Hijacker's Money-Ain't-No-Thing Build

[VStar650CL]

LOL At least I wasn't using s*** like wire nuts which I've seen way too many times working on other cars

Oh, you'd be freakin' amazed at some of the "nut jobs" we see from Harry Backyard, and also from some garage mechanics and accessory installers who really oughtta know better. But I think this one is my all time favorite. Not a nut job, but definitely a blue light special in the Harry Overlooking The Obvious department:
and-the-problem-is-t633576.html

[Hijacker]

LOL At least I wasn't using s*** like wire nuts which I've seen way too many times working on other cars

Oh, you'd be freakin' amazed at some of the "nut jobs" we see from Harry Backyard, and also from some garage mechanics and accessory installers who really oughtta know better. But I think this one is my all time favorite. Not a nut job, but definitely a blue light special in the Harry Overlooking The Obvious department:
and-the-problem-is-t633576.html

Big oof. "wHy WoN'T tHe ElEcTrOnIcS wOrK??"

[PapaSmurf2k3]

-Don't mind the lack of a dust shield. I pulled a Papa Smurf and forgot to put it on before the flywheel.

Welcome to the club, hombre!
I was threading in transmission bolts when I realized I was missing mine

[Hijacker]

-Don't mind the lack of a dust shield. I pulled a Papa Smurf and forgot to put it on before the flywheel.

Welcome to the club, hombre!
I was threading in transmission bolts when I realized I was missing mine

The worst time to realize!




-I got the last of the wiring work done on the engine harnesses. All of the Defi and Apexi addons are now in the harnesses and running through connectors to the main harness. The HEL filter block has two 1/8 NPT ports, so I'm running both factory pressure switch and the Defi pressure sensor from there


-And with the wiring work done, I went ahead and dropped the motor into the car. It's been a long while since I've done hard rubber mounts, so I forgot how much of a bear they can be. But after much wrestling, the motor finally went in place. I'll do some buttoning up tomorrow and start getting the intercooler installed so I can mock up the hotpipe and intake pipe for modification. I'll also spend some time on the body harness to finish getting it ready for the WS harness and the Defi gauges

[VStar650CL]

The Widget Man PWM generator was installed in an IP65 sealed project box that I used a Molex MX150 sealed connector to pass through the wiring. I took inspo from Volvo guy that VStar linked as I want to be able to make changes to the DIP switches in the future. I would have loved to have used a Yazaki or Sumitomo style connector to make it look factory, but the Molex will just have to be a "modern" equivalent. The stabs on the PWM board are the perfect size to accept the same Yazaki connectors Nissan used for relays and big fuses in the fuse box.

Those DIP's are definitely set wrong for your app. S1 needs to be off (the test showed your fan is positive PWM) and for SSR mode, S2-S3-S4 should all be on. That fan was fairly loud, so if you're using the Force pin for AC then S5 should probably be on (+50% mode instead of full speed). S6 should be fine off and S7 you won't need. Then just program the temps once you get her running.

Regarding the temps, because of the way the algorithm works, the FPM will always try to keep the engine at the turn-on temperature, so you should usually set Green at whatever temp you want the engine to maintain. How high you should set Red is a judgment call, a lot depends on how efficient the fan and cooling loop are for the amount of cooling the engine needs. The tighter the Green->Red window, the more aggressively the fan will react to temperature rise. Most people start at about 10F differential, but if you set a tight window and the temp still rises above Green under load, it means your fan or cooling loop are undersized for the engine and you need to lower Green. That will result in running a bit cold at light loads, but there's no good fix for it besides improving the loop or getting a better fan. If your loop is sufficient and the window is set right, your gauge should behave just like Dave's Volvo, it should lock in and never move regardless of speed or load.

[IanS]

-And with the wiring work done, I went ahead and dropped the motor into the car. It's been a long while since I've done hard rubber mounts, so I forgot how much of a bear they can be. But after much wrestling, the motor finally went in place. I'll do some buttoning up tomorrow and start getting the intercooler installed so I can mock up the hotpipe and intake pipe for modification. I'll also spend some time on the body harness to finish getting it ready for the WS harness and the Defi gauges

Even if it's just a "dry fit" it's still got to feel good to have the final engine in its home.

[Hijacker]

Those DIP's are definitely set wrong for your app. S1 needs to be off (the test showed your fan is positive PWM) and for SSR mode, S2-S3-S4 should all be on. That fan was fairly loud, so if you're using the Force pin for AC then S5 should probably be on (+50% mode instead of full speed). S6 should be fine off and S7 you won't need. Then just program the temps once you get her running.

