Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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sickness14
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Good call on the manifold, ill try and have this done before it is installed. as for the wastegate, im interested to see how it will perform, ill try and set it to one of the lowest preset boost ports and decide where it should be by working my way up while watching injector duty cycle on PFC commander as well as A/F ratio and timing advancement.

Does anyone know what the differences are on the various casting numbers of RB25 Heads. Ive got a few i need identified.

my original head was 5L8 4 (was an ER34 GTT neo head)the second head i got was 5L7 2 (which had different intake ports that didnt match my neo intake mani)found a head in australia that was 5L8 2and now ive got another head from japan on the way that was from a Laurel neo motor with 5L8 3

Can anyone help? i want to make sure that this new head will work! I figured the 5L7 is a non turbo head, where as the 5L8 is a turbo head. I just am not sure about that last number and whether it is important. -John

Original Head from the 1998 ER34 RB25DET Neo

The first head chris sent me from japan, he claims it is a non-turbo R34 neo head

I found this head in australia and it is from an R34 Neo.

This is the second head chris is sending me, from a Laurel 4dr auto sedan, neo head.


Cjmartz2k
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Does it look like the intake side is the same? I'm about to walk out the door and ship this thing. Should I wait?

Cjmartz2k
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I've been looking back and forth at pictures of the heads for the past hour. Not that my eyechrometer is very accurate or anything, but the only difference I can see between the 3 heads besides the port shape is the two bolt holes WAY at the back of the head near the bottom. On your original head and on the one I have here, they are diagonal, but on the head I already sent you, they are side by side. Where did the intake not line up on the non-turbo head so I can scrutinize that section of the pictures for a difference?

Cjmartz2k
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***It just occurred to me! You want me to send you the intake gasket to compare? Or what if we each took a pic directly over it and put them up side by side?

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sickness14
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Cjmartz2k wrote:Does it look like the intake side is the same? I'm about to walk out the door and ship this thing. Should I wait?
Cjmartz2k wrote:I've been looking back and forth at pictures of the heads for the past hour. Not that my eyechrometer is very accurate or anything, but the only difference I can see between the 3 heads besides the port shape is the two bolt holes WAY at the back of the head near the bottom. On your original head and on the one I have here, they are diagonal, but on the head I already sent you, they are side by side. Where did the intake not line up on the non-turbo head so I can scrutinize that section of the pictures for a difference?
Cjmartz2k wrote:***It just occurred to me! You want me to send you the intake gasket to compare? Or what if we each took a pic directly over it and put them up side by side?
Everything should be find, go ahead and ship it out. The ports on this new head match


Cjmartz2k
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OK, it's leaving in about an hour

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sickness14
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UPDATE

Bumper, lip, grill, and fender all painted fresh to death


Cjmartz2k
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Head went out a few hours ago

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sickness14
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thanks man! Woot woot. so close to being done!

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meet07
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hey john can you post some pics of your modified turbo manifold. Im not going to be able to make it up to the shop any this week. Do you still need that ac comp?

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sickness14
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meet07 wrote:hey john can you post some pics of your modified turbo manifold. Im not going to be able to make it up to the shop any this week. Do you still need that ac comp?
Hey,

I dont have any updated pics of the manifold as of right now. And the A/C compressor... what is it from again and how much do you want for it?

-John

Cjmartz2k
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Not to nose in on the sale, but I thought you wanted the a/c compressor from this neo motor? Maybe not?

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sickness14
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Cjmartz2k wrote:Not to nose in on the sale, but I thought you wanted the a/c compressor from this neo motor? Maybe not?
I would like the a/c compressor from you chris but im not sure what the shipping cost would be, as it may not be the best route for me if im just getting one thing from you. Ill wait and see what it will cost in shipping if i buy it from you when im ready. im not in a rush to get the a/c working as its the least of my worries right now!

I just wont make any A/C purchases without you knowing chris. no worries!

-John

Cjmartz2k
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No problem either way man. Just let me know so I know to hang on to it or not

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sickness14
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UPDATE

-Note on my door suggests the new head has had an attempted missed delivery because i was not home ill pick it up from the USPS in the morning

-Energy Suspension Hyperflex kit showed up! still waiting on the rear diff bushing kit from them. should arrive soon.

Also, Carl H may know this but is it possible to wire my two flex-a-lite pusher fans to the stock harness using the on-board relays and fuses? How is the activation of the relays controlled? Does the power FC have the ability to set the temp for when the fans kicks in? i thought i saw an option under "settings" that said "water" and has different temps in there. not sure if thats even related. I do know that there are two coolant temp sensors or at least what appears to be on the coolant neck on the greddy intake mani.

