I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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GaMBiTx
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I have a similar problem with the Ka24E as you stated above. I took out each injector wire one by one, and cleaned the contacts and tightened it slightly using a small screwdrive I pushed the contacts so it would be tighter.

I still have the hesitation though, I can hear my fuel pump whirr up and down sometimes, what can cause this ?

I dont see my timing alignment pin, i see the marks on the pulley! could it be gone?


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Warped161
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GaMBiTx wrote:I have a similar problem with the Ka24E as you stated above. I took out each injector wire one by one, and cleaned the contacts and tightened it slightly using a small screwdrive I pushed the contacts so it would be tighter.

I still have the hesitation though, I can hear my fuel pump whirr up and down sometimes, what can cause this ?

I dont see my timing alignment pin, i see the marks on the pulley! could it be gone?
your fuel pump should stay on as a constant without change. and yes the pin could have broken off.

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jakums
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no check engine light it just runs bad some one told me to go to the distrubuter and no one can understand my temp gauge

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OutToWinPAHC
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The temp gauge wiring can be found in the FSM. Its in the "ultimate sticky" I would trace out that circuit. Sounds like a combo of issues. Give her the full once over followed by a good tun up.

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, injector o rings, clean the IAC and TB, check for vacuum leaks and inspected hoses. and try replacing the fuel filter, and checking the fuel pressure.

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jakums
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alright i try that thanks

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GaMBiTx
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I read somewhere on the forums about the harness and the sensors sharing a ground , near the front of the engine (near throttle body chamber), they have a write up with splicing wires and rewiring it to ground, supposedly helped a lot. I have to recheck my timing as well. Does anyone know how to adjust the throttle body plate? I know its not supposed to be adjusted, but it was moved. Its suppose to clear the throttle body so that the gas pedal does not "stick". Just wanted to know if anyone know the proper method to set it right. Thanks

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JoseBronx
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is a 93' coupe with over 200k original miles worth buying? anything I should look out for in particular? whats it worth?

Thanks for the help

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OutToWinPAHC
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if it runs and drives for under 1200 it is. Is it swapped / modded?

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JDM Sil4ty
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240tunerguy wrote:1. is it clutch related? does it matter if its in gear? clutch depressed or up? a throw out bearing will make a similar noise. 2. if not pull off your valve cover and take off the timing chain guides. reinstall valve cover and recheck. they arent needed anyways.
1. umm, yeah i think it is the throw out bearing .. cos when im in gear it doesnt make that noise .. only when i hold in the clutch .. THANKS Alot Problem SOLVED..

2. im not a mechanic nor do i want to mess with the engine .. so your saying that taking off the valve cover and taking out the chain guides will not damage my motor?.. and reinstalling everything back on minus the chain guides .. etc..

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TheGuru
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What is a good price for a 5 Speed Swap for a KA24DE?

I'm looking at one that comes with transmission, clutch, flywheel, pedal line, clutch master, and driveshaft for 375$ and it has 125,xxx miles on it.

Also what else will I need to do the complete swap from Auto to Standard?

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OutToWinPAHC
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price is ok. You need a slave, pedal, and a brake pedal too. Better off getting a new slave. I think you need a shim spacer too.

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TheGuru
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Cool thanks man

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240tunerguy
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JDM Sil4ty wrote:
1. umm, yeah i think it is the throw out bearing .. cos when im in gear it doesnt make that noise .. only when i hold in the clutch .. THANKS Alot Problem SOLVED..

2. im not a mechanic nor do i want to mess with the engine .. so your saying that taking off the valve cover and taking out the chain guides will not damage my motor?.. and reinstalling everything back on minus the chain guides .. etc..
1/ when you push your clutch in and out at idle the noise should change. if it does it could be your throw out bearing.

2/before you go taking off the chain guides search nico for the write up.

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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tryna buy some led bulbs for my cluster for the third time, first time too dim, single led. Second, 9 leds now it cant fit in the socket. So back to single led but with a white bulb instead of dim uv, but they have 2 different kinds 90 and 120 degree... Does one shine brighter than the other?

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JoseBronx
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:if it runs and drives for under 1200 it is. Is it swapped / modded?
no mods except radio, it was owned by someone who isnt into modding car (seem like it)

he lower the price to $1100

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Dire91
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Weird question.On enjukuracing.com there is this linkhttp://www.enjukuracing.com/bu....html it's $470.00 and you can choose if its for the S13 or S14then there is this linkhttp://www.enjukuracing.com/bu....html and it says it's only for the S14 but it is $520.00, what is the difference?And how much louder is this than the HKS Hi power Exhaust?

