I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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alfsnissan
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Hello, I posted an issue back on page 50 about some popping/clicking noise coming from the right rear almost near the driveshaft that would only happen if I made a hard left turn. Any opinions on what that could be? I did a visual underneath and didn’t see anything. Papa, I've been talking to you about this and do you think that the cv axle could be bad/going bad. It will start that noise on small left turns now. Thanks.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah, if you can, crawl under the rear of your car and check the half shafts. Usually the cv boots click on FWD vehicles in turns, because it is putting them under a different stress, but RWD is usually different. Look for cracked or torn boots. If you are really ambitious and want to kill it with fire, you could replace your differential with a limited slip unit, halfshafts and all, and replace the spindle and everything and convert to 5 lug. That would be expensive though.

enkei2k
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i have an s14 and just got a FSTB and having problems installing it. i can't get the nut bolts to come off. any ideas how to remove them properly so i can get my bar on my car? do i need a specific tool for this? thanks.

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240pr06
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hows it going guyscould someone post pictures of where the bolt to drain the coolant of an s13 is located i have seen the ones from the write up on here but could not find it, maybe im blind, thanks for any help

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Warped161
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240pr06 wrote:hows it going guyscould someone post pictures of where the bolt to drain the coolant of an s13 is located i have seen the ones from the write up on here but could not find it, maybe im blind, thanks for any help
this is the side of the radiator facing toward the engine.This is the drain.
enkei2k wrote:i have an s14 and just got a FSTB and having problems installing it. i can't get the nut bolts to come off. any ideas how to remove them properly so i can get my bar on my car? do i need a specific tool for this? thanks.
If they are on real tight you may need a breaker bar, also you wan to install the brace with the front end off the ground so it will sit correctly.

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jakums
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so how bad is it to weld the diff in a car cuz im helping my friend find a 240 and he found one thats in good shape, but it has a welded diff and i cant amagin thats good for it so to make sure i thought i would ask

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240pr06
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good god well i thought i looked everywhere and didnt see anything but i will look there now, do you know what the one under the left front tire is for?its a 14mm bolt this is from a write up i sawP.S. This applies to SOHC and DOHC models.

Where is the coolant drain plug on the block?

It is on the left side of the engine (looking from the driver seat). It is very close to the O2 sensor below the exshaust manifold cover. You can not see from the top Rise the car slightly, and look up from behind the left front wheel and you should see it. It is a 14mm short bolt. It is hard to undo from underneath the car. However use about 6" extension and unscrew from the top. Make sure to wear safety glasses. This should be on all the S13.

thanks for the help

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Warped161
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240pr06 wrote:good god well i thought i looked everywhere and didnt see anything but i will look there now, do you know what the one under the left front tire is for?its a 14mm bolt this is from a write up i sawP.S. This applies to SOHC and DOHC models.

Where is the coolant drain plug on the block?

It is on the left side of the engine (looking from the driver seat). It is very close to the O2 sensor below the exshaust manifold cover. You can not see from the top Rise the car slightly, and look up from behind the left front wheel and you should see it. It is a 14mm short bolt. It is hard to undo from underneath the car. However use about 6" extension and unscrew from the top. Make sure to wear safety glasses. This should be on all the S13. thanks for the help
Okay so i think this is the article you were talking about. zerothread/220947The drain plug is right next to the last freezout plug on the motor, it is covered by the exhaust manifold and in my case it's an allen not a regular bolt.
Modified by Warped161 at 9:19 PM 9/28/2008

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Warped161
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jakums wrote:so how bad is it to weld the diff in a car cuz im helping my friend find a 240 and he found one thats in good shape, but it has a welded diff and i cant amagin thats good for it so to make sure i thought i would ask
Good for track sucks for street, whenever he makes a turn he will get tire hopping, and there is always the chance of the welds giving out.

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240pr06
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allright i will check to see if i find it now, do you think its better to drain it that way? and the plug you showed me by the radiator i cannot get to that one because of the front bumper. thanks you have been a great help.

