I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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rb25det250sx wrote:
have you ever stopped and thought about the kind of gas you were using or where you were getting it from...this used to happen to my 06 mustang, and my impala. i was getting gas at the same place, and it would always die...it was because there was water in the gas at the station. put some seafoam, or heat in it. and gas from a diff station.
Wow man, that really sucks. How much dry gas/heat/seafoam did you go through before it was better?


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Dire91
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Reading up on how to do a compression test, this is what I found1. Warm up engine.2. Turn ignition switch off.3. Release fuel pressure (See How to Change Fuel Filter)4. Remove all spark plugs.5. Disconnect distributor center cable.6. Attach a compression tester to No. 1 cylinder.7. Depress accelerator pedal fully to keep throttle valve wide open.8. Crank engine (let it turn over 7 times) and record highest gauge indication.9. Repeat the measurement on each cylinder as shown above.

Can someone explain how to do #3 and #5?Just checking but the spark plugs are the 4 tubes down the valve cover you can pop out right?

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OutToWinPAHC
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The dist cap has 5 wires one input center wire, and 4 outputs the plugs. So just pull the center.

I never worried about fuel pressure, I just disconnect the injector wires.

You just want to make sure the cylinder stays dry, and there is no spark anywhere.

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DriftTwin86
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:ah the ol "its got a quarter tank" deal. If I had a nickel for every time I heard that...

Just put more gas in it and see if it starts. Does it ever die when its got MORE than a quarter tank? If so, look into your coolant temp sensor. Does it smell like fuel when you are cranking it?
Yes it has died with over half a tank before. I left out that I have replaced my coolant temp senor with a brand new one, I don't beleive it smells like gas, most likely just the fumes of it tryin to fire up is what I may smell once a time or two.

I am sorry I left out extra important information from my previous post, I got distracted by an impatient friend. For what ever reaoson when the 240 acts up like this I will not get any spark from the ignition coil, it is a new ignition pack as well I have 3 new ones and I swap them out to always double check that it is not that when this problem occures. I was suggested that my distributor could be crapping out. What do you tihnk?

rb25det250sx - yes I have thought about it, I do not like the gas I put in it but from where I live it's either 10% ethanol, 10% ethanol, or 10% ethanol lol. Unfortunately for me the gas stations I am more fond of for actually havin 100% Gas have tend to switch back and forth. The best I can do till one of them switches back is stick to the Shell stations which even that has 10% in it but is still a better grade of gas then say the 7-11 store down the street, but I will try your suggestion and stick with the Shell station and add some seafoam. Thanks for your help.

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Dire91
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:The dist cap has 5 wires one input center wire, and 4 outputs the plugs. So just pull the center.

I never worried about fuel pressure, I just disconnect the injector wires.

You just want to make sure the cylinder stays dry, and there is no spark anywhere.
The injector wires being the 4 wires going to the passenger side between the manifold and valve cover, correct?

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OutToWinPAHC
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The wires (2 per) going to a clip that connect to the fuel injector.

jeb1517
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This is what mine look like:







My question is, should that spring seat looking thing (2nd pic) be out like that? I mean it's easy to put in but it's like kinked at one spot.

Also, in the 3rd pic, inside the circled area, you can see the rubber gasket or o-ring or whatever it is, is cut in a specific pattern. Both hubs are like that but the original ones I pulled off the car aren't like that.

Lastly, when I place the hub onto the axle/spindle(?), there isn't enough room for the axle nut washer to be placed on. BUT, If I just take the inner and outer hub seats and put them on the axle, the washer has room to fit. So I'm guessing the seats should already be placed inside the hub?

Axle nut washer that i'm talking about:

Seats:

In the last pic, you can see how the washer sits flush. If I place those seats into the hub and put the hub on, it sticks further out and the washer cant sit flush. Shouldn't the seats come pressed in anyway??


Modified by jeb1517 at 12:17 PM 8/9/2009

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PapaSmurf2k3
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you are probably going to want to make that into its own thread. I haven't messed with 5 lug conversions enough to give you a confidant answer.

rb25det250sx
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i bought mine on ebay for 250. and they were already pressed and seated.

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i actually just put a bottle of heat in it and mayb a pint or two of seafoam and it was better in a day or two. dont take very much

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Dire91
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So before you read this or write anything back do know I'm only researching and I don't plan on even playing with the car for another year or two, we all gotta start somewhere. So I've had my 240 for a year now and I'm looking in turboing it and gaining more hp etc... I started my research being open with both the options of sr20 and ka24. But along the way I have had some questions. If I was to take the KA route I would rebuild it with the AMS kit, besides buying the parts and installing them is there anything else I would need to do while rebuilding the engine? P.s. just wondering, anyway have any pros/cons of the Greddy KA turbo kit?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Lots of people forget all the gasket replacements while rebuilding an engine. There are also some things you will see once you get the engine out (maybe radiator replacement, etc).

I haven't looked at the greddy kit in a while, but they use a rather large turbo for their goals. Are you opposed to getting a kit from AMS?