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240tunerguy
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its the same part number. except for the end numbers. (s13 s14) here is their questions line (352) 241-8399
Modified by 240tunerguy at 8:27 PM 9/30/2009

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Dire91
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I shot them an e-mail.Here's my dilemma, I want to buy a new catback exhaust to replace my old s***ty Egay one. I am having difficulty deciding though. It's between the HKS hi power and Buddy Club Spec 2. I hear the Spec 2 is ridiculously loud; leaves your ears ringing while you're in the car and attracts the cops like no other but it looks so clean and nice. The HKS isn't as clean looking (I hate the big 4inch muffler canisters) but it has a deep nice sound that isn't as loud. Suggestions?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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BRM exhaust.

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Dire91
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Funny you said that, after I posted my question that came up on my search. It's done by Greg right?I think it's pretty much what I want in an exhaust. What's better the stainless steel or aluminum?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Personally, I'd go with whatever is cheaper, but stainless is always nice if you plan on keeping it for the long haul.

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OutToWinPAHC
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Yeah, no need for crazy loud exhaust, or a huge can. Good tone and a subtle look are what you want.

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bersh240
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ok1. how do you post without replying to what someone else said. 2. my ca18det s13 that i trailered home yesterday scares me.i dont no how to use this site well enough to find all this so hear it goes.it has ca18det. sr20 turbo. side mount intercooler. headers and full exhaust, apex intake, stock ecu 255 fuel pump. all braided lines. lsd.. prolly some other stuff i havnt came accross yet.so its running rich. i know it needs a fpr. and it backfires when downshifting to 2nd. is that normal? can it hurt anything?also i got on it once to see what it has and when i was at about 5k rpm it started jerkin and weird things that i thought it was wheelspin but thats impossible in 3rd at 5k.. any info would be great. but how to find info would be better so i dont look like an idiot again. thanks

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Dire91
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I read the BRM thread and it helped a lot. My question is I am planning to go KA-T over next summer, Greg says it isn't neccesary to go 3inch and to stay 2.5inch but is there really any difference in performance and sound between the two?

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Jay420sx
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Ok I have a question. About 2 hours ago a mechanic friend of mine took a look at my Ka dohc. Now he said by the looks of the valve cover color he thinks it looks like a 96' engine. And the guy I bought it off of said hes pretty sure it was a 94'. So how can I tell exactly what year engine I have? Would headers fit a 94' and a 96' dohc the same? I dont think they would so this is why Im curious...

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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So my cluster does not work... There is an aftermarket radio there, it looks like it was improperly installed and it was stated the tsu box (whitebox next to fuse block at driver footwell) might have a blown fuse. So i swapped out that box with another, nothing still... and! I noticed at the fusebox by the footwell all the way bottom left fuse *ignition electronics* That fuse is missing and there are no metal strips inside the fusebox as if a fuse was ever there Does that even have anything to do with the cluster though?

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GranTurismoDriver
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I removed the trunk arms to paint them. Before I could get a good look at them to see how the bars function, they popped loose. Now that I have the trunk back on, I can't figure out how to put them back in and have enough "spring or torsion" to keep the trunk in the air when raised. Please help, pictures would be well appreciated but actually any help would be appreciated.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Jay420sx wrote:Ok I have a question. About 2 hours ago a mechanic friend of mine took a look at my Ka dohc. Now he said by the looks of the valve cover color he thinks it looks like a 96' engine. And the guy I bought it off of said hes pretty sure it was a 94'. So how can I tell exactly what year engine I have? Would headers fit a 94' and a 96' dohc the same? I dont think they would so this is why Im curious...
I'm pretty sure you can put a 96 head on a 94, but not vise versa. 96 head has some extra sensors and crap IIRC for OBD II that the 94 doesn't need/use.

Rustybirdcage
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alright, i'm not exactly sure if anyoen on the forum has done this, or even knows anything about this, but i've seen a few videos on youtube of guys running ford 302 V8's in a 240sx, and what i would like to know is, would it just bolt right in, or would i have to do custom motor/transmission mounts, ald a custum oilpan as well, does anyone here know about this?

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OutToWinPAHC
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:So my cluster does not work... There is an aftermarket radio there, it looks like it was improperly installed and it was stated the tsu box (whitebox next to fuse block at driver footwell) might have a blown fuse. So i swapped out that box with another, nothing still... and! I noticed at the fusebox by the footwell all the way bottom left fuse *ignition electronics* That fuse is missing and there are no metal strips inside the fusebox as if a fuse was ever there Does that even have anything to do with the cluster though?
If there are no fingers in the hole then nothing goes there. Its for anoption that you don't have..

A far as the cluster I would drop the steering column and ge tit out of the dash and check for power at the cluster if all the fuses are good.

There are pretty decent schematics in the FSM. you can download that in the "ultimate sticky"


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