Hi thanks alot man!, anyways i was trying to source the answer because someone wants to buy them off of me. For the time being he does not care for the e-brake functionality. Just to get it to "bolt" on and work. So aside from the calipers all he would need is some conversion lines and rotors?rzerob wrote:This website will tell you everything you will need to know.
http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm
But to install you need the z32 calipers, rotors, rear splash guards and r33 brake cable. 240sx calipers have the ebrake inside them, the z32 calipers don't, so you need the rear splash guards or you won't have an ebrake. I just did this myself and it is not easy, I would not attempt unless you have some experience under your belt or if you have someone that can help. Also With you having 4 lug you will either need to convert your hubs or have a hole drilled in the z32 rotor so they will fit your 4 lug. Good luck, like I said it isn't easy but it is worth it if you upgrade to z32 brakes on all 4 wheels. Also I would definately recomend upgrading the master cylinder it is a noticable difference and I believe a must for the upgrade.
Just a guess but, IACV? Make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Does it stay running if you keep on the throttle?ashoe wrote:My 96 ka24de started immediately today but died just a few seconds later. i restarted it and it died two more times. It had been turned off about 30 minutes earlier and its about 95 degrees out today so i thought this might be a heat soak issue but i'm still worried. any advice?
sorry, i searched and now know how to test the IACVTaylor008 wrote:
Just a guess but, IACV? Make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Does it stay running if you keep on the throttle?
Coolant comes up to temp on the gauge quickly and stays rock steady at 1/3 of the way up? is there another sensor i should look at? I've never seen the car overheat or even go up to half on the gauge.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Hmm... I don't know of a way of testing the IACV, but it almost sounds like you may also be having a problem with your coolant temp sensor.
Sounds like an easy and cheap fix. I'll give it a try. Thanks!rzerob wrote:I think your idle is to low. I adjusted mine to around 650 today and it kept wanting to shut off on me. Started up great went to idle then died. I adjusted it back to 800rpms and it ran fine. I would adjust my idle a little higher and you should be fine.
dahveed wrote:crosspost from my thread, im lazy lol.
update, i just got all the paperwork and whatnot for the car (cuz i bought it myself with my own money, im pretty proud of myself :P) and it has eibach pro-kit kyb agx shocks? or springs, i dunno haha. i guess that explains why the ride was so stiff when me and my dad took it for a test drive lol. are they good? im assuming these are adjustable, so that means i can lower it and whatnot if i wanted too? sorry if my noobness is showing
Im sure they are a bit more on the 'wanted' side as are the civics, especially with rims and 180 jdm taillights. i have an 89 240sx and a 2000 civic and so far i havent had any problems with either. altho my 240 looks worse than stock, but my civic with rims and all that stuff i havnt had a problem. also depends on your area and where your going to drive the carthecanyon2k4 wrote:Hi guys,
I'm thinking abut buying an s13 (1990). My question what rate of theft do they have? Are they stolen frequently like Civic's, or are they left alone for the most part? The one I'm keen on getting just has rims, an exhaust and 180sx JDM tails on it.
TIA.
Well what I did was just swap the gauge cluster from a sohc one to a dohc one. Works like a charm. Even got those led bulbs for the cluster and put em in as I swapped em.s13r32 wrote:Hey
I just finished my kade swap on my car...just woundering if there is a way to get the kae tac to work with the kade?