I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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OutToWinPAHC
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Rustybirdcage wrote:alright, i'm not exactly sure if anyoen on the forum has done this, or even knows anything about this, but i've seen a few videos on youtube of guys running ford 302 V8's in a 240sx, and what i would like to know is, would it just bolt right in, or would i have to do custom motor/transmission mounts, ald a custum oilpan as well, does anyone here know about this?
This swap is easier then a LS or SBC swap, but they do not bolt in. You don't have to back the cross-member like I had to in mine, but you still need to fab mounts. Check out the hybrid section, a few members have done it.


Stab4fun
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just bought a 96 s14 shell, doing a 98 front conversion. i want to know if i can get away with just the bumper brackets and skip the reinforcements. basically what is the absolute minimum hardware needed to mount the kouki front bumper?

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PyR0NiAk
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the inner support beam is required for your car to technically be street legal... It's not needed to mount it though... most people that do huge front mount intercoolors either cut a huge notch in it or just remove it all together.... the problem is, without that support and without a intercooler, your bumper will most likely look saggy... I mean honestly... Unless you're making room for something, why remove it? Don't tell me weight reduction either...

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240
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hey i got a Q'S ..

am putting new tires ... and am thinking 215/50/16 for all 4 tires will that tire fit my 95 se 240sx ,,, i mean is there gonna be any touching or rubbing ?????????????

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You should be fine as long as you aren't going to run any gangsterlicious offset wheels.

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1996N1ss@n240SX
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DRIFTKNIGHT_240 wrote:hey i got a Q'S ..

am putting new tires ... and am thinking 215/50/16 for all 4 tires will that tire fit my 95 se 240sx ,,, i mean is there gonna be any touching or rubbing ?????????????
where are you at in the sunshine state?...hopefully ur close to me so we can start some drift events

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240
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am at West palm beach close to ft lauderale.... e mail me some time

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240
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yea i got the stock one from the se model .... the 5 lug and 5 spokes wheels ... is that going to be fine .????

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PapaSmurf2k3
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If you can fit it on the wheel then yeah. I thought the max you were supposed to go on that sized wheel was a 205 width. I could be wrong though.

But no, you won't rub anything.

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OutToWinPAHC
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I saw a 315 on an 8inch once. So I would guess you could go nuts with a 255, but it would be unsafe and silly looking.

Keep it in the 205-215 range if you want wide, but you want that sidewall support and flex.


2g00d4u
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2g00d4u wrote:Im still stump with this issue.

Im still getting a low idle when I am stepping on the brakes at a red light or reversing. On a cold start the idle is a bit jumpy around 700-800 RPM (Both in P and N position). Once warmed up (1-2 minutes), the idle is fine. It stays around 750-800.

Its just when Im reversing or at a light the idle drops to 500-600. I dont notice any loss of power.

What I recently done:

-Changed oil and oil filter-Changed fuel filter-Changed PCV valve (wasnt able to find any leak on the hose, may have to try again)-Cleaned MAF-Seafoamed crankcase and intake manifold-Put in some fuel injector cleaner (didnt use seafoam, not enough)-Checked plugs and wires-Replaced dis cap-CTS

The last time I checked for codes, I got 32 (EGR) and 13 (CTS). I reset codes the other day and the CEL came on again when im on the freeway and when I get off onto the streets it dissappears .

Anyway, I will check for codes again and hopefully code 13 is cleared up.
Wow, been busy lately. Some good news. I checked for codes and the CTS code cleared. I still have code 32 though.

Also, the last 4-5 days, the car has been idling somewhat better. Today was the most noticeable. I drove to school this morning and I noticed that while idling at a red light, the car doesnt shake much at all (compared to before). Idle hoovers around 600-650 though (compare to 500-550 where it felt like dying). Idle at P/N is still around 700-750, so thats fine.

I cant remember if the CEL came on after I reset the codes. I think it may have, but its most likely code 32 still.

I'll see what happens when I leave school later today.

I still havent changed the o2 sensor even though I bought one. Slacking big time. I hope it helps with my gas mileage. I checked my MPG with 2/3 tank filled and it was around 14.8 MPG. So full tank, im looking at around 15-16 .

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southernsteel
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This is more technical, but when doing the 300zx brake swap, if doing the rears, is swapping the e-brake required as well? Or can I just mount the rotors and calipers in the rear and be done with it?

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240
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wat do u mean by sidewall support and flex???????????/

vegassil80
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if i run a 3 inch exhaust on a n/a ka24De am i going to loose or gain power?some ppl say gain and others say loose can someone give me a straight answer please

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DRIFTKNIGHT_240 wrote:wat do u mean by sidewall support and flex???????????/
Sidewalls of the tire do both functions. Properly sized tires offer support but offer room for the tire to flex when needed. An improperly sized tire may have a supported but be bulged too much to allow flexing and this could cause belt damage to the tire.

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OutToWinPAHC
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vegassil80 wrote:if i run a 3 inch exhaust on a n/a ka24De am i going to loose or gain power?some ppl say gain and others say loose can someone give me a straight answer please
On a NA motor its not needed, granted bigger exhaust does flow better, but it also affects the flow velocity. If our keeping it NA keep it 2.5 or less.

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southernsteel
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southernsteel wrote:This is more technical, but when doing the 300zx brake swap, if doing the rears, is swapping the e-brake required as well? Or can I just mount the rotors and calipers in the rear and be done with it?
yay? nay?

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OutToWinPAHC
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You can do it wothout the e brakes, but why would you?

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southernsteel
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To be honest, I'm afraid of taking apart the rear end.

I can do the front no problem and I can swap the rear rotors and calipers easy as pie. It's getting into the knuckles and such.

