I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
JonRinehart
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alright yeah. Theres a track like 10 minutes away were its 20$ to drift on fridays. Thats what I was planning on doing.


JonRinehart
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GranTurismoDriver
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Car: Nissan S14
Location: Virginia
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What would be the best way to remove my KA24DE, the head of the motor is missing so I can not hook up to the manifold like a lot of people would do when removing the motor. Please any advice would be greatly appreciated. I was hoping to try to make this a weekend project and I'm in a definite need for an answer.

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Colin1337
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:58 pm
Car: 1990 Sil80

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im new to these threads, and new to the whole 240 thing in general. I used to own an SRT-4, but im sick of having a car payment, so i got rid of it.

I might be purchasing a 240 shell, has everything except engine/transmission/ecu obviously. full interior minus radio. dude only wants $500 for it.

so im thinking ill buy that, sell the car im using now for 1700, and then buy an SR front clip and do the swap with a few buddies.

it seems kinda self explanatory, but i just want to see if everyone else thinks this is a good starting off point?

also, i really like the S13 gauge cluster with the digital speedo reading, if i got that would i need to do any extra wiring? or is it basically plug and play?

00ryancody
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:02 am
Car: 1991 nissan 240sx (stock)

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Hi im new here and i just bought my first 240sx. its a 91 5spd ka24de non convertible just a hatch. i bought it from a guy for 1350 due to haveing one broken wheel stud and another stripped. i replaced the broken one but i cant find which other one is stripped. the broken one was on front pass. side and stripped one was on front drivers side. i did that and brakes but i just clamped in the brake cylinder without draining. was this a bad idea. i had the master cyl. cap off and i pumped it a few times for really no reason cuz it didnt help what i was tryin to do. i cant loosen the drain plug without stripping it so what should i do? and now im getting very little brake pressure unless pumped up but still releases most of it after i let go? what is wrong with it. also it will not idle properly looks to me like it has new plugs but i cant figure it out.it idles real low and wants to die so what should i do. thanks in advance for your help.
Beancooker wrote:This thread is for the new members so that they are able to ask a "repetitive" question. ANYTHING that is 240 / 180 / Silvia related.

This is only for questions and specific answers that may be related to any 240 / 180 / Silvia.

This is for newbs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.

ALL MEMBER RESPONSES SHOULD BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.

____________________________________________

THE 240SX Info/Introduction/FAQ Thread (Combined)

240sx How-to ARTICLES



THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCH!!!How do I search? You click that button.

So you are new. You can read the Stickies (which we are working to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.

Please refrain from post whoring in this thread. If you want to post whore, go to Gen Chat and get in the v<^ forum game.

If you are a long standing member, and do not wish to answer questions that have probably been asked before, PRESS THE BACK BUTTON ON YOUR WEB BROWSER NOW.

00ryancody
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:02 am
Car: 1991 nissan 240sx (stock)

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are you sure its not a strut???

GetAwayFromMe
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 5:52 pm
Car: '03 1.8T Jetta FOR SALE...hopefully an SR20DET 240SX soon

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Ok so i've decided to get a 240SX shell and swap in an SR20DET....thanks for your help

**EDIT**

if anybody has a decent 240SX or silvia with an SR20DET for under 6k, please email me as i am greatly interested

Pdawg
Posts: 48
Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2009 1:15 pm
Car: Grand Prix GTP - 240sx envy

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Why dont people who build KAs SRs or RBs stroke/bore their engines as much as the muscle crowd?

I know that with some cars almost every build has a stroker or at least bored...


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Posts: 19005
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
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Pdawg wrote:Why dont people who build KAs SRs or RBs stroke/bore their engines as much as the muscle crowd?

I know that with some cars almost every build has a stroker or at least bored...
Due to their smaller displacements, the cost associated with boring/stroking isn't a very efficient way to spend your money. Also, the KA is already pretty optimized (bored/stroked as much as it can be). The money would be better spent on forced induction.

JonRinehart
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This isn't like a complete ripoff is it.http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/1137298731.html. please let me know. I was looking at 93's but this 89 is cheaper and only has 139,000 on it so i was thinking it would be better?

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Colin1337
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:58 pm
Car: 1990 Sil80

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sooo i was reading into the legality of sr20 swaps in CA. basically im not doing that now, i dont want to get pulled over by a CHP officer, have him pop my hood, then have to see my car in the impound lot.

i did use the search feature and discovered that the ka engine is actually a decent engine to build/boost. which leads to my question.

what year/sub model 240 has DOHC?

how much should i expect to pay to rebuild the engine to handle boost, but still be street-able?

any decent shops in the LA area that do good work on 240s/ka?

and finally, whats a good site that carries a lot of aftermarket support for the 240?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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JonRinehart wrote:This isn't like a complete ripoff is it.http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/1137298731.html. please let me know. I was looking at 93's but this 89 is cheaper and only has 139,000 on it so i was thinking it would be better?
Test drive it, check for rot under the rocker panels and on the strut towers... if everything checks out, offer $1500.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Colin1337 wrote:sooo i was reading into the legality of sr20 swaps in CA. basically im not doing that now, i dont want to get pulled over by a CHP officer, have him pop my hood, then have to see my car in the impound lot.

