I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[rollinj30]

turbo the de. with some stage 2 bc cams and a light tune ive seen them safely boost 30psi on stock internals, only seen that once though. Id keep it at no more than 12-15 on a simple t28 setup.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

ok I was plannin on chekcing my speed sensor and notice that the wire running from the senor to the control module has been cut. Been trying to find the wire but am stuck because I'm not gettting any sign that any wire that says goes to the speed senor is hot. So I'm pretty much stuck on this issuse an suggestion??????

So... did you see the cut wire, or did you just somehow come to that conclusion?

Also I notice when I rev the engine to around 6000 6500 rpm in neutral I lose power untill the it drops down to around 3000 then I have to push in the clutch and it revs right. I did then same thing while on the high way testing the can and it does the same thing in pretty much everygear except in 5th it loses the pull around 5000rpm and have to let it drop to 3000rpm and I have the pull again. Any idea what this can be.

How quickly does it drop in revs? 5th gear is normal, that is your 5th gear RPM/speed limiter kicking in.

[mastermindspr04]

I went under the car and checked the transmission the speed senor is around the middle of the passenger side door under the car. I traced the wire to the engine bay and noticed it wasn't connected and saw four wires cut around that area one is a yellow/green wire, the other is a orange and green wire and two all black for my grounds. I believe the yellow/green is my speed senor and the orange green is my to neutral switch cuz my back up light don't work either.

I don't think its that issuse in 5th gear because if my speed senor is cut how does the limiter/ governer know how fast I'm going to cut my speed. I was talking with a mechanic and thats a quick way to get ride of the limter/governer switch. Am I right or wrong.

I quess I wasn't clear enough when I hit that point where it bogg at 6000rpm to 65000 rmp all I have to do I press the clutch down and let the rpm gauge drop to 3000rpm and then I get full power again I barely slow down cuz I'm not breaking.

Unless doing that made my limiter go crazy and killed my speed at every gear ha ha.

See the confusion ha ha drivin me crazy

[mastermindspr04]

Plus this clilton book isn't helping much either.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

That post was a little hard to follow, but I suggest you re-connect all the cut wires. It sounds like someone was trying to disable your speed governor, but failed misribly.

The yellow/green wire is the actual speed sensor wire. Cutting that will get rid of one of your governors, but there are a couple more to overcome. 4th and 5th gear have sensors that detect when the transmission is in that gear. When they are in gear, it won't let the engine rev to a point of which it would overcome the highest possible speed.

[dahveed]

thanks! is changing a starter an easy DIY, and how much would the cost be?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

It is fairly easy DIY. IIRC, there was one bolt that was a monumental pain in the *** that required me to attack from different angles, but that could have been on another car too...

Cost should be under $200. Check NICO classifieds for good deals. I think I got mine for about $60 from a member here, and it was about 2 months old. If you get in a jam, and the car won't start, you can try hitting the starter to jostle the solenoid, and get it to engage and turn over. Usually that requires 1 person to turn the key and 1 person to wail on the solenoid though. You might be able to wack it then turn the key though.

[Steady_One_S13]

Can some one help me please? I'm on my own here. I've searched this forum and the internet, but not much help on the topic a/c. I have a 91 s13 w/ red top sr20det. The A/C switch light does not come on and does not energize the compressor and condenser. I wired the green/yellow (Sr side-harness to the S13 side-harness-(Grey EFI plug). I traced this wire to ECU pin 106 (A/C on output (Air conditioner on relay signal). Is this correct?Also, the blue/green, it's wired correctly @ the EFI grey plug (blue/green to blue/green). I get continuity from the grey plug to the compressor and to the A/C relay (terminal 42) but I don't know where it goes from the other side of the grey plug.The blue/green under the dash is also wired right. It goes from ECU pin 41 to the Thermo Control Amp.Could it be that the Thermo Control Amp is bad. The Condenser and A/C relays are both good.What can it be?Please help.Thanks.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You might have better luck in the SR forum, but I know for my KA, the light didn't come on, and neither did the compressor until I had sufficient pressure in the system. Are you sure you have it filled with refrigerant?

After filling mine, it all leaked out within a half hour, so that was the extent of my dealings with AC. After that, I just ripped it all out and haven't looked back.

[Steady_One_S13]

I don't have refrigerant in the system yet. The compressor is not getting any juice to it (12V).

[PapaSmurf2k3]

There may be a sensor to detect refrigerant pressure, and won't send juice to the compressor until it senses that there is at least some refrigerant in the system.

All I know is that my compressor wasn't getting any power nor was it turning on nor was my AC light coming on when pressed until I filled her up with refrigerant. That's all the help I can give you. I'm not too big into A/C

[qat727]

There may be a sensor to detect refrigerant pressure, and won't send juice to the compressor until it senses that there is at least some refrigerant in the system.

All I know is that my compressor wasn't getting any power nor was it turning on nor was my AC light coming on when pressed until I filled her up with refrigerant. That's all the help I can give you. I'm not too big into A/C

It's called the low pressure cutoff switch. If all you want to do is test the wiring, you can disconnect the plug and jumper it. That should allow the juice to flow to the compressor.