That, and money, really. I can't afford the e-brake cables right now and I'm still four lug, so using the 300zx hubs is out for me. It will get done, but for now, I'm looking into the short term to at least get this thing on the road. Having the smaller e-brake cables won't affect the safety of the car, will it? If so, I'll just stick to the stock rears until I can re-do the rear end.
Modified by southernsteel at 8:17 PM 10/6/2009

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OutToWinPAHC
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You don't need to be 5 lug, you need the 300zx backing plates (Q45 ones work too), and you need 300zx ebrake cables. If you cant afford the ebrakes, then just keep what you have. But 5 lug is not required (if you drill the rotors)

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PapaSmurf2k3
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vegassil80 wrote:if i run a 3 inch exhaust on a n/a ka24De am i going to loose or gain power?some ppl say gain and others say loose can someone give me a straight answer please
Typically, NA motors will lose some power when the exhaust gets too big, but MULTIPLE examples have shown that the KA still has very good gains at 3 inch diameter exhaust...

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justinedible4
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Ok guys I'm in he process of repainting my hatch and while sanding I found 2 holes about 1.5"x2" big that one of the previous owners had cut out then fiberglassed over then bondo to fix it but those holes cracked so thats why I am painting it. Btw over half of the hatch is fiberglassed, don't know why. My questions are I have an extra hatch that the holes have been welded up but the glass shattered, so would it be better to paint the glass-less hatch and pay for a new back glass or fiberglass and bondo the holes again and just keep the original hatch? Thanks for any help or input.

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PyR0NiAk
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justinedible4 wrote: Ok guys I'm in he process of repainting my hatch and while sanding I found 2 holes about 1.5"x2" big that one of the previous owners had cut out then fiberglassed over then bondo to fix it but those holes cracked so thats why I am painting it. Btw over half of the hatch is fiberglassed, don't know why. My questions are I have an extra hatch that the holes have been welded up but the glass shattered, so would it be better to paint the glass-less hatch and pay for a new back glass or fiberglass and bondo the holes again and just keep the original hatch? Thanks for any help or input.
Step 1) Paint hatch with broken glass

Step 2) Have good glass cut from bondoed hatch.

Step 3) Have good glass placed in the hatch you painted

A shop in my home town will move glass from one thing to another for less than $100

cobmw
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I've got a stupid question so be kind. I sponsor a youth car club in CO. We build BMW's for autocross and road racing. Some of the guys want to do a 240sx project over the winter. The idea is to find a decent car, take it apart and rebuild it with new, high-performance parts. We want to give it a lot more performance than stock including perhaps an engine upgrade.

The guys like the coupe body style from about 1993-94. My question concerns the headlights. Most cars have flip up headlights. We don't like that style. What model should we look for to get the fixed headlights located below the hood? Is that only possible with a Silva conversion? I've spent a couple of hours on the net trying to get the answer to this. I'll bet you fellows will know the answer in a heartbeat. Thanks much.

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Dire91
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cobmw wrote:I've got a stupid question so be kind. I sponsor a youth car club in CO. We build BMW's for autocross and road racing. Some of the guys want to do a 240sx project over the winter. The idea is to find a decent car, take it apart and rebuild it with new, high-performance parts. We want to give it a lot more performance than stock including perhaps an engine upgrade.

The guys like the coupe body style from about 1993-94. My question concerns the headlights. Most cars have flip up headlights. We don't like that style. What model should we look for to get the fixed headlights located below the hood? Is that only possible with a Silva conversion? I've spent a couple of hours on the net trying to get the answer to this. I'll bet you fellows will know the answer in a heartbeat. Thanks much.
For the 89'-94' years of the 240sx they are pop ups and the only way for you to have fixed head lights are is the silvia conversion.The 95'-98' (S14) years of the 240sx come stock with fixed head lights. The zenki is 95'-96' and the kouki is 97'-98'.Zenki: Kouki:

cobmw
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Thanks a million. Will start searching for an 89-94 and will get the Silvia kit.

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STEEZxIT
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sooooo i hear a lot of conflicting things about engine swaps.. but my question is whats the difference between the notchback sr's and the others?
Modified by STEEZxIT at 2:06 AM 10/9/2009

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Dire91
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I've been reading up on going KA-T for a while now and have plans to do this in the summer. I plan on buying the Greddy turbo kit because I rather have a kit I know will work and is already tuned then piecing together my own and tuning it myself. I think this would be a good experience for going turbo since it's my first, I'm looking for any advice on going with this kit, or help with turboing my KA.

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PyR0NiAk
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STEEZxIT wrote:sooooo i hear a lot of conflicting things about engine swaps.. but my question is whats the difference between the notchback sr's and the others?

Modified by STEEZxIT at 2:06 AM 10/9/2009
This should answer pretty much every question you have...

zerothread?id=59346

And if you want to know more about SRs, check this out...

zerothread/306956

I also recommend you visit the SR20DET-Rear Drive section of this forum and just read some random posts...

zeroforum?id=138

Hope this helps..

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PyR0NiAk
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Dire91 wrote:I've been reading up on going KA-T for a while now and have plans to do this in the summer. I plan on buying the Greddy turbo kit because I rather have a kit I know will work and is already tuned then piecing together my own and tuning it myself. I think this would be a good experience for going turbo since it's my first, I'm looking for any advice on going with this kit, or help with turboing my KA.
The kit has nothing to do with tuning... This is done through your computer.. I recommend a rom tune. As far as bolting everything on, if you've never dealt with a turbo, yeah it could make everything easier.. Greddy is also a pretty respected brand. (My build has a few of their parts) What comes with the kit though? Is it manifold, elbow, hot pipe, cold pipe, intercooler? Or what? A link would be very helpful. I also recommend you spend some time in the KA-T section of the forum, so you can gain some general knowledge.


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