that may be related to any 240 / 180 / Silvia.

This is for newbs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.

ALL MEMBER RESPONSES SHOULD BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.

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S14toRPS13
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Posting pictures would help more, but there should be a big hose connected from the intake to the engine valve cover. Some people like to put a small filter on there instead. There's another big hose that comes off of the intake and it connects to a pipe under in between the upper and lower portions of the intake manifold. The smaller one might go to the nipples under the throttle body. Check under the throttle body for any missing hoses. IIRC, there are 4 under there. I don't have my car here for me to confirm this so someone correct me if I'm wrong. There are 3 small nipples under there and 1 medium sized one. The 3 small ones should have hoses that have a color band around them also. It's been a while since I've got a chance to work on my car let alone a KA so hope this helps a little bit.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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satangettinsideways wrote:hey ive been a nico lurker for the past few years but now i finally have something to post. so i live in california and im trying to smog my ka24de. low mileage and its in great shape. only thing is that my guy thats gonna smog it says i need to have the line that goes from my plastic oem intake. on the left hand side of the intake if youre looking under the hood, there are two nipples. one being a larger one that goes to the intake mani i believe, and the other is a smaller one that is plugged off. my guy says i need to connect that to whatever it goes to before he can smog it, but it passes emissions no problems. again i say its a 240 couple with a ka24de and its the farthest left little connection on the plastic oem intake. everyone ive asked also has this line plugged off and have no idea where it goes. any information would be greatly appreciated. i know im a noob to the forum so help me gain some pride and help me fix this tiny little problem haha.
Sounds like you are talking about the Air Intake Valve (AIV). There is a hose that runs from your air intake filter box to a valve that should be near your driver's side strut tower, and then a pipe that goes down into the exhaust. Nissan deemed it useless and removed it on later years....

There is a link to the Factory Service Manuals in my sig... you might want to click there and see if you can get a diagram of exactly what you're talking about.

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240tunerguy
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i have a sohc ka24. recently i have had a intermittent ticking noise, sounds like valve train noise. it comes and goes, whether or not the engines is cold or warm. ill be driving for 20 minutes or so, the ticking will start, it goes from quiet to loud, and then all of a sudden it quickly dissipates, usually only lasting about 5 minutes. im running 10w30 motor oil with a quart of lucas in it. im thinking it is too thick for the cold weather, but once it warms up it shouldnt be so thick as it warms up and gets more viscous. its really worrying me and dont want to have to do another rebuild or cause any damage to the engine. any ideas nico?

edit: as the rpms go up so does the ticking. runs smooth, not like a bent valve, had one of those before so im pretty sure its not that. just replaced timing chain and guides
Modified by 240tunerguy at 6:46 PM 11/23/2009

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AZ89two4Tsx
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Sounds like the good ol' KA lifter knock. A LOT of KA's have them, including mine. Nothing really to worry about.

joker350gt
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some one show me a reason to keep my interior tan/brown on my s13 coupe

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PapaSmurf2k3
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joker350gt wrote:some one show me a reason to keep my interior tan/brown on my s13 coupe
That's not really a question...

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Dire91
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So I just got new stock rear rotors and they have already rusted up. When taking photos of my car the rusted rotors really stand out, I have already found a way to clean them but I have a question. Do aftermarket rotors rust up as well because with nicely modified cars I tend not to ever see rust on the rotors.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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The wearing surface will always rust with normal steel rotors... probably not as much with the carbon/ceramic brakes on exotics.

They do make regular steel rotors with anti-rusting zinc coatings so the hub area doesn't rust though. They are all over Ebay.

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TroubleBound
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Say my SR came with a HICAS power steering pump and i didn't have money to get one until after January. It doesn;t look like the belt connects to any other accessories could i just start the car and drive it home without a power steering pump and belt or does it need to be hooked up?

Hah let me sneak in a two part question, how retarded is it that CXRacing put this BOV flange here? Will any problems arise because of this? Thanks

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PyR0NiAk
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TroubleBound wrote:Say my SR came with a HICAS power steering pump and i didn't have money to get one until after January. It doesn;t look like the belt connects to any other accessories could i just start the car and drive it home without a power steering pump and belt or does it need to be hooked up?

Hah let me sneak in a two part question, how retarded is it that CXRacing put this BOV flange here? Will any problems arise because of this? Thanks
You don't need power steering to drive the car, so no, driving without the pump and belt, will not hurt your car. The only belts that need to be installed are your water pump and alternator.

I can't see why any problems would come from using that bov flange where it is. If you cut and flanged it for a different bov in a different location, you'll just have to plug it.