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Warped161
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240pr06 wrote:allright i will check to see if i find it now, do you think its better to drain it that way? and the plug you showed me by the radiator i cannot get to that one because of the front bumper. thanks you have been a great help.
i removed my motor as you can see and i just drained it from radiator. but that plug will help get the rest out of the block.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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What are you draining the coolant for anyway? The bolt on the motor will probably be more difficult to get to, and you won't get a complete drain from it. I always thought the radiator drain was in a very accessable location. I've never had a problem with it.
jakums wrote:so how bad is it to weld the diff in a car cuz im helping my friend find a 240 and he found one thats in good shape, but it has a welded diff and i cant amagin thats good for it so to make sure i thought i would ask
Chances are if the car has a welded diff, it has had the ever living piss beaten out of it. If you try to drive it on the street, it will handle like crap, could be dangerous in the rain, and you will experience extreme ammounts of accelerated tire wear.

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240pr06
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im going to drain the coolant because i just got a new Replacement radiator over flow bottle and thought it would be nice to just drain it again since im sure it hasnt been done in many years, also because my car was overheating a bit but thats a whole other situations. i will try to see if i can get to the plug on the radiator and do it that way. thanks for the help guys

zenki95
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1) i just got my stock 95 s14, and i put in 4-2-1 headers. the problem is that my EGR tube doesnt screw in because the angle is slightly off and i cant move it around much because the tube is alreddy inside the header outlet, and my strength seems not enough anyway. does anyone know a good way to move the EGR tube at all to align the threading without straining so much?

2) the o2 sensor hole on the header that is by the testpipe was threaded the same diameter and thread pattern as the o2 sensor hole in the engine bay. i kno of guys who have shaved down the hole and welded on a 12mm x 1.25tp nut, but i have neither the access to the tools nor the experience to carry that out. are there any alternatives that i could possibly do myself that would not burn a hole in my pocket?

i would appreciate any and all suggestions.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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2: Try and find a shallow bolt that you can screw in there. You are going to want to use some sort of lock washer.

1: Sounds like you got a crappy header. Your only bet is to bend the EGR tube so that it will fit. Good luck.

TKLEI14
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Okay, I didnt want to make a thread because I'm sure this is asked 100 times a week.

1. Is there a thread or place I can look to find info about Common problems/issues with S14 240sx's. I'm looking to buy one, and I want to know what to look at when inspecting one.

2. Where can I look for the kit to swap the car to a RB25/26. Engine mounts, ect. ect.

Thanks,Tom

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PapaSmurf2k3
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1. There have been previous threads about it. The most common problems are similar to S13s. Look for rot, especially underneath and around the rocker panels. 95-96 S14s generally had headlights that would become cloudy or yellow, but can be fixed by wetsanding and buffing them. Those are pretty much the major problems to look for. Bonus items to look for are 5 lug hubs, which means (if it is stock and came like that from the factory) that the car is an SE, has Anti-lock brakes, and has a limited slip differential.That's all I can really think of right now.

2. Maybe hit up the RB subforum? Either that or find a NICO sponsor that sells RB accessories and look for the stuff there. If they don't have it, call them or shoot them an email and see what they think.

megaderk
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does anyone know if it is illegal in the state of illinois to take off the cat and run a straight pipe?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I am almost 100% sure that it is. You might want to hop on over to the regional forum and check there... or just call your local PD, but they will probably tell you it is whether it is or not (when in doubt... its illegal according to them).

TKLEI14
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:1. There have been previous threads about it. The most common problems are similar to S13s. Look for rot, especially underneath and around the rocker panels. 95-96 S14s generally had headlights that would become cloudy or yellow, but can be fixed by wetsanding and buffing them. Those are pretty much the major problems to look for. Bonus items to look for are 5 lug hubs, which means (if it is stock and came like that from the factory) that the car is an SE, has Anti-lock brakes, and has a limited slip differential.That's all I can really think of right now.

2. Maybe hit up the RB subforum? Either that or find a NICO sponsor that sells RB accessories and look for the stuff there. If they don't have it, call them or shoot them an email and see what they think.
Thanks for the info, I will be searching in the RB subform to find out what the price is for the parts needed for the RB swap.

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Speckid14
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Can I run a 275/35/18 tire on the rear of my S14???

My setup:30mm Rear roll/overfender18 x 9.5" 5zigen FN01's+12 offset (Rear)

Broadfield is doing it on his S13 coupe according to the fitment database:
Broadfield wrote: 18x8.5 +32 245/4018x10 +44 275/35Cusco CoiloversRolled Quarters
I am going to do whatever it takes to get 275's on the rear, anything less means less than zero traction, hehe.

Thanks in advance, Speckid

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CoreytheStoryS14
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Im really new to the 240sx because Ive never owned one before and just bought a 95 s14. The brakes need work because the pedal goes to the floor and barely stops and also the gas tank has a small leak.Any ideas on how to fix these??

