I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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adrianfromthecastle
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jh3xp wrote: im a noob not correcting u... but juss wondering wouldnt doing this bring up trouble codes or a check engine light? :/ sry im dumb also im new :D hello
no... and the check engine light refers to the o2 sensor. regardless, you're not gonna run with the mafs off, its just my way of diagnosing it. iirc, with the mafs off, I doubt you'd be able to rev past 3k anyways.
jh3xp wrote: oh and ....i kno this is probably the most stupid question in history :D but..... my car ses premiumumumum gas recomemmndedd but i use regular is this bad....also if i swap to sr20 is it ookay to keep using regular even if its turboedd. i kno im stupid :/
I guess its just a matter of preference, kinda like eating healthy food as opposed to eating junk food. You won't feel the difference now (well actually you will, performance wise), but you will sooner or later, health wise... try putting 87 as opposed to 91 or 93 (depending on where you live), you'll feel the difference.

as far as when you drop an sr20 in it... not only do you have a 14+ year old engine, now it's turboed. If you don't plan on putting 91 and doing a lot of regular maintanance, theres no reason to swap in the first place. don't cheap out on sh1t. would you feed your child cat food cuz it's cheaper? no offense, but if you want a great mileaged car that you can drop in 87 octane in... get a hybrid or something.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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If you absolutely need to, and you have a stock SR, you can run regular gas, but stay out of boost. The octane rating refers to a petroleum's resistance to detonation. Detonation is bad (not just a clever name). Higher compression ratios and Boost (among other things) cause detonation when higher octane fuel is not used.

In short: Buy premium you cheap bastard!

onemad240
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Is it a bad idea to buy a kouki that was swapped from an auto to manuel.

All opinions are welcome.


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adrianfromthecastle
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onemad240 wrote:Is it a bad idea to buy a kouki that was swapped from an auto to manuel.

All opinions are welcome.
no, unless the transmission swap was done half assed.

and actually, I favor auto to manual swaps as opposed to buying a car that came manual because auto trannied engines are less abused, generally speaking.

hbpignosePA
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ok heres a question:

i dont want to go with coilovers..... so please dont flame or suggest..... i want a stiffer spring ( autocross, light track duty).... i was thinking ground control (though i cant seem to find springs anymore, did when i was looking at suspension before) or RSR springs....

now for struts, im thinking koni, or AGX, it seems that koni is the better choice, but expensive.....

so my question, can AGX handle stiff springs, correct me if im wrong but RSRs are 5ish?

and if not, the part about konis that worries me is cutting the struts..... idk if i trust myself with cutting them, i read write ups upon write ups and i just dont know how i feel about cutting them up myself


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DriftReadyS13
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ok i have a 1990 s240 hatch. just got it . but i want to put 18x10 in the rear and 18x8 up front. what offset do i need to make this work? car will have about a 1.8 lowering spring on it. thanks

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adrianfromthecastle
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DriftReadyS13 wrote:ok i have a 1990 s240 hatch. just got it . but i want to put 18x10 in the rear and 18x8 up front. what offset do i need to make this work? car will have about a 1.8 lowering spring on it. thanks
18x8 +1018x10 +30wierd staggar imo, but whatever floats your boat
hbpignosePA wrote:ok heres a question:

i dont want to go with coilovers..... so please dont flame or suggest..... i want a stiffer spring ( autocross, light track duty).... i was thinking ground control (though i cant seem to find springs anymore, did when i was looking at suspension before) or RSR springs....

now for struts, im thinking koni, or AGX, it seems that koni is the better choice, but expensive.....

so my question, can AGX handle stiff springs, correct me if im wrong but RSRs are 5ish?

and if not, the part about konis that worries me is cutting the struts..... idk if i trust myself with cutting them, i read write ups upon write ups and i just dont know how i feel about cutting them up myself
iirc, struts can handle stiffer than intedend springs, but cannot handle softer than intended springs. as far as cutting shocks... I've never heard that before

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DriftReadyS13
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w[QUOTE=adrians_s13]18x8 +1018x10 +30wierd staggar imo, but whatever floats your boat

well what would u suggest? im new to 240's18x8.5 front18x9.5 rear???

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adrianfromthecastle
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DriftReadyS13 wrote:18x8.5 front18x9.5 rear???
hmm.. Pics of car? 18's are hard to pull off on an s13, unless you have some sort of aero or something, its just too big imo, I'd stick with 17s at the most, but it's your car, not mines.

if you want to go staggard, I'd say with those sizes provided, +15 front and +25 or somewhere along those lines would be ideal. Of course, rolling your fenders would be neccessary, anything of a smaller offset would call for a fender pull instead of just a roll.

hbpignosePA
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nah i mean the inserts that go into the shocks.... ive read some articles about koni "inserts" because they dont make front replacements

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adrianfromthecastle
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hbpignosePA wrote:nah i mean the inserts that go into the shocks.... ive read some articles about koni "inserts" because they dont make front replacements
sorry dude, I dunno anything about konis. You should email their support.

and sorry, but I gotta ask... why don't you want coilovers?

hbpignosePA
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hahaha i know i know coils ftw...... idk, well ok say i go with coils, since they are pretty much the same price ( round 900 for entry level)..... wat about the suspension geometry? dont u need to get new tie rods, or RUCAs and the like to correct the alignment? i cant afford to have bad tire wear.....

guess my concern with it is that this is my daily.... i dont need something SLAMED, and i dont want to swap out everything at once.... would i have to?