Regarding the temps, because of the way the algorithm works, the FPM will always try to keep the engine at the turn-on temperature, so you should usually set Green at whatever temp you want the engine to maintain. How high you should set Red is a judgment call, a lot depends on how efficient the fan and cooling loop are for the amount of cooling the engine needs. The tighter the Green->Red window, the more aggressively the fan will react to temperature rise. Most people start at about 10F differential, but if you set a tight window and the temp still rises above Green under load, it means your fan or cooling loop are undersized for the engine and you need to lower Green. That will result in running a bit cold at light loads, but there's no good fix for it besides improving the loop or getting a better fan. If your loop is sufficient and the window is set right, your gauge should behave just like Dave's Volvo, it should lock in and never move regardless of speed or load.

I know you keep saying to set it up as an SSR, however, this fan controller doesn't act like an SSR. It's the same controller as what's used on Ford Fusions, which are also brushed fans using the same Bosch controller (I have a 2G Fusion and confirmed this is the same with 1G Fusions as well). The provided documentation has specific settings for Fusions so I will be running that to start with. If it doesn't work, then I'll change settings around. The SSR setup listed in the documentation has max% set at 98% which with my style of controller has tested to turn off. Also, in all of my testing, I was using the PWM - output, so assume the duty cycle is inverted compared to what was being displayed on the generator.

Even if it's just a "dry fit" it's still got to feel good to have the final engine in its home.

It feels great, even if bittersweet because I loved the old engine. I'm hoping to find it a good home that will bring many smiles to someone's face




-Today's work was sporadic, but I was able to the PBM HMIC installed. I didn't want to cut the upper core support to tuck it as high as PBM wanted it, so went as high as I could and drilled new holes for the brackets. I was under the impression that I would need to cut the headlight brackets to make it fit like this, but it fits fine with no alterations to the brackets


-I also got the new Silvia headlight brackets out and installed them. The old rusty ones will get cleaned up and kept as spares


-For s*** and giggles, I had to compare the old Precision Turbo IC. It's comically smol


-I also fitted the new koyo and shroud. I'm not 100% happy with the bracketry. So I'll be making some changes to the designs and likely even looking into reprinting them in carbon fiber






-Since I had the front end tore down, I went ahead and dragged the Dorki Dori Ks Aero bumper out of storage and did a test fit. No brackets and it fits really well. Lennon told me he made the flanges thick to allow for custom shaving to get the fitment just perfect, but after this test fit, I don't know if I really need to do much shaving of the flanges to get it right. I may just need to drill the holes for the hardware and let it be. I've joked that to get a better bumper, you'd need to build a time machine and go back to the 90s and order one brand new from Nissan. This really proves it. It's a shame he doesn't make them anymore

[VStar650CL]

I know you keep saying to set it up as an SSR, however, this fan controller doesn't act like an SSR. It's the same controller as what's used on Ford Fusions, which are also brushed fans using the same Bosch controller (I have a 2G Fusion and confirmed this is the same with 1G Fusions as well). The provided documentation has specific settings for Fusions so I will be running that to start with. If it doesn't work, then I'll change settings around. The SSR setup listed in the documentation has max% set at 98% which with my style of controller has tested to turn off. Also, in all of my testing, I was using the PWM - output, so assume the duty cycle is inverted compared to what was being displayed on the generator.

Ah, okay, I was going by what was displayed in your vid. The testers we have in the lab (both the knobby and the one that's like yours but different-colored) only have one PWM output which is positive, so you need to complement the displayed number for negative. I was concerned about you getting a "creep" signal with the fan idle, but if it dies at 98% on the high end then you're right, either the Fusion or C6 Vette setting should be the best fit. S1 polarity is an "on the fly" change anyway, so if it's backward you can invert it without even powering down.

Damn, that sure is a pretty engine!

[Hijacker]

Got some more work done. EFI harness was installed and the Power FC was plugged in and powered on






-I'll install the Wite module once I get everything up and running. I wish the commander's plug was on the top side of the ECU when installed. Having it on the bottom is severely hampering how I can position the thing. But the trim panel fits over all of this, so I'm happy right now. I think I'll put the Wite unit where the old cruise control module went behind the ECU

Next I tested the Defi Advance control unit and ran into some "interesting" behavior



I had sourced power from the radio sub harness since it had a switched ignition source (ACC) constant, illumination, and a ground. Defi says to use IGN only and not ACC but for testing, 12V is 12V. So in ACC the gauges would act fine but once the car was turned to ON, they would enter into what I have dubbed "demo mode". They were cycling on, playing back some kind of recorded sweep, cycling off, and then repeating the whole thing.


