Fix Thread turned into Re-build thread! (built rb25 neo)

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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sickness14
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S14-NEO wrote:decent job on the pics, i still think you going to have to measure the lash on each one of the lifters to see where you are at...you have from the sound of it at least a couple of them that arent within spec.
yeah for sure. i got it towed to a shop today, it should be looked at in the morning. i still havent found the clearance specs. is there any way for the technician to figure it out without them?



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xX RB Xx
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eh? wrote:
I'm wondering if that is the problem, they used the RB26 clearances instead of the R34 rb25. Using the RB26 clearances would put it out of spec but I don't know if it would cause a serious problem. Gotta find someone who can read japanese to figure out which is intake and which is exhaust..

Here's the clearances for the R34 RB25 in japanese.
actually they put the cams in backwards. so all the work was done with the cams in backwards.. i dont know how they mananged to do it that but they did. i know the person that worked on this car and they had rpm come out and make sure all the clearances were good and they said it was.

you could always hear the lifters on this car. you could always hear it tick.

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sickness14
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xX RB Xx wrote:
actually they put the cams in backwards. so all the work was done with the cams in backwards.. i dont know how they mananged to do it that but they did. i know the person that worked on this car and they had rpm come out and make sure all the clearances were good and they said it was.

you could always hear the lifters on this car. you could always hear it tick.
WOAH WHAT? cams are in backwards!?! how can this be? can anyone verify this? does it need to be switched back or anything? did RPM use R34 RB25 Clearances?

now im worried.

NPVR6
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I didnt read any of the upper posts.

But i had this exact noise once. And it was the fact that one of my lifters froze and was sticking, so i replaced it, and did not put in the correct size shim.

meaning the shim between the valve and the cam was the wrong size and I had to skim it down.

neonbomb
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WTF that aint your car thats bumbles car! lol

Im glad he finally sold it. Wonder what he's driving now?

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Coolwhip
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xX RB Xx wrote:actually they put the cams in backwards. so all the work was done with the cams in backwards.. i dont know how they mananged to do it that but they did. i know the person that worked on this car and they had rpm come out and make sure all the clearances were good and they said it was.

you could always hear the lifters on this car. you could always hear it tick.
Please explain as I see a CAS firmly installed and to my knowledge only one end of one cam (being the exhaust cam) has capabilities to accepting such a sensor.

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xX RB Xx
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sickness14 wrote:
WOAH WHAT? cams are in backwards!?! how can this be? can anyone verify this? does it need to be switched back or anything? did RPM use R34 RB25 Clearances?

now im worried.
no they arent in backwards.. they put them in backwards but Aaron (the guy who did all the work to the motor) put them back in the right way. RPM came out to make sure all the clearances we ok and they said it was.

I dont know how the screw the did that but they did. RPM had also messed up a few other cars in the area.

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xX RB Xx
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Coolwhip wrote:
Please explain as I see a CAS firmly installed and to my knowledge only one end of one cam (being the exhaust cam) has capabilities to accepting such a sensor.
no they in the correct way now.

RPM put the cams in backwards, so all the clearances were check with cams in backwards... and along with all the other head work. but this was noticed and the cams were put back in the right way, and rpm checked to see if the clearances we good and they said it was.


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sickness14
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xX RB Xx wrote:
no they in the correct way now.

RPM put the cams in backwards, so all the clearances were check with cams in backwards... and along with all the other head work. but this was noticed and the cams were put back in the right way, and rpm checked to see if the clearances we good and they said it was.
ok, so is this lifter noise something i should be worried about is the main question.


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S14-NEO
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yeah man just keep on doing what your doin and let us know what you find.

Mark

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sickness14
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I will be taking the car to this shop as soon as they are available to do the work (hopefully within a week). but until then, lets keep working towards solving any issues that i may be having. I think we are all contributing to making this car better by pouring in all of the knowledge that you all have been helping me with.

Any information about this car, the build, or advise is greatly appreciated. It's helping me a lot!

Thanks again everyone,John

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sickness14
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hey guys, quick update.

the car is at a buddies shop. the intake cam has been removed only to find really bad hotspots on the #6 piston cam lobes. there is also a few places where the cam lobes are chipped on the side. the lifters on the intake cam all have the same size shims on them so i dont think they are properly adjusted. well it looks like ill be ordering cams pretty soon then. oh darn... guess ill have to get the Tomei pon cams...

i also ordered an FC datalogit from rx7store.com but it is back ordered 2-3 weeks. hopefully i can get this running and get a decent base tune. when i looked at the power FC before we tore into the motor, it was adding in up to 50 degrees of timing around 2k rpm! geeez. we pulled the timing cover and crank pulley to find that each cam was off timing mark by at least 2 teeth. not sure how the motor was running with it like that, or how i made it back to raleigh for 9hrs! the computer was trying to correct this by advancing the timing on the base map out the ***.

the transmission is off the car, as the rear main seal and oil return tap from the head were leaking bad. looks like ill have to lower the motor a little more to be able to unthread the 90 degree fitting from the head and seal it when re-installing. what a PITA it was to get the transmission out! took hours. the pull type clutch was not very cooperative. also there was not much clearance between the firewall. after inspecting the clutch it looks fine, we thought the throw-out bearing was shot at first because it was crooked when we pulled the pressure plate off.

i took a bunch of pictures of all the angles i could snap. i got the new front end put on thanks to daniel of crown honda for supplying the parts from his green zenki when he was doing a kouki conversion. picked all the front end parts up for $100 minus the headlights i already had. (fender, bumper, bumper support, grill, corner lights, side markers, turn signals)

its getting there slowly but surely. im also in the process of picking up an energy suspension hyper-flex bushing kit from a local person here, the kit is missing a few swaybar bushings but for the majority has all the ones i need. (mainly the rear end is clunking around near the diff). ill be getting this soon, and having the car aligned as soon as the motor is all put back together and power FC is reset to learn the new setup.

