I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Still need an answer on this, please.

The HKS and R2D2 are both great blow off valves.

[Zee]

Thanks

[n1smodr1ft]

thanks that is a good write up, helps out a bunch.

[adrianfromthecastle]

Have you guys used the SARD R2D2 Twin Drive Type-2 Blow Off Valve? Is it any good as opposed to say the HKS SSQV or the Greddy Type RS? Thanks.

SARD's r2d2 is a diaphram type BOV similar to the Greddy RS, as opposed to the SSQV which is a pull type. I prefer the pull type BOV's better, especially if your still running a mafs uncirculated, they close up on idle waaay better than diaphram type BOV's.

I dont have any experience with SARD's, but I wasn't too impressed with the Greddy RS.

[Zee]

Cool now one more question.

In the read end, if the pumpkin has fins does that mean it might have a factory LSD?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Most rear ends have fins to dissapate heat. IIRC the stock 240sx rear end (open diff) has fins. Take a pic of your rear end, and we can tell you what it is.

[White Lightning]

I'm relatively new to the import scene, don't know a whole lot but learning a lot every day. I'm used to the American Muscle side of cars, owning a 91 Mustang, but the majority of my friends are into imports. I've been hanging around with them closely for the past few months, and I've became interested in imports and decided I will try to build one this upcoming spring/summer. I know it's a ways away but considering I don't know anything about imports I figured it wouldn't hurt for me to do a lot of research before beginning to buy parts.

As for money wise I'm a college student on a tight budget, which is why I won't be able to start next summer when I'm going to try for a second/better paying job. Also since I'm used to and love the American Muscle style, I would like to have some power underneath my import. Don't need a whole lot but enough to satisfy.

I've looked at the option of import cars and have decided on the 240. It seems to be cheaper than any other and I wanted RW-drive. I would like about 350 hp out of whatever motor. I can probably buy a 240 that's in good condition for around $1K with a lot of miles on the stock motor.

The question I have been researching swapping the motor or rebuilding the KA and putting a turbo on it. The only choice of a swap I am considering is the SR20det. With my money situation, which would be the cheapest route to go? Also considering I want to be pushing out at least 350 hp to the wheels. Also what are some companies that offer good quality rebuild kits for the KA and also SR motors?? I've been looking around and can't seem to find a lot of options. What are some companies that are popular and offer quality parts for the 240? Which would be the best route as far as rebuilding a KA or swapping out for the SR20?? I'm willing to spend money for performance even if I am on a tight budget.

[Zippy69]

Well welcome aboard. You have come to the right place. And you have definitely picked the right car! As far as your engine choices are concerned, the cheap easy way is to swap in an sr20, but you aren't going to get 350hp cheap. A turbo ka will cost close to the same as an sr swap, but with more work involved, but you should net higher hp gains from the start. The debate will probably last forever as to which one is better, but they are both good engines with the ability to push lots of horsepower relatively inexpensively. I personally like the ka, but do some research and make up your own mind. Check the stickies at the top of the page and you'll find a wealth of info. Do a search on ka versus sr, and you will find tons of threads.First things first, get your 240, and get familiar with it. Make sure it is mechanically sound, then start upgrading.240's are very light cars with excellent handling, and it doesn't take a massive amount of hp to make them extremely fast and fun.Good luck!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yo im in rhode island too.. you got any parts laying around? im workin on a serous project and need pretty much everything...let me know

I have stuff somewhere, I don't exactly know where it is right now, cos I just moved my garage. I do have some stock bore stock piston (new) rings somewhere. I bought them before I sacked up and bought forged pistons.

I'll probably have some extra silicone couplers in a couple weeks here too. I'll try and get back to you when I get a better idea about what I have.

[Zee]

White Lightning, Are you absolutely sure you want to go with an SR20? I know because of you Muscle Car background the transition might be easier if you looked into the LS1 swap. I realize it is not an import engine, but sometimes the best thing you can do is what you are familiar with. The swap will cost you about $10000, but it will net you over 400hp from the start. Just an idea that you might want to look at.

