I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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hydro wrote:would it be smart to take an s14 over an s13 if theyre both clean and around the same price?I like both body styles.http://sacramento.craigslist.o....html i know its a lot.http://sacramento.craigslist.o....html
If those are your only 2 options, you would be a fool not to get the S14.



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PapaSmurf2k3
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soupmotorsport wrote:Hi everyone im new here and plan on growing with the community just need a few questions answered. thanks in advance. So planning to buy a 95 se this weekend with 85000 original miles by an original owner(i know sweet) price is at 3500(even sweeter lol).So this car has been sitting in the lot for a good year now, saw it start up but need a boost from an battery.Will get to drive it tomorrow with plates. sounds sweet and everything. NO rust on engine bay, or anything. Just need to know if i need to do any changing on the engine such as belts alternators etc, i know i need a new battery for sure. So please do help me as much as u can, it will be appreciated. thanks
Ask the owner if the belts have ever been replaced. If not, you should replace them. Also, you should definitely change the oil, and coolant. You'll find this out on your own, but you're going to have to change the windshield wipers too.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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6-pac wrote:I recently purchased my 92 240sx SE hatch and the power steering began to leak almost immediately, then I realized it was at the boot on the rack. The pump quit a day later with fluid. I don't have a problem steering this thing whatsoever without it. However, once I noticed that it had quit, it began to overheat slightly climbing to approx 80%. Can this have anything to do with the pump pulling too hard on the fan/waterpump? (sorry...noob)

The guy I bought it from said that it had a new water pump installed, and to try putting a new radiator cap on it. The last time I did that (old car), it created so much pressure it tried to blow up my car! hahah, I had to put the old one back on and it ran fine. I'm gonna replace the thermostat tomorrow and see if that helps at all. Hopefully get the rack and the pump in a couple of weeks... (broke dude).

Any suggestions or help are much appreciated. Thanks ahead of time. By the way, the engine is very solid.
If you are running the pump with no fluid, it is probably screaming it's little heart out. I suggest you fix the power steering first, then swap in a new thermostat and change your coolant. Check your water pump while the car is running, and see if it has any shaft play or little leaks or anything.

odmoht
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nooberler in need of help!!! lolso i bought a new thermostat, but the store didnt have anymore gaskets...-.-as for the silicone sealant, can i use the honda one? or are they all the same? o.0

thanks.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah, most likely you can use honda sealant. Check to make sure it is coolant resistant though. Some are specifically made to be coolant resistant, some are oil resistant, etc. I suggest you go to another store for the real gasket, even if it is the dealer.

odmoht
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do i get both the gaskets? because theres two with different shapes. looks like one for each side.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah, it has been a while since I have changed a thermostat on the 240, but that sounds right. The worst thing that can happen is you don't need both gaskets and can either bite the bullet on the $2 or whatever it is, or return it.

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roadboy240sx
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i have a 91 240 (kade) with headers and straight pipe ( no cat ) to a megan muffler tip. would a inline muffler from like advanced auto make it quieter?

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Probably, how big is the piping going to the back? I've heard that if you can score a stock WRX muffler, they flow extremely well AND keep the car pretty quiet.

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roadboy240sx
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its 2.25 untill the rear axel then 2.5 to the muffler

odmoht
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awesomee, thanks for the answer

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PapaSmurf2k3
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roadboy240sx wrote:its 2.25 untill the rear axel then 2.5 to the muffler
Well, the WRX muffler has a 2.5" inlet. You might want to see if you can rig that up. Just remember, the farther away a flow obstruction is from the motor, the less impact it has.

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mastermindspr04
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I just bought an 1990 240sx a week ago and had some question tryin to figure out some small problem. Ok my speedo doesn't regiestar my speed milage and so forth. I checked for a speedo cable and see that the dash is electrical not analog. I also check near the rear transaxle and notice that the anit skid cable has been cut and in the fuse box in the engine bay the anti skid fuses have been bypassed. I was wondering does how the speedo work with these cars have anything to do with the anti skid cable since it feeds to the transmission. Or any other idea why the speedo isn't working.

odmoht
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does anyone kno if s14 se wheel studs will fit onto the s13 hubs?

