I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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OutToWinPAHC
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The KA 5 speed works, just need the SR bell housing. So its worth keeping. They do also make 2 6 speeds. The Nissan one that comes with the S15 SR is a 5 speed with a 6 speed packed into it and said to be weak. Nismo also made a 6 speed, buts its very costly.

Just stick with the 5 speeds


fightinchunk
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thanks for the quick reply. how good is the ka transmission good for? I'm guessing since I wouldn't be spending money on a transmission, i'm better off spending that money towards building a pretty stout 5spd...

jwcardy
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First and foremost, im a total newb when it comes to nissans but i was recently give a 1990 and a 1992 240 as payment for doing an engine swap in a local guys honda. The 1992 is excellent shape both inside and out and runs perfectly with only 117k miles. its only issue is the auto trans is stuck in park. The shifter still moves to every gear but the car will not come out of park. I would like to get the car moved to my house but i dont want to have to load it on a flatbed. Do any of you know if its possible to crawl under the car and manual put it in neutral or possibly any other fix? Thanks for any help guys.-wes

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needfaster240
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fightinchunk wrote:what trany is best suited for the sr20det? is the 5spd on my ka worthless once I swap over to an sr? is there a 6spd?
there is another option, i believe its from the vq35. it is e very stout transmission but you have to buy an adaptation which is kinda pricey. there is a thread in the sr rwd forum.

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Dire91
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I'm looking to rebuild my KA with the AMS performance kit this coming spring, how difficult would this be to do on my own? Should I let a shop mess around with the internals?Also does anyone know of a show that could do this, I live an hour north of NYC so the closer the better.

Kalypso
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STEEZxIT wrote:i'm new to nico club (first post) and ideally i'd like an s14 kouki but in so cal there's not so many s14's so i was just tryin to find out whether it would be better to get zenki and do the jdm front end conversion plus the sr20?? i'm new to the whole scene and i have no real useful knowlege so i just wanted to know whats the best setup for a beginner in the under 6 thousand dollar budget?

i'm not sure if i even posted right ha.
dont worry about the kouki front, there are plenty of beautiful zenkis.

secure and s14 first ( check colorado, arizona, nevada, washington, and the surrounding states ) then worry about the front conversion...

sr's are cool, and all the rage but chevy v8's fit into our cars nicely, they're domestic, reliable, built for power. And they're cheap. so start off by thinking outside the box. and good luck




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OutToWinPAHC
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fightinchunk wrote:thanks for the quick reply. how good is the ka transmission good for? I'm guessing since I wouldn't be spending money on a transmission, i'm better off spending that money towards building a pretty stout 5spd...
No if you cant get N by the shifter then you cant get it because its an electronic shifter.

But you can take out the driveshaft

ShadowsFa11
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Hey I'm new to the forums. I am going to swap a RB25DET into my 240sx. Where is a good place to purchase this engine? There are many websites that sell them but I have heard bad things about them.

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Dire91
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ShadowsFa11 wrote:Hey I'm new to the forums. I am going to swap a RB25DET into my 240sx. Where is a good place to purchase this engine? There are many websites that sell them but I have heard bad things about them.
I suggest doing a lot of research about the engine first, you are obviously new to this if you are asking where to buy the engine. Read as much as you can and get a grasp on everything that needs to be done before you try to buy an engine with hopes of a perfect install.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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A few of our NICO sponsors sell complete engine sets, and are very reliable sources.

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rzerob
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Seriously do your homework on RB's especially if it is going to be a dd. Finding parts for RB's isn't as easy as going to your local parts store. And the parts can be expensive. Check out the RB section of this forum. Good luck.

ShadowsFa11
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Thanks guys. There's a place in GA bout 2 hours from me called Jarco. I have heard great things about them. I think I'm gonna buy the engine from them.

jwcardy
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:
No if you cant get N by the shifter then you cant get it because its an electronic shifter.

But you can take out the driveshaft
i assume this was a response to my post about my auto being stuck in park, and you just quoted the wrong post.

Well today i went to pick up the car and i was able to get the car into neutral and the back tires rolled freely. since you say that it is an electronic shifter does that mean that my issue could possibly be and electrical issue. the car goes into park and neutral just fine but when you put it in either reverse or drive it doesnt do anything.thanks guys-wes

Pdawg
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I know this is a very tough question to answer, but what is the average restoration cost for a rust free car. Without the costs of body work or engine/trans with all new parts maybe a little better than stock. No coilovers. All work being done myself.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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jwcardy wrote:
i assume this was a response to my post about my auto being stuck in park, and you just quoted the wrong post.

Well today i went to pick up the car and i was able to get the car into neutral and the back tires rolled freely. since you say that it is an electronic shifter does that mean that my issue could possibly be and electrical issue. the car goes into park and neutral just fine but when you put it in either reverse or drive it doesnt do anything.thanks guys-wes
I'm not too familiar with the auto trans, but have you tried going past "D"? I know my shift linkage was messed up in my Maxima and I had to do a lot of stuff like that... could also be your transmission electronics (TCM, solenoids, etc).

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STEEZxIT
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ah thanks manyeah i've broadened my search to include nevada and arizona, so far the only tool i've been using is craigslist. i really want to keep it jdm as much as possible but that v8 sounds insane! i never would've thought that. thats pretty cool. i really want to get into the drift scene, theres a track right by my house that hosts open drift nights every thursday night, n time attack on tuesdays, i was wondering if anyone could help me out, whats a good beginner setup for drifting an s14? i'm only workin with about $5500

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Buy an S14 5 speed, preferably in pretty bad condition. Remove the front seats and sell them to me and I'll give you my S13 seats... use the generated funds to purchase a limited slip differential (if your S14 didn't come with one), and tires. Drift the crap out of it. Chances are the car is going to get pretty beat up and your stock clutch wont last very long... just replace stuff as it breaks.

