I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
zenki95
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
In addition to what warped said, be advised that the EGR tube is a royal pain in the *** to get out from the exhaust manifold. You might have to heat it up and get like, an 8 foot cheater bar to loosen it. You'll probably want to remove your heat shield altogether during the process. You will then remove the EGR tube, and plug the hole you will have in your exhaust, and then buy or make an EGR blockoff plate and install that when you remove the actual EGR valve. It is a pretty straight forward removal (besides being in a tight spot).

Well, I don't see why you would need a spacer for your O2 sensor, would you care to elaborate? Are your aftermarket headers so crappy that they do something freaky to the O2 sensor? The other 2 codes, you might have to search in 240 FAQ for what exactly they mean. You should first try seafoaming the car and then resetting the ECU to see if the EGR fault goes away, and maybe the closed loop fault as well. You will DEFINITELY have to replace your O2 sensor after a seafoaming.
well dont worry about the o2 sensor deal..i just figured that the airflow was increased by the tubes of the new headers and it was throwing off the o2 sensor, but i guess not. anyway, what exactly is "seafoaming" the car?


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dahveed
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ok, so i was having problems getting my piggy getting started for the past couple of days, but today my dad and i went out for a drive, bringing the battery jumper cuz we figured we'd had to jump it. but my dad gets in, and turns it on fine! wtf?!? whats up with that, first it wouldnt start but now it does?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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zenki95 wrote:anyway, what exactly is "seafoaming" the car?
Your local auto parts store should have this stuff called "seafoam". It kinda works like all those other things that say they will "clean your engine" and all that crap, but this stuff actually works. Its funny like that, the stuff that always works, you never see an advertisement for (when was the last time you saw an ad for PB blaster?).Anyway, buy a can of that stuff. Pour half the can into your gas tank, drive around a little bit. After a day or so or whatever other decent ammount of driving, use the rest of the can through the brake booster vacuum line. This might take 2 people to keep the car running. When it has sucked it all up, shut the car off for about 10 minutes and go get a gas mask and a video camera (optional). Come back after 10 minutes and start the car. When it starts (it might be rough), DRIVE THE ABSOLUTE PISS OUT OF IT. Make sure you are in a well ventalated area, preferibly not near any significant area of population or where it might cause an accident, cos this **** will be the craziest smoke screen you will ever see. After maybe 20 minutes of driving, your car should be pretty damn clean of any junk, and if you are lucky it will have cleaned your EGR system out too. Afterwards you'll be wise to change your plugs and O2 sensor.

Any other questions about seafoam, or other's experiences can be found through a simple search on here.

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Steady_One_S13
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Yeah, that would be dumb of me to cut into it or sommething.Thanks for the 411.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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dahveed wrote:ok, so i was having problems getting my piggy getting started for the past couple of days, but today my dad and i went out for a drive, bringing the battery jumper cuz we figured we'd had to jump it. but my dad gets in, and turns it on fine! wtf?!? whats up with that, first it wouldnt start but now it does?
Maybe your battery needed a good charge, and got it from you driving around? Were the ambient conditions any different than when you were trying it? (Temperature?)

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Warped161
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Also when you say trouble getting it started, was it turning over slow or just not at all?

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dahveed
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there is a heat wave here in san diego, and a few hours ago i'd say it was around 90F! and it is a new battery. the past few days when it was having trouble starting it was a little cooler... i'm guessing around 10 degrees cooler, not a lot though. and no warped, it would not turn over at all.

thanks for the answers guys

hydro
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which one is better?I want a coupe with a dual cam so..

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/870701517.html

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/865874538.html

Thanks


Modified by hydro at 2:42 PM 10/9/2008

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Warped161
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dahveed wrote:there is a heat wave here in san diego, and a few hours ago i'd say it was around 90F! and it is a new battery. the past few days when it was having trouble starting it was a little cooler... i'm guessing around 10 degrees cooler, not a lot though. and no warped, it would not turn over at all.

thanks for the answers guys
It may not be the battery at all, if the car has a manual transmission the first thing i would check is the clutch safety switch located at the top of the clutch pedal. If that switch is failing the car wont start, i had the same problem with mine. I ended up removing the switch and just twisting the wires together, NOW BE ADVISED AT HOW DANGEROUS THIS CAN BE! If you leave your car in gear and don't press in the clutch the car will jump so you just might want to replace the switch. You can remove the switch and inspect it for damage as well as use a basic multi meter to test it.

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Warped161
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hydro wrote:which one is better?I want a coupe with a dual cam so..

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/870701517.html

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/865874538.html

Thanks
please dont buy a car with a welded diff unless you don't plan on driving it on the street as a daily.

S13Ricky
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Is there any modifications I have to do to the engine bay fit an RB26dett to a 240? Cutting, welding, find parts? I'm thinking about doing an RB swap for a couple of days rather than an SR.

hydro
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I do plan on having it as a daily driver.Why shouldn't I have a welded diff??


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Warped161
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hydro wrote:I do plan on having it as a daily driver.Why shouldn't I have a welded diff??
to qoute papasmurf2ks about a page ago "Chances are if the car has a welded diff, it has had the ever living piss beaten out of it. If you try to drive it on the street, it will handle like crap, could be dangerous in the rain, and you will experience extreme amounts of accelerated tire wear."

