Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

[Carl H]

werd, yeah quite a few rb guys here in nc...ive dont alot of the wiring and fixed several swaps in the area.as far as a meet...i think CN has some kind of big picnic planned but perhaps we can meet up at one of the streetwise events.

[sickness14]

werd, yeah quite a few rb guys here in nc...ive dont alot of the wiring and fixed several swaps in the area.as far as a meet...i think CN has some kind of big picnic planned but perhaps we can meet up at one of the streetwise events.

awesome!!! We'll have to all get together for sure. im down with the CN meet idea, we can all park next to each other and watch the SR guys be jealous lol Cant wait. We need to get a date up here asap and ill take off from work.

Keep in touch.John

[sickness14]

UPDATE! ordered some new stuff

• Nissan Silvia S15 Helical Limited Slip Differential• Nissan Silvia S15 HLSD 6-bolt Splines

• Topspeed Rear Traction Rods

o Gold Forged Extended Aluminum Wheel Lug Nuts 12x1.25

• BF Goodrich TA KDW2 225/40/18 Front Tires• BF Goodrich TA KDW2 245/40/18 Rear Tires

The Z belongs to a friend of mine



and now for the updated mod list:

Motor '98 R34 GT-T Neo RB25DET (Built RB26 bottom end, Neo RB25 head)

Head• RB25DET Neo replacement head• Valve Job / Set Clearances / Resurface• Tomei Poncam Type-B 260mm Duration, 9.15 Lift

Block• RB26 R33 GTR Crank (longer oil pump drive)• RB26 Forged Rods• RB26 8.5:1 CP Forged Pistons 86.5mm• ARP Fasteners• ACL Bearings

Timing• Greddy Timing Belt• OEM Nissan Timing Belt Tensioner• OEM Nissan Timing Belt Idler Pulley

Oil• OEM Nissan N1 Oil pump• Nismo Oil Catch Can• -4AN oil feed line for turbo• -12AN oil return line for turbo

Fuel• Walbro 255lph fuel pump• Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator• Z32 TT Fuel Filter

Air Flow• Greddy Intake Manifold• Apexi Power Intake• Hybrid Power (HDi) Intercooler, 3" inlet, 3" outlet• OEM Infinity Q45 Throttle Body• OEM Nissan Z32 TPS• OEM Nissan Z32 MAF• OEM Nissan 91’ Sentra IACV

Turbo / Exhaust• Precision SC44 Turbo (T3/T4 .63 A/R 70mm turbine wheel)• Top Mount Manifold• Synapse 40mm Wastegate w/ dump tube• HKS SSQV ver. 2 Blow Off Valve• Blitz SR20 3" Stainless Steel Downpipe• Resonated 3" Stainless Steel Test Pipe• Apexi N1 Dual Cat-back Exhaust

Cooling• OEM Nissan Water Pump• OEM Nissan Thermostat• Griffin Aluminum Radiator• Flex-a-Lite Dual 12" Pusher E-fans w/ thermostatic relay

Gaskets & Seals• Cosworth 87mm Bore 1.1mm Thickness MLS Metal Head Gasket• Rear main seal• Valve cover gaskets• Intake manifold gasket• Exhaust manifold gasket• Cam seals

Transmission / Drive-train / Mounts• R34 RB25 Pull style clutch 5 speed manual trans• TC&S Sprung 6 puck Kevlar clutch disc• Resurfaced Pressure Plate• Resurfaced Flywheel• Driveshaft Shop Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft.• OEM R33 Cross-member• Syko Performance motor mount kit• Automatic S14 Transmission x-member• Peak Performance Pro Transmission Mount• Nissan Silvia S15 Helical Limited Slip Differential• Nissan Silvia S15 HLSD 6-bolt Splines

Electronics / Engine Management System• Engine harness and gauge cluster calibrated to read correctly by CARL H of charlotte• ER34 Apexi Power-FC Standalone EMS w/ Hand Commander• AEM Tru-Boost Gauge/Controller• AEM Uego Wideband• Battery Trunk Relocation Kit (0/1 Ga. Kit)• OEM Nissan Quest Alternator (140amp)