Krew126
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Hi just this morning while I was moving my car I noticed that when I put down my E-brake and let off the foot brake, my car did not roll down the driveway like it should. I had to give it gas in reverse to move it. So I took it for a ride around the block and I get back and you can smell the brakes from the right rear caliper. I was wondering what would cause that to all of a sudden happen. Making the right rear caliper stick like that, and how could I fix it ASAP. Just problem after problem with the car Thank you.

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AZ89two4Tsx
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Ummmmm....replace the caliper? What else can you do? Rebuild it?

And don't get frustrated. These are old cars, s*** happens.

Krew126
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Is that the only thing I can do, because I have searched and searched all over the place and couldn't find anything specific to my problem. If I had the money right now I would just replace it. I know they are relatively cheap but I just paid the insurance and am broke.If this helps at all, last night when I pulled up the E-brake it felt easier than usual, like it was easy for 1/2 the length that I pulled up, and then got hard the other half of the way.Does that make any sense?

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Dire91
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Lots of people forget all the gasket replacements while rebuilding an engine. There are also some things you will see once you get the engine out (maybe radiator replacement, etc).

I haven't looked at the greddy kit in a while, but they use a rather large turbo for their goals. Are you opposed to getting a kit from AMS?
No I'm saying I want too. Just asking if the kit has everything you need, aka I see it has multiple gaskets so it should be good, right?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Krew126 wrote:Is that the only thing I can do, because I have searched and searched all over the place and couldn't find anything specific to my problem. If I had the money right now I would just replace it. I know they are relatively cheap but I just paid the insurance and am broke.If this helps at all, last night when I pulled up the E-brake it felt easier than usual, like it was easy for 1/2 the length that I pulled up, and then got hard the other half of the way.Does that make any sense?
A 240's e-brake isn't connected to the caliper at all. There is an internal drum on the rotor. Pull off your wheel, take off the caliper (leave the lines hooked up to it), and pull the rotor. Poke around and see if you can see anything wrong. Chances are it will be a pain to get the rotor off if the E-brake is stuck on.

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Papa, this is incorrect, the 300zx use the drum under the rotor, the 240sx in stock form uses the caliper as the ebrake.

Check to make sure both sides are connected, and try adjusting the cable tension at the ebrake cable.

Krew126
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:Papa, this is incorrect, the 300zx use the drum under the rotor, the 240sx in stock form uses the caliper as the ebrake.

Check to make sure both sides are connected, and try adjusting the cable tension at the ebrake cable.
Well I tried adjusting the tension of the nut on the handbrake, I tried loosening it, and tightening it. It drove the same way. The weird thing about my problem is that it just happened out of nowhere, and anytime while driving when I am off the gas the car will slow down. I'm about ready to take it somewhere to get it done, but I am just out of money.Any guesses are appreciated.

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Its been a while since I had S brakes on the car.... Maybe the cable stretched out or one of the stay that hold the cable in place broke.

I would jack the rear up pull the wheels, inspect then get under the car and inspect the cables at this point.

Krew126
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Funny thing is I already did that, but I am no pro so I couldn't really make out if there was anything wrong them, but I am very much at the point of just taking it to a shop, although that's the last thing I want to do.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:Papa, this is incorrect, the 300zx use the drum under the rotor, the 240sx in stock form uses the caliper as the ebrake.

Check to make sure both sides are connected, and try adjusting the cable tension at the ebrake cable.
I dunno man, my E-brakes are internal drum in the back... that's why they lock up like a son of a b****... Granted, I haven't looked at them in years, so I could be mistaken.

Krew126
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I don't know, I guess I'm gonna start calling places now to see how much it would be for them to look at it, and then maybe I could replace it (Depending on what it is)

dosman23
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So I have a question, fellow Nico-ers. I have a redtop Sr20, and I am trying to add power Steering back into the car. I have the pump, and I have the bracket. What I don't have however, is the bolts that attach the bracket to the block. does anyone have either a part number for a nissan replacement, or bot specs, i.e. pitch, length, size etc. etc.? thanks a bunch. I have searched all the forums I am on, as well as vendors who sell parts.

Krew126
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I am no Nico vet or anything but since nobody has replied to you, I would say to call your local Nissan dealer and ask for the bolts from a sentra. Get them from the same year SR20, but get them for a Sentra Se-r. At the very most it should probably be around 10 bucks. If that makes any sense at all. But yeah it should probably be the same bolt.Maybe somebody can confirm?

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dahveed
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is a 205 on an 8inch wheel considered stretched?? thats what im running right now. haha, my friend told me it was but i dont think it's stretched at all..

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EnjoiNismo
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http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib...t.pdf

Service manuel for SR.From Phase2Motortrend.It takes a while to load.

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Two Fowty
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Throw out bearing replacement.

I'm pretty sure mine is crap, but I have an aftermarket clutch and flywheel (clutchmasters stage 5). I wanna replace the TOB, do I need a special aftermarket one, or can I just get a stock replacement?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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you should be able to use a stock one no problem.

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zach-Ka
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