I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hey okay, so i mostly read, and never ask questions, due to the fact of knowing what the word search means.

however, sometimes NICOs search is a fail. Ive been on many search engines in the past, and this one needs a revamp.

If anybody would be so kind as to give me suggestions of word combinations to look up for AC hardline install and AC install for obdI ka24de...so again just asking what i should put under the search put.....then ill do the search myself. thanx.

try searching for refridgerant lines, AC lines, AC hoses, and check both recent and archived files. Which line are you trying to replace? They are all pretty much straight forward. They might suck to replace... but they are straightforward haha.

to take off the shift knob its lefty loosey right? haha because i was trying that, and i feel like ill break it if i do it really hard >.>

Yeah, Nissan put the best bonding compound known to man on those freaking things. It takes some super monkey strength to get them off. I ended up using some channel locks and some rags and rubber gloves and all sorts of other crap to break mine loose.

I have a stock redtop SR and my turbo now when it spools, sounds like crap. I want to rebuild it but I want to know if I should rebuild it or get a new one. How do you check for shaft play? And if there's too much then you can't rebuild it can you? Also what is a good rebuild kit, does Nissan make one?

Sounds like a good time to upgrade the turbo. To check for shaft play, remove the hoses in front of your compressor wheel, and try and move the shaft back and forth GENTLY! If its so loose that the compressor blades hit the housing, you have a problem.

[shmex]

try searching for refridgerant lines, AC lines, AC hoses, and check both recent and archived files. Which line are you trying to replace? They are all pretty much straight forward. They might suck to replace... but they are straightforward haha.

hey papasmurft man i was getting worried, you hadnt been postingin this thread for a while. Im like "wheres tha papa at!" hahaha....

but thanx dude, imma check it out. I dont know too much about the ac lines, but i believe its the hardline into the compressor. The guy who put my DOHC in didnt connect it, cuz he thought i was some super dorifto trying to not sport AC. I now live in Texas and thats one thing im in dire need of...thanx dude again!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

No problem man. I just moved myself and am running into trouble getting internet, so I've kinda been doing this from work. I should be good to go on the 20th though.

I hear ya about the AC. I can usually get by, but on some days, you want to turn it on so you aren't soaking wet when you get out of your car. 240s also seem to pump out loads of heat from the firewall and under the driver as well (thats where the exhaust routes), so the problem is accentuated. I ripped the AC out of my 240 a long, long time ago. At that time I lived in RI, and did not forsee myself moving to the south. Light paint and alternate DD FTW.

[phatjo911]

From what I understand from reading the Skyline info here on Nico, what you can do is import a 1996-98 R33 from another country, then have the RI make the necessary changes to the car within 120 days, then it is 100% federally legal? No agents storming your garage?

Thanks.

[2g00d4u]

The firing order for KA24e is 1-3-4-2. Does that mean the numbers on the wires are suppose to be like this?



Right now when I am looking at the wires, the numbers go like this:



Is this bad or should I not worry about it?

Edit: NVM

Im gonna have to go back and check the actual Distributor.

Alright, I went back and check the order and its like this:



I need to make sure if this is in the correct order.

Modified by 2g00d4u at 1:50 PM 8/20/2008
Modified by 2g00d4u at 2:28 PM 8/20/2008

[KiMbRoZz]

are s13 engine components compatible with s14 engine components, i.e fuel rail, intake manifold, pulleys, valve covers, etc.?

[qat727]

are s13 engine components compatible with s14 engine components, i.e fuel rail, intake manifold, pulleys, valve covers, etc.?

Yes and no. Some of the parts are different, others not so much. The valve covers will not interchange due to bolt hole differences. Pulleys should interchange. Intakes are different, but the differences can be an improvement. S14 KA upper runners do not have the swirl control valves, whereas the S13 KA does. Fuel rail should interchange, although the pipe routing is different. If you do a search for S14 and S13 KA engine differences, you should get a better explanation of the differences. Also, the car you're swapping into will matter as to the differences.

[KiMbRoZz]

thanks

[shmex]

No problem man. I just moved myself and am running into trouble getting internet, so I've kinda been doing this from work. I should be good to go on the 20th though.

