I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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UneaK wrote:yeah iyeah we figured the is something wrong with the battery or altanator.

but still haven't nailed the not running issue. either it needs hydraulic fluid, the clutch is out of line, or it needs a new transmission.
Once again, the not running is in no way tied to the transmission, unless you are leaving it in gear with the brakes on...Saying that is like saying your body can't take a piss because your foot itches...

As for the light clutch... check your fluid in the clutch master cylinder (drivers side of the car, right on the firewall). Also check the master itself (is it leaking anywhere? Don't forget to check inside the car, as it may be leaking from the back). Lastly, check your slave cylinder and see if anything is out of whack.

If the car will start up by jumping it, but will die when its just sitting there idleing, and not have any charge on the battery at all, you probably have a blown alternator. Cars can run with crappy batteries (basically just need a jump every time), but can't with bad alternators (they use up whatever energy was supplied by the jump, and then since there is no alternator supplying new energy, they expell what they had, and die).


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PapaSmurf2k3
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sxdime wrote:I have a 95 240 OBD-I and wanted to know if a replacement has to be from a OBD-I car or can it be from a newer one too? Just wanted to find out before I just try buy one from the classified. Thanks
... a replacement what?

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sxdime
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duhh I guess I forgot to say,,,lol The airbag controller.

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GaMBiTx
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Hi,checking grounding, battery to chassis...do you leave the battery connected to the car or should you disconnect anything? my reading stays at 1....when i touch the black probe to negative battery post and a bolt on the car...(with battery still connected)"To check yours:

Aquire an Ohm meterPlace one probe on the battery’s negative terminal.Place the other probe to any other unpainted screw on the body of the car.Make sure resistance is under 2 ohms

Hope this helps! Worked for me and fixed all my problems." from azhitman

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PapaSmurf2k3
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sxdime wrote:duhh I guess I forgot to say,,,lol The airbag controller.
I'm 99% sure that any from an S14 will work.

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sxdime
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Ok Thank you!

PrototypeZ27
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Car: 240sx 89'

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How would i fix a Digital HUD in a 89' 240?

NkdSrfr
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 8:05 am

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i have a 93 240sx with a LSD on it. whenever anyone pops the clutch to lose traction it engages really rough in the back. it does not sound good and i was wondering if anyone knew what was up with it?

Sjepps
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I'll have about 10k at the end of the summer and wanted to buy a 240sx. I'm an engineering major and don't have the time/space to build one myself so I'd like to find one with an SR20 or RB25 and pretty much set as is. I put on about 20k miles a year between work and school but I'm a little worried about owning a 12 year old car. I've had a Nissan and loved it, was easy to work on and I'm by no means shy about working on my own car but I'm still a little off. What is the reliability of a 240? What should I look for? How long will it last me?

I'm looking for make it my daily driver for the next two years and garage it so I can play around with it after that. I won't be taking it to the track until that time (well... at least very rarely.) I want a RWD, decent mileage, good looking car and the 240 is just something I've always wanted. But is it a good choice?

chris 91
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Car: '93 240sx Convertible SE

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Hey I have a 1993 Convertible 240sx SE and I have a problem with my transmission. I (my dad) have sent it to the mechanic about 5 time, no joke, and they keep swapping all this stuff out trying to figure what is wrong! Seriously spent about $200-$300 swapping parts trying to get the right thing with this mechanic.

My car will not shift out of 1st gears sometimes. I will mash my gas to try to force it shift sometimes hoping it will shift out of 1st and MOST of the time it wont work. So I will have to pull over and turn my car on and off then it will be fine. It does not do it all the time but its happening even more often now.

Has this happen to anybody else and do you know what it is??

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alfsnissan
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX

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NkdSrfr wrote:i have a 93 240sx with a LSD on it. whenever anyone pops the clutch to lose traction it engages really rough in the back. it does not sound good and i was wondering if anyone knew what was up with it?
When you pop the clutch, and the tires begin to spin.... the rear end feels as if it's hopping or....?? Could be worn shocks, bad subframe bushings....
Sjepps wrote:I'll have about 10k at the end of the summer and wanted to buy a 240sx. I'm an engineering major and don't have the time/space to build one myself so I'd like to find one with an SR20 or RB25 and pretty much set as is. I put on about 20k miles a year between work and school but I'm a little worried about owning a 12 year old car. I've had a Nissan and loved it, was easy to work on and I'm by no means shy about working on my own car but I'm still a little off. What is the reliability of a 240? What should I look for? How long will it last me?

