I figure a formal introduction is in order..

[r34 gtr]

Step 1: Locate pin for main power on ECU plug.

Step 2: Get out FSM

Step 3: Find switched 12v power

Step 4: Attach in-line fuse to wire, and connect to pin on ECU plug

Step 5: Profit

Also, for the fuel pump, I hear running it straight off the battery makes for less sporadic fuel pressure, as it is a much more constant voltage than the alternator. You'll want to wire it properly though, or it will stay on all the time. Gotta use a switched 12v to tell it when to come on.

[southernsteel]

I've been able to get the ECU to power on. fuel pump relay clicks when I turn the key. Pump still does not prime. I tried to jump the relay and the pump still won't prime. I'm thinking it's the pump. Anyway to unseize it?

[southernsteel]

okay. ECU gets power. Hazards work, brake lights work but tail lights don't (wtf?) turn signals still don;t work. Getting power to the fuel pump relay confirmed by a multi meter. Reading 6.xxx I'm assuming that's low?

Tried to check the fuel pump power plug and got nothing. What in the world is going on?

[r34 gtr]

Good lord man that sounds rough. Just a thought, how much more difficult (if at all?) would it have been to just rip out everything wiring-related, and then run your own custom harness?

6.xxx is about half of what you need. I would think there is a short or loose connection somewhere. Something makes me doubt that Nissan would have designed the S14 to run on 6v electrics...

[southernsteel]

okay. So a short recap of what I have done to the car:

-Stripped the interior (I'm slowly putting it back together)-Pulled every wiring harness from under the dash forward-Replaced every harness pulled-EFI harness was wired up by Carl-New from nissan lower harness installed-New adjustable fpr-new inline fuel pressure gauge-found the correct ecu And I am now a fueling and ignition issue. I'm doing the fuel issue first because I would at least like to hear the car run. Is that so crazy?

I was getting the 6.xxx reading on an old, dead battery and I figured that was the problem. I pulled the sentra up to the 240, hooked up jumper cables and started taking readings. Fuel pump relay is at 12. Good. put the meter ends into the plug at the fuel pump. Nothing. Oops, I forgot to turn the key. Turn the key, I get a solid 13 while the relay is active. So it's the pump.

Before I go and drop a bill on a new pump, however, I'm going to test it on a friend's s14. When it leaves the body shop. The reason I want to test is because the pump made a sound like it wanted to prime while I had it sitting where the rear seats should be. So before I call it D-E-D dead, I want to be 100 percent and be sure that I don't have a short in my system.

My problems currently are:brake lights, but no tail lightsno turn signals, but hazardsdrivers window works, passenger side does notno fuel pressureno ignition from key

So that's where I stand right now. After a while, I'd like to get somebody over here who knows half a thing about wiring to help me with all of my plugs so I know which ones I can tape up.

[Drift-wood]

+1 for CA S14 That's my route lol....

[southernsteel]

Have fun. It's definitely been a nightmare.

[southernsteel]

Going to the junkyard. Anything I should be on the lookout for?

[Kaforlife]

Did you find out anything new about why your fuel pump is not turning on?

[southernsteel]

Not yet. I'm thinking it's just plain dead. I'm getting power to the relay and getting power to the plug. When I pulled the pump I think it made one final attempt to prime before it really kicked the bucket. Sounded awful.

[sean@z1]

time for a new pump

[southernsteel]

I'll be talking to you soon, sean. Lol. You gotta beat injected though.

Buddy's S14 is out of the shop. I'll be checking my fuel pump later this week. Probably after xmas.
Modified by southernsteel at 1:14 AM 12/23/2009

[southernsteel]

It's official. Fuel pump is dead.

Buuuuuuuuut, something else is wrong. I checked my stalk on my friends. Everything with the stalk checks out on his car. He gets tail lights, turn signals and hi and low beams. What could be the problem in my car? Fuses maybe? I checked them and they look good, but you never know, I guess.

[southernsteel]

Any ideas on my light issues?

And fuel pump will be here tomorrow, according to Fedex. So I'm going to try to start tomorrow or Wednesday.

Fuel pump is here. Going to solder everything up, heat shrink the solder and get this thing started this week.
Modified by southernsteel at 1:38 PM 1/6/2010

[southernsteel]

so I'm being really lazy right now.

Actually, I got my fuel pump installed today. Only I forgot to put the clamps on and haven't gotten around to pulling it to put them on. I tried to charge the fuel system, only to blow the fuel rail line. I went and bought clamps and gave up due to frustration of not being able to tighten the clamps.