I hear ya about the AC. I can usually get by, but on some days, you want to turn it on so you aren't soaking wet when you get out of your car. 240s also seem to pump out loads of heat from the firewall and under the driver as well (thats where the exhaust routes), so the problem is accentuated. I ripped the AC out of my 240 a long, long time ago. At that time I lived in RI, and did not forsee myself moving to the south. Light paint and alternate DD FTW.

Hey dude, i just moved back to LA. Had some issues with a job i was supposed to get, so, i drove 1600+ miles back to LA. Wow 3200 hundred miles driving within three weeks sucks. Esp. if you drive through AZ and texas with no AC....

But i was gonna ask since im not leaving LA anytime soon, how hard is it to take out the complete AC system???

Oh and thanx by the way for the keywords for the search, nothing came out. Someone needs to talk to an admin bout that weak *** search engine...or not to refer ppl to search first then...because i mean i know mainly what to type in keywords, and an infinit amount of possibilities, but even with the AC search, nothing. eh oh well...

Thanx again dude, and may god have mercy on your no AC soul in the south. yikes! stay cool dude.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well, I have AC in my DD, but I don't use it. It kinda sucks up an abnormally high ammount of power, so I sacrifice comfort for power and fuel economy. Its usually not that bad. I live close to work, and when I drive its usually in the morning or the afternoon when it has kinda cooled down a little bit. Anyway, nothing may be coming up because maybe nothing is in the forums about it? Anyway, its easy as hell. If you don't have any refridgerant left in the system, just start unbolting stuff and cutting stuff til you can get it all out. You might have to unbolt the radiator supports and lean it forward to get the condenser out. If you do have refridgerant left, you can do the right thing and take it somewhere and get it drained, or do what we did back in the day and cut the line and run like hell. If I had pictures I could kinda show you what to do, but you should be able to figure it out. I mean ****, I did it back when I was 17... a young arrogant punk haha. Actually I was a pretty damn cool 17 year old.

The firing order for KA24e is 1-3-4-2. Does that mean the numbers on the wires are suppose to be like this?



Right now when I am looking at the wires, the numbers go like this:



Is this bad or should I not worry about it?

Edit: NVM

Im gonna have to go back and check the actual Distributor.

Alright, I went back and check the order and its like this:



I need to make sure if this is in the correct order.

Modified by 2g00d4u at 1:50 PM 8/20/2008

Modified by 2g00d4u at 2:28 PM 8/20/2008

Ok, the firing order is like you said, but the cylinder order is 1 2 3 4, from front to back. The dizzy cap SHOULD be numbered, but your pic looks correct. Let us know if you have any other problems.

Oh, and everyone... I have internet again. Rejoice.

[2g00d4u]

Thanks, finally got a straight answer. I'll post here if any problem arises.

[dahveed]

damn, my passenger side window is getting hard to roll up and down! it keeps jamming at times, so i dont roll it down anymore! anyone know what can be causing this? dirtyness?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

is it power or manual?

[shmex]

Does anybody know of hand what size the steering wheel nut is???

[dahveed]

haha

is it power or manual?

haha how could i forget to say what it was, manual.

[rzerob]

If you it gets hard to crank around the same area up and down. The rail could be bent. You could bend it back but it will still be a little a hard to crank in the same area. Pop the door panel off and see. And lube it with some silicon grease.

Rzerob

[nismor240sx]

HIDS:This might sound like a really stupid Q, but i am completely oblivious to HIDS.lol I'm looking at doing a silvia conversion on my hatch(Dual Halogens), and I was wandering what I would need to make them both HIDS. I don't want one to be high beams, just both be low beams, and be on at the same time. Is this do able?lol and what do I need? Also I've been looking and I can't find a good place to buy theses from, and suggestions. I've been lookin around the net, but the Internet out here (Iraq) is just too damn slow.

Engine:Ive been looking at doing a SR swap and have found a Ton of places that you can buy complete SR engines, but could some one shoot me some recomendations.............