i did use the search feature and discovered that the ka engine is actually a decent engine to build/boost. which leads to my question.

what year/sub model 240 has DOHC?

how much should i expect to pay to rebuild the engine to handle boost, but still be street-able?

any decent shops in the LA area that do good work on 240s/ka?

and finally, whats a good site that carries a lot of aftermarket support for the 240?
91-98 has the DOHCThe cost assosiated depends on how much power you want to make. 350whp and under, you shouldn't need to buy new rods. Look to spend about 2 grand on pistons and a good rebuild.Sites that carry 240 stuff can be found on the right hand side of the page (NICO Sponsors). Start there. If there is something you STILL can't find, try doing a search (either NICO search or even google).

kouki4silvia
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Jun 24, 2007 5:25 pm

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Beancooker wrote:
maybe 120-150 horses. gonna be a nightmare if youre gonna try to piece something together off of just the longblock. - srpowered240sx -

140 at the crank? - Mr1der -

Id say about the same as a ka24de. 100 at the wheel? - adrians_s13 -

136 or 138 iircnot enough, lets put it that way, and youre better off buying a det than trying to turbo the de - nismofly -

here is the answer. according to dyno tests that were performed on the B13 Se-R the SR20De has approximately 120whp. depending on sea level and humidity etc. which isnt bad considering the manufactured claimed HP is 140 to the crank. the engine has not changed much since is discontinuance in 2001. keep in mind in addition to the SR20DET there is also the non-US SR20VE which is one bad little 4 banger and i think at least 1 more version of the SR20. - VMPhil -
id even have to say less than that because a sr20det vtc says 220hp but when dyno with stock components is levels out to about 170whp. thats 70hp thats lost because of power distribution. from what im told take what ever the dealer or whatever the engine comes with and minus 17%. id say get the sr20det if your looking for power and fun. but if you want to go the safe route go sr20na. depends on what you want in the long run you spend more money putting a turbo or building an na. just go sr you will never look back. also when it comes to actual whp go to a mustang dyno! they call it the heart breaker dyno but its the actual hp your actually getting. for example i pulled 241 where as a dyno jet told me 311. thats why you hear all this craZy power out there. good luck

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PapaSmurf2k3
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kouki4silvia wrote: thats 70hp thats lost because of power distribution.
...that's 50 hp.

Z32Guy
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun May 03, 2009 3:49 am
Car: Had a Z32TT, now a chevy s10 lol..and hopefully soon an s14..

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I may be getting an s14 240 sometime soon. And I was wondering if the SR20 bolts right into the American s14. .thanksJonathan

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PyR0NiAk
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Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
Location: Ohio
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MJRC wrote:Sorry guys, but I'm just a normal guy with no background in cars. I know how to do minor repairs, but know nothing about the technical stuff like you guys talk about. But I have a 1991 240sx and when I shift gears the car seems to bog down, but then gets up to speed. I always thought that it had something to do with the throttle body and not getting enough fuel when it needs to. I talked to a buddy and he gave me a mass air flow sensor and said that it could be that and to try it out. For starters, do you guys think that its a fuel to air ration problem? And if a mass air flow sensor would help, how the hell do you put one on? Some background info: I did a motor swap about a year ago with another 240sx but manual. Did it with a buddy and even coverted it to manual and I have been driving it since. Just trying to fix this little problem.
I find it hard to believe, that you can do a motor swap but can't figure out how to change a MAF. Here's a page you may find interesting though. At least with this you'll understand what a MAF does. CLICK THIS

AFTER THAT, YOU SHOULD TRY THIS


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PyR0NiAk
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Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
Location: Ohio
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Z32Guy wrote:I may be getting an s14 240 sometime soon. And I was wondering if the SR20 bolts right into the American s14. .thanksJonathan
Yes, but there are some things you'll need to change... Try the search option at the top right beside the NICO STORE link.

If you don't want to scroll up or just can't see it. Here's the link...

zerosearch

JoJo11
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Joined: Sun May 03, 2009 9:52 am

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I'm a newb but what does a 240SX with an SR engine swap need for it to become a driftin car

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PyR0NiAk
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Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
Location: Ohio
Contact:

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JoJo11 wrote:I'm a newb but what does a 240SX with an SR engine swap need for it to become a driftin car
thank you I've been having a s***ty day but for some reason your post actually made me laugh... either way... suspension is your main thing...

JoJo11
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hey thats what i'm here for askin embarassing ridiculous questions. what would u say is a good suspension to get? cuz i need a car through college but i still want to beat ppl in races every now and then.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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gotta go for coilovers. I'd definitely get them if I had to do it over again.

Bob_Sagat
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Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:55 pm
Car: 1993 S13 Hatch

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I just installed a new head unit in my s13, and now the interior lights (footwell, dome, maps) only come on when the ignition is in the ACC position. I'm not that great with wiring, does anyone have any advice for this?