Suspension• Megan Racing 32-way adj. Street Edition Coilovers w/ camber plates• Battle Version Rear Upper Control Arms• Topspeed Rear Traction Rods• Energy suspension hyper-flex system• Energy suspension differential mount bushings

Brakes• Z32 TT Front 2 Piston Calipers• Z32 TT Front Slotted rotors• Z32 TT Caliper Conversion lines

Wheels• RAYS Engineering Forged 350z Track Edition v.1 wheelso (F) 18x8 +33o (R) 18x8.5 +30o Gold Forged Extended Aluminum Wheel Lug Nuts 12x1.25Tires• BF Goodrich TA KDW2 225/40/18 Front Tires• BF Goodrich TA KDW2 245/40/18 Rear Tires

Exterior/Paint• OEM USDM Corner Lights• OEM SE Front Valance Color Matched

Interior/Audio• Nismo White Ball Shift Knob• Alpine speakers• Alpine MRP-F250 Amp• Pioneer DEH-P4000 Head unit



To Do

Mechanicalo Alignmento suspension adjustmento Bushing Installationo LSD Installationo Injectors o Tune

Interioro Carpeto Radio surround bezel w/ cig. Lighter o A/C controlso Shift boot surroundo Back seats o Visor clips

Exterioro Replace seal on sunroof, back window, cowl, and need new wiperseventually get the whole car painted for baller status <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/image ... /smile.gif" BORDER="0">

FOR SALE

• 2x (F) Bridgestone Potenza RE 960AS Pole Position 225/45/18


Modified by sickness14 at 11:07 AM 8/15/2009

[Cjmartz2k]

Wow, nice list. I'd say you had a RB26 with a neo head, not an RB25 though. How's the tuning coming?

[Shocker]

Very nice work man. I envy you and your running car.

The car looks absolutely great! Glad the HG worked out.

[l0nestar]

A couple of things..Z32 - 2 piston calipers are from the N/A. 4-pistons are from the TT93-02 Quest Alternators are 125A, 04-+ are 150A.

Your car looks sick as hell. now go get it t00n'd! I demand dyno-sheets!

[sickness14]

A couple of things..Z32 - 2 piston calipers are from the N/A. 4-pistons are from the TT93-02 Quest Alternators are 125A, 04-+ are 150A.

Your car looks sick as hell. now go get it t00n'd! I demand dyno-sheets!

Oh, i must have been mistaken, i thought it went like this: 28mm Aluminum 2-piston (300zx NA)30mm Aluminum 2-piston (300zx TT)30mm Iron 2-piston (skyline R33)

not sure about the alternator year that the car is from, thanks though!

-John

[sickness14]

Very nice work man. I envy you and your running car.

The car looks absolutely great! Glad the HG worked out.

Thanks and i appreciate the help!

Wow, nice list. I'd say you had a RB26 with a neo head, not an RB25 though. How's the tuning coming?

The tuning is going well, but i believe im experiencing some boost creep!!!! just like you guys said about the manifold. The wastegate pressure is set to 5.8 psi and it creeps to around 8.5 at higher RPM. may have to fix that at one point before i get new injectors / dyno tune .

[l0nestar]

Well then, maybe I have been lied to my entire life.. lol!

[Shocker]

Thanks and i appreciate the help!

The tuning is going well, but i believe im experiencing some boost creep!!!! just like you guys said about the manifold. The wastegate pressure is set to 5.8 psi and it creeps to around 8.5 at higher RPM. may have to fix that at one point before i get new injectors / dyno tune .

Looking at the wastegate pipe placement on your manifold, I doubt that is possible without re-doing the design. (unless your WG diaphragm is bad, or a s***ty BC is being used, or your vac line to WG is leaking) You need to catch some of the flow through the runners before it enters the turbine housing. Your wastegate pipe is going the wrong direction for this to happen.

Look into a different manifold perhaps? 6 boost seems to be quite a good deal, I'm sure you can get one made so your turbo placement doesn't change.

[sickness14]

Looking at the wastegate pipe placement on your manifold, I doubt that is possible without re-doing the design. (unless your WG diaphragm is bad, or a s***ty BC is being used, or your vac line to WG is leaking) You need to catch some of the flow through the runners before it enters the turbine housing. Your wastegate pipe is going the wrong direction for this to happen.

