lol, it's my headache now. I'm sending out the money for a new CA harness tomorrow. And if I don't have to pick up my girl from the beach, I can send out the money for a new KA harness and a body harness. I'm sending the wiring off to Carl to be wired up correctly. I don't mind paying someone to have it done right. And if you'll notice, there are no more engine wires in pic #3 of the work I've done. Other than the coil packs. Those are good.ca18detgabby wrote:looks like you bought yourself someone elses headaches. for 800 bucks I hope the issues arent rediculous, never know what you get when you buy something like that.
looks like it could be fun. CA S14s are always a bit odd to me, think I would look into a mega squirt setup ASAP. only way to konw the harness was done right is to dump the old mess and start over.
wouldnt want a bad ground or something turning the flat black paint into extra crispy craptastic paint.
GL
So far as I know, it's an Alabama car lol. I have no idea where the guy before me got it. But, it's not a big concern for me anyways. Oh and did you get my email? If not, just get back to me when you can. I'm shooting for mid August to get this bish to start.r34 gtr wrote:Its an Alabama car, it doesn't even know what rust is.
On a different note, looking good!
lol all the bonus money I'll be recieving. It'll help me fix it up.float_6969 wrote:What? That didn't make any sense.
On a side note, I started mine up for the first time in almost 2 years today.
Oh, well heck then. I was just trying to find a way to get the fuel rail out and it was in the way. I've got the screws and know which way it goes on, so it's not that big a deal, I'm assuming.boost_boy wrote:That spring you're referring to did not come out of your fuel rail . That spring came out of the idle control motor you took off and it would be very wise to put it back together properly. Why did you take it off anyway? If you're trying to pull your fuel rail, you were supposed to remove the three 10mm bolts that hold that IACV section to the intake manifold . Good luck with that mess as you're going about the very hard/complicated way.
Dee
Dealing with the fuel rail and all the stock nissan IACV components is a well documented mess. Don't worry, it gets more interesting as you go on.southernsteel wrote:
Oh, well heck then. I was just trying to find a way to get the fuel rail out and it was in the way. I've got the screws and know which way it goes on, so it's not that big a deal, I'm assuming.
And what mess are you referring to? The fuel rail or is there something else?
Just keep us posted and ask questions before you start removing stuff unnecessarily.southernsteel wrote:Thanks for the encouragement
Are there any other areas I need to watch for when trying to make this thing run?
There's no step by stepbecause each car has something unique about the way the owners set-up their fueling components. The proper way is to remove the fuel pump fuse, crank the car and run all the fuel out of the fuelrail, remove all sensor connectors, hoses and anything else that would restrict you from getting better access. Next, you want to remove the IACV cluster which is held to the intake via x3 long 10mm bolts,remove the 12mm bolts that secure the rail to the intake manifold and don't forget to remove the 14mm nut that secures the rail just behined the #4 injector. If this doesn't get it off, you'll eventually figure it out.southernsteel wrote:Well is there a step-by-step process on how to remove the fuel rail? I remember seeing a couple of threads talking about removing it, but I don't think a step-by-step process.
And some people may think that you shouldn't need a step-by-step to remove something like a fuel rail. And that's fine. But to someone who is brand new, like myself, it certainly helps.
float_6969 wrote:Sawsall.