I'm looking for make it my daily driver for the next two years and garage it so I can play around with it after that. I won't be taking it to the track until that time (well... at least very rarely.) I want a RWD, decent mileage, good looking car and the 240 is just something I've always wanted. But is it a good choice?
You NEVER know what you'll get when it’s used. Look for rust and documentation of the work. It’s hard to say you'll get 20 or more years. When you have an older car like that, you'll have maintenance that will penny you to death. It just goes with being used.

Pdawg
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Car: Grand Prix GTP - 240sx envy

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Wondering.. do auto transmissions have clutches or just torque converters? I have never heard of replacing a clutch with an auto. A real noob question.

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southernsteel
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So I just bought my first 240. It's a 95 with a CA18DET in it. I'm ridiculously new to turbo engines, so I'm needing some help.

First things first... is it completely necessary to have a BOV? I'm not going to be boosting very much and I've read that at low boost levels, it's not required.

I do have a boost gauge. Are there any other gauges that it's absolutely imperative to buy? Like I said, I'm not going to be boosting a whole lot and it'll be close to stock boost, maybe a little more.

What exactly does a UEGO do? What does it stand for?

And I think that's all I've got for now. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jesusdrovea240
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So i was wondering how much would it cost to replace a blown clutch on a 1990 240?

HVAC25000
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Car: 93 Probe GT. Soon a 240, though.

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chris 91 wrote:My car will not shift out of 1st gears sometimes. I will mash my gas to try to force it shift sometimes hoping it will shift out of 1st and MOST of the time it wont work. So I will have to pull over and turn my car on and off then it will be fine. It does not do it all the time but its happening even more often now.

Has this happen to anybody else and do you know what it is??
I won't be of much help, but strangely, a friend of mine had an old LeBaron that did the same thing, we actually learned that if you shut the car off and turned it back on really quickly by as quickly as you could switching the key to off and then back to on (while still rolling down the road), it would shift, and we didn't have to pull over. This all started after the wrong type of transmission fluid was put into the car by him. We tried completely draining the car and refilling it, a couple times, replacing all the sensors attached to the transmission, etc, took it to 3 shops, and eventually gave up and lived with it until it was, fortunately, stolen. Sometimes it would also fo it from 3rd to 4th.

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alfsnissan
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Pdawg wrote:Wondering.. do auto transmissions have clutches or just torque converters? I have never heard of replacing a clutch with an auto. A real noob question.
Yes, Auto=torque converters, Manual=clutch.
Jesusdrovea240 wrote:So i was wondering how much would it cost to replace a blown clutch on a 1990 240?
If you do the work you'll cut the cost dramatically. Clutches run from anywhere around $120 and up. Depends on what you’re going for.

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GaMBiTx
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anyone can clear things up for me ?
GaMBiTx wrote:Hi,checking grounding, battery to chassis...do you leave the battery connected to the car or should you disconnect anything? my reading stays at 1....when i touch the black probe to negative battery post and a bolt on the car...(with battery still connected)"To check yours:

Aquire an Ohm meterPlace one probe on the battery’s negative terminal.Place the other probe to any other unpainted screw on the body of the car.Make sure resistance is under 2 ohms

Hope this helps! Worked for me and fixed all my problems." from azhitman

2ndnissan
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There are clutch packs on the inside of the automatic trans and there is the torque converter. The torque converter is in front of the trans and attached to the back of the engine by a plate. The clutch packs on the inside can wear out,valve bodies can go bad and torque converters can go bad. Easiest and cheapest to fix is the converter since it slides on and off. You should be able to find a replacement 240 auto cheap ..I got a replacement for free from a guy who had swapped to a standard because he just wanted it out of his garage. You'll probably be best off doing that. Rebuilds are close to $1000. You could do the 5 spd swap cheaper than that. So either swap or get another auto. The replacement will go out at some point too though.