[Steady_One_S13]

I think you're right. I'll try that in the coming weeks.

I can't live without A/C.

Thanks for your help.

[Steady_One_S13]

I'll try the test method.Thanks.

[dahveed]

ok, so i was checking my other car and decided i might as well try and turn on the piggy, but now when i turn the key i dont hear the clicking noise anymore . also, the clock in the dash is still on, does that indicate something?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Try beating the crap out of the starter with something while someone else has the key turned. Use a stick as a "drift" and hit the end of the stick with something. You can pretty much use anything as the drift. A pipe, block of wood, etc. Chances are it is your starter man. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it clicks, sometimes it does nothing... sounds like a starter to me.

[onemad240]

i did a search on this but i am getting contradicting info. i read that 370cc injectors can handle up to 320 hp, 230 hp, and 280 hp. so i am wondering what they really can handle, and how much would be reliable with these injectors. what is the max boost on these? (ka-t in the works gt2876r .64) thanks

[PapaSmurf2k3]

well, it depends on what fuel pressure you run.For example- 370cc injectors at 40psi of fuel pressure will flow 370cc, but at 75psi of fuel pressure, will flow about 500.

so, at 40psi, you will max out around 235-240hp (depending on your tune, and about 95% duty cycle).at 75psi of fuel pressure (which is kinda high to be running all the time, but I guess you could get a rrfpr??), you would flow enough fuel for about 310hp.

soo, I guess the max boost you could run would be around 10 psi. Ultimately though, you have to go with whatever your tuner says.

[Scuffed_ChukiCoupe]

I got a question. I just bought some siliva bricks and the bulb that comes in the highbeam says ush0. Im guessing its an h10 bulb. but every aftermarket h10 bulb i search dosent look the same as it. It has 2 prongs at the bottom and aftermarket h10 bulbs have a right angle and a plastic protective ring... Are they still the same bulbs?

[Scuffed_ChukiCoupe]

smh typo it says ush10.

[The Inflicted]

Here's a stupid question:

People are always going through a lot of trouble to convert their 240SXs to 5-lug, and then even more trouble to buy big offset adapters to get their wheels past their fenders.

Why don't they just use these things?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors....m245

[PapaSmurf2k3]

because man... they are "super rare" it says so right in the title!

Plus when you convert to 5 lug, you get new wheel bearings too!

[Scuffed_ChukiCoupe]

No1 answered my question but I did ask it wrong. The bulb is used as a foglight on the silvia bricks. Its marked ush10 12v55w. I can't find any replacement/aftermarket bulb online. Any h10 bulb I search looks nothing like the 1 that came out of the headlight. Is it a special type of bulb or is there no aftermarket replacement 4 this bulb?

[2ndnissan]

I have a no start problem occasionally with my daughters 240. It has a new starter,battery,and I have cleaned the contacts everywhere. 99% of the time it starts but sometimes it takes four or five tries and all you get is a click. Is the answer in the ignition switch itself maybe? Jiggling a few times does seem to get it started along with a twist or two of the wheel. How hard is this repair?

[2ndnissan]

I did this starter repair about a month ago. Top bolt is a real pain! I got a craftman racquet with a swivel head that locks plus it has a section that extends the handle and locks. Handle telescopes basically. Cost about $20 and made it soooo much easier. Starter was around $120 from Advanced/Discount. You might need to move an a/c line to make it easier to get to the bolt. There is not a lot of space there on the top side..

[rzerob]

Does anyone know the proper procedure of aquiring sponsors. I don't expect a sponsor to give me free stuff but some decent discount would really come in handy, as I am sure everyone with a project car can agree. But even if it is a shot in the dark I would like to atleast try but I don't know the proper procedure. I haven't cut corners on my car, nothing but the best and the best is expensive.

[240pr06]

hellomy question is about taking my front and rear bumpers off? i have searched and saw that most take off the hood and pop ups off in order to take off the bumper, do i need to take them off to get just the bumper off??and how would i go about taking the rear bumper off?ive searched to see if there was a write up or anything but i have not found anything so if i could get any tips that would be great. thanks for any help.

[hazukijitsu]

I have a 1991 240sx, Automatic (go ahead and laugh) with a KA24DE. When I go into reverse without braking, there is a grinding noise coming from the rear driver side wheel. The sound goes away when I brake while reversing, or leave the emergency break halfway in reverse. My friend and I checked the rear brakes pads on the two back tires, and they seem to have plenty of metal on them. Any suggestions?

Also, when I start the car and rev around 3,000 rpm there is a weird rattling noise coming from the front of the car, and also a grinding noise that comes and goes while driving forward.

I dunno, my daily driver automatic is giving me all kinds of weird grinds and noises! Your help is appreciate

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I have a no start problem occasionally with my daughters 240. It has a new starter,battery,and I have cleaned the contacts everywhere. 99% of the time it starts but sometimes it takes four or five tries and all you get is a click. Is the answer in the ignition switch itself maybe? Jiggling a few times does seem to get it started along with a twist or two of the wheel. How hard is this repair?