Oh and I came into my room looking for the loc-tite for my fuel pressure gauge and got distracted on here. Friend of mine is coming over and I'm hoping to start the car tonight. Seeing as how I'm getting fuel to the motor

[southernsteel]

Definitely didn't start the car tonight. I never could find my loctite, so fuel was leaking from the fuel pressure gauge. And seeing as how the car has to jumped off the starter, that wasn't a good idea. Soon as I find my loctite and cleanup the engine bay a little, I'll attempt again.

But I do know my fuel system is solid. Fuel pressure was a little sporadic with the battery being so dead. Spiked to 100 and dropped and everything held, so that's awesome. I think.

[southernsteel]

Did I kill my regulator?

Once I sealed up the fuel system and prime it, pressure eased on up and stayed at over 100 psi. I try to lower it but fuel comes out of the regulator when I hit about 80 psi. Is is excess pressure coming off or did I blow a seal? It doesn't leak when I turn the adjustment bolt back in and increase the pressure.

[float_6969]

It sounds like you hooked up the lines backwards. Check the FPR sticky and look for meangreens post. He's got a diagram in there.

If that checks out, remove the fuel line from where it goes back to the tank (after the FPR) and route it into a bucket/gas can. Turn on the key and see what happens. If the pressure goes down, something is plugged up in the return line.

Is the FPR bent/smashed? That can cause these symptoms as well.

[southernsteel]

Lines are hooked up correctly. Regulator hasn't been bent or smashed in any way since I got it.

I'll have to check out the bucket thing this weekend.

I'll also say this. I thought turning the bolt in was down, so I went ahead and adjusted it down before I installed. Me and a friend were trying to adjust the pressure while it was leaking out of the gauge. After I sealed up the gauge, the system does hold steady. I did install my regulator upside down (I'm hoping that is seriously not the difference) because I couldn't clear the hard line on the back of the motor and I've got the fuel line in a big loop without any kinks. It's the right size as well.

I think before I do the bucket method, what I'll do is just unhook the lines and let the fuel drain out, reset my regulator back to the way it was and try to set the pressure. If the regulator is still leaking, then I blew something, right?

[southernsteel]

Okay. I'm getting upset with this motor.

I was able to lower the pressure, but now it won't increase. It's sitting at a steady 25 now. I also have no spark. I have an ignitor and all my relays are in place. What the hell is up?

[float_6969]

The Matrix did it....

[southernsteel]

Anything other than the matrix?

[southernsteel]

Not getting power to my coil packs. So my question is, how does the ignitor ground? Do I attach it to metal or is there a wire that runs in the harness that I ground on the intake manifold?

[float_6969]

The power for the coil packs comes from the ignition coil relay, not the ignitor. Look at EF & EC Page 8.

[southernsteel]

So, it's been a while. I just graduated from basic training about three weeks ago and am currently in Texas. I haven't forgotten about this little headache either. I just bought an entire interior harness from the dash back to the tail lights. I'm thinking that should solve a lot of my issues with the wiring as it all came from one car. As it sat when I left for basic, I was getting fuel pressure but no power to the coil packs, therefore, no spark. I was also still having issues with the lights. I was getting hazards but no turn signals and brake lights but no tail lights. Oh and the windows stopped working The ECU light was coming on and it was red, whatever that means. Motor will not attempt to turn from the ignition, it has to be jumped off the starter.

I won't be back to Alabama until November or so but I'll be there for one weekend on a pass for the fourth of July weekend. If anybody has any free time you can always help me out

[Apex]

I am the original owner of this CA'd S14. It is mine again. I traded my freshly rebuilt KA S13 to SouthernSteel so I could have this back. This will not whoop me.

[float_6969]

Glad to see this started back up again. It's lonely being one of the only (if not THE only) running CAS14's on NICO!

[Apex]

Got the engine to turn over today. Needs a new battery real bad. Pickin' that up tomorrow and hittin' the local pull a part. They just got a zenki in.

Thanks for the CA love, float.

[Apex]

Engine is turning over great. Number one has spark. I didn't check 2, 3 or 4 yet. When i turn the key on, the fuel pump cuts on and the fuel pressure gauge reads about 20psi. When it cuts off, the pressure suddenly drops to 0. Think that there is a check valve there somewhere. Checking that.

[float_6969]

Ur fuel pressure is super low. It's supposed to be approx 36psi with the pump on and the engine off. Either the FPR is bad, or the fuel pump is bad. Seeing as how it's going to zero after you turn the key off, I'm inclined to think the FPR is bad. The check valve is there just to keep the fuel pressure up between starts so that the motor can start faster if it's only been off for a few min. Other than that, it does nothing.