-Then I noticed the problem. It's hard to tell in this image, but the red/white/black wires added to the EFI brown plug are for the Defi oil pressure sensor. I plan on running all of the sensors as integrated units to the body wiring to hide as much as possible. The brown plug is pretty loaded up but has a few empty spots I could use. The only thing I need to do is remove the PAIR Valve circuit and I have three terminals I can use for this sensor. I guess I had a dyslexia moment and wired the 5V power for the sensor to the 12V ECCS brown circuit on the body side of the plug. So when the car was turned to ON, that circuit was getting 12V and that was causing the Advance control unit to go into demo mode.


-A quick rewire later and adding in the rest of the wires for the sensor, it was fixed. I also did a final IGN ON power from the gauge cluster fused feed for the switched ignition source. If you use an ACC source, you end up with a double sweep because the gauges turn off briefly when starting the car.



For the time being, I installed the gauges using the cheap glowshift pod I bought. I still have plans this spring to make up a new A pillar trim pod to run these gauges with

The interior is tore apart right now, so I have a lot of work to do to get it all back together. I also pulled the accelerator pedal to repaint it and finally got around to swapping in the repainted brake pedal I did eons ago. I should probably pull the clutch pedal and give it the old paint job as well


-I also started on mocking up the hotpipe to get it working with the GTX turbo. The stock PBM setup is designed to work with the factory T25 or T28 which have the bolt on exits. So I used a 90° 2.5" coupler and bought a 2.5" pipe at 45° to act as an extension


-I also decided here is where I'll put the recirc valve, so I also bought some 1" aluminum pipes to cut down and weld to the hotpipe and intake pipe


-The hotpipe pieces were cut to length and test fitted. They're currently with a friend for welding

I also put a 3" 45° pipe in as the intake pipe which you can see below. It's a tight fit navigating the power steering reservoir. But I figured since the Z MAF is 3" and the turbo intake is 3", that a 3" pipe is the right call


-And here's an interesting thing for y'all. Wiring Specialties had installed a block connector that only allowed a single terminal connector for the green plug whereas mine has a two terminal connector. Thankfully, I had a spare that was in great shape to swap in. My original one was looking pretty beat up. I'm kind of curious where Yuri sources these since they seem very specific to Nissan

[Hijacker]

I don't feel like I got much done this weekend






-I spent some time getting the interior put back together. I had to replace the throttle cable due to it fraying by the throttle body. So while I had the throttle disassembled for the cable replacement, I decided to repaint the bracketry. Back when I put the new pedal pads on it, I had given it a spritz with some white rustoleum to protect the rod since that's all I had. I decided to give it the full treatment like I did the spare brake pedal. I also swapped in the replacement brake pedal so now I have matched pedals again

And speaking of throttle cable, the adapter bracket I bought was preventing the cable from reaching all the way. I'm more than a bit annoyed about this since it wasn't cheap. The bracket is designed in such a way that the cable is too far back to reach. I had my cable completely adjusted and it still couldn't let the throttle close. I swapped the old factory bracket back on and used a slotted washer for now to hold the cable in place


-You can clearly see that plane of the adapter bracket incorrectly places the throttle cable.


-I also got the Tomei O2 housing in place. I was worried it may contact the steering shaft since it's definitely thicker than the factory unit, but thankfully it has plenty of clearance

I also hooked up all of the sensors to do a check on the Power FC and ran into a small snag. The MAP sensor provided by Apexi for the boost controller doesn't read properly. It reads max boost at all times. I confirmed on the commander that I'm getting 5.04V from the sensor no matter what state it's in. I hooked up my MityVac vacuum pump and put it under a vacuum and saw no change in voltage. Bench testing it for resistance also showed no change in resistance value for the signal terminal. I've contacted Apexi, but I'm outside of the 90 day warranty period, so I doubt I'll have any luck in getting a replacement without having to pay for it. The Denso unit used is not cheap, so I'm more than a bit miffed about this

I also went to finish up the oil filter lines and realized I had ordered -6AN fittings when I needed -8AN fittings. So I had to order new ones, meaning I couldn't do even an oil priming start on the system. I had a bunch of plumbing parts come in today, but I'm also still waiting on the hotpipe and intake pipe I'm having welded, so they don't do me much good right now