[gordonliu]

I am just trying to check my understanding here:

you can use s14/z32 inner tie rods on an s13 as long as you have larger outer ties.

this applies to upgraded tie rod systems like those that SPL and tein offer.

I am trying to make sure because megan sells 2 different outer tie kits. one for the s13 and one for the s14. If I am correct, I will be buying the s14 kit and s14 inner tie rods for my s13.

[n1smodr1ft]

thanks man just keep me posted... id love to stop by and rummage through your junk... haha

[srpowered240sx]

id love to stop by and rummage through your junk... haha

that sounded kinky.

[adrianfromthecastle]

I am just trying to check my understanding here:

you can use s14/z32 inner tie rods on an s13 as long as you have larger outer ties.

this applies to upgraded tie rod systems like those that SPL and tein offer.

I am trying to make sure because megan sells 2 different outer tie kits. one for the s13 and one for the s14. If I am correct, I will be buying the s14 kit and s14 inner tie rods for my s13.

it really depends on the brand. for example, tein outers can only be used with tein inners, not stock. iirc, the only reason why spl suggests z32's is because they're beefier (I've seen pencils thicker than the oem s13 tie rods ) . they should work with oem s13 ones... but you should call and ask, I'm not too possitive.

[gordonliu]

good point. wouldnt be surprised if megan pulled some **** similar to tein. i guess its better that way. the quality of the steel in most of the pics of the inners does seem to be higher than the stock ties. not that I will be slamming into curbs at 100 mph anyway.

[adrianfromthecastle]

good point. wouldnt be surprised if megan pulled some **** similar to tein. i guess its better that way. the quality of the steel in most of the pics of the inners does seem to be higher than the stock ties. not that I will be slamming into curbs at 100 mph anyway.

pfff.. i understeered off the road hitting a hill like 40mph and bent my oem tie rod... lol, doesn't have to be 100mph to bend it

[The Inflicted]

I've got 2 240's, and the front struts in my 95 S14 are completely worn out. This car is a daily driver but from what I've read everyone has been saying that coilovers are the way to go if ever you have to replace the suspension in these cars. Trouble is I don't have that much money to spend on it, and I certainly don't want to end up with a set of coilovers that are going to wear themselves out in a year anyway.

I'd like to see if anyone knows how long the lower-priced (Megan, K-Sport) coilovers tend to last, and if I do go with just replacing the struts if there's a brand or type I should be looking for.

Also, has anyone heard of the brand NDU? They're selling some pretty afordable kits on eBay.

[adrianfromthecastle]

I've got 2 240's, and the front struts in my 95 S14 are completely worn out. This car is a daily driver but from what I've read everyone has been saying that coilovers are the way to go if ever you have to replace the suspension in these cars. Trouble is I don't have that much money to spend on it, and I certainly don't want to end up with a set of coilovers that are going to wear themselves out in a year anyway.

I'd like to see if anyone knows how long the lower-priced (Megan, K-Sport) coilovers tend to last, and if I do go with just replacing the struts if there's a brand or type I should be looking for.

Also, has anyone heard of the brand NDU? They're selling some pretty afordable kits on eBay.

the coilover step is a pretty big step. Please understand reasons why people go with coilovers, because the ride difference is uncomparable to stock suspension. some people also tend to go with the aftermarket spring and strut route, which is a cheaper, yet still affective as well.

when choosing coilovers, make sure you choose the right spring rates for what you'll be doing with your car. Stiffer spring rates are intended for track use, while softer ones are bearable enough for street use.

also, if you decide on getting coilovers to slam your car (you should, lol), you'll need aftermarket tie rods to correct "bump steer" and rear upper contol arms to correct rear camber.

megans and k-sports are ok, depending on your standards. The problem with them is their valving kinda sucks. I havent ridden in ksports before, but from the reviews I've read, they aren't all that great. My cousin has megan streets, and I'm not all impressed (not all surprised as well, go figure, lol). but if you don't mind a bouncy ride, then by all means, go for it.

