Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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sickness14
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Car: 95' S14 SE. RB25 Neo. ARP, Tomei 260's, HX40 Pro, PFC, Synapse, Greddy
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S14-NEO wrote:hey John , did you ever get a chance to masure those liftser in your NEO head yet? if so i sure would love to get those measurements if at all possible.
I have not yet taken any measurements of the lifters, if i had a way to measure them id do it for you. any ideas?

-John


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S14-NEO
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx RB25 NEO powered

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take one to an auto parts store and measure it with a dial caliper...i need the O.D, height, of the lifter bucket, and then i want the O.D. of the lifter shim that sits inside the lifter bucket...i wont need the thickness of the shim cause there are a bunch of different sizes.

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sickness14
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Car: 95' S14 SE. RB25 Neo. ARP, Tomei 260's, HX40 Pro, PFC, Synapse, Greddy
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I've gotten most of the wiring done except for a few grounds that still need to be connected. Also, need to run the wire into the engine bay for the starter and alt, and then connect it to the power wire i have ran from the fuse box in the airbag location. all fuel pump wiring, relays, and fan wiring has been done.

still need to mount fan temp controller and attach ground wire to it, which will ground both fan relays and turn on fans.

The HVAC box is on, along with the condenser box and blower fan. The dash vents are being installed today and hopefully the dash will go back on. I think ill run the RCA's for the amp behind the dash before i throw that back on as well.

Then... ill order the carpet, put that down. im also going to re-upholster the headliner with black micro-suede and the door cards too. only reason being that my friend already has some suede material!

I asked the machine shop to get me a quote on rebuilding the long block and im waiting to hear back.

Anyone have any opinions on what pistons to put back in it ? Like CP vs Wiesco? I think ill end up getting the 87mm CP RB26 pistons to put in there.

anyone have a head gasket for sale again? lol the one i just bought, ill have to replace fail.

ill post pics later !

-John

Sil240
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Why don't you just get a whole gasket set.It might be a little more, but you'll get every gasket and seal for the engine.

Darius
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Isn't this an RB25? Why do you want to put RB26 slugs in it? CP and Wiseco are both reputable. I went with CP because I got a good deal on a set.

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sickness14
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Darius wrote:Isn't this an RB25? Why do you want to put RB26 slugs in it? CP and Wiseco are both reputable. I went with CP because I got a good deal on a set.
It is an RB25, but has an RB26 crank and rods, therefore the rotating assembly is that of an RB26. It has been bored .20 over already. going another .20 over for a total of .40 over with an 87mm piston on this build.
sil240 wrote:Why don't you just get a whole gasket set.It might be a little more, but you'll get every gasket and seal for the engine.
I would probably do that except for the fact that it comes with a LOT of stuff i dont need, even though a few of the pieces of that kit are hard to find like valve seals. I dont need the plenum gaskets, or the head gasket from the OEM kit.

Anyone know where i can get OEM valve guides from? im still not finding them anywhere. might have to talk to Ricky from Raw brokerage.

Thanks! PS: the dash is back on and it looks beautiful. Cant wait to get my carpet one day and finish off the interior. just need a few more 0/1 gauge components like an ANL fuse holder and also a distribution block that has a 0/1 ga in and a 0/1 ga out along with a 4 ga out.

Later.

l0nestar
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sickeness14 wrote:PS: the dash is back on and it looks beautiful. Cant wait to get my carpet one day and finish off the interior. just need a few more 0/1 gauge components like an ANL fuse holder and also a distribution block that has a 0/1 ga in and a 0/1 ga out along with a 4 ga out.
Check out http://www.ronfrancis.com/ for wiring parts. I wish I had thought of that about 2 years ago. They have a lot of good wiring tips, and products, as well as remote hot-lugs.

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sickness14
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l0nestar wrote:
Check out http://www.ronfrancis.com/ for wiring parts. I wish I had thought of that about 2 years ago. They have a lot of good wiring tips, and products, as well as remote hot-lugs.
Thanks! great resource. I keep forgetting to take pictures of the progress...

l0nestar
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sickness14 wrote:
Thanks! great resource. I keep forgetting to take pictures of the progress...
Slacker. like I have room to talk!

l0nestar
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Sweet!
l0nestar wrote:
Slacker. like I have room to talk!
BTW, I sent my dad a link to this thread, he was impressed.

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sickness14
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Heres another update. got the dash back in, almost done with the wiring. just have to get a few more parts and ill run a post on the firewall to connect the starter and alt. to on one side, and the fuse box and batt on the other.

Also removed clutch damper, for those of you who know what that is. its in the last few pics.