Is the click coming from inside the car or under the hood? Sometimes you get a starter that has problems. Also, how do your batter terminals/cables look? My first car was an 87 maxima that had corroded battery cables that would do the same thing that you are saying right now.

Does anyone know the proper procedure of aquiring sponsors. I don't expect a sponsor to give me free stuff but some decent discount would really come in handy, as I am sure everyone with a project car can agree. But even if it is a shot in the dark I would like to atleast try but I don't know the proper procedure. I haven't cut corners on my car, nothing but the best and the best is expensive.

Well, you should start with an email, letter, or phone call. Try and include pictures if you can. Also, email me some pictures and some details and stuff. I'm on the NICO Ride Of The Month comittee, and if you have what it takes, you can be one of our rides of the month, which is only good for getting your name out and strengthening your portfolio. NICO is an respectable name in the business.

hellomy question is about taking my front and rear bumpers off? i have searched and saw that most take off the hood and pop ups off in order to take off the bumper, do i need to take them off to get just the bumper off??and how would i go about taking the rear bumper off?ive searched to see if there was a write up or anything but i have not found anything so if i could get any tips that would be great. thanks for any help.

Your best bet would be to pick up a factory service manual. I haven't taken the rear bumper off my car yet, but plan to this winter to take care of some serious rust back there. The front bumper was annoying to say the least. You are first going to need to pull your marker/signal lights out of there, and disconnect the wires. Crawl underneath the car and just start undoing bolts. There are way more bolts holding the bumper on than are neccessary, so when you think you are done, you probably aren't. Get all the ones you see and try and get it off. You should be able to find bolts that you have missed by wiggling it and seeing what is holding it down. IIRC, there are about 16 bolts holding it on. Good luck! (If you need more help, you could try doing a NICO search).

I have a 1991 240sx, Automatic (go ahead and laugh) with a KA24DE. When I go into reverse without braking, there is a grinding noise coming from the rear driver side wheel. The sound goes away when I brake while reversing, or leave the emergency break halfway in reverse. My friend and I checked the rear brakes pads on the two back tires, and they seem to have plenty of metal on them. Any suggestions?

Also, when I start the car and rev around 3,000 rpm there is a weird rattling noise coming from the front of the car, and also a grinding noise that comes and goes while driving forward.

I dunno, my daily driver automatic is giving me all kinds of weird grinds and noises! Your help is appreciate

So, when you are driving in reverse with no brakes it is making the noise, or when you change gears into reverse it makes the noise?

The rattle coming from the front of the car (which probably sounds almost like a ball in a spray paint can... maybe not quite but I know what you are talking about) is most likely the upper chain guide for your timing chain. You can remove them with no ill effects. A NICO search should reveal a how-to article about it.

Could you describe the grinding noise in a little more detail? When I think grinding, I think gears and crunching and all sorts of bad stuff.

[hazukijitsu]

Is the click coming from inside the car or under the hood? Sometimes you get a starter that has problems. Also, how do your batter terminals/cables look? My first car was an 87 maxima that had corroded battery cables that would do the same thing that you are saying right now.

Well, you should start with an email, letter, or phone call. Try and include pictures if you can. Also, email me some pictures and some details and stuff. I'm on the NICO Ride Of The Month comittee, and if you have what it takes, you can be one of our rides of the month, which is only good for getting your name out and strengthening your portfolio. NICO is an respectable name in the business.

Your best bet would be to pick up a factory service manual. I haven't taken the rear bumper off my car yet, but plan to this winter to take care of some serious rust back there. The front bumper was annoying to say the least. You are first going to need to pull your marker/signal lights out of there, and disconnect the wires. Crawl underneath the car and just start undoing bolts. There are way more bolts holding the bumper on than are neccessary, so when you think you are done, you probably aren't. Get all the ones you see and try and get it off. You should be able to find bolts that you have missed by wiggling it and seeing what is holding it down. IIRC, there are about 16 bolts holding it on. Good luck! (If you need more help, you could try doing a NICO search).

So, when you are driving in reverse with no brakes it is making the noise, or when you change gears into reverse it makes the noise?

The rattle coming from the front of the car (which probably sounds almost like a ball in a spray paint can... maybe not quite but I know what you are talking about) is most likely the upper chain guide for your timing chain. You can remove them with no ill effects. A NICO search should reveal a how-to article about it.

Could you describe the grinding noise in a little more detail? When I think grinding, I think gears and crunching and all sorts of bad stuff.

I want to thanks you for taking your time to reply. The grinding noise only happens in reverse, When i put the car in reverse there is no noise, only when backing up without brakes. Someone told me it was the differential, but wouldnt it make noise going forward also if it was the diff? The sounds seems to be coming from the rear driver side tire. The grinding sounds like metal grinding together, kind of like a groaning noise.

The noise from the front. When i first noticed the noise, it sounded like a very short belt squeak, but now it sounds like the fan is rubbing on something. Now the fan sounds really loud, like a vacuum.

Any advice will help. I dont know why and where all of these noises are coming from. Im getting very frustrated!