I'd also be weary of ebay sold coilovers. if theyre used, they're probably blown, if they're new, and its an off brand, its probably a poor copy. Coilovers, especially good ones, need a lot of R&D, in which I'm sure these chinese brands don't provide.

and no, I've never heard of NDU. it sounds like a university, lol

[The Inflicted]

Thanks for the input, Adrians.

As much as I hate to admit, the purpose of this car will probably continue to be as a daily driver. I'd like to start preparing this car for autocross and drifting (Especially now that I have a perfectly good S13 convertible to fall back on) but the money and time simply isn't there yet. From what I can tell it would probably be better to wait until I can build the car properly rather than half-arse it bit by bit now.

I suppose then that means replacing the struts individually, which I heard is actually harder labor-wise than going to coilovers. The quotes I've gotten from Pep Boys and advance auto parts have been pretty discouraging, so I'm probably looking at eBay for the parts. KYB and Tokico are the two most prominent brands there and in online stores elsewhere- are these respectable or should I shop around some more?

Also, both companies offer adjustable struts. I'd only want to replace the fronts if I can get away with it since the rears are still good, but this seems like it might be a decent compromise. Is there any fun to be had in these adjustable shocks with stock springs, and if so would I need to replace all four struts to get any benefit?

Also, when you said that you weren't terribly impressed with the Megan coilovers, what exactly is your frame of reference?

Edit: And when you say "Slam it" do you mean lowering the car several inches or just 1 or 2"? I wouldn't want to lower mine more than 1.5" or so, and I didn't think I needed to replace any control arms for that.
Modified by The Inflicted at 8:40 PM 11/21/2007

[adrianfromthecastle]

Thanks for the input, Adrians.

As much as I hate to admit, the purpose of this car will probably continue to be as a daily driver. I'd like to start preparing this car for autocross and drifting (Especially now that I have a perfectly good S13 convertible to fall back on) but the money and time simply isn't there yet. From what I can tell it would probably be better to wait until I can build the car properly rather than half-arse it bit by bit now.

I suppose then that means replacing the struts individually, which I heard is actually harder labor-wise than going to coilovers. The quotes I've gotten from Pep Boys and advance auto parts have been pretty discouraging, so I'm probably looking at eBay for the parts. KYB and Tokico are the two most prominent brands there and in online stores elsewhere- are these respectable or should I shop around some more?

Also, both companies offer adjustable struts. I'd only want to replace the fronts if I can get away with it since the rears are still good, but this seems like it might be a decent compromise. Is there any fun to be had in these adjustable shocks with stock springs, and if so would I need to replace all four struts to get any benefit?

Also, when you said that you weren't terribly impressed with the Megan coilovers, what exactly is your frame of reference?

Edit: And when you say "Slam it" do you mean lowering the car several inches or just 1 or 2"? I wouldn't want to lower mine more than 1.5" or so, and I didn't think I needed to replace any control arms for that.

Modified by The Inflicted at 8:40 PM 11/21/2007

haha... when I meant slam it, lol... I meant down to the ground haha... but I'm sure for most people, it isn't feasable, nor does it make sense. I just like the way it looks haha...

as far as labor wise, nah, actually doing a spring and strut swap is pretty easy. matter of fact, its actually easier to install than coilovers, because with coilovers, you have to do a lot of adjusting (damper, spring perch, and preload).

and dude...seriously its easy to swap your suspension, dont take it to the shop. All you need is a socket wrench set and a breaker bar and your straight.

and as far as the megans go, theyre bouncy especially in the rears regardless of damper settings.

if you have anyother questions on how to install them, try to catch me on aim or something... I'd help you out if you were local, it only takes like a couple of hours (probably less, I just take a lot of breaks lol)

[ralliart2k4]

Hi! New here, and this would be the place to post it as it seems to be a somewhat common issue.

I just got a 90 240sx coupe and my instrument cluster does not work. It lights up and everything, but none of the gauges respond. I downloaded the service manual, but can't find anything. I've replaced the METER fuse a few times and it blows as soon as I bump the ignition.

Next, I'll try removing the cluster, replacing the fuse, bumping ignition and testing there.

Any other suggestions?