OH YEAH and i almost forgot... I ordered a TOP-MOUNT MANIFOLD!!!! (from ebay but its all good because it will be re-stiched from top to bottom before installing) cant wait to get it. should be here tomorrow. ill block off the wastegate flange for now and use the stock turbo with all new water/oil lines and new turbo elbow.

ive got an entire master engine rebuild gasket kit as well. i just need to order a new 1.1mm cometic head gasket as soon as i find out if we're going to pull the head.

ill also be installing an oil pressure gauge while im in here re-routing turbo oil feed lines and stuff.

i deleted some of the remaining evap lines from the bay that were slapping around on the frame rail, and ill eventually re-do some of the engine harness wiring after all is said and done to eliminate lots of the dangling connectors and such.

the valve covers / spark plug covers / timing covers will all be cleaned up and hopefully painted (red and black, or blue and black, or red and polished, something like that... lol)

ill update this tomorrow, but until then... thanks for looking guys! keep me posted with info.




Modified by sickness14 at 4:49 PM 2/3/2009

Darius
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Don't you love cleaning up other people's messes...


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Carl H
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atleast the wiring was done right!

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sickness14
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Carl H wrote:atleast the wiring was done right!
Actually.... just kidding haha thanks carl, wiring looks great. no issues whatsoever.

look what came in the mail today... please excuse the crappy cell phone pics, its all i had at the time. ill update and replace these pics soon

heres a pic of the cams removed. the head is coming off tomorrow and going to a machine shop to get a valve job / resurfacing. the transmission will be put back on when the new throw out bearing spring is installed. the -10 AN head drain will be removed, and reinstalled properly to prevent leaks.

and as for the mani, ill use a block off plate for the wastegate port until i upgrade the turbo and go external WG. im pressed for money right now as i did not expect to do this much work right off the bat. id love to find a nice GT30R or similar to throw on there but i cant afford it and i still need injectors. ill probably be looking for a set of GTR 444cc injectors, as they are top feed like the ones that are in there now.



Modified by sickness14 at 4:50 PM 2/3/2009
Modified by sickness14 at 4:50 PM 2/3/2009

neonbomb
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screw you for getting those body pieces for so cheap!


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sickness14
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haha thanks, i looked for a while, and even ordered a set of Msport fenders before i found the whole front end so ive got a brand new pair of those sitting here. they're going to be for sale as soon as i can post up pics.

-John

mott6904
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Man what a mess. I hope you didnt pay to much for that car. Did the same shop build the bottom end also, if so i would be worried.

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sickness14
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mott6904 wrote:Man what a mess. I hope you didnt pay to much for that car. Did the same shop build the bottom end also, if so i would be worried.
I honestly think the guy (greg) put the block together. not sure of the quality of the build, hope its going to hold up else id be doing all of this for nothing.

exodus5547097
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what kind of exhaust manifold is that? where did you get it exactly?

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sickness14
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Need some help guys!!!

Ive got to replace the head gasket when i pull the head, and im trying to decide which to replace it with.

it currently has a cometic 1.1mm MLS MHG.there are many options on the cometic site for this motor, such as bore and thickness. ive figured out the bore (86) i think. and the thickness... .040 in translates to 1.1mm. is this the best to replace it with or should i go a different route.

thanks,

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sickness14
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Update - New pictures of painted valve cover and better pictures of the manifold. the center piece (spark plug cover) still needs to be clear coated so dont mind the streaky look. its late and ill have to finish tomorrow.



Modified by sickness14 at 9:01 PM 1/29/2009
Modified by sickness14 at 4:51 PM 2/3/2009

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sickness14
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exodus5547097 wrote:what kind of exhaust manifold is that? where did you get it exactly?
Believe it or not, its an ebay manifold. it was $170 shipped. i know, most of you are like WTF DUDE ebay mani on an RB? but its good quality, and will be getting re-welded, re-enforced, and will have some smoothing of ports if necessary. the flange alone to make a mani is $100 so you cant beat it.


exodus5547097
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please do update this because i want to see and how it performs from your opinion. ebay exhaust manifold lol.

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S14-NEO
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let me just give you a lil tid bit of info on those turbo manifolds. i too also have one of those manifolds on my NEO. BUT, you will need to do a few things to make it work the way its suppose to. for starters you better damn well make sure that the mounting flange is completely straight cause i can promise you there is not enough strength in your hands and arms to tighten that thing up enough to keep it from blowing gaskets..my advise to you is to take it and have it plained. the second thing is i know you are going to be running and internally gated turbo for the time being, but if you have any future plans on running an external gