Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

[sickness14]

Im not sure about the block off plug, it was already like this. I think its part of the PCV system. It has been deleted and replaced w/ catch can.

As for the cam cams, they arent in any order, and i believe that there is 1-7 stamped on on set for one cam, and 11- something on the others. they should go back fine.

the cam broke in half yesterday when being re-installed to the head for transport to the machine shop. looks like it had a stress crack in it and it gave out.

im trying to locate Tomei poncams type B. probably 260 duration, 9.15 lift. there is also a 252 degree duration, but im not certain on which to order. someone told me to mix and match them? doesnt sound right to me.

looks like ill probably get them from http://www.RHDjapan.com

[Carl H]

dont mix and match cams...thats a bad idea.might work for the dsm crowd but i have my doubts about it.just go with the 260's they'll be fine.make sure you get the neo specific cams they may not offer them higher than 256.

[bumblebtuna]

wow john, just caught this thread

for anyone not informed, i got shafted by the Machine shop who did the work on the head....daryl at RPM has little to no experience with RB's, i figured it'd be easy to remove and replace cams after cleaning up the head, but to my suprise, he not only put the cams in backwards, but mafvkulated the lash somehow......i kept telling myself the ticking was normal but knew better.

RPM in Mt. Juliet TN...Tell your friends.

just about everything addressed in this thread was on the "to do list" i just ran out of money, time, desire to finish it. by the way man i have the rear main seal in my garage. also you thought the clutch was fun to remove, you're in for a treat when it goes back together, that little clip is a c .unt lol

judging by the promtness of the front end, teardown of the motor, parts ordered, i feel like this car is going to finished right... which would be killer, i'm pretty excited about it, i put alot of time into it and hated to let it go, reguardless of the state it was in. you got my number so hit me up if there's anything else i can assist you with. and keep me posted!

[sickness14]

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!!

Ordered Tomei Pon Cams Type-B 260 Degree Duration. should be here in about a week.

After further inspection of the pistons and valves, i happened to notice that #1 and #6 piston has met a few valves and her friends... i cant tell the extend of the damage on the valves, but the pistons appear to be fine. (see pics) This is what i believe to be the source of the tapping noise. the 2 degree off timing on both cams caused the #1 and #6 pistons to hit intake and exhaust valves during its cycle. what probably happened was it initially bend the valves and the just kept tapping.

The head drain is being removed. this is what i believe to be the cause of the camshaft breaking in half. the head was not properly lubricated with oil because too much was draining out, which caused wear on the cam caps that hold the cams down. they must have ran dry and the heat and fatigue over time with no oil caused their demise. this theory also explains the overheating issue i had with the car.

the temp got up to 114 degrees C. and 104 degrees C on 2 occasions.

So... the plan... -waiting for throw out bearing spring to come in. install this and reinstall transmission, driveshaft (this will prob get done while waiting on cams since this was ordered last week and should have been here today)-waiting on cams, install on head-Send head to machine shop to set clearances, surface head, inspect for bent valves, inspect valve guides, replace valve seals-Re-install head, and everything else that goes with it.-Custom fit top mount mainfold on, clock turbo, create new oil/coolant lines for turbo





Modified by sickness14 at 4:58 PM 2/3/2009
Modified by sickness14 at 5:05 PM 2/3/2009

[Shocker]

Pistons should be fine, that's very minimal.

You say the cam caps show signs of wear? Like actual visible scoring from not being lubricated enough?

If so post up some pics, do also check to make sure the oil orifices for the cam caps are not clogged. My head had one that was clogged and it started to cause the cam cap to wear.

Those are pretty hot temps to btw.

[sickness14]

i havent checked the cam caps yet for wear, but the cams appeared to be worn. ill also check the oil ports. thanks for the advice.

Also, im going to include some of Greg's (bumblebtuna) pics from the original build.



-John

PS: this is a little off subject, but...

I had ordered some fenders as soon as i got the car thinking that i would never run into the kind of deal i did with the front end i bought. now, im selling them because i need more money to fix the more important things. what do you guys think of the fenders? they're authentic Msport d-style fenders, FRP +20mm wider. Im selling them for $400. shipping was expensive!!!


Modified by sickness14 at 5:52 PM 2/3/2009

[Shocker]

Hey man if you need a new MHG I've got a brand new rb25 Cosworth gasket for sale in packaging. I'll give you a good deal.

I forgot this was a built motor, that is brutal. Hopefully your valves are savable, ferrea will spank you for only a couple.

[sickness14]

Hey man if you need a new MHG I've got a brand new rb25 Cosworth gasket for sale in packaging. I'll give you a good deal.