Look into a different manifold perhaps? 6 boost seems to be quite a good deal, I'm sure you can get one made so your turbo placement doesn't change.

Sounds great. I'd love to eventually get another manifold. I could Cut the wastegate flange off now and block off the tube coming off of the collector, then weld the tube for the wastegate flange directly 90 degrees off of the 6-1 collector. I think there is plenty of room.

[Carl H]

the problem with that manifold is that it goes against the flow of the exhaust gasses...the gasses have to go up then down to get out, if you recirc the wg then most likely the problem will be fixed as the venturi effect will help pull gasses thru the wg.on my hks cast manifold the wastegate is located ontop of the manifold...so again similar story; gasses had to go up then down and i was having serious overboosting issues.once i recirced the wg it holds boost just fine.

[sickness14]

the problem with that manifold is that it goes against the flow of the exhaust gasses...the gasses have to go up then down to get out, if you recirc the wg then most likely the problem will be fixed as the venturi effect will help pull gasses thru the wg.on my hks cast manifold the wastegate is located ontop of the manifold...so again similar story; gasses had to go up then down and i was having serious overboosting issues.once i recirced the wg it holds boost just fine.

Cool man, thanks for the help. ill have to see if there is room to re-route the WG. The wastegate tube was cut and rotated so the wastegate is pointing towards the front of the engine. it would have to be modified to back to the other direction and able to clear the steering shaft

[S14-NEO]

i believe i posted up pics of my manifold that i modifed to get the boost under control...if you cant find em let me know ill post them back up...havent had a single issue since with boost creep.

[meet07]

I emailed you the other day s14-neo to see where you got the wastegate material from. Ive been looking for a few months now and cant find a place that sells the 321ss tubing.

[S14-NEO]

ahh shoot, sorry man i completely forgot...lemm see if i can find that info for ya

[S14-NEO]

this place has what you need. http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/index.php

[meet07]

Isn't that just regular old exhaust tubing??? Dont tell me thats what 321 SS really is??

[S14-NEO]

you have to contact them if i remember right...when you call them up just specify what wall thickness you want.

[sickness14]

BAD NEWS Theory 1...

it all started when i had an oil leak from the half moon pieces in the valve cover. I was told to use silicone gasket sealant around the half moon to stop the leak. I pulled the valve covers, put some silicone around the 2 pieces, put the valve covers back on and let it dry for 24 hrs.

The next night i decided to take the car out for a ride and about 15 minutes into my drive it started smoking from the exhaust bad. thick white clouds of smoke. I pulled over and shut the car off. restarted it about a half hour later and it was still smoking. I let it run for a few minutes and unhooked my catch can from the valve cover so the smoke would not re-route into the intake. Eventually it stopped. It drove fine after that and didnt have any problems. this was all a few days ago.

friday i went to work, parked my car and worked a 5 hour shift. After work i went out, started my car, it was fine. let it warm up and was pulling out of the parking lot with it running great. i got to a stop sign in the mall parking lot like 200 ft away from where my parking spot was and all of a sudden... "clank clank clank" OH CRAP, and i shut the car off. Got out, looked under the hood and there was no evidence of any damage or cause. i checked the oil level, looked black as hell but there was oil in it. i looked in the oil cap and there was a little smoke coming out of it. I pushed the car out of the way, got it towed by my friends towing company to a friends shop.

My idea of what happened... Basically long story short, silicone gasket sealant excess burned off the back of the half moon, liquified into the oil, got into the oil pan, solidified around the N1 oil pump pick-up and blocked the strainer. at this point, the starvation of oil yielded a spun rod bearing, and a binding sound coming from the head, basically the cams running dry. there was little to no running time on the engine after i heard the noise, i caught it almost instantly but at that point, its probably already too late.

I hope to be able to get the car checked out to see what it really is and to verify my idea, or to prove me wrong with a cheaper solution... We're going to start by checking oil pressure with a manual gauge to see if thats really the problem, and then probably pull the oil pan off to check to see if the strainer is clogged. If it is what i think, the motor would basically have to be pulled AGAIN and this time the block torn down instead of the head. well at this point, i can officially say that i have touched every single part / piece/ area of this car and it has basically been an entire rebuild while ive owned it. Before, i couldnt say i built the entire motor because it was done by the previous owner, but now i can.