The second set of pics.... I found a wrecked 98 S14 with 29k miles on ebay from this company in florida called "Carisma" and picked up the cabin carpet, all the interior panels and carpet for the trunk / gas tank area with clips and everthing!!!

Check it.



CARPET


Modified by sickness14 at 10:30 AM 8/15/2009

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sickness14
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S14-NEO
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man im startiing to think you forgot about that one little thing i asked you to do for me with regard to the lifter shim.....if at alll possible i would appreciate you looking at that for me.

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sickness14
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S14-NEO wrote:man im startiing to think you forgot about that one little thing i asked you to do for me with regard to the lifter shim.....if at alll possible i would appreciate you looking at that for me.
oh crap sorry dude i did forget! you want the height of the shim, width of the shim, height of lifter bucket, width of lifter bucket?

-John

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sickness14
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Hey guys, i got a new battery and hooked it up to see how everything i re-wired works.good news and bad news...

The bad:

-ECU does not power on (power FC controller does not power on but i can hear the relay for ecu clicking. its got power going to the ECU but i cant tell what the problem is)

-Turn signals do not work (but the hazard lights work. WTF?)

-A/C blower does not switch vent positions. stuck blowing out of defroster dash vents. (not sure what this problem could be)

the good:-everthing else works! lol.

I guess ill have to start troubleshooting. Does the ECU power up without the engine sensors connected? it powered on the last time i had the motor out without any sensors hooked up. any ideas? thanks guys

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Carl H
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if the efi harness is not grounded it will not power up or will not power up correctly.time to go back and check all of your connections.

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sickness14
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Carl H wrote:if the efi harness is not grounded it will not power up or will not power up correctly.time to go back and check all of your connections.
So the EFI harness is basically all gounded at the passenger side footwell and on the intake manifold for the sensors, correct?

I have to look further into the pin out on the back of the ECU. I have to see if the ECU is still good... :0 Ill test the power right up to the wiring on the back side of the plug of the ECU and see what i find.

Can the turn signals stop working and the flashers continue to work due to a common problem? im sure i plugged in the multi function switch, because the headlights work. Isnt it the same relay for the flashers and the blinkers? weird.

I cant wait to get all the bugs worked out. Its killing me!

(Self bump... 9 pages )

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Carl H
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its been a while since i've seen your harness but it may be one of the older variants with an external ground...if thats the case there is a ground near the ecu but the main grounds are the ones on the intake manifold.try grounding those and see if that works.

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sickness14
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Carl H wrote:its been a while since i've seen your harness but it may be one of the older variants with an external ground...if thats the case there is a ground near the ecu but the main grounds are the ones on the intake manifold.try grounding those and see if that works.
The ECU has a big ground right where it goes in the kick panel. ill have to try grounding the wires near the intake mani and ill let you know how it goes. I printed out the ECU pin-out from the R34 FSM and ill check all the powers/grounds going in and out. hopefully my Power-FC didnt take a s***!! id be pissed. ttyl man, thanks for the help.

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zismo02
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My car gave me some problems too, when I got my harness back.

Similar to yours, but I didn't try anything in the car. I re-did my engine grounds and added a Ground at the transmission and Frame rail.

She started right up.(RB20/stock ecu)

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S14-NEO
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sickness14 wrote:
oh crap sorry dude i did forget! you want the height of the shim, width of the shim, height of lifter bucket, width of lifter bucket?

-John
hehe thought you may have forgotten.. what i need is the dimensions of the following items:the height of the lifter bucketthe o.d. of the lifter bucketthe o.d. of the lifter shimthe thickness of the shim doesnt matter cause there are alot of different sizes of those.

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sickness14
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S14-NEO wrote:hehe thought you may have forgotten.. what i need is the dimensions of the following items:the height of the lifter bucketthe o.d. of the lifter bucketthe o.d. of the lifter shimthe thickness of the shim doesnt matter cause there are alot of different sizes of those.
Alright cool. I found someone here at work (chrysler dealership) that has a micrometer that i can use to measure them. I'll bring them to work with me and get a measurement for ya. Hopefully its what your looking for.

-John

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S14-NEO
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thanks again john, i sure do appreciate it!! hey i was just thinking about something and it occured to me that you have the possibilty of having a spare VVT solenoid seems how you have or had two NEO heads.. would you still happen to have that spare VVT solenoid?

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sickness14
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S14-NEO wrote:thanks again john, i sure do appreciate it!! hey i was just thinking about something and it occured to me that you have the possibilty of having a spare VVT solenoid seems how you have or had two NEO heads.. would you still happen to have that spare VVT solenoid?
Hey, Both heads that i got from Chris martz were bare without the VVT Solenoid. I have only the one original and its going to be used on my new head. Sorry man!