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alfsnissan
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX

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Pull the unit and check all your wires, making sure they are all connected to the right things and nothing is crossed. If the problem started after you put th unit in, then its something with those wires. Peace.

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PyR0NiAk
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Car: S13 SR W/ T2 GT3071R .86AR, JWT S4 Cams, 810cc Injectors,Z32 MAF, JWT tuned ECU 87mm 9:1 Compression CP pistons, Manley Rods
Location: Ohio
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JoJo11 wrote:hey thats what i'm here for askin embarassing ridiculous questions. what would u say is a good suspension to get? cuz i need a car through college but i still want to beat ppl in races every now and then.
240sxmotoring.com find their contact info on their site and then email one.... they can recommend a setup for you along with give you a price quote..

UneaK
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Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:12 am

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So i recently bought an S13

Its a 1991 240sx

So my dad hasn't drove a stick for like 13 years and he was not to good at it so we drove in like 3rd and 4th all the way to my house, which is like 30 minutes and so once we were almost home the car just died, but the engine was running and it just wouldn't go into gear and when we got out of the car there was this burnt smell of something. Then we had to get it pulled home and so when we got home the engine wouldn't start anymore and all the lights were on like the side markers and the head lights, but were on like really low power. So this morning i tried to put the keys in the ignition and it wouldn't even turn. Any help at all would be awesome and great because i really don't want to go waste it at the junkyard!

edit:alright, so me and my friend today did some work.

we got it started, but the clutch has a lot of play and is not very hard to press down. Also you can shift into gears with out having the clutch down. But to be able to start it the car needs to be jumped started. When we left it running it wanted to die.

we either think its the clutch, transmission, or drive train.

any ideas?

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alfsnissan
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX

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UneaK wrote:So i recently bought an S13

Its a 1991 240sx

So my dad hasn't drove a stick for like 13 years and he was not to good at it so we drove in like 3rd and 4th all the way to my house, which is like 30 minutes and so once we were almost home the car just died, but the engine was running and it just wouldn't go into gear and when we got out of the car there was this burnt smell of something. Then we had to get it pulled home and so when we got home the engine wouldn't start anymore and all the lights were on like the side markers and the head lights, but were on like really low power. So this morning i tried to put the keys in the ignition and it wouldn't even turn. Any help at all would be awesome and great because i really don't want to go waste it at the junkyard!

edit:alright, so me and my friend today did some work.

we got it started, but the clutch has a lot of play and is not very hard to press down. Also you can shift into gears with out having the clutch down. But to be able to start it the car needs to be jumped started. When we left it running it wanted to die.

we either think its the clutch, transmission, or drive train.

any ideas?
Well, first, sorry for you problem. Second, the clutch/transmission will not cause the car to not run. That almost sounds like the alternator or battery. When it was running, did you put a multimeter on the battery to see if the alternator was charging? The burnt smell may or may not be the transmission fluid. I want to say that the clutch is toast but someone with more experience can help you there. Hope I helped a little.

HVAC25000
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Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 5:13 pm
Car: 93 Probe GT. Soon a 240, though.

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I've been looking at a number of websites selling body kits for the 240.

On quite a few, I noticed the exact same, or appearing the exact same, front bumpers are listed in both the S14 to S15 front end conversion category and the just plain S15 category. Does that mean that any S15 bumper will also go on the 14?

How can I get wider front and rear tires on the 97-98? Are wider fenders necessary, or is there room on the car to begin with? What's the max width I can get on each end?

If wider fenders are necessary, what's available? All I've been able to find C-speed conversion fenders (again, same question as above, are these just S15 fenders that also fit on the 14, or are they actually conversion fenders?), and they're only 20mm wider, not even an inch.

These look much wider, but don't say they they're for a conversion. I also assume they'll only work with the front bumper they have to go with them though, since they're so wide, or do they slope back in enough at the front to meet with any other bumper?

http://www.extremedimensions.com/10283.html

One last thing, anyone know a reliable shop in southern california, the closer to san diego the better, to do an sr, or even rb, swap?

Thanks guysChris
Modified by HVAC25000 at 8:31 AM 5/6/2009

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sxdime
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Car: 95 240SX 97 Wrangler (wifes) 2000 Freightliner (workhorse)
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I have a 95 240 OBD-I and wanted to know if a replacement has to be from a OBD-I car or can it be from a newer one too? Just wanted to find out before I just try buy one from the classified. Thanks

UneaK
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Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:12 am

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yeah i
alfsnissan wrote:
Well, first, sorry for you problem. Second, the clutch/transmission will not cause the car to not run. That almost sounds like the alternator or battery. When it was running, did you put a multimeter on the battery to see if the alternator was charging? The burnt smell may or may not be the transmission fluid. I want to say that the clutch is toast but someone with more experience can help you there. Hope I helped a little.
yeah we figured the is something wrong with the battery or altanator.

but still haven't nailed the not running issue. either it needs hydraulic fluid, the clutch is out of line, or it needs a new transmission.


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