I forgot this was a built motor, that is brutal. Hopefully your valves are savable, ferrea will spank you for only a couple.

hey thanks man, how much are you looking for the gasket?

[Shocker]

hey thanks man, how much are you looking for the gasket?

How does $150 shipped sound? Its 87mm 1.1mm thickness.

They are now $200 new plus shipping.

Its a great gasket. Very good article on it here vs cometic, and OEM.

http://www.beyondthedyno.com/Blogs/Eric/?p=386

email: [email protected]

[sickness14]

How does $150 shipped sound? Its 87mm 1.1mm thickness.

They are now $200 new plus shipping.

Its a great gasket. Very good article on it here vs cometic, and OEM.

http://www.beyondthedyno.com/Blogs/Eric/?p=386

email: [email protected]

Hmm... sounds tempting. question is... i think my bore is 86mm. im not sure to be honest. i think its just stroked, with rb26 pistons. will this gasket work?

[bumblebtuna]

should still be close to stock, only had it honed, not bored overi think you'd be fine with that headgasket

[sickness14]

should still be close to stock, only had it honed, not bored overi think you'd be fine with that headgasket

Can i re-use the cometic one thats already in there?

[Shocker]

Can i re-use the cometic one thats already in there?

I know a few people who have reused MHG with copper spray, a couple of them had them leak on them, some had no issues.

Personally, I'd never reuse a headgasket. Every time the head comes off a new headgasket goes down IMO. The money for the gasket is worth knowing you have a solid seal that wont be needing fixed.

The bore is fine for a stock 86mm bore, which is the same as the rb25 and rb26. It will leave ~.5mm around extra.

[sickness14]

UPDATE!!!

i received my Cosworth MLS head gasket.i received my Tomei Pon Cams!!!The head went to the machine shop today and should be ready by tuesday. I removed the gauges from the A pillar, and put them where the A/C controls were in a DIN gauge panel.the rear interior of the car is now gutted, along with all of the carpet. i did this because of the water leak i had in the driver side back seat floor. there was still water in the car from like 4 weeks ago. i am going to replace the hoses coming down from the sunroof and then try pouring water on it to see if it is still leaking. my theory is that the hoses are clogged and water is running down the interior sheet metal on the b-pillar.

more pics coming soon when i upload them from the camera.

-John

[sickness14]

To: Carl H, coolwhip, or s14-neo...

I have been trying to locate a part for my clutch for a while now and have not had any luck. Im in need of the part that holds the release bearing to the pressure plate. it goes into the hole where the pressure plate fingers are. I tried cross referencing the part to an 04 pathfinder 2wd VQ35 at the dealership and found the part on an "all data" database but the dealership cannot figure out what part it is and gave me a whole new release bearing. which is the same on that pathfinder by the way.

any info? heres a pic of an aftermarket clutch kit with the piece installed on the pressure pate that im missing. i really dont want to have to buy a whole new pressure plate!!!

also, im going to be possibly picking up a turbo tomorrow used from a friend. its a Precsion SC44 Journal bearing (.63 A/R 70mm wheel, 565hp rated, 3"intake, 5bolt exhaust T3 turbo) he wants $450, retail is around $899. what do you guys think? keep in mind, the exhaust side ball bearing on my T28 is toast!

-John



(its the ring in the center of the pressure plate that looks like a gear.

[meet07]

good luck on the build sickness. I was up at the shop when rb guru was pulling it in. The tapping didnt sound that bad but I guess it was. Holla if you need some extra hands. I live about 10 minutes away.

[sickness14]

good luck on the build sickness. I was up at the shop when rb guru was pulling it in. The tapping didnt sound that bad but I guess it was. Holla if you need some extra hands. I live about 10 minutes away.

hey man, have we met before? oh i replied to your thread about your car. i was wondering if you still had your stock clutch setup, im missing a part of my pressure plate that clips onto the release bearing. you you have it? thanksJohn

[sickness14]

hey guys, update here. i have done a few things since my last post

-painted / cleaned fuel rail, painted air intake pipe for turbo. MAF will go on cold side piping to TB-relocated gauges from a-pillar to center console for a less "fast and the furious" look.. -got a new turbo Precision SC44, .63 A/R, 70mm wheel. 565HP capable. this is going to go great with my new top mount manifold, poncams, and fresh headwork! -I NEED A WASTEGATE!!! AHH. what size should i get, my mani has a 38mm flange, but ive been told to get a 40mm, or 44mm. i dont want it to be too large because ill run into more problems with it if it dumps too much exhaust gas and the turbo stops spooling.

