yes, you can buy the bodykit bumper, but you'll still need silvia fenders, silvia hood, and a silvia headlight bracket.mr. newbie wrote:if i wanted to use silvia lights on the cheap, could i buy an s13 bodykit bumper (ex.http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan/19 ... 73001.html)
and just buy silvia lights? i don't care if my front is jdm, i just want to use the lights.
you realize you can buy them in parts as opposed to the whole kit, right? Yes you can use 180sx front bumper and silvia rear bumper. The fronts and sides are the same, its the rear bumper that's different and not interchangeable. For coupes, use the silvia rear bumper, and for fastbacks, use 180sx rear bumper. The same goes for the rear valances as well.jh3xp wrote:so yea i noticed they dont have many body kits for the s13 coupe with out the jdm front end....i believe its called the onevia? any ways is it okay to take the take mix of body kits from 180sx and jdm s13 to fit mine? like 180sx front aero and jdm s13 rear aero and side skirts?
the term "sticking" means that its being pressed on the rotor all the time? or u cant press it? ....if it means that its being pressed on the rotors all the time wouldnt that mean that the sticking one would have a shiney brake rotor?Tom’s red s13 240sx wrote:on the rear cailper note i would say their sticking and one of the seals is blown get new calipers or do the 300zx cailper swap
are you pushing the piston in correctly? the fronts you depress in, the rears you don't. You're supposed to get some pliers and screw the rear pisons in counter clockwise.jh3xp wrote:so couple weeks ago i replaced my brake rotors and front brake pads. i didnt replace my rear pads because for sum reason the pistons wouldnt retract and since i couldnt do that the new brake pads wouldnt fit in ( i dunno if u have to bleed it or sumtin) well anyways i noticed that on the rear driver side brake rotor it was building up with rust and stuff im guessing this is becus its sticking or the piston isnt pushing the pads? i dunno can sumone help me? the brake rotor on the rear passenger side is all shiney.
wait, so I don't get your question... you want like money donations or something?Tom’s red s13 240sx wrote:ok guys heres the thing i have a 1990 nissan 240sx se hatch its red it has 114000 on it the motor was rebuilt @ 76000 and sunday i snaped the rod i am in need of a ka24de engine with wiring and ecu but am tight on cash lots of bills can anyone help me out here please
Your best bet would be to find someone local that is swapping for an SR or some other motor, and tell them you will come pick up the motor. GL and next time use some punctuation. It makes it easier on my drunken eyes.Tom’s red s13 240sx wrote:ok guys heres the thing i have a 1990 nissan 240sx se hatch its red it has 114000 on it the motor was rebuilt @ 76000 and sunday i snaped the rod i am in need of a ka24de engine with wiring and ecu but am tight on cash lots of bills can anyone help me out here please
And the rear driver's side isn't?jh3xp wrote: the brake rotor on the rear passenger side is all shiney.
I thought it was clockwise, but whatever. The point is, you can go to Autozone or whatever you want, and rent a "brake caliper turn-in tool". They press the caliper while it turns it in. With the caliper still off the rotor, try pushing the pedal lightly, and see if the piston comes out. if it does, you know its not frozen.adrians_s13 wrote: You're supposed to get some pliers and screw the rear pisons in counter clockwise.
oh, maybe? I kinda forgot, it's been awhile... actually, my rears are due to be changed tooPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
I thought it was clockwise, but whatever.
ROFL... haha I saw that other username with Smurf in it... that was hilariousPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Since 90% of the answers in this thread are from me and you, does that make us "King of the Newbs"?
I shall be called "Sir Papasmurf"
try to take some pics. Pics would helpjh3xp wrote:lol yea i juss figured out why the piston wasnt retracting...so about that rotor part....my rear passenger side is all shiney....but rear driver side....is building up rust....does that mean the caliper is not touching? any suggestions how to fix it? replace caliper right? sumone told me that it mite be my brake lines are clogged and maybe have to bleed them or replace my lines o.o sounds hard sum point me to the right way
Yeah sounds like you have a frozen caliper. You can try bleeding it, but chances are that won't solve your problem. A new caliper shouldn not be that expensive anyway. They are fairly easy to replace, but you will have to bleed your system after you do it.jh3xp wrote:lol yea i juss figured out why the piston wasnt retracting...so about that rotor part....my rear passenger side is all shiney....but rear driver side....is building up rust....does that mean the caliper is not touching? any suggestions how to fix it? replace caliper right? sumone told me that it mite be my brake lines are clogged and maybe have to bleed them or replace my lines o.o sounds hard sum point me to the right way
dont forget people are practically throwing away their stock calipers and switching to z32's.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Yeah sounds like you have a frozen caliper. You can try bleeding it, but chances are that won't solve your problem. A new caliper shouldn not be that expensive anyway. They are fairly easy to replace, but you will have to bleed your system after you do it.
thank youadrians_s13 wrote:snip
Booo. No GNX?AnimalCracker wrote:Hi guys.
Im new to the forums and to Nissan's.
I drove a Buick Regal for about 4 years.
In general auto 240's will have less engine abuse than their manual counterparts resulting in a longer lifespan. Chassis wise my 240 is over 200K and still going strong. There are many 200K+ KA's (they even have a group on here LOL) and many 150,000 SR's so in general expect to be able to get 150-200K without many problems. Unless of course you have a SOHC. That's a different matterAnimalCracker wrote:
First, about how many miles can I expect to get out of a 240sx?
That's entirely dependent on the quality of the swap. I swapped my SR in myself and did all the wiring personally and have yet to have it so much as even hesitate to start.AnimalCracker wrote:
Second, if an engine is swapped out on a car, can I expect future problems?
That is a pretty clean coupe. Although the recent craze might incline some to think otherwise, the blue book value for an excellent condition, sub 100K mile 240sx doesn't exceed 3500 under any circumstances. I'd start with a 2 grand offer and let him talk me up to 2500.AnimalCracker wrote:
Third, how much would you value this: http://houston.craigslist.org/car/369627701.htmlcar?
If you just want a nice reliable semi-sporty automobile, then yes, that first link is a good buy. I'd offer 2k-2500. If you want something quick, you'd be better off buying someone's car that they have already modified, but make sure it is a job well done! You could definately get that red 240 to last, it looks well taken care of. Not to mention you could bank about 3 grand in the process. Take it to a mechanic and get it all checked out, and see what he says. Keep an eye out for rust, especially on the rocker panels.Let us know how you make out.AnimalCracker wrote:What would YOU guys advise? Waiting a bit, or does that car look decent? I mean its hard to say since I dont have an offer. Perhaps I can offer 2k and see what he says.