Pdawg
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Thanks i thought the converter alone couldnt stop all power from going to the wheels.

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sil80_chris
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I'm cleaning my valve cover from top to bottom with degreaser but it sill has some grime that just won't come out...can someone suggest a method or product that can help get this valve cover clean again?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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sil80_chris wrote:I'm cleaning my valve cover from top to bottom with degreaser but it sill has some grime that just won't come out...can someone suggest a method or product that can help get this valve cover clean again?
You could sand blast it.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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GaMBiTx wrote:anyone can clear things up for me ?
...What is your question?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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southernsteel wrote:So I just bought my first 240. It's a 95 with a CA18DET in it. I'm ridiculously new to turbo engines, so I'm needing some help.

First things first... is it completely necessary to have a BOV? I'm not going to be boosting very much and I've read that at low boost levels, it's not required.

I do have a boost gauge. Are there any other gauges that it's absolutely imperative to buy? Like I said, I'm not going to be boosting a whole lot and it'll be close to stock boost, maybe a little more.

What exactly does a UEGO do? What does it stand for?

And I think that's all I've got for now. Any help is greatly appreciated.
No, BOVs aren't necessary. They do increase the life of the turbo though. No other gauges are imperative to buy. UEGO is just tuning software... not sure what it stands for, you might want to try googling that.

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PyR0NiAk
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
No, BOVs aren't necessary. They do increase the life of the turbo though. No other gauges are imperative to buy. UEGO is just tuning software... not sure what it stands for, you might want to try googling that.
Here are all of the answers involving uego from coximport.com
http://www.coximport.com/aem/uego-faq.html wrote:
What is a UEGO?UEGO stands for Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor. It is the most accurate, fastest responding type of air/fuel ratio (AFR) sensor available on the market today.

Why do I need an AFR sensor?If you are going to modify your engine in any way, knowing the air/fuel ratio is critical to prevent leaning out and potentially destroying the motor.

I saw an AFR gauge online $80, isn't this the same thing?No! The vast majority of O2 sensors are of a simple "switch" type. They only say that you are rich or lean, but not what your actual is. For tuning purposes, these types are sensors are useless.

I have an aftermarket fuel injection computer. Can I use the AEM UEGO with it?Yes. AEM supplies the calibration for the 0-5v output and you simply hook up the UEGO module to your O2 sensor input wire.

Why is there a sensor and also a module? Is the module a heater controller?UEGO type sensors output a small current that must be conditioned and corrected based on a number of operating parameters. This is what the module does. Without the module, the sensor is useless. The majority of the sensor’s "brains" are on the module. Also included in the module is the heater controller, but it is relatively trivial.

Can I change the sensor’s connector?No. There is a laser etched calibration resistor in the sensor’s connector body. This resistor is specifically created for the exact sensor that it is attached to. Modifying this will invalidate the sensor’s output.

Can I run this sensor with leaded fuel?Yes, but doing so will dramatically shorten the sensor life. It is designed for unleaded fuel.

hoffamania89
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Car: 95 240sx se

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Thanks fo the info on the uego.

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weadmttothetruth
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Does any one know the weight of a j30 vlsd for shipping reasons?

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AZ89two4Tsx
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Very heavy. It's gonna be alot to ship. Like, only worth it if the diff is free alot.

UneaK
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i need to replace my clutch... 91 240sx Hatch

some buddys and me did some of the work. we are stuck on getting the last top two bolts off of the transmission.

any ways to get them of with out removing anything else?

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GaMBiTx
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Hi, Checking continuity between chassis and ground (battery) with an OHM meter.Do i disconnect the battery posts - and + from the car connectors and then what?

Thanks.

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lonely_coupe
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Car: s13 hatch

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not really that new here anymore, nor am I a newb to cars or anything, but I figure I'd try here rather than clutter the forums with another thread.

just trying to find out if these wheels on this pink hatch here:



are indeed the mustang cobra "deep dish" wheels in 17x10.5 +27 that can be found on ebay such as here

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

thanks in advance.... and if anyone knows how/where to order these wheels NON-STAGGERED that would be perfect. i could give a damn less about stagger, and I'm not gonna pay 350 dollars for some wheels I won't use up front.



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