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You can hurt the rack driving it dry. At-least fill the hoses with fluid and then cap them off with a bolt and hose clamp.

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PyR0NiAk
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Good catch OTW. My bad for not mentioning that.

joker350gt
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
That's not really a question...
ma bad


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Nismo775
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Alright. My car has a loss of power. It holds back like a little stutter then gets power. I did a tune up, changed my fuel filter, used that cleaner injector stuff and still does it. Any help? Possibly a vacuum leak? It has power from 2800 till about 3700, then it loses power then gets power back around 5200 up to redline. It's never done it before till about couple weeks ago. The engine has about 217XXX miles btw. Thanks

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Could be a vacuum issue, leaky injector, dirty bad maf, or an 02 sensor. Do you have a check engine light?

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billabong093
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*Found the Answer*
Modified by billabong093 at 11:13 PM 11/26/2009

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Nismo775
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i dont. it happened from one day to another. one day it ran fine, next day runs like crap!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Nismo775 wrote:Alright. My car has a loss of power. It holds back like a little stutter then gets power. I did a tune up, changed my fuel filter, used that cleaner injector stuff and still does it. Any help? Possibly a vacuum leak? It has power from 2800 till about 3700, then it loses power then gets power back around 5200 up to redline. It's never done it before till about couple weeks ago. The engine has about 217XXX miles btw. Thanks
You should also check your engine grounds for corrosion. Mine did the exact same thing when my engine ground was actually broken.

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Nismo775
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
You should also check your engine grounds for corrosion. Mine did the exact same thing when my engine ground was actually broken.
thanks ill do that. i did notice that it has some power now but still lags it. ill check up on the grounds. thanks

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Deedilus
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Hey guys I've got a question about 240's in general.

I'm looking for a used car that I'll be able to pick up cheap. I've always loved the looks of 240sx's and 300zx's, so mainly because the 240 is cheaper to get I've been looking at it a lot. I just want to know how reliable are they mechanically. I currently have an '03 focus, I modded the engine up a bit, but the thing is a POS. How much am I lookin at dropping to get a nice 240 that I won't have to spend twice as much as I pay for the car just to get it to run reliably?

Heavy
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quick question- i might be going to pick up a set of 280zx turbo wheels and i hear that you have to buy shank style lug nuts? i just want to be certain before i go and spend all this money.

and im guessing the thread pitch is 12x125?

where would i find these?


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OutToWinPAHC
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M12x1.25 is your lug specs, you should be able to get them anywhere. Any parts house.

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Heavy wrote:quick question- i might be going to pick up a set of 280zx turbo wheels and i hear that you have to buy shank style lug nuts? i just want to be certain before i go and spend all this money.

and im guessing the thread pitch is 12x125?

where would i find these?
i would look in a junkyard bro

you DO Need these; getting them from the dealer are rediculous somethin like 7 bucks for each- you could probably get the whole set from the yard for under 10 (or take them, if your not morally objective to that stuff)

i guess you could get an aftermarket one but they have to be a similar design; i can pos a pic of them if u want......

i sold a set to didderson for mad cheap (had 2 sets)

Heavy
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yeah if you could post them up so i know what im exactly looking for thad be sweet

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Dire91
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I have some questions on engine management for going turbo. I was thinking AEM F/IC but then I heard of Jim Wolf Technologies. Anyone have experience with JWT ECU's, good or bad? Also the previous owner did a 5 speed swap and instead of getting the proper ECU he turn off the engine check light like a dumbass and I had to deal with a s*** load of crap when I got inspection. My question is if I send them the information of the ecu I need and what my turbo setup is planned to be they can program it all correct?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Dire91 wrote:I have some questions on engine management for going turbo. I was thinking AEM F/IC but then I heard of Jim Wolf Technologies. Anyone have experience with JWT ECU's, good or bad? Also the previous owner did a 5 speed swap and instead of getting the proper ECU he turn off the engine check light like a dumbass and I had to deal with a s*** load of crap when I got inspection. My question is if I send them the information of the ecu I need and what my turbo setup is planned to be they can program it all correct?
Yeah, JWT ECUs have been around forever... and I've really never heard anything bad about them. You can tell them what your setup is, and they will tune the ECU to your specifications. The ONLY negative thing I hear about them is that the tune is usually a little on the safe side... which really isn't a bad thing at all.

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TroubleBound
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What is this? Do i need it?Took it off during KA removal/engine bay painting, and now im onto SR installation and don't remember )=.

This one too:Which looks kind of like a KA version of my next question, which is what the hell do i do with the 8(!) ports on the ignitor chip?:



I think i know where #7 goes, into the ignitor chip plug on the main engine harness, the other 7 i have no clue.


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