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Speckid14 wrote:Can I run a 275/35/18 tire on the rear of my S14???

My setup:30mm Rear roll/overfender18 x 9.5" 5zigen FN01's+12 offset (Rear)

Broadfield is doing it on his S13 coupe according to the fitment database:

I am going to do whatever it takes to get 275's on the rear, anything less means less than zero traction, hehe.

Thanks in advance, Speckid
I want to say yes, but you should probably visit the wheel and tire forum, or send an email direct to Broadfield (his first name is Toby).
CoreytheStoryS14 wrote:Im really new to the 240sx because Ive never owned one before and just bought a 95 s14. The brakes need work because the pedal goes to the floor and barely stops and also the gas tank has a small leak.Any ideas on how to fix these??
The brakes- check your brake fluid. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere. IF it is full, your master cylinder is probably bad, or you have air in the lines. Look for a leak and if you can't find one (and your fluid level is fine), try bleeding them.

Do you know where the leak is in the tank? Is it in the tank itself, like on the side or bottom or something? If so, you should be able to patch it relatively easily (assuming it is small enough).

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shmex
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Hey papa, I never ask much. Normally I search all the time. But I'm on my phone as I post this, and I need to know where the second bleeder nipple is on the clutch block. Two das ago as I closed my slave cyl bleeder screw, I torqued it too much by accident. Story in a nutshell, complete and utter fail. Nipple broke off but its shutt. So I need to find the other bleeder screw. A friend of mine said its on the clutch block. Thanx papa!!!! Smurf it up!

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Yeah there should be another one right there on the clutch box. IIRC its on the side of the box that faces the front of the car, but I can't remember all too well cos I ripped the clutch box of death out a long time ago.

Your best bet is to rip it out and replace your slave. It should only be like 20 bucks.

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shmex
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Sweet that's what imma gonna do. Just I need my car, cuz its my dd. Looking for a sentra bucket right now....but anyways, so if I bleed it from there it should be good yes? I hope so. Cuz I'm gonna get a replacement, and install it. Just need to be able to get mobile.....yes like 'the who' song...going mobile!!! Hahaha. Thanx for your info dude. I don't post in here at all realyl, but I do always see the help you give. Subscribing to this thread and the emails sent to my phone has saved me a lot of trouble.....for noobs like me I suggest it. Cuz this thread has it all, and papa is the don of the thread! Werd up...sorry for the brownnose! Hahaha. Thanx again. -Heath

tweakit
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Hey my name is matt. Ive wanted a 240sx since i was 10 and i just got one a couple of months ago. Im goin to be putin an SR in it. The block is goin to be fully built. And im goin to have head work done. Im not goin to run alot of boost though. I asked this question on the camshafts thread and didnt get an answer. Ok im goin to be manily autocrossing and drifting my s13. im looking for 300 -350hp. i want to have minimal turbo lag. whats a good turbo/cam set up.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Stock cams aren't that bad. You might want to check out what Jim Wolfe has to offer.http://www.jimwolftechnology.c...ID=13

Emailing them your needs would get you a pretty good answer.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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shmex wrote:Sweet that's what imma gonna do. Just I need my car, cuz its my dd. Looking for a sentra bucket right now....but anyways, so if I bleed it from there it should be good yes? I hope so. Cuz I'm gonna get a replacement, and install it. Just need to be able to get mobile.....yes like 'the who' song...going mobile!!! Hahaha. Thanx for your info dude. I don't post in here at all realyl, but I do always see the help you give. Subscribing to this thread and the emails sent to my phone has saved me a lot of trouble.....for noobs like me I suggest it. Cuz this thread has it all, and papa is the don of the thread! Werd up...sorry for the brownnose! Hahaha. Thanx again. -Heath
Well, to tell you the truth, I have never had any sort of luck bleeding the system with the clutch box on there, let alone from JUST the clutch box. It might work if you are in a pinch and just need to get somewhere, but you might have to pump the pedal 2 or 3 times quickly before you make a shift. You can also shift the transmission without using the clutch at all, just press the shifter into gear semi-gently at the approximate RPMs where that gear would be during that speed.

You should REALLY just get a new slave cylinder and a new clutch line to eliminate the clutch box.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...04906

That is what you want right there. It will make bleeding the system 10x easier and faster.

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CoreytheStoryS14
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Yeah, there's a pinhole in the front left caliper line. Where should I get that and what kind?


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