I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
menoura
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awesome thanks. I used some gorilla glue and some tape to temporarily hold it hehe.


mr. newbie
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if i wanted to use silvia lights on the cheap, could i buy an s13 bodykit bumper (ex.http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan/19 ... 73001.html)

and just buy silvia lights? i don't care if my front is jdm, i just want to use the lights.

jh3xp
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so yea i noticed they dont have many body kits for the s13 coupe with out the jdm front end....i believe its called the onevia? any ways is it okay to take the take mix of body kits from 180sx and jdm s13 to fit mine? like 180sx front aero and jdm s13 rear aero and side skirts?

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adrianfromthecastle
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mr. newbie wrote:if i wanted to use silvia lights on the cheap, could i buy an s13 bodykit bumper (ex.http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan/19 ... 73001.html)

and just buy silvia lights? i don't care if my front is jdm, i just want to use the lights.
yes, you can buy the bodykit bumper, but you'll still need silvia fenders, silvia hood, and a silvia headlight bracket.

I'm not sure how much bootleg silvia front bumpers are, but I think its a cheaper/ better idea just to get an oem silvia bumper or something that's not bootleg.

a big issue with copies are the fitment, they don't always line up right.

plus I dont think they come with holes, so its gonna be a hassle figuring out how the bumper attaches because theres no bumper to begin with, ykno?

another thing, the aftermarket aero kits are usually lower than oem, which means your front bumpers gonna be like 1-2 inches lower than the rest of your car, so if you don't have the matching sideskirts and rears, its gonna look like poo.

my suggestion, whether you chose to take it or not:--- just buy an oem bumper, along with other oem parts needed. If you want aero, you can do that later in life and sell the oem parts you've had, that way you at least have some kinda guideline to where sh1t goes.---
jh3xp wrote:so yea i noticed they dont have many body kits for the s13 coupe with out the jdm front end....i believe its called the onevia? any ways is it okay to take the take mix of body kits from 180sx and jdm s13 to fit mine? like 180sx front aero and jdm s13 rear aero and side skirts?
you realize you can buy them in parts as opposed to the whole kit, right? Yes you can use 180sx front bumper and silvia rear bumper. The fronts and sides are the same, its the rear bumper that's different and not interchangeable. For coupes, use the silvia rear bumper, and for fastbacks, use 180sx rear bumper. The same goes for the rear valances as well.

I also wouldn't suggest mix matching different companies (i.e. vertex front bumper, ings rear bumper), different companies use different heights (and obviously lines), and it'll look like sh1t (trust me, not a pretty sight)

jh3xp
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so couple weeks ago i replaced my brake rotors and front brake pads. i didnt replace my rear pads because for sum reason the pistons wouldnt retract and since i couldnt do that the new brake pads wouldnt fit in ( i dunno if u have to bleed it or sumtin) well anyways i noticed that on the rear driver side brake rotor it was building up with rust and stuff im guessing this is becus its sticking or the piston isnt pushing the pads? i dunno can sumone help me? the brake rotor on the rear passenger side is all shiney.

Tom's red s13 240sx
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ok guys heres the thing i have a 1990 nissan 240sx se hatch its red it has 114000 on it the motor was rebuilt @ 76000 and sunday i snaped the rod i am in need of a ka24de engine with wiring and ecu but am tight on cash lots of bills can anyone help me out here please

Tom's red s13 240sx
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on the rear cailper note i would say their sticking and one of the seals is blown get new calipers or do the 300zx cailper swap

jh3xp
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Tom’s red s13 240sx wrote:on the rear cailper note i would say their sticking and one of the seals is blown get new calipers or do the 300zx cailper swap
the term "sticking" means that its being pressed on the rotor all the time? or u cant press it? ....if it means that its being pressed on the rotors all the time wouldnt that mean that the sticking one would have a shiney brake rotor?

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adrianfromthecastle
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jh3xp wrote:so couple weeks ago i replaced my brake rotors and front brake pads. i didnt replace my rear pads because for sum reason the pistons wouldnt retract and since i couldnt do that the new brake pads wouldnt fit in ( i dunno if u have to bleed it or sumtin) well anyways i noticed that on the rear driver side brake rotor it was building up with rust and stuff im guessing this is becus its sticking or the piston isnt pushing the pads? i dunno can sumone help me? the brake rotor on the rear passenger side is all shiney.
are you pushing the piston in correctly? the fronts you depress in, the rears you don't. You're supposed to get some pliers and screw the rear pisons in counter clockwise.

now if that doesnt work, then you have a problem on your hands. You probably have blown seals.

as far as the rust, wheres the rust at? Rotors natually rust where pads don't touch.