Any opinions?

Enjoy

-John

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Carl H
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bushings help out SO much on these cars.as far as the fan controls go, i dont remember if i left the factory fan relay triggers on the efi harness or not...im pretty sure i did and if so they will be ziptied up near the f3 plug, just ground them to trigger the fan relays in the fuse box.i used an hks fan controller to trigger ground and combined with those relays worked pretty well till i went back to the clutch fan.

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sickness14
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Carl H wrote:bushings help out SO much on these cars.as far as the fan controls go, i dont remember if i left the factory fan relay triggers on the efi harness or not...im pretty sure i did and if so they will be ziptied up near the f3 plug, just ground them to trigger the fan relays in the fuse box.i used an hks fan controller to trigger ground and combined with those relays worked pretty well till i went back to the clutch fan.
Thanks carl, i look forward to having these installed and an improved ride! no more clunking around. as for the fan controls, where's the F3 plug? I know its probably in the FSM but i didnt know if its something easily explained. What would i connect the ground on the trigger wires to if i did find them? I do have this cheap thermostatic fan controller from autozone (like 17 bucks) that was hardwired in by gregg from the batt to the fans with a fuse in between and it was blowing 30A fuses! There are a bunch of plugs on the harness where the MAF is wired into and like 3 or 4 plugs arent connected to anything. I was wondering if you may remember what they could be for. Also, did you wire just the engine harness or was it like the whole harness?

-John
Modified by sickness14 at 4:35 PM 3/31/2009

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sickness14
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UPDATE

-New head is here! I took it to the machine shop around 4:30pm to have it looked over. they will -re-surface it -pressure check and inspect for cracks, vacuum check the valves to make sure they are fully seated -check valve seals to make sure they are still good -install cams and check clearances

-Discovered that the s***ty cheap a** ebay turbo manifold needs to be port matched because it is waaay off. UGH. hate problems. wish i had the money to get a nice one right now. I cant use the stock one b/c wastegate. i dont want to weld a flange on it either.

Oh and CJ Martz.

Thanks for all of your help man. About the box you sent me... Its bad a**! what a great idea. how much was that thing? reason i ask is that its kinda beat up from shipping. looks like they tossed it around and when i got it, the right side duck tape was cut through and it looked like a monkey had tried to pry the right side of the box open without undoing the tape and latches and broke the back hinge on one side. Let me know if your still interested in me sending it back to you based on the pics i took of it. I can no prob if you want. Just didnt know what its worth to you. If it doesnt cost too much, id just say screw it. but your call

-John


Cjmartz2k
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Glad you got it safe and in one piece (well, the head at least)! That's typical post office bulls*** right there. Yeah, still throw it back in the mail too me if you don't mind. I'm just going to use it for hiding more car parts from the movers when I go back to the states in 6 months. Super slow parcel post or whatever is fine. If your just going to throw that bubble wrap away, put it back in the box first if you don't mind. Mine address is under the duct tape, so you can just peel it off.

Did you test fit the intake manifold?

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sickness14
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Cjmartz2k wrote:Glad you got it safe and in one piece (well, the head at least)! That's typical post office bulls*** right there. Yeah, still throw it back in the mail too me if you don't mind. I'm just going to use it for hiding more car parts from the movers when I go back to the states in 6 months. Super slow parcel post or whatever is fine. If your just going to throw that bubble wrap away, put it back in the box first if you don't mind. Mine address is under the duct tape, so you can just peel it off.

Did you test fit the intake manifold?
Sounds good chris. Ill throw the bubble wrap and news paper back in it before i ship it off to you. good call on the address under the tape! lol. I did test fit the head on the manifold before i took it over to the machine shop and everything bolts up great. its vastly different than the 1st head. Im still wondering what it is! so when you come back to the states, where will you be returning to?

-John

Cjmartz2k
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KICK a**!! I'm so glad I don't have to keep searching for Neo motors You should get a shot of the two I sent you side by side when it comes back from the machine shop just for comparison.

My last day in the Air Force is Sept 6, but since I'm over seas, I'll have to be back a little before then to out process at the closest AF base to my home of record which is Greensboro. I'm guessing Seymour-Johnson or Pope. From there, I'm just waiting on the FAA to call me and say "you've got a job" and for $100k+ a year, I'll go where ever the hell they want me too

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sickness14
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Cjmartz2k wrote:KICK a**!! I'm so glad I don't have to keep searching for Neo motors You should get a shot of the two I sent you side by side when it comes back from the machine shop just for comparison.