-I keep telling myself that any progress is still forward progress. I'm trying to scrub down the engine bay as I go, so it's not looking nearly as dingy as it once did

I've got an Amayama order coming in this week to round off the cooling system (new lower hose and clamps are the big items from that order). I still need to make a bracket for the igniter and MAP sensors. I need to mount the boost control solenoid still, plumb the vacuum hoses, hook up the heater core, install the fan controller, get the turbo side plumbing installed, and install the Nismo exhaust. Once all of that's done, then I can fire her up. So hopefully another week maybe? I still need to finish fitting the bumper cover and reinstall the lights. I should probably do the Morimoto HIDs at some point, but I may wait until it's body shop time to do all of that

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Man I'm always worried when I f*** up some wiring (like you did) that I let the smoke out. Glad to see yours is still happy.
Also, +1 for Tomei fitment. I've been impressed with everything I've bought from them.

[Hijacker]

Man I'm always worried when I f*** up some wiring (like you did) that I let the smoke out. Glad to see yours is still happy.
Also, +1 for Tomei fitment. I've been impressed with everything I've bought from them.

Truth be told, I got damned lucky. Rectified step down voltage is likely what saved me. That would prevent the 7V difference in potential from back feeding the Advance control unit and letting the magic smoke out

I finished up the oil lines for the filter relocation and was able to prime the motor using the starter. She builds oil pressure and I'm inching closer to that first start

I have an issue with the Apex'i boost controller. The commander is reading max boost pressure no matter what. I've done some testing and I've isolated it down to a potential bad MAP sensor. I've already contacted Apex'i to see if there's any more tests I can run to isolate it to the MAP sensor or determine if it's a bad ECM. I can at least run the car without the PFC boost controller for the time being and rely on the mechanical wastegate actuator

[VStar650CL]

I've done some testing and I've isolated it down to a potential bad MAP sensor.

Lung pressure is more than sufficient to get a MAP sensor to move, see if you're getting a voltage change. Most pressure/vacuum sensors flatline at 0V when they fail, so you might not even need to apply lungs to see if it's bad.

[Hijacker]

I've done some testing and I've isolated it down to a potential bad MAP sensor.

Lung pressure is more than sufficient to get a MAP sensor to move, see if you're getting a voltage change. Most pressure/vacuum sensors flatline at 0V when they fail, so you might not even need to apply lungs to see if it's bad.

It's reading max boost on the commander. Voltage being returned is 5V. No amount of blowing or sucking will get the MAP to change reading. Harness is verified to have continuity with no shorts to each other and the readings go to 0.00V/--- mmHg when the MAP is removed (so no short to signal wire causing it). I bench tested the MAP with my MityVac vacuum bleeder and get no change in resistance across the power and signal terminals when applying vacuum. I contacted Apex'i to make sure there isn't something I've missed and then to initiate a warranty claim if I'm able to do so. I purchased the unit back in September, and Apex'i only offers a 90-day warranty. So I may be hosed

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Lung pressure is more than sufficient to get a MAP sensor to move, see if you're getting a voltage change. M

+1.
Also, I've always had issues with electronic boost controllers haha.

[Hijacker]

Lung pressure is more than sufficient to get a MAP sensor to move, see if you're getting a voltage change. M

+1.
Also, I've always had issues with electronic boost controllers haha.

My first foray into electronic control. The MAP is a Denso unit, which usually has a good reputation behind it. So naturally I'm miffed that it may have failed. Especially because the damn thing is expensive

[VStar650CL]

You have a Denso part number? Maybe I can pull up a datasheet and help you troubleshoot.

[Hijacker]

You have a Denso part number? Maybe I can pull up a datasheet and help you troubleshoot.

DPS-310-2000A or 949940-6270. I believe the first one is the Denso p/n.

[VStar650CL]

The DPS-310 in the part number is actually the chip Denso is using, it's an Infeon DPS310. If it's connected right then the data line should read 2.02V at atmosphere with a span between 0.5~4.5V. So if it's reading 5V then it's flatlined for sure.