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Warped161
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mastermindspr04 wrote:I just bought an 1990 240sx a week ago and had some question tryin to figure out some small problem. Ok my speedo doesn't regiestar my speed milage and so forth. I checked for a speedo cable and see that the dash is electrical not analog. I also check near the rear transaxle and notice that the anit skid cable has been cut and in the fuse box in the engine bay the anti skid fuses have been bypassed. I was wondering does how the speedo work with these cars have anything to do with the anti skid cable since it feeds to the transmission. Or any other idea why the speedo isn't working.
If you mean the ABS system no it has no affect on the speedo, there is a speed sensor mounted on the very end of the transmission passenger side. You can unbolt and unplug the sensor and test it with a multi meter. After you remove the sensor place the test leads from the multi meter into the sensors plug, when you turn the worm gear on the end of the sensor you should get a voltage reading on the meter.

onemad240
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i have a 95 kade and need a maf sensor and was wondering if any maf sensor from another kade will work?

rsdans240sx
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Any year KADE will work...however; why not upgrade to the z32 MAF?

onemad240
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i thought if i were to upgrade to a z32 maf i would have to have bigger injectors and a tune?

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odmoht wrote:does anyone kno if s14 se wheel studs will fit onto the s13 hubs?
Yes, as long as you are just talking about the stud itself.
onemad240 wrote:i thought if i were to upgrade to a z32 maf i would have to have bigger injectors and a tune?
You don't NEED to have bigger injectors, but you would need something to recognize the larger MAF. There is no reason to upgrade to the Z32 MAF if the car is stock, it will just be more expensive, and unnecessary wiring and tuning.

onemad240
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well i'm gonna go boost very soon anyway. there is a turbo on the way to mi casa right now from atp turbo, but i do have a bad maf sensor right now and was gonna get a z32 maf anyway. so what would be a good direction to go. what do i need to for the ecu to recognize the z32 maf

...i won't have the turbo set up completely together for probably another three weeks btw

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You will need either an ECU tune, or SAFC or E-manage.

rsdans240sx
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If you are going turbo definitely go with the z32...and they are not that expensive I picked one up off of craigslist in good working condition for $20.00...I see them all the time for $20-$40 bucks.

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you are probably seeing the N60 MAFs. What you want is the N62. N60 only meeters roughly 300hp worth of air where the N62 meeters 550.

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dahveed
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h
Warped161 wrote:i meant test the switch, when mine whent it made it so the car would give me intermittent starting problems.
how would i go about testing this switch?? it was starting fine for a few days, but its not turning on again now =/. but this time i can hear something turning over

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Warped161
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dahveed wrote:h how would i go about testing this switch?? it was starting fine for a few days, but its not turning on again now =/. but this time i can hear something turning over
You remove the switch from the bracket above the clutch pedal, now does the engine turn over and not start or is the starter turning but just not engaging?

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dahveed
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Warped161 wrote: You remove the switch from the bracket above the clutch pedal, now does the engine turn over and not start or is the starter turning but just not engaging?
im sorry for sucking at describing things haha! but here goes. when i turn the key, i can hear something in the engine bay clicking i guess.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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STARTER!

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mastermindspr04
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ok I was plannin on chekcing my speed sensor and notice that the wire running from the senor to the control module has been cut. Been trying to find the wire but am stuck because I'm not gettting any sign that any wire that says goes to the speed senor is hot. So I'm pretty much stuck on this issuse an suggestion??????

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mastermindspr04
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Also I notice when I rev the engine to around 6000 6500 rpm in neutral I lose power untill the it drops down to around 3000 then I have to push in the clutch and it revs right. I did then same thing while on the high way testing the can and it does the same thing in pretty much everygear except in 5th it loses the pull around 5000rpm and have to let it drop to 3000rpm and I have the pull again. Any idea what this can be.

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Warped161
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:STARTER!


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