Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

[sickness14]

I have a full set of RB valve seals, NIB. Email me with an offer.

Sounds to me like the PO cracked the ringlands in cyl 6.

Thank you. I would like to get these from you, what do these go for? i have been unable to find them. I originally bought an engine gasket kit which came with them, but i used the valve seals on my original head and need more for my current head. I am at work right now and cannot email you from here. I'll send you a message later on tonight.

I also need to find valve guides. do you have these as well, or know where i can get oem neo valve guides?

-John

[sickness14]

to keep this thread entertaining... with pics of course... check out my new DD :P



91' mazda rx-7 vert, 99k mi, bbs wheels, 5 sp.

[sickness14]

here's the rest of the wiring harness, not done taping it up yet. i had to buy the blue loom from auto zone because i bought all the black loom a few days before lol... it will all be taped over anyway.

also got a small project box from radioshack with an aluminum cover that fits my relays and fuses perfectly! just have to remove the rest of the chasis harness from the SMJ connector and depin several wires for things i will not be using ( fogs, horn, rad fans, ect)

also had two new rear tires put on. the fronts will go on sometime.. not in a rush lol

[Carl H]

a quick response for your q's

1) install the walbro in the trash, i have no faith in them...and considering that you practically have to run 14v constant to them to get the touted 255lph rating its kind of a sham. the bosch 044 will have no problems keeping your engine supplied with fuel...i run one in my personal car. i have used walbro pumps in the past and have not been impressed.

2) if you can keep the car in a straight line over 450whp then possibly think of larger injectors, else 7xxish injectors will be fine for a while...much more and they'll max out the bosch 044.

3) upgrade springs, i still am using std retainers with my tomei springs...peace of mind with the springs. as far as the valve guides go can you get some dimentions of the valve stems?

[GTRs13]

When running a boosted car, you should have 14v to the pump regardless of what pump you favor.

I have used nothing but Wally's over a decade, and they do work. I have built quite a few rotated GT30/35R Subies, mostly making around 500 to the wheels all on Wallys.

The Gerotor design is much better then any plastic gear Densos or the like. To each his own.

Oh, and if that Rx-7 is your new daily, *Never do anything to it sans oil changes and it'll be fine. I'm sure you know about the rotary's "Reputation".

Keep it up!

[sickness14]

a quick response for your q's

1) install the walbro in the trash, i have no faith in them...and considering that you practically have to run 14v constant to them to get the touted 255lph rating its kind of a sham. the bosch 044 will have no problems keeping your engine supplied with fuel...i run one in my personal car. i have used walbro pumps in the past and have not been impressed.

2) if you can keep the car in a straight line over 450whp then possibly think of larger injectors, else 7xxish injectors will be fine for a while...much more and they'll max out the bosch 044.

3) upgrade springs, i still am using std retainers with my tomei springs...peace of mind with the springs. as far as the valve guides go can you get some dimentions of the valve stems?

Haha, install in the trash! thats classic. sounds like the 044 is the way to go. so do i need to just splice in a relay near the fuel pump hat in the trunk and wire the power lead fused directly to the battery mounted in the trunk?

Would 400whp be a decent power goal, taking into consideration traction issues and the drive-train? I think my plans for this car are a little out there. what injectors would a run for a safe ~400whp? ill probably stick with 760-800cc's for now if i dont have any objections. i found some Deatschwerks Fuel Injectors for the RB25 NEO for $639. Are they any good?

I believe the tomei valve springs actually come with ti retainers now, and they were priced around $500 last time i checked.

I'll have to check the diameter of the valves, i've got one sitting on my computer desk as a matter of fact. I do need an intake & exhaust set though. i just cant seem to find them ANYWHERE online.

Thanks Carl!

When running a boosted car, you should have 14v to the pump regardless of what pump you favor.

I have used nothing but Wally's over a decade, and they do work. I have built quite a few rotated GT30/35R Subies, mostly making around 500 to the wheels all on Wallys.

The Gerotor design is much better then any plastic gear Densos or the like. To each his own.

Oh, and if that Rx-7 is your new daily, *Never do anything to it sans oil changes and it'll be fine. I'm sure you know about the rotary's "Reputation".

Keep it up!

Does the bosch pump use a plastic gear? I'll probably end up putting in the 044 to be safe, as carl says.

as for the RX-7, its bone stock except for the two racing beat mufflers and a K&N drop in.

also need to know...

Can i eliminate the following from the fuse box relatively easily without any negative impact:

-clutch interlock relay


Modified by sickness14 at 11:20 AM 6/4/2009

[Carl H]

if you'd like your car to start anymore i'd leave that relay in place.

[S14-NEO]

or if wanted you could go with the Denso 280lph...its the ones in the supra...been working fine in my car for years....

[craz4240]

or if wanted you could go with the Denso 280lph...its the ones in the supra...been working fine in my car for years....

2JZ or 7M pump if you don't mind the jack.

[sickness14]

2JZ or 7M pump if you don't mind the jack.