ExteriorI have one more Q. Reagarding FRP Wide Fenders (front and rear) for a silvia conversion. Are they good quality? Reason i ask is that i dont want to buy some cheap stuff, and end up buying different ones, or converting to the OEM ones. I know I dont need rear over fenders but wanted to complete the look..........

Thanks for the time. Love this site!!! Learned alot.

[dickie]

HIDS:This might sound like a really stupid Q, but i am completely oblivious to HIDS.lol I'm looking at doing a silvia conversion on my hatch(Dual Halogens), and I was wandering what I would need to make them both HIDS. I don't want one to be high beams, just both be low beams, and be on at the same time. Is this do able?lol and what do I need? Also I've been looking and I can't find a good place to buy theses from, and suggestions. I've been lookin around the net, but the Internet out here (Iraq) is just too damn slow.

Engine:Ive been looking at doing a SR swap and have found a Ton of places that you can buy complete SR engines, but could some one shoot me some recomendations.............

ExteriorI have one more Q. Reagarding FRP Wide Fenders (front and rear) for a silvia conversion. Are they good quality? Reason i ask is that i dont want to buy some cheap stuff, and end up buying different ones, or converting to the OEM ones. I know I dont need rear over fenders but wanted to complete the look..........

Thanks for the time. Love this site!!! Learned alot.

1. There is a lot of great info out there, if you are just looking for a parts list and writeup for your specific needs search Nico. It has been done and there are probably people who are pretty knowledgeable you could contact directly or post in their threads.

2. If you are overseas with the military but your car is here, I would advise waiting until you get back to deal with it. You would want to find a place that you can go to and speak with the owner/operator in person. There are too many people out there willing to take your money and disappear in this business to try and do it over the internet/phone. If you can, maybe find the engine there and have it shipped back with you? Dunno if it would be cheaper or too expensive to bother, but at least you'd be able to put your finger on what you are actually buying.

3. FRP is pretty much your only option, I don't think they make urethane versions and metal would be all custom fab work. FRP is fine for what it is, but if you cheap out and get a knockoff of a brand-name product be prepared to deal with issues like panel gap and thin spots. Basically, you get what you pay for. Caveat emptor.

[TheArkitekt]

HIDS:This might sound like a really stupid Q, but i am completely oblivious to HIDS.lol I'm looking at doing a silvia conversion on my hatch(Dual Halogens), and I was wandering what I would need to make them both HIDS. I don't want one to be high beams, just both be low beams, and be on at the same time. Is this do able?lol and what do I need? Also I've been looking and I can't find a good place to buy theses from, and suggestions. I've been lookin around the net, but the Internet out here (Iraq) is just too damn slow.

Thanks for the time. Love this site!!! Learned alot.

did the HId conversion on my tripple projectors it was pretty straight foward. as far as both being low beams it probably wont work for the bricks. the reflectors are set for high and low, the bulb is just a bulb. If you wanted to run HIDs in the low, and city lights on the highs it would light up the housing without blinding people and probably look pretty good. just drill into the housing and add a 194 bulb.

[2g00d4u]

The factory spec spark plug gap for a 90 s13 is .039-.043.

That means that I can gap it between any of those numbers right? what gap size would you guys recommend? I have new NGK V-Powers and ka24e motor.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well, if you are on the stock motor, stock gap is fine. Most plugs come pre-gapped now a days. If you go below .039, you might not create a large enough arc to where you would be getting your most efficient burn. If you go larger than .043, you may have the gap so large that there is not enough voltage going to the plug to bridge the gap between electrodes.

[twofotey]

Can I get a general idea of the maximum amount of horsepower the ka24e can put out? I'm not sure if I want to swap for a ka24de or not so I want to know what I can expect from the sohc.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

A KA24E's power output depends on how much money you are willing to put into it. If you are going for some sort of record, you can probably squeeze 600-700hp out of it with lots of customization and lots of block work and lots of money.