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SLeepingPANDA
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Hey a noob here, any of you from SF california?

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adrianfromthecastle
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hbpignosePA wrote:hahaha i know i know coils ftw...... idk, well ok say i go with coils, since they are pretty much the same price ( round 900 for entry level)..... wat about the suspension geometry? dont u need to get new tie rods, or RUCAs and the like to correct the alignment? i cant afford to have bad tire wear.....
basically, the only thing you really need are tie rods, and maybe RUCAs (optional really) in regards to alignment. Toe angle ruins tires, not camber, my rears are proof, I've been running a lot of camber (not sure) and theres barely any wear.
hbpignosePA wrote:guess my concern with it is that this is my daily.... i dont need something SLAMED, and i dont want to swap out everything at once.... would i have to?
LOL... don't make slammed and coilovers a synonym, you don't have to slam your car. Besides, I'd only recommend slamming your car if your coilovers have a seperate preload adjustment, otherwise if it doesnt and you slam your car, it will ruin ride quality.

And in regards to switching everything at once... LOL... I've been running coils since I can remember, and I have yet to buy anything else... I'm too broke
SLeepingPANDA wrote:Hey a noob here, any of you from SF california?
I'm not, but theres a few owners I know of from NorCalhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=150

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DriftReadyS13
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sorry bro im across the country in delaware

Gold240hatch
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Need help replacing oem clutch. Aside from the clutch itself, what else do I need? Do I need new flywheel? Pressure plate? Thanks!

jh3xp
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So yea my radio doesnt work any ideas how to fix it? the unit wont even turn on and not shure how to fix it? suggestions please and i will try em

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SLeepingPANDA
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thanks a bunch

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Gold240hatch wrote:Need help replacing oem clutch. Aside from the clutch itself, what else do I need? Do I need new flywheel? Pressure plate? Thanks!
When you buy a clutch kit, it should come with a clutch disc, a pressure plate, and an alignment tool. You are also going to want to replace the bilot bushing, the throwout bearing, and replace or resurface your flywheel. FYI I got my flywheel resurfaced at a local machine shop for around $30. This would also be a good time to slap on a short shifter if that floats your cheerios. Also, when you have your clutch and transmission out, inspect your throwout fork pivot bolt. It is inside the bell housing, and is what the fork pivots on. Mine snapped and cause me to blow more than a dozen slave cylinders. Chances are it is fine, but I wish someone would have told me about it the couple times I had my transmission out. Any more questions just ask.

Oh, you also might want to do the rear main seal while you are in there. Its on the back of the motor, and probably doesn't cost more than $10, but will cost much more if it were to break sometime down the road (requires removal of transmission and flywheel).

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PapaSmurf2k3
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jh3xp wrote:So yea my radio doesnt work any ideas how to fix it? the unit wont even turn on and not shure how to fix it? suggestions please and i will try em
Stock or aftermarket?

Start by getting a multi-meter and checking to see if you have power there and stuff like that.

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DriftReadyS13
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check the fuse. thats what i would do first

Gold240hatch
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Thank you Papasmurf.

http://sacramento.craigslist.o....html

I'm on a budget, only reason why I'm considering. What do you (guys) think?

Mines a 93. A 91 also being a DOHC, I think they would be the same? Thanks again for all the help.


jh3xp
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DriftReadyS13 wrote:check the fuse. thats what i would do first
its aftermarket.... funnny thing :D i noticed its not in the hood fuse box ....... so im guessing its in the in dash fuse box :D ....whers that and how do i get to it

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adrianfromthecastle
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jh3xp wrote:its aftermarket.... funnny thing :D i noticed its not in the hood fuse box ....... so im guessing its in the in dash fuse box :D ....whers that and how do i get to it
its left of your right foot where the driver would be seated. Left of the clutch on the kick panel.

menoura
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Hello, I have a noobish question but its killing me. Im currently trying to install some struts. I currently have eibach springs on my stock struts/shocks. I was able to get the back off, but cannot seem to figure out how to take out the nut on top of the piston shaft. Confused :p I need a beer :p

menoura
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ahh I forgot to write that its the fronts. Thanks

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adrianfromthecastle
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menoura wrote:ahh I forgot to write that its the fronts. Thanks
iirc, if you check the threading under the screw, there should like a flat part on the sides that gives you some kinda grip (I think?). Get a monkey wrench or some kinda wrench to hold that down while you try to unscrew the top.

extreme135
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There is a place on the very top where you can put a cresent wrench, to hold it and then use a open wrench to take off the nut.

menoura
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It worked thanks guys. I have another quesiton.. When I was testing out the car right now i heard this air leaking sound from the engine bay. I open it up and see one of the rubber hoses were broken. It came out of the right side of engine and it loops around to the left side of the car to this roundish metal thing. What do i need to buy to replace it? The car idle goes up and down.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Sounds like you blew a vacuum line to me. If you can, remove it and bring it into autozone or another auto parts store, and say you need a vacuum line in that size, and however long you need. It shouldn't cost more than $2.


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