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S14-NEO
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gotcha, well it was worth a shot anyways

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sickness14
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Carl H wrote:its been a while since i've seen your harness but it may be one of the older variants with an external ground...if thats the case there is a ground near the ecu but the main grounds are the ones on the intake manifold.try grounding those and see if that works.
hey carl, i have a question for you man. Ok so when doing the wiring conversion on the S14 harness to RB25 neo: At what point is the engine harness spliced to the chasis harness? Im tring to decide at which point in the S14 FSM the diagrams change over to where i have to use the R34 FSM in decoding the wiring for power in the ECU.

when i got the car, the ECU relay was in the kick panel in the passenger side, just hanging there and there was a red 12ga. wire soldered onto two wires coming from that relay, then into an inline fuse holder in the passenger floor board, literally, and that went into a 0/1 ga wire (soldered 12 ga. into 0/1 ga. ) on the passenger footwell area. I took that wire and put it into my fuse holder that i made, with a 20 amp fuse.

Now, the "SMJ" connector, or however i call it, the long skinny one that plugs in from the Engine harness to the dash/ chasis harness on the passenger side under the dash near the floor with the locking lever... is the ECU harness / and ECU connector entirely from the R34, or is that huge plug from the S14. I may be confusing myself but im really lost now. lol.

Im trying to see where my power is being lost in the harness. Nissan is great for not telling you exactly EVERYTHING that one fuse / wire may control.

Im pretty sure there is some kind of lost ignition signal through out the harness because with symptoms like i have,

-ECU no power, but ecu relay has direct batt power-Turn signals no power with hazards that have direct batt power-Limited power to blower motor / vent selectors

im not quite sure where to look first. When i get to the car tonight, im going to check continuity between the hazard switch and the turn signal switch to see if im getting an ignition signal to turn on the turn signals,

then ill check some more of the ECU power in's and see what im missing and trace them backwards using the schematic from the S14 / RB25 diagrams which will be hell.

UGH!!!

-John


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Carl H
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sounds like you're missing the ign power from the harness...it is the big nasty black/red wire comming from the key switch, not to be confused with the rb's injector ground which is the same colour.

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sickness14
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Carl H wrote:sounds like you're missing the ign power from the harness...it is the big nasty black/red wire comming from the key switch, not to be confused with the rb's injector ground which is the same colour.
Hey carl, i made some progress. The IGN i think is working fine, i got the turn signals working! The yellow wire going from the hazard switch to the flasher relay was not tied into the light green / black striped wire on the turn signal switch. I added a new wire between these two points and it works with IGN just like its supposed to.

I also tested several leads on the ECU harness and found that the ECU relay may be bad. The two black stripped wires from the relay that run to the two pins on the ECU: 67 and 72 are not getting powered on when the relay clicks. This also ties into the coil pack harness too. I think the relay is only partially working. i used a fused test lead and powered these two pins on the ECU and it came right on. I remember checking pin 24 which is the IGN signal to the ECU but i was actually looking at the connector from the front of where the ECU plugs in (wrong direction) at the time so when i went to test it, there wasnt even a pin in that spot, so ill have to go back and check that. Well at least i think its working if when i added power to that relay it came on with the ignition switch. We'll see.

On the RB wiring diagram it shows the following relay connections:It goes Bat -> fuse -> relay -> device (this is my keyboard wiring diagram lol)

[BAT]-----|10A fuse|---A----|-o__o-|--------[Coil pack harness][BAT]-----|10A fuse|---B----|-o__o-|--------[pin 67 on ecu] & [pin 72 on ecu]--attach to above----^------|-ow o-|--------[pin 4 ecu, ground to activate relay]

A- ECU taps into this from pin 109 } These two are constant power to ECUB- ECU taps into this from pin 80 }

S14-NEO: I have those lifters here at work with me today, so ill get you a measurement hopefully by the end of the day. Also, the intake and exhaust buckets are different so ill get you both specs.

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S14-NEO
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sickness14 wrote:
S14-NEO: I have those lifters here at work with me today, so ill get you a measurement hopefully by the end of the day. Also, the intake and exhaust buckets are different so ill get you both specs.
much appreciated!!!!!!!!!

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sickness14
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S14-NEO wrote:
much appreciated!!!!!!!!!
Ladies and Gentlemen... and now what you have all been waiting for:

TADA!



LIFTER OUTER DIAMETER : 33.97 mmLIFTER INNER DIAMETER : 31.71 mmLIFTER HEIGHT WITHOUT SHIM 26.72 mmSHIM DIAMETER 29.93 mm



LIFTER OUTER DIAMETER : 33.98 mmLIFTER INNER DIAMETER : 30.00 mmLIFTER HEIGHT WITHOUT SHIM 27.24 mmSHIM DIAMETER 29.93 mm


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