[alfsnissan]

Ok, I'm new to this forum, old member of another that really doesn't get looked at anymore. I have a '95 240sx with a stock KA. I am having a fit with this car right now. Let me start with thanking to who ever, hell, everybody that can help. Ok, 1st, she wants to jolt really bad sometimes and while it starts to jolt, I the engine begins to bog down and I have to let off the gas. To try to fix this problem, I have replaced: both o2 sensors, new cats, new plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter. What else can I do, what could cause this? The check engine light is on and it say knock sensor? 2nd, when I make a hard left turn, I here a popping noise from the rear. I have done a visual inspecting and on a jack checked the wheel for movement. 3rd, I am wanting to get a new motor am I am really in tune to what people are posting but I can not make my mind up. This is really hard to decide on when many things are available. I want to stay with the KA non turbo but I want the power. I don’t know, any help would be kool, thanks again.

[reezn]

Hi Welcome to Nico. I am also a new member and recently had the same problem you described to the T. After searching here I also replaced the 02 sensor (in engine bay only) then the cap, rotor, and wires. I also replaced the Iacv valve after a couple of seafoam applications, but in the end replacing the MAF is what worked. Try and borrow one and see if that helps, the results are immediate. I'm lucky enough to be in a city with lot's of Nissan enthusiast that gather occasionally, but had to buy one online becuase of time restraints. Anyway it's worth putting in the time and money to fix the car it feels great once it's all said and done.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You could try that first, if that doesn't work, I'd look at the knock sensor, and also check your engine grounds. I had a bogging problem back in the day and it turned out to be my engine grounds were rusted and some were even broken/rusted through.

If you decide it is the MAF, I should have a KA24DE maf ready in the near future, I'm switching over to Z32. Let me know if you want it. If you need it soon, that will definately light a fire under my *** to get it done haha.

[reezn]

He's right. Grounds are easy to fix, and probably necessary by now. I also had black smoke coming out of the tail pipe. Press the gass and look in the stick your head out the window(do you see any smoke?

You could try that first, if that doesn't work, I'd look at the knock sensor, and also check your engine grounds. I had a bogging problem back in the day and it turned out to be my engine grounds were rusted and some were even broken/rusted through.

If you decide it is the MAF, I should have a KA24DE maf ready in the near future, I'm switching over to Z32. Let me know if you want it. If you need it soon, that will definately light a fire under my *** to get it done haha.

[alfsnissan]

Thanks, I have maybe a problem, I do not know anyone else in this city with a 240. They are some here but I dont know them. How much do the MAF cost? Where is it located? As for the smoke, its not balck, a little light in color. Does anyone have an idea ont eh popping sound i'm getting when in a hard left turn? Thanks
Modified by alfsnissan at 2:20 PM 8/27/2008

[2g00d4u]

Alright, so I changed the spark plugs and have some problems. Sometimes when I start the car, it would be a little rough or it wouldn't start at all. When it doesn't start, I would have to crank it a second time and it'll start and then I can drive off normally. I know its the spark plug, but what could be wrong with it?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Thanks, I have maybe a problem, I do not know anyone else in this city with a 240. They are some here but I dont know them. How much do the MAF cost? Where is it located? As for the smoke, its not balck, a little light in color. Does anyone have an idea ont eh popping sound i'm getting when in a hard left turn? Thanks

Modified by alfsnissan at 2:20 PM 8/27/2008

You could just try asking them. 240 pride man! A new maf would probably run you $150-200ish (maybe more). You could go to a junkyard and pick one up for maybe 70-100ish. I'll sell you mine for 40+ shipping if I get my Z32 in and it works fine.

The popping sound... check your springs and struts. Maybe you have a busted spring? It could be lots of things... could also be rear subframe bushings (maybe?), or maybe something to do with the rear sway bar. Does the car drive normally otherwise? (No shaking, etc). If there is no shaking or anything, it shouldn't be a ball joint or anything.

Alright, so I changed the spark plugs and have some problems. Sometimes when I start the car, it would be a little rough or it wouldn't start at all. When it doesn't start, I would have to crank it a second time and it'll start and then I can drive off normally. I know its the spark plug, but what could be wrong with it?

How do you know its the plugs? Try this: turn the key to the ON position and leave it there for a second or 2 before trying to crank it. Let me know how that works.