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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Does the strut and spring from a 91-94 s13 not fit and 89-90? because im swapping my suspension... the coilovers from the 89 fit the 93 but the tokico struts from the 93 wont line up with the 89's knuckle with the 2 botls

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JoseBronx
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:if the "downpipe" has a flex pipe section in it, check for degradation there. Flex pipe sections tend to be the first to go.
thanks

another noob question, should I get a ebay header because I cannot find the down pipe at all. The local junk yards here cut them off for some reason

47ronin
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Hey everyone, so yeah i'm new here and i'm looking to get an s14 soon. my question is what are some good HP gains that I can think of getting on 91 octane? I want a daily driver and still be able to go to the track when i can. I would like 400hp is this possible? I'm going to do the SR swap

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PapaSmurf2k3
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JoseBronx wrote:
thanks

another noob question, should I get a ebay header because I cannot find the down pipe at all. The local junk yards here cut them off for some reason
Ebay or from one of our sponsors... sure. You also might try hitting up our classifieds to see if anyone is selling anything aftermarket or stock..
47ronin wrote:Hey everyone, so yeah i'm new here and i'm looking to get an s14 soon. my question is what are some good HP gains that I can think of getting on 91 octane? I want a daily driver and still be able to go to the track when i can. I would like 400hp is this possible? I'm going to do the SR swap
400hp at the crank is very possible for the SR. You'll probably have to build the bottom end, and will definitely have to upgrade the fuel system and turbo. Look at spending over 5-6 grand on the powerplant alone.

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Dire91
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I'm looking to turbo my KA, have been doing a lot of research. I'm leaning towards the Greddy KA Turbo kit, any suggestions, maybe something that was cheaper?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Dire91 wrote:I'm looking to turbo my KA, have been doing a lot of research. I'm leaning towards the Greddy KA Turbo kit, any suggestions, maybe something that was cheaper?
Tough to answer... I haven't really tried all the turbo kits out there, I just built my own. That being said, if I were to do it again, I might go for a kit. As always, check our sponsors to see if they offer any kits. Also look into jgs turbo. http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html

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STEEZxIT
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ahhh i seeewhats the deal with the seats?damn. well with no income cos i'm a full time student i probably won't be able to hit up the track every week... lame but time attack for sure i wanna run at least once a month it's a little less "wear and tear" hahathis car's gonna be my daily driver, and track car so i'm tryin to figure out my budget constraints here.. i'm gonna be usin some grant money for goodies haha.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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S14 seats are better, and I want them. You could use the cash I would give you for parts/tires/gas/whatever.

As for everything else... I don't know what to tell you man, you have to pay to play.

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STEEZxIT
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well i'll def let you know asap on those seats.someone needs to buy my car asap i'm tired of waiting and missing good opportunities

2g00d4u
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Im still stump with this issue.

Im still getting a low idle when I am stepping on the brakes at a red light or reversing. On a cold start the idle is a bit jumpy around 700-800 RPM (Both in P and N position). Once warmed up (1-2 minutes), the idle is fine. It stays around 750-800.

Its just when Im reversing or at a light the idle drops to 500-600. I dont notice any loss of power.

What I recently done:

-Changed oil and oil filter-Changed fuel filter-Changed PCV valve (wasnt able to find any leak on the hose, may have to try again)-Cleaned MAF-Seafoamed crankcase and intake manifold-Put in some fuel injector cleaner (didnt use seafoam, not enough)-Checked plugs and wires-Replaced dis cap-CTS

The last time I checked for codes, I got 32 (EGR) and 13 (CTS). I reset codes the other day and the CEL came on again when im on the freeway and when I get off onto the streets it dissappears .

Anyway, I will check for codes again and hopefully code 13 is cleared up.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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STEEZxIT wrote:well i'll def let you know asap on those seats.someone needs to buy my car asap i'm tired of waiting and missing good opportunities
Shipping would probably kill us, you'd be better off doing something locally, but hey, I'm game

Why are you selling the Prelude? I have one, they make a nice DD. You should just keep it and get a beater track slut 240.

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:Does the strut and spring from a 91-94 s13 not fit and 89-90? because im swapping my suspension... the coilovers from the 89 fit the 93 but the tokico struts from the 93 wont line up with the 89's knuckle with the 2 botls
wth i dont count as a noob everytime i post here my question dosent get answered... nah im joking Neways that question is irrelevant i got the prob fixed. new question.

What could cause this... the analog cluster in my 93 240 dosent work at all, the bulbs dont work and the needles dont move. The previous owner said after 40 mph everything starts working. i Havent looked or noticed this myself yet but im wondering IF this is true wat could be the problem? Im planning to swap my hud into it soon so im just wondering b4 i do work that ill have to undo.

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justinedible4
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Hey everyone I have 2 questions that have been running through my head for a while.

1. Can I use this clear coat http://www.autobarn.net/duausp..._base over enamel paint that requires a spray gun? And if I cant then what would be the best clearcoat to use?

2. My dad took my spare hatch to get the spoiler holes welded and 30 min to an hr after he finished my dad said the glass just shattered. I was wondering what caused this to happen and if I could put the hatch on my car and let the insurance company put another glass in?

Thank you for all your help and information.


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