My last day in the Air Force is Sept 6, but since I'm over seas, I'll have to be back a little before then to out process at the closest AF base to my home of record which is Greensboro. I'm guessing Seymour-Johnson or Pope. From there, I'm just waiting on the FAA to call me and say "you've got a job" and for $100k+ a year, I'll go where ever the hell they want me too
awesome man, you'll have to keep me posted when you get back to NC and ill show you the whip! (that is if its running by then... haha) Oh and i wonder how many of those black boxes it would take to get your skyline disassembled, shipped over, and re-assembled as a nissan 240sx lol. ill give you my VIN plate heh !!

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sickness14
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UPDATE

Just heard back from the machine shop, They said the head checked out great! no leaks, cracks, nada. They did however say that the clearance on the exhaust valves is .002 of an inch beyond the factory spec, and gave me the option of having them pull it all apart and do a solid lifter adjust. I would need new valve seals and all. I decided that i would run the head as is. They said that its not enough of a difference to worry about too much. They also said that it would not hurt to have the clearance just a tad to wide, just a little more noisy. they said its worse to have the clearance too small because the valve never fully seats and does not transfer heat efficiently to the valve seats.

does all of this sound accurate?

So ive been poking around in the engine bay and ive been wondering how long i'll hold off before i pull some of the harness and simplify it a bit. Only problem is, i dont know what ill need and what i wont without the A/C system in place. also, i DO like the SE fogs, so i probably wont pull that wiring. and i need a horn!! its not even in the car anymore so i hope the wiring thats there will work and nothing else has been removed.

Theoretically.... will the cruise control work? im not sure if thats controlled by the power FC or if its a totally separate system. some cars have an actuator that physically pulls the throttle cable, and other cars have an electronically controlled system. I dont think it will work just because its not drive by wire.

I may as well add that wiring to the "pull" list. im going to get my FSM for the S14 printed out on paper and get the diagrams matched up to see what im dealing with. How many of you guys pulled your airbags / module / harness? Ive eliminated the amps under the rear deck and i guess i could pull all of the audio system wiring to the amp if i was in there. I guess there really isnt all that much wiring i could eliminate becuse i DO still have AC, and all of that good stuff.

one thing im not sure about is the extent of the factory alarm system wiring. where do those relays in the fuse box under the hood go to? Do those wires just run to the inside of the car where the switches are for headlights and stuff or do the relays cary all the way to the individual harness connectors? I dont have remote for my car so basically the whole thing is useless and ill replace it with a viper or something one day. should i leave all of that stuff in place to make it easier to add a new alarm later or should i pull all of the wiring and start fresh?

UGH!!

oh well, this is just me thinking about things to keep me busy in the time its taking to get the new head machined. I cant wait!!! hopefully everything goes back together the way it came off.


Modified by sickness14 at 4:27 PM 4/1/2009

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bumblebtuna
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i still have the fob for the alarm if you want it, it's kinda ragged though (taped up) but still works

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Carl H
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cruise is wired into the harness...least it should be last time i checked.you'll need to rig the throttle body for it some how.as far as slimming down the wiring goes for the harness its not worth the time you'll spend trying to eliminate harness stuff wire by wire...weight difference is that of taking the spare tire out of the rear.

Cjmartz2k
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I'm drunk right now after a long night of racing, thinking my motor was blown up, running solid 11's in slippery a** Okinawa (gtec), and finding out my motors might not be blown, so I will read this more thoroughly in the morning. I did, however, see one sentence in that last post that said the head checked out and your good to go! I've been sweating going in the hole big time on the one head, buying another motor to get another head, and then maybe having to give you your money back again if this one didn't work (casting number mismatch), so this is kick a** news! I'm glad your motor will be running soon man, but I'm even more glad I'm not going to have to sell my car to pay for yours! You are SO getting me drunk when I come back to NC and racing my a** around

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sickness14
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Can someone say progress?

She should be running tomorrow night! still need:

-new plugs-nipple welded on cold pipe for IACV-Manifold needs 40mm WG flange welded on-Downpipe needs to be finished-fill fluids (gear oil, engine oil, coolant)-hmmm am i missing anything?

-John


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Carl H
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cj - im suprised you're not on carolinanissans . com ... there are loads of current and ex military guys on there.to the OP, its lookin good man and hope you get her squared away soon!.

Cjmartz2k
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I'll check it out, thanks Carl

Running vids please

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Shocker
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Very nice progress man! I'm glad to see her coming together for you! Its looking great!


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