[Hijacker]

Interesting. I saw those chips when researching, but assumed that it was coincidence since they seemed to be used for hobby setups and didn’t look like they were rated for harsh environment use like an engine bay

I’m keeping an eye on alternative MAP sensors in the event the Denso unit can’t be procured at a reasonable price. To use any other MAP, I would need to use FCEdit to change the constants used by the PFC to translate the voltage to a pressure reading

On a different note, I have the hotpipe back and test fitted. I need to make a small tweak to the recirc valve fitting on the intake pipe but otherwise it all came together well. I’ll have pics tomorrow

[VStar650CL]

Interesting. I saw those chips when researching, but assumed that it was coincidence since they seemed to be used for hobby setups and didn’t look like they were rated for harsh environment use like an engine bay

Oh, heck no, Infeon is one of the big dogs in the business. They're a little more approachable than some others (Panasonic and Hitachi won't even talk to you unless you want 100K of something), but they're definitely no hobby shop. I use a lot of their power discretes. I don't doubt that there's a teensy ASIC and support circuitry on the board with the Infeon chip and it's all potted and sealed

[VStar650CL]

For those interested, Infineon was a spinoff from Siemens about 25 years ago and their sensor division alone is about a $2B operation. You'll find their chips in a whole lot of Euro stuff. The reason @Hijacker probably thought it was a hobby item is because the Chinese and outfits like Sparkfun make hobby breakout boards for the DPS310, it's very popular. If you wanted to do DIY MAP/Baro on the cheap, one of these could certainly do the job with a little help from an Arduino or Pi:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4494

Oh, yah...
Nerds rule.

[Hijacker]

-After mocking everything up last week, my buddy was able to weld the hotpipe and intake pipe for me. He did a great job! I plan on having these powder coated in the long run, so I don't mind that the finish is all scuffed right now






-I ended up running a 60 degree silicone coupler off the turbo inlet to run the 3"/45 degree aluminum tube. It's a pretty good fit, although it's a tight window to get it past the power steering hoses. I had him weld a small 5/8" tube for the blowby hose and a 1" tube for the recirc valve


-The recirc valve will be mounted just under the hotpipe. I need to bend the inlet on the intake pipe to get the hose to line up perfect


-When I started this engine build, I was thinking I was going to end up with a lot of Tomei parts. And I ultimately did. But man do I have a lot of Apex parts now


-Almost there!


-I pulled the old BRM exhaust to make way for putting the Nismo exhaust on


-Subtle


-Not so subtle? I'm excited to hear how it sounds. I love the BRM's magnaflows but the few clips I've heard of the Nismo setup, it sounds pretty sweet. And with a bit of a lopey idle from the 260 cams, it'll sound *chef's kiss*

[PapaSmurf2k3]

What do you plan on doing for securing the wiring harness to the front of the engine?


I need to do something there as well. IIRC there's some christmas tree clips that engage some threaded holes in the front cover. I think mine are plugged with the corpses of old christmas tree clips haha.

[VStar650CL]

I think mine are plugged with the corpses of old christmas tree clips haha.

Drill, baby, drill.

(The dems are out, it's legal now)

[Hijacker]

What do you plan on doing for securing the wiring harness to the front of the engine?
I need to do something there as well. IIRC there's some christmas tree clips that engage some threaded holes in the front cover. I think mine are plugged with the corpses of old christmas tree clips haha.

I need to take away your access to the keyloggers on my computer. That's the only way you would know I was researching that this morning.

I haven't decided yet. I could always go the S13 SR route and put an angle bracket there that's bolted to the horizontal hole



There's the christmas tree push in you were talking about. That's also an option.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

In true "money ain't no thang" fashion, Bart booked me a plane ticket to come down and help out with this thing!
I'll see you Friday!

[Hijacker]

In true "money ain't no thang" fashion, Bart booked me a plane ticket to come down and help out with this thing!
I'll see you Friday!

Sometimes ya gotta call in the pro

[IanS]

In true "money ain't no thang" fashion, Bart booked me a plane ticket to come down and help out with this thing!
I'll see you Friday!

Ahh, now I feel left out.

I haven't decided yet. I could always go the S13 SR route and put an angle bracket there that's bolted to the horizontal hole

[img]<a class="vglnk" href="https://www.driftworks.com/forum/attach ... eg.315740/[/img" rel="nofollow"><span>https</span><span>://</span><span>www</span><span>.</span><span>driftworks</span><span>.</span><span>com</span><span>/</span><span>forum</span><span>/</span><span>attachments</span><span>/</span><span>5cb0d29f</span><span>-</span><span>f7f8</span><span>-</span><span>4f48</span><span>-</span><span>95e0</span><span>-</span><span>fe53c1c23984</span><span>-</span><span>jpeg</span><span>.</span><span>315740</span><span>/[/</span><span>img</span></a>]

There's the christmas tree push in you were talking about. That's also an option.

