If you do the work yourself, you are looking at $500-650ish... if you pay a shop, my guess would be around $1200-1500.Kas-Z wrote:Hi. I was just given a 92 240zx by a friend who wasn't able to trade the car in. It still runs, ac works and all, but her brother tore something up driving it last week. It is an auto trany, and the car will not engage any gears. What all would I need to get to switch to a manual, and how much do used manuals run buying from guys off of here? Sorry, I know this is a total noob post, but I was just presented this opportunity a few minutes ago and have to make a decision quickly about if i wanna do it or not.
Nope, you want maybe 15-16 at idle, then under low throttle, low RPMs, maybe 14:1, then when your boost starts hitting (3000 or so RPMS), you want it somewhere between 11.5 and 12ish... all the way to redline.SpecD_240sx wrote:I'll think on that, i still gotta finish planning out my build before I start buying stuff. I got one other question though, when talking about AFR and that stuff, if your boosting a KA, am i right to say that you'll want the afr to around 14.7 at low rpm, and around like 5000 rpm get it so it starts getting more rich, and around 6000-6500rpm around like 13 ish? Not sure i'm getting everything i'm reading, so just wanted to check.
thanks
So an estimate to have a shop basically rebuild the CA, remove the old engine, and install the CA? Probably 2.5-4 grand.Sgt. Kong wrote:I am preparing to have a CA18DET swap done on my pignose. I just need a ballpark estimation of the expense, less the engine price. I intend to do it proper, taking care of the prevenative maintenance i.e. h2o/oil pumps, timing belt, gaskets, cometic HG and ARP head studs. So.... theres my question. Any and all other tips and or information that yall may think I will find helpfull is as always greatly appreciated.
This is the one i bought. Not sure about he fitment yet though, Its at my friends house and i wont be installing it until around christmas.Dire91 wrote:I can't seem to find the rubber plug to use to cover up the antenna hole, any help?
You could use no E-brake... or the Z e-brake. I don't know EXACTLY why (I haven't done the rear Z brake conversion), but my guess is because the 240 uses an internal drum E-brake... and either the Z doesn't (maybe uses cable actuated caliper), or the internal drum is somehow different from the stock 240.billabong093 wrote:Im in the process of doing the a 300zx brake and hub swap on my 240, getting the parts from my z32 parts car. Do i have to use the 300zx E brake or can i just use the Z calipers, rotors, and hubs? I'd rather just keep the 240 e brake if possible.
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
You could use no E-brake... or the Z e-brake. I don't know EXACTLY why (I haven't done the rear Z brake conversion), but my guess is because the 240 uses an internal drum E-brake... and either the Z doesn't (maybe uses cable actuated caliper), or the internal drum is somehow different from the stock 240.
the stock 240 uses the caliper as the ebrake. since you're already swaping out the hubs, might as well slap on the ebrake shoes from your 300zx while you've got everything out. you'd have to use the 300zx ebrake cables also.billabong093 wrote:Im in the process of doing the a 300zx brake and hub swap on my 240, getting the parts from my z32 parts car. Do i have to use the 300zx E brake or can i just use the Z calipers, rotors, and hubs? I'd rather just keep the 240 e brake if possible.
This is one mod I've truly never understood. The stock 240 e-brake is NOT weak. And there's a reason new performance cars use disc brakes instead of drums.. Just something to think about before you go swapping to the rear 300zx brakes...slim_240 wrote:
the stock 240 uses the caliper as the ebrake. since you're already swaping out the hubs, might as well slap on the ebrake shoes from your 300zx while you've got everything out. you'd have to use the 300zx ebrake cables also.
btw, stock 240 ebrakes are weakkkk