Beancooker wrote:This thread is for the new members so that they are able to ask a "repetitive" question. ANYTHING that is 240 / 180 / Silvia related.
This is only for questions and specific answers that may be related to any 240 / 180 / Silvia.
This is for newbs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
ALL MEMBER RESPONSES SHOULD BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
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THE 240SX Info/Introduction/FAQ Thread (Combined)
240sx How-to ARTICLES
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So you are new. You can read the Stickies (which we are working to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.
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Due to their smaller displacements, the cost associated with boring/stroking isn't a very efficient way to spend your money. Also, the KA is already pretty optimized (bored/stroked as much as it can be). The money would be better spent on forced induction.Pdawg wrote:Why dont people who build KAs SRs or RBs stroke/bore their engines as much as the muscle crowd?
I know that with some cars almost every build has a stroker or at least bored...
Test drive it, check for rot under the rocker panels and on the strut towers... if everything checks out, offer $1500.JonRinehart wrote:This isn't like a complete ripoff is it.http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/1137298731.html. please let me know. I was looking at 93's but this 89 is cheaper and only has 139,000 on it so i was thinking it would be better?
91-98 has the DOHCThe cost assosiated depends on how much power you want to make. 350whp and under, you shouldn't need to buy new rods. Look to spend about 2 grand on pistons and a good rebuild.Sites that carry 240 stuff can be found on the right hand side of the page (NICO Sponsors). Start there. If there is something you STILL can't find, try doing a search (either NICO search or even google).Colin1337 wrote:sooo i was reading into the legality of sr20 swaps in CA. basically im not doing that now, i dont want to get pulled over by a CHP officer, have him pop my hood, then have to see my car in the impound lot.
i did use the search feature and discovered that the ka engine is actually a decent engine to build/boost. which leads to my question.
what year/sub model 240 has DOHC?
how much should i expect to pay to rebuild the engine to handle boost, but still be street-able?
any decent shops in the LA area that do good work on 240s/ka?
and finally, whats a good site that carries a lot of aftermarket support for the 240?
id even have to say less than that because a sr20det vtc says 220hp but when dyno with stock components is levels out to about 170whp. thats 70hp thats lost because of power distribution. from what im told take what ever the dealer or whatever the engine comes with and minus 17%. id say get the sr20det if your looking for power and fun. but if you want to go the safe route go sr20na. depends on what you want in the long run you spend more money putting a turbo or building an na. just go sr you will never look back. also when it comes to actual whp go to a mustang dyno! they call it the heart breaker dyno but its the actual hp your actually getting. for example i pulled 241 where as a dyno jet told me 311. thats why you hear all this craZy power out there. good luckBeancooker wrote:
maybe 120-150 horses. gonna be a nightmare if youre gonna try to piece something together off of just the longblock. - srpowered240sx -
140 at the crank? - Mr1der -
Id say about the same as a ka24de. 100 at the wheel? - adrians_s13 -
136 or 138 iircnot enough, lets put it that way, and youre better off buying a det than trying to turbo the de - nismofly -
here is the answer. according to dyno tests that were performed on the B13 Se-R the SR20De has approximately 120whp. depending on sea level and humidity etc. which isnt bad considering the manufactured claimed HP is 140 to the crank. the engine has not changed much since is discontinuance in 2001. keep in mind in addition to the SR20DET there is also the non-US SR20VE which is one bad little 4 banger and i think at least 1 more version of the SR20. - VMPhil -
...that's 50 hp.kouki4silvia wrote: thats 70hp thats lost because of power distribution.
I find it hard to believe, that you can do a motor swap but can't figure out how to change a MAF. Here's a page you may find interesting though. At least with this you'll understand what a MAF does. CLICK THISMJRC wrote:Sorry guys, but I'm just a normal guy with no background in cars. I know how to do minor repairs, but know nothing about the technical stuff like you guys talk about. But I have a 1991 240sx and when I shift gears the car seems to bog down, but then gets up to speed. I always thought that it had something to do with the throttle body and not getting enough fuel when it needs to. I talked to a buddy and he gave me a mass air flow sensor and said that it could be that and to try it out. For starters, do you guys think that its a fuel to air ration problem? And if a mass air flow sensor would help, how the hell do you put one on? Some background info: I did a motor swap about a year ago with another 240sx but manual. Did it with a buddy and even coverted it to manual and I have been driving it since. Just trying to fix this little problem.
Yes, but there are some things you'll need to change... Try the search option at the top right beside the NICO STORE link.Z32Guy wrote:I may be getting an s14 240 sometime soon. And I was wondering if the SR20 bolts right into the American s14. .thanksJonathan
thank you I've been having a s***ty day but for some reason your post actually made me laugh... either way... suspension is your main thing...JoJo11 wrote:I'm a newb but what does a 240SX with an SR engine swap need for it to become a driftin car
240sxmotoring.com find their contact info on their site and then email one.... they can recommend a setup for you along with give you a price quote..JoJo11 wrote:hey thats what i'm here for askin embarassing ridiculous questions. what would u say is a good suspension to get? cuz i need a car through college but i still want to beat ppl in races every now and then.
Well, first, sorry for you problem. Second, the clutch/transmission will not cause the car to not run. That almost sounds like the alternator or battery. When it was running, did you put a multimeter on the battery to see if the alternator was charging? The burnt smell may or may not be the transmission fluid. I want to say that the clutch is toast but someone with more experience can help you there. Hope I helped a little.UneaK wrote:So i recently bought an S13
Its a 1991 240sx
So my dad hasn't drove a stick for like 13 years and he was not to good at it so we drove in like 3rd and 4th all the way to my house, which is like 30 minutes and so once we were almost home the car just died, but the engine was running and it just wouldn't go into gear and when we got out of the car there was this burnt smell of something. Then we had to get it pulled home and so when we got home the engine wouldn't start anymore and all the lights were on like the side markers and the head lights, but were on like really low power. So this morning i tried to put the keys in the ignition and it wouldn't even turn. Any help at all would be awesome and great because i really don't want to go waste it at the junkyard!
edit:alright, so me and my friend today did some work.
we got it started, but the clutch has a lot of play and is not very hard to press down. Also you can shift into gears with out having the clutch down. But to be able to start it the car needs to be jumped started. When we left it running it wanted to die.
we either think its the clutch, transmission, or drive train.
any ideas?
yeah we figured the is something wrong with the battery or altanator.alfsnissan wrote:
Well, first, sorry for you problem. Second, the clutch/transmission will not cause the car to not run. That almost sounds like the alternator or battery. When it was running, did you put a multimeter on the battery to see if the alternator was charging? The burnt smell may or may not be the transmission fluid. I want to say that the clutch is toast but someone with more experience can help you there. Hope I helped a little.