My dream of this car being in a magazine is looking farther away... lol. The up-side, the background story is getting longer and more incredibly unbelievable!

-John

Modified by sickness14 at 7:43 AM 4/27/2009
Modified by sickness14 at 7:43 AM 4/27/2009

[sickness14]

To keep this thread interesting... because a thread sucks without pics! car should be taken apart on thursday. ill keep you updated.

[Shocker]

First, I don't see why you had white smoke, that has nothing to do with a spun bearing. Unless you had a HG leak and thinned your oil out with water... That is either water/coolant from somewhere in your combustion cycle burning off.

Second how much gasket maker did you put on the half moons? What type of gasket maker did you use? When I do mine I use a tiny bit of either nissan OEM red s***, or Black stuff from permagasket or w/e its called. The stuff is MADE for engine oil type applications. Its basically just a thin coating on the underside of the half moon. Remember this stuff should never "melt" its what holds your oil pan on, and sees very hot temperatures. I really don't see this as your issue unless you really gobbed the s*** all over your half moons so that it was basically dripping into your head. Even then I really doubt that was the cause.

Bummer anyhow man, this s*** just gripes me up.

[Cjmartz2k]

Damn dude! I'm at work right now so I can't see the pics, but that just sucks. You have had the worst luck I have seen since my jeep days with car stuff.

I think you would have had to put a LOT of sealant on there for it to have made things go wrong. You said silicon? Did you just mean RTV, or really silicon? Anyways, I don't think that would make it go clank clank clank. IF it was silicon and IF it caused you oil pressure to die from getting caught up in the pump or pick up, I think the first think it would do it spin a rod or main bearing. Almost sounds like something unrealated and just a coincidence. Did you do anything else to the car recently? Kinda tought o guess with no pics, can't hear the noise, and being half a world away.

Side note--I got the box and parts yesterday. Thanks man! I just sent the stuff off to the guy in the Caribian this morning. Hopefully this will be an easy fix for you and I won't have to send you any more stuff, but I'm here if you need me.

[sickness14]

you know guys you have a great point. I used Permatex Ultra black. Its specifically designed to be an OE replacement for valvecover gaskets. It has "maximum oil resistance" and is rated to 500 degrees F.

Im starting to think it was something else, and it was just a coincidence that i re-sealed the valve cover at the same time. We'll see i guess. The shop is supposed to start looking at it tomorrow.

-John.

PS: heres a link to the stuff i used: http://www.permatex.com/produc...r.htm

I should have used:

http://www.permatex.com/produc...r.htm


Modified by sickness14 at 7:23 AM 4/29/2009

[meet07]

hey john did you take it back to the same shop from before??

[Carl H]

grey gasket is what you should always use...not the copper stuff it doesnt torque properly.

[sickness14]

No, I had it towed to a different one.

[sickness14]

alright so scratch theory number 1...

Theory 2

So the gasket maker just happened to be a coincidence like some of you said. the shop checked my oil pressure today and its at around 70psi at 2k rpm so the oil pump is good.

It must have just had something else going on in the block. its still knocking from the bottom end so the motor will be pulled out and properly re-built. Its basically the only thing i have not touched yet on this build and i was afraid that it would eventually have to be checked as well.

I think of it this way... There REALLY isnt anything left to happen with this thing!!! the pistons , rods, crank will come out, new bearings will probably go in, and the crank will probably have to be machined.

Before it all goes back together, the pistons and piston walls will all be measured as well as everything else to check clearances and make sure that all is well.

Still living the dream. Hope to one day have 400whp daily driver, then buy a beater, get all the body work done on it, with an OEM Navan aero kit, and some work meister sp1's and then get it into a magazine and be happy

[eh?]

Can you locate the source of the noise? I had a knocking sound at the rear of the motor which I thought was spun bearing..turns out it was just the Throw out bearing. Drain your oil and check for metallic flakes.

[meet07]

man john that suxs a big one. I drove mine this weekend with my new oil pressure gauge. did a lil custom deal where the radio sits.... I replaced all the exhaust manifold studs cause I was getting a lil leak near runner 1. And I got my afc back so she is sreaming foreal now.

Good luck.