Stainless P clips work well if you size them correctly

[Hijacker]

Ahh, now I feel left out.

When I inevitably need moar help, I'll fly you out next time

So James got my s*** running right

Got the car running a few weeks ago. But she wasn't right. Idle was low and lumpy and I was having trouble diagnosing it. Ended up bumping injector duty cycles and started to get a more stable idle. The car ran fine, but just sitting around and idling was a nightmare. I was in a place I was okay with her and decided to go to the gas station and fill up a few gallons since the tank was down to about an 1/8th. After tossing about 6 gallons in, she wouldn't start. She was flooded pretty gnarly. I ended up towing her back to the house and got to diagnosing. The N62 MAF I had was an old one I bought from way back in 2010-ish. I had tested it on a friend's car back then and had left a note for future me that it ran right but idled rough. During early idle troubleshooting, I was getting a KOEO voltage of 300 mV but it was in range during actual operating idle. FSM says it should be 800 mV or higher during KOEO testing. Well....after the start failure, it was testing at 15 mV during KOEO

So I was getting some advice on the phone from James and he was like "yeah brah! I had to do this and that with Greg's SR when I flew out there" which lead me to ask "if I pay for your tickets, will you come help get this running?" Needless to say, he was enthusiastic about it

So James came in on Friday. We swapped the MAF out for my old S13 MAF. The kicker was that the S13 MAF I've been running since 2003 was actually a KA24E MAF. I made a hack harness to get it to plug into the Wiring Specialties jumper harness. But then we set the PFC to S14 Normal and after a bit of trying, she fired up. But back to the crappy idle. I broke out the laptop and installed the Wite module. Then we started doing some OTJ learning about which software to use

The Wite couldn't talk to the Apexi official software, so I landed on using CoPilot, which was made by the Toyota guys and thankfully supports the SR. James did his magic fingers on my ECU and eventually we got the idle running better. Saturday, we went out and picked up a flux core welder and he welded the wide band bung to my cat and we got the wideband hooked up and tried to interface it with the Wite. We couldn't quite get it to register the voltage values, so we ended up having James sit with a multimeter watching the signal voltage and comparing it to an excel spreadsheet of values I populated

So we had her running DECENT by Saturday night. We broke for beers and steaks

Sunday, I had the realization I was hooking the analog output of the wideband to a digital input on the Wite module. It takes two of the serial lines from the serial output of the LC-2 but I had no clue how to set up CoPilot to recognize it (I later got word from the only other person I know of that is running a Wite, PowerFC, and CoPilot that there's a secret special configuration setting to set that is kind of obtuse to get the digital input recognized). So I said f*** it, and jammed the analog output onto one of the analog inputs on the Wite and just defined that terminal in CoPilot to be a wideband. Badabing, we were cooking with gas.

Now armed with actual wideband readings, we were able to get CoPilot set up better and James was able to get the fuel map working better and the car was running well enough, idling perfect, and most importantly, it could start multiple times. It starts easier when cold, but if you give it some throttle, she'll start after warm up. The cool thing with CoPilot is it has some auto tune learning modes that can help you come up with a good injection and timing maps once you have a wideband plugged in. It's not meant to replace real tuning, but it sure helped level out the pig richness.

I need to get some header wrap. That b**** gets hot and is heating up the engine bay like no tomorrow. I've got some Tomei wrap on order. I'm also going to put in a heat shield for the BMC so I don't cook it. Last will be to make a spacer for the downpipe. The turbo sits a bit higher than it does in stock config, so the Greddy downpipe contacts the undercarriage. I think an additional 3 bolt flange between the turbo elbow and downpipe will space it enough to get it to clear the body. I also need to source a new N62 MAF to replace the busted one. We tore the old MAF apart hoping we could identify a popped capacitor or burned out trace and repair it, but it was super clean. I'm gonna chalk it up as a destroyed IC on one of the boards

Once all that's done, then I can get to breaking it in.

I absolutely love the Southbend Clutch. It's got some heft behind it, but I don't feel like I've skipped leg day on it. It has streetability, which is what I really wanted. The car has plenty of pep in its current config. It hits 0.5 BAR by 3500 RPM without even getting on the throttle

After break in, I need to find a dyno tuner who can do work on it. I have a bead on one that's fairly local, but I haven't had a chance to talk to him yet.

So all in all, James pulled my a** out of the fire on this and I owe him more beer. Not only did he help get my 240 running, he also got my wife's Isuzu running right