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adrianfromthecastle
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Tom’s red s13 240sx wrote:ok guys heres the thing i have a 1990 nissan 240sx se hatch its red it has 114000 on it the motor was rebuilt @ 76000 and sunday i snaped the rod i am in need of a ka24de engine with wiring and ecu but am tight on cash lots of bills can anyone help me out here please
wait, so I don't get your question... you want like money donations or something?

umm... wrong thread dude...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Tom’s red s13 240sx wrote:ok guys heres the thing i have a 1990 nissan 240sx se hatch its red it has 114000 on it the motor was rebuilt @ 76000 and sunday i snaped the rod i am in need of a ka24de engine with wiring and ecu but am tight on cash lots of bills can anyone help me out here please
Your best bet would be to find someone local that is swapping for an SR or some other motor, and tell them you will come pick up the motor. GL and next time use some punctuation. It makes it easier on my drunken eyes.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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jh3xp wrote: the brake rotor on the rear passenger side is all shiney.
And the rear driver's side isn't?
adrians_s13 wrote: You're supposed to get some pliers and screw the rear pisons in counter clockwise.
I thought it was clockwise, but whatever. The point is, you can go to Autozone or whatever you want, and rent a "brake caliper turn-in tool". They press the caliper while it turns it in. With the caliper still off the rotor, try pushing the pedal lightly, and see if the piston comes out. if it does, you know its not frozen.

Or if you want to avoid that, you could just take it to a garage. Brakes are usually pretty cheap.

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
I thought it was clockwise, but whatever.
oh, maybe? I kinda forgot, it's been awhile... actually, my rears are due to be changed too

but yeah, for jh3xp, you don't have to rent the tool from vatozone, you can do without if you have a pair of needle nose pliers. Just fit the 2 ends of your needle nose pliers in the 2 end groves of the brake pistons, then start turning. It should screw itself in.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Since 90% of the answers in this thread are from me and you, does that make us "King of the Newbs"?

I shall be called "Sir Papasmurf"

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Since 90% of the answers in this thread are from me and you, does that make us "King of the Newbs"?

I shall be called "Sir Papasmurf"
ROFL... haha I saw that other username with Smurf in it... that was hilarious

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PapaSmurf2k3
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friggin Posers...

JK "other Smurf"!

jh3xp
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lol yea i juss figured out why the piston wasnt retracting...so about that rotor part....my rear passenger side is all shiney....but rear driver side....is building up rust....does that mean the caliper is not touching? any suggestions how to fix it? replace caliper right? sumone told me that it mite be my brake lines are clogged and maybe have to bleed them or replace my lines o.o sounds hard sum point me to the right way

extreme135
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Just a side note, the rear calipers screw in counter clockwise.

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adrianfromthecastle
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jh3xp wrote:lol yea i juss figured out why the piston wasnt retracting...so about that rotor part....my rear passenger side is all shiney....but rear driver side....is building up rust....does that mean the caliper is not touching? any suggestions how to fix it? replace caliper right? sumone told me that it mite be my brake lines are clogged and maybe have to bleed them or replace my lines o.o sounds hard sum point me to the right way
try to take some pics. Pics would help

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PapaSmurf2k3
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jh3xp wrote:lol yea i juss figured out why the piston wasnt retracting...so about that rotor part....my rear passenger side is all shiney....but rear driver side....is building up rust....does that mean the caliper is not touching? any suggestions how to fix it? replace caliper right? sumone told me that it mite be my brake lines are clogged and maybe have to bleed them or replace my lines o.o sounds hard sum point me to the right way
Yeah sounds like you have a frozen caliper. You can try bleeding it, but chances are that won't solve your problem. A new caliper shouldn not be that expensive anyway. They are fairly easy to replace, but you will have to bleed your system after you do it.

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adrianfromthecastle
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Yeah sounds like you have a frozen caliper. You can try bleeding it, but chances are that won't solve your problem. A new caliper shouldn not be that expensive anyway. They are fairly easy to replace, but you will have to bleed your system after you do it.
dont forget people are practically throwing away their stock calipers and switching to z32's.

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bomb_xero
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im looking into getting a 1990 240sx but the problem is its an auto and i will switch it out if the price dont suck.

would i be better off to go to a place like http://www.torontojdm.com/lite/index.php and buy a motor and trans from them

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Fenris
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well....

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=183606

its that hard to change a transmission, and if you posted this question in NE regional forum you might even find some helpers.