[meet07]

Yeah I do still have the stock clutch but not the peice you are talking about. In currently using that peice. Im not sure if we have meet but im pretty sure we will soon. I wanna see that manifold when its done. I know Ronnie's Dad has a similar manifold that he done up. Cant wait to see the out come. What are you doing about your ignition system??

[sickness14]

UPDATE

-Wedge collar for the FD RX7 on i found on ebay snapped right into place, clutch problem solved! (need to put trans back on)-Tomei type-b poncams arrived-Synapse wastegate arrived-Precision SC44 arrived -cosworth 1.1mm 76mm bore head gasket arrived!-Purchased new neo head ...-ordered a 3" v-band kit, and a 2.5" v-band kit for the turbo downpipe and turbo. Im going to have a v-band flange welded to the turbine housing for the downpipe.

Things left to do:-waiting for it to arrive from okinawa japan! and then i can take it to the machine shop to have cams installed, valve job, clearances set.-need to order the bolts and misc missing hardware from precision turbo-need to purchase oil feed line (trying to figure out the block fitting size to get the correct line) i think its a -4 AN 1/8 npt on the turbo side.-need to purchase -10 oil drain line (high temp silicone) and vacuum line (not sure what size) for the wastegate-custom downpipe elbow / dump tube needs to be made

-put everything else back together!

wow, its almost done...

[bumblebtuna]

awesome...

[sickness14]

awesome...

UPDATE AGAIN!! LOL

Transmission is back on, now the slave cylinder is stripped out where the pressure line feeds in. so ill be looking for a new one, or a 300zx one should work. I got a 3ft. -4AN oil feed line made yesterday locally, and it looks great.

WAITING ON PARTS TO ARRIVE-Neo Head-MAF aluminum adapter plate for inline use-Z32 MAF-2ft Silicone -10 hose for oil drain-12mm x 1.25 to -4AN Fitting for oil feed from block-2.5" V-band for turbo housing to downpipe-precision turbo hardware (rings and bolts) will be donated by my friend jerry!

ahh i cant wait. soo close. This will be my first time Really driving this car. Before, it was in REALLY bad shape and it didnt even know what boost was
Modified by sickness14 at 3:28 PM 2/27/2009

[sickness14]

UPDATE

-slave cylinder is replaced and we bled out the air in the clutch line, way better now.

more to come soon.

Anyone else still following this build?

-John

[mott6904]

of course i just dont see a need to post on the little details im waiting for a new video of a clean sounding engine.

[sickness14]

of course i just dont see a need to post on the little details im waiting for a new video of a clean sounding engine.

Haha. Thanks.

Could anyone help me out with Z32 MAF wiring diagram to a NEO connector? I dont know if its different from S1 or S2. Ive found this:

zerothread?id=132682http://paulr33.skyl ... al....html

But i want to make sure its the same on my harness. They didnt say anything about the neo. Also, do you wire both grounds together?Thanks!

[craz4240]

Should be the same as wiring it to an S2 motor they use the same MAF.

[sickness14]

The new head arrived today and i took it over to the machine shop with the tomei cams.

Is there anything special i need to do when setting the timing with the new cams in? Do i just set it at TDC, align both cams with marks on the back plate, and set the CAS in the center?

John

Modified by sickness14 at 8:02 PM 3/2/2009
Modified by sickness14 at 11:26 PM 3/4/2009

[sickness14]

UPDATE

Parts that showed up today-MAF adapter plate

Also took a bunch of pictures. the ones with the cylinder head in them are actually pics of the original cracked head. you can kind of see the cracks along the inside of the combustion chamber where the spark plugs thread in. there are also pics of my maf wiring project. Its not going to well... i cant identify the 3 wires on the stock maf connector to be able to correctly splice them into the 4 wires from the Z32 maf. if anyone can help, id appreciate it. i also started a separate thread for the MAF in the RB forum. check it out!

Im also trying to figure out what all these connectors are on my harness. theres like 3 plugs that are taped up and not plugged in on the same side of the harness as the MAF. there like the next three plugs in line from the maf (Maf being the last plug on that strand) can any one identify these? my car does not use an ignitor, or have ABS, A/C, or cruise control. maybe that helps.

Thanks for looking everyone.-John


Modified by sickness14 at 9:29 PM 3/13/2009

[sickness14]

UPDATE

-alright so i got the maf wired in. -since the new head is at the machine shop, we used the old one as a mock up to make the downpipe and intercooler piping.-the manifold positions the turbo incorrectly and it hits the valve cover! the flange will have to be cut off and re-welded. the v-band is welded to the turbo and the downpipe it half way done.-the intercooler piping is not going to stay like it is in the pic, its just for a test.

enjoy!

[RB24D]

So far so good how long till you get your new head back?