Hijacker's Money-Ain't-No-Thing Build

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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Posts: 19000
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Hijacker wrote:
Mon May 05, 2025 3:24 pm
CoPilot is it has some auto tune learning modes that can help you come up with a good injection and timing maps once you have a wideband plugged in. It's not meant to replace real tuning, but it sure helped level out the pig richness.

I did a lot of that too on our test drives. It was a funky tune where some parts needed to be a lot leaner and some needed to be a good bit richer, but mostly in the "normal driving" areas of the curve. I also re-wrote a lot of the parameters around auto-tune so it would do a better job of street tuning (like how long the delays are, how much to ignore, how much to correct, etc).

We also replaced the radiator shroud supports that you 3D printed! Fabbed some up out of steel.
Other discoveries
- Bart's voltage was dropping to 6 and change during cranking. Got a new battery.
- Looking at the WBO2 sensor clearance to the heat shield and complimenting on the impressive ground clearance of the downpipe, and then immediately noticing it was in direct contact with the body of the car.
- Extensive use of the words "bung" and "hand job" (referencing the in-car ECU controller)
- With broken radiator shroud supports, Bart's fans move enough air to suck the entire leaning assembly right up against the radiator.
- Something is making a horrid noise at startup... we're guessing piston slap or VVT shenanigans.


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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Tue May 06, 2025 2:56 pm
Hijacker wrote:
Mon May 05, 2025 3:24 pm
CoPilot is it has some auto tune learning modes that can help you come up with a good injection and timing maps once you have a wideband plugged in. It's not meant to replace real tuning, but it sure helped level out the pig richness.

I did a lot of that too on our test drives. It was a funky tune where some parts needed to be a lot leaner and some needed to be a good bit richer, but mostly in the "normal driving" areas of the curve. I also re-wrote a lot of the parameters around auto-tune so it would do a better job of street tuning (like how long the delays are, how much to ignore, how much to correct, etc).

We also replaced the radiator shroud supports that you 3D printed! Fabbed some up out of steel.
Other discoveries
- Bart's voltage was dropping to 6 and change during cranking. Got a new battery.
- Looking at the WBO2 sensor clearance to the heat shield and complimenting on the impressive ground clearance of the downpipe, and then immediately noticing it was in direct contact with the body of the car.
- Extensive use of the words "bung" and "hand job" (referencing the in-car ECU controller)
- With broken radiator shroud supports, Bart's fans move enough air to suck the entire leaning assembly right up against the radiator.
- Something is making a horrid noise at startup... we're guessing piston slap or VVT shenanigans.
Pretty sure what we're hearing is the VTC gear. Unknown condition of the motor prior to me owning it, so I'm not surprised. I'll find a replacement. I think mine isn't quite to the death rattle stage just yet, but it's definitely in the ready to chew itself up stage



https://teamredstage.wordpress.com/2013 ... rol-n-vtc/

This page does a decent dive into the guts of the phaser

Now, the Z guys are lucky because someone came up with a fix for their rattle

https://bde-performance.com/vtc.htm
https://aus300zx.com/index.php?threads/ ... rs.286853/

I'm honestly half tempted to call these guys up and be like "yo. The SR needs some lovin too"

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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Quick update

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-The Innovate LC-2 wideband prior to install. James BUNGED my cat and we ran the cable in through the AC drain grommet since I don't have AC. When I clean up wiring, I'll install this either in the glovebox or behind it

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-Maybe this will help someone out in the future. I spent a while looking for these wire ties, so I'm glad to share the part numbers in case someone else is looking for them. They're the small ones that Nissan used where the zip tie goes through the clip and not perpendicular above the clip

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-James suggested I run Tomei header wrap. I was too lazy to remove the manifold to do this, so I enlisted my wife, Marenta, to come and help wrap it. She da real MVP here. I still need to space the downpipe to get some floor board clearance and then also wrap the downpipe as well

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-I also cleaned up the Nismo exhaust


-And last but not least, here's a quick cold start of the motor after James got me sorted. She idles nice and I like the muted sound of the Nismo. I was expecting it to be a lot louder than it is since it's a straight through

It needs to be driven still to get the PFC and CoPilot some time to settle the fuel map. That'll happen after I get the downpipe off the floorboard

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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This weekend was doing some cleaning up on the project

One issue to clean up was clearance to the downpipe. The downpipe was pressed right up against the underbody of the car, so I dropped the downpipe to do two things: install a spacer between the downpipe and O2 housing to lower where it was contacting and then also wrap the pipe to give it some heat shielding to the bodywork.

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-I dropped the pipe, but I also compared it to my old Megan Racing unit and noted that it too also rubbed pretty bad. The MR pipe is the top one

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-The area of concern on the floor pan. I ended up taking a mallet and moving the floor a bit to add some clearance in addition to the spacer

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-I also wired in the LC-2 permanently and secured everything inside the glove box

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-Last thing is for the eventual bodywork session in the late summer/early fall. I need to fix some serious rust issues on my passenger side strut tower. I managed to find someone selling a pretty good donor piece

I took her out for another parts run and the clutch master decided it was time to give up the ghost. I'm ordering a rebuild kit for it as the leak seems pretty minor. If a rebuild doesn't take, I'll order a new Nabco unit

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-Overall, it's all looking pretty good! This part of the build is nearing the finish line. Soon, I can start to focus on body work and get all of the fun suspension stuff I've been squirreling away installed

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Posts: 19000
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Man - that header wrap came out great. Sucks you had to cover up those beautiful welds but oh well.
I'm curious to see how much the underhood temps improve.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Mon May 12, 2025 7:48 am
Man - that header wrap came out great. Sucks you had to cover up those beautiful welds but oh well.
I'm curious to see how much the underhood temps improve.
Slight improvement. I took her for a drive to set the header wrap on the downpipe and after getting back from the parts store but couldn't really tell much of a difference. The BMC is only getting up to around 60-70C, so that's DEFINITELY an improvement.

But then tragedy struck. The clutch pedal started getting soft on this particular drive. I pulled her into the garage and noted the clutch master was leaking. Hooray. That's only 30 years old. I decided to order a rebuild kit and get to work. I was unsure of exactly where the leak was coming from, but it appeared to be centralized around the screw on the bottom.

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-Old clutch master and the rebuild kit

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-The dust cover came off easily enough and then popping this spring clip out will allow the entire rod assembly to be removed

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-To get the piston assembly out, this screw needs to be removed. It's essentially a guide pin to keep the piston from moving too much

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-That seal has definitely seen better days

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-Assembly finished. The spring clip that holds the pedal rod in place is a bit of a pain since you're trying to balance a bunch of stuff at once. I put her back in the car and bled the system. Pedal feels great now, I just haven't had a chance to drive her around

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-I also picked up a circuit sports BMC heat shield. It's supposed to fit both S13s and S14s, but I'm not quite sure where it's supposed to bolt on S13s. If it's the two bolt holes closer to the middle of the strut tower, my Z32 BMC and ABS brake booster must be too long and prevent the shield from bolting there. Instead, I chose to drill a new hole and mount it behind the power steering reservoir

Hopefully this will help keep things a bit less toasty for the hydraulics

I haven't had much chance to drive it this past week. That'll change after the holiday weekend.

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PapaSmurf2k3
Site Admin
Posts: 19000
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:20 pm
Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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Hijacker wrote:
Fri May 23, 2025 5:00 am

-That seal has definitely seen better days

My thoughts exactly!


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