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PapaSmurf2k3
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S13Ricky wrote:Is there any modifications I have to do to the engine bay fit an RB26dett to a 240? Cutting, welding, find parts? I'm thinking about doing an RB swap for a couple of days rather than an SR.
IIRC, the RB26 has the exhaust on the other side. I could be wrong though. Check out the RB forums. I don't reccommend RB swaps. I get by far the most questions about RB related crap (simple stuff!) from people with swapped motors. I don't have any experience with them myself, but you should make your own descision. Basically what I'm telling you is that I can't help you with anything RB related.
dahveed wrote:there is a heat wave here in san diego, and a few hours ago i'd say it was around 90F! and it is a new battery. the past few days when it was having trouble starting it was a little cooler... i'm guessing around 10 degrees cooler, not a lot though. and no warped, it would not turn over at all.

thanks for the answers guys
So you turn the key... no clicking, no nothing? Intermittant? Sounds like a starter to me. If it were the switch, it would probably be constant. When you swap your starter out for a new one, make sure you clean all your connections well.

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dahveed
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thanks warped! it does indeed have a manual! but alas, my life seems to have hit a little 'snag' that might leave me not only 240-less, but possibly homeless as well . but if its smooth sailing and nothing goes down, i shall have a go at it tomorrow. thanks for all the help!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Again, to back up what Warped said, before you go doing all that wiring and/or swapping out switches, you should check it with a multi-meter.

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Warped161
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dahveed wrote:thanks warped! it does indeed have a manual! but alas, my life seems to have hit a little 'snag' that might leave me not only 240-less, but possibly homeless as well . but if its smooth sailing and nothing goes down, i shall have a go at it tomorrow. thanks for all the help!
wow good luck hope everything works out.

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dahveed
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oh! how could i forget to mention, i did test it with a multimeter! without anything going on, the battery was like sub 1. then after i jumped it, it was at 13 the whole time, even with revving and what not. the lights as well.

EDIT: yeah me too dude =\ .

hydro
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O.Thanks for the input.

This would be my first 240.Is it unreasonable to ask to take in the sellers car to a mechanic for an inspection??Any signs of hard driving I can look for?

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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i must be blanking out but i 4got if u can use 300zx hubs to convert to 5 lug or not?

S13Ricky
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thanks papasmurf

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:i must be blanking out but i 4got if u can use 300zx hubs to convert to 5 lug or not?
quoted just in case no1 saw it on the page b4

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Warped161
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dahveed wrote:oh! how could i forget to mention, i did test it with a multimeter! without anything going on, the battery was like sub 1. then after i jumped it, it was at 13 the whole time, even with revving and what not. the lights as well.

EDIT: yeah me too dude =\ .
i meant test the switch, when mine whent it made it so the car would give me intermittent starting problems.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:
quoted just in case no1 saw it on the page b4
I'm almost 100% positive you can.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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hydro wrote:O.Thanks for the input.

This would be my first 240.Is it unreasonable to ask to take in the sellers car to a mechanic for an inspection??Any signs of hard driving I can look for?
That is a very smart thing to do, especially when it comes to a car like a 240, which applies to a demographic that likes to beat on the car. Things to check for would be compression, make sure the oil/coolant is OK (no blown/leaking head gasket), have the mechanic do a battery check, make sure a catalytic converter is still there, and check the tires to see if the drive wheels have excessive wear.

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
I'm almost 100% positive you can.
almost 100 isnt good enough!!! Thanks though.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Well, almost 100% means that I've read it, but haven't tried it myself. Back when I did my 300zx brake swap, most people just bought the whole spindle and swapped everything in, so they could also use 300zx rotors, without the need to re-drill them.

I just re-drilled my rotors.

hydro
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would it be smart to take an s14 over an s13 if theyre both clean and around the same price?I like both body styles.http://sacramento.craigslist.o....html i know its a lot.http://sacramento.craigslist.o....html

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soupmotorsport
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Hi everyone im new here and plan on growing with the community just need a few questions answered. thanks in advance. So planning to buy a 95 se this weekend with 85000 original miles by an original owner(i know sweet) price is at 3500(even sweeter lol).So this car has been sitting in the lot for a good year now, saw it start up but need a boost from an battery.Will get to drive it tomorrow with plates. sounds sweet and everything. NO rust on engine bay, or anything. Just need to know if i need to do any changing on the engine such as belts alternators etc, i know i need a new battery for sure. So please do help me as much as u can, it will be appreciated. thanks

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6-pac
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I recently purchased my 92 240sx SE hatch and the power steering began to leak almost immediately, then I realized it was at the boot on the rack. The pump quit a day later with fluid. I don't have a problem steering this thing whatsoever without it. However, once I noticed that it had quit, it began to overheat slightly climbing to approx 80%. Can this have anything to do with the pump pulling too hard on the fan/waterpump? (sorry...noob)

The guy I bought it from said that it had a new water pump installed, and to try putting a new radiator cap on it. The last time I did that (old car), it created so much pressure it tried to blow up my car! hahah, I had to put the old one back on and it ran fine. I'm gonna replace the thermostat tomorrow and see if that helps at all. Hopefully get the rack and the pump in a couple of weeks... (broke dude).

Any suggestions or help are much appreciated. Thanks ahead of time. By the way, the engine is very solid.


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