[zero2805]

Is it feasible for me to sell my "running and rolling but everything's wrong wit it" 240 and about how much could i possibly get for it? or would it be better to part the car out? or scrap it...... ? or jus drive it till it dies ?

its a 1989 hatch with no spoiler and with a 91 front... prob cuz of an accident and they replaced it with that...The engine runs and runs pretty well but :oil leak (somtin about timing chain cover has big hole in it?)timing chain rattleframe rails bent (car tracks to the right...)motor and transmission mounts crackedcracked dash (zomg)cheap rimssome sort of suspension (i have no idea what it is but apparently they are coilovers from somewhere ... i even have the spanner wrenches!)cheap strut barsthe car is pretty damn low and very very stiff. feel every pebble on the road.ac isnt coldno radio or speakersall wires coming out of the transmission are cut AND GLUED for some reason or another (can somone explain y anyone would do that?) therefore... speed sensor/reverse gear sensor/etcinstrument panel dont work except for gassalvage titleevery thing's wrong with it but it drives from place to place roflheadlights go up and down and work :Good seats

also.. throttle seems to be really sensitive... i donno if its just me or not..and clutch engages at the very very very top... can anyone tell me why for the throttle n the clutch... im guessing crappy installation? or just.. crappy clutch? and i donno what for the throttle

How can i make the most out of this? any help please?i need advice, suggestions, comments.. lol anything
Modified by zero2805 at 5:55 AM 11/24/2007

[qat727]

Is it feasible for me to sell my "running and rolling but everything's wrong wit it" 240 and about how much could i possibly get for it? or would it be better to part the car out? or scrap it...... ? or jus drive it till it dies ?

Honestly, from your description, it sounds about beat to death. The way I see it, you've got a few reasonable choices.1) Drive it until it dies, and save up for another car in the mean time. When it dies, part the rest and start over. 2) Sell it to a ricer and tell them it's perfect for drifting practice. At this point, the car sounds in bad enough shape it wouldn't be a huge loss for it to get into a ricer's hands.3) Buy something else now, and part out what's left on the chassis.

I'm not sure how prices are out there, so I'll wait for Adrian or someone else to chime in on how much you could expect to get. Around here, you probably wouldn't get much more than 5-600 for it, but prices aren't that high here yet.

As for the throttle, I'd check to see if the cable is too tight. Clutch problem - have you tried bleeding the clutch?

[Scuffed_ChukiCoupe]

Need quick help, is cutting the wire for my speedlimiter at my ecu going to eliminate it, and which freakin wire, or can i at least get an fsm.!!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

fsm's are floating around this forum... I don't know the link off the top of my head. Cutting the speedo wire at the ECU will enable you to eliminate your 1st speed limiter, while keeping the ability to see your speed at the dash. 4th and 5th gear sensors will be 2nd speed limiters. I don't know exactly what wire it was, so I don't want to spread mis-information (and I REALLY don't feel like looking it up right now)

[Scuffed_ChukiCoupe]

yes yes yes i kno all this. The gear sensor plugs are pulled, the two middle clips that r on the transmission. I just need to find the wire going to the ecu, which is why i need an fsm, which ive been searching for for like 30 mins and i had to go.

[smurf13]

ok i have a quick question about front camber adjustment, is there a way to adjust front camber without getting FLCA's? i know some company on ebay has a "camber kit" that allows adjustments from +2 to -2 supposedly for $20 but something tells me that wont work. Do i have to get upper pillow ball mounts?

thanks

[adrianfromthecastle]

Do i have to get upper pillow ball mounts?

camber plates? yes. they come stock with coilovers.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yes yes yes i kno all this. The gear sensor plugs are pulled, the two middle clips that r on the transmission. I just need to find the wire going to the ecu, which is why i need an fsm, which ive been searching for for like 30 mins and i had to go.

http://www.240edge.com/manuals/usdm-cars.html

less than 1 minute of searching.

[Frostfang]

One of my friends ordered me an intake for my 96, but the one he ordered says it will only fit a 97-98, any way I could make this fit when it arrives, or should I just send it back?