And heres parts

zerothread/222682

zerothread/252939

ect

AnimalCracker
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Hi guys.

Im new to the forums and to Nissan's.

I drove a Buick Regal for about 4 years. It was a 1996 Buick Regal LS. Kinda sorta sporty (had a decent engine with decent acceleration) but nothing grand, obviously.

Anyways, I was parked outside my g/f's house and some drunk a'hole wrecked it. I got a check for $6100 for the car.

I was told that 240sx' are a great option for a used vehicle thats sporty and one that can get a few miles out of it.

Im looking at a few cars on craigslist, but I have a few questions.

First, about how many miles can I expect to get out of a 240sx?

Second, if an engine is swapped out on a car, can I expect future problems?

Third, how much would you value this: http://houston.craigslist.org/car/369627701.htmlcar?

Here's the 240sx with the swapped engine: http://houston.craigslist.org/car/347963026.html

Thanks so much!

I wasnt sure if I should make a new thread or come to the newbie thread...

I look forward to possibly owning a 240sx. They look to be the best option for me. I just wish they werent all red! hahaha.

mr. newbie
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adrians_s13 wrote:snip
thank you

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redtop91
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Welcome to NICO!!!
AnimalCracker wrote:Hi guys.

Im new to the forums and to Nissan's.

I drove a Buick Regal for about 4 years.
Booo. No GNX?
AnimalCracker wrote:
First, about how many miles can I expect to get out of a 240sx?
In general auto 240's will have less engine abuse than their manual counterparts resulting in a longer lifespan. Chassis wise my 240 is over 200K and still going strong. There are many 200K+ KA's (they even have a group on here LOL) and many 150,000 SR's so in general expect to be able to get 150-200K without many problems. Unless of course you have a SOHC. That's a different matter
AnimalCracker wrote:
Second, if an engine is swapped out on a car, can I expect future problems?
That's entirely dependent on the quality of the swap. I swapped my SR in myself and did all the wiring personally and have yet to have it so much as even hesitate to start.
AnimalCracker wrote:
Third, how much would you value this: http://houston.craigslist.org/car/369627701.htmlcar?
That is a pretty clean coupe. Although the recent craze might incline some to think otherwise, the blue book value for an excellent condition, sub 100K mile 240sx doesn't exceed 3500 under any circumstances. I'd start with a 2 grand offer and let him talk me up to 2500.


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chicos240
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SOrry about your regal man, that sucks, but you received a nice chunk of change for it.Your first question is hard to answer, I had a 95 and took great care of it and the engine died at 190k. I have never seen one with over 250k on an original engine, but that because most people modify them.The 240sx market has definitely skyrocketed to a point where the market demands too much money for them. That car would be valued around 1000-1700 but now it will probably call for 1700 to 2500. Take a look at the Cars for sale forum so you can get a better idea of the values and what you can afford.But with your 6100 you might consider holding tight and looking for a toy that someone needs to get rid of. It happens all the time on the forum, someone has a baby, they get a better ride(hard to imagine) and they let their 240s go at a good price. Whatever you do, Love the car before you buy, and leave some pocket change around for some cool mods like suspension and such. Welcome to the club.

AnimalCracker
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Thanks guys.

Not sure what to do. I'd like to sit on my money, and I definitely can do that, but not for much past a week or 2 max.

I really like that 140k mile one, but if what you say is true, it scares me that I can be looking at a car that wil lonly last me a bit past 200k miles.

Which isnt too bad. Like I said, the buick lasted me 4 years and I put 30k miles on it. So that car could last me over 4 years, yet once I get out of college and get a job, I should have more cash to throw around and always come back when the time comes.

What would YOU guys advise? Waiting a bit, or does that car look decent? I mean its hard to say since I dont have an offer. Perhaps I can offer 2k and see what he says.

jh3xp
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http://www.lsauto.com/products.asp ( the first one)

how would you put on one of these speedometer dealers... steps please :D reason being ....im stupid

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PapaSmurf2k3
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AnimalCracker wrote:What would YOU guys advise? Waiting a bit, or does that car look decent? I mean its hard to say since I dont have an offer. Perhaps I can offer 2k and see what he says.
If you just want a nice reliable semi-sporty automobile, then yes, that first link is a good buy. I'd offer 2k-2500. If you want something quick, you'd be better off buying someone's car that they have already modified, but make sure it is a job well done! You could definately get that red 240 to last, it looks well taken care of. Not to mention you could bank about 3 grand in the process. Take it to a mechanic and get it all checked out, and see what he says. Keep an eye out for rust, especially on the rocker panels.Let us know how you make out.


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