I believe i have read somewhere that it is the 2JZ pump that puts out the higher-than-walbro output

[sickness14]

To everyone interested in doing a wiring project: such as fuse box relocation, and re-wiring, this is a great find and looks like it would make a great engine fuse box replacement with flying leads attached. It is from "Painless performance". check it out... part # is 50001.

specs:-8 circuit fuse center with each powered output relayed and fused-Wires are pnuematically terminated & pre-inserted into fuse block and relays Harness includes circuits for: Start, ignition, electric water pump, electric fan, electric fuel pump #1, electric fuel pump #2, lights, & accessories. Comes with 18 feet of wire per circuit, terminals, wire ties, fusible link, rubber grommet Circuits are prelabeled as previously described but can be used to power any 12 Volt electrical component.



Looks pretty bad a**, and plus the relays are internally attached to the fuses! no sloppy wiring jobs.

if you DID want to separately wire in relays, they also make this... part # 30108.



im seriously thinking about doing a re-wire of the chasis harness. the only reason being that i cant do much else while im strapped for cash, waiting to make enough money to buy my new engine rebuild parts. i dont really want to spend any money rewiring the fuse box, and it can be done with other parts for around $80. (including fuse panel, power dist, and using stock relays and sockets.)

just like on page 4 i believe, of this thread, at the link at the top of the page leading to zilvia. you can see the alternative method to using this "painless" wiring harness.

-later
Modified by sickness14 at 3:06 PM 6/5/2009

[sickness14]

i decided i wanted the fuse box inside the car. so i made it happen captain


Modified by sickness14 at 10:52 AM 8/15/2009

[sickness14]

Modified by sickness14 at 10:54 AM 8/15/2009

[Carl H]

looking good but be careful of the harnesses in the fender wells, i just had to repair a harness in the vh car cuz the tire rubbed thru it under heavy cornering.

[sickness14]

looking good but be careful of the harnesses in the fender wells, i just had to repair a harness in the vh car cuz the tire rubbed thru it under heavy cornering.

Carl, thanks for the concern. its roughly attached under the wheel well for now, i need to figure out how to safely secure it out of harms way. i need to get it up higher in the fender area, using some rubber insulated clamps (like the ones you would use for securing an- fuel lines under the car.

[sickness14]

-degreased and cleaned engine bay-re-routed chasis wiring harness-put on 350z track wheels with newly mounted BFG tires


Modified by sickness14 at 10:55 AM 8/15/2009

[sickness14]

hey guys,

i will be finishing up the engine bay chasis harness connections, re-install the headlights and then start on the dash side of the harness / fuse box.

what do you guys think

[S14-NEO]

a couple of things....first of all, im proud of you for going the extra mile to tidy things up in the engine bay . my only hope is you dont have any electrical hiccups due to the massive electrical mods you have been doing. and man if you ever sell this car for any reason..i pitty the fool who has to work on anything electrical...hehe...good work though..its looking pretty darn respectable.

[sickness14]

a couple of things....first of all, im proud of you for going the extra mile to tidy things up in the engine bay . my only hope is you dont have any electrical hiccups due to the massive electrical mods you have been doing. and man if you ever sell this car for any reason..i pitty the fool who has to work on anything electrical...hehe...good work though..its looking pretty darn respectable.

Thanks buddy

as promised...


Modified by sickness14 at 10:56 AM 8/15/2009

[meet07]

who did you pay to do the harness??

[sickness14]

who did you pay to do the harness??

HAHA. i hope your kidding. I did it all myself. well, let me restate that. Carl H did the S14 to RB mate, and i went back and relocated the fuse box, cleaned up a lot of unused wiring for things i deleted.

I've got a ton more pics coming up of my acrylic fuse panel holder and blue sea fuse blocks.

[Carl H]

wow, lots of work and effort there but it will look AWESOME when done.are you removing the SRS system and having the fuses come up where the passenger bag would be?

[sickness14]

wow, lots of work and effort there but it will look AWESOME when done.are you removing the SRS system and having the fuses come up where the passenger bag would be?

yessir. sure am. I just got the blue sea 12 circuit fuse panel and 4 post bar in the mail.

i will be working on it tonight so ill post up pics. i also re did the rear chasis harness, took out the factory amp wiring, rear defroster, and the trunk switch and light. since the alarm will be removed...




Modified by sickness14 at 10:58 AM 8/15/2009

[sickness14]

UP-DATE!



An RB powered S14 of course!

lol


Modified by sickness14 at 11:00 AM 8/15/2009

[Cjmartz2k]

K, you're SO helping me do my wiring Looks awesome man. KDW's look menacing too.

[sickness14]

Modified by sickness14 at 9:38 PM 6/17/2009

[sickness14]

Chris,

I'll try and help any way i can man! i spent hours reading the wiring diagrams and i can almost recite them by memory... jk

update though...



oh yeah. and pics of the melted piston


Modified by sickness14 at 11:02 AM 8/15/2009

[Carl H]

better man than i for taking the time and relocating the fusebox...course much easier engine out of car and if you dont want the srs system lol.piston doesnt look too terribly bad but at the same time doesnt look good.looks much better than my neo friends pistons do as it has detonation erosion on 5 of the 6 pistons and one you can see the rings!

[mott6904]

I would check your piston to deck height when you get the block back together. It looks like it was squeezed to tight and the valves were hitting the piston? If those are not machine marks in the piston that could have been your noise also.

[Shocker]

Pistons definitally look like they were just nipping the valves, thats nooo good. Your CR might have been a lot higher than you thought thus resulting in such destruction due to detonation/lean condition. Are you sure the physical timing was spot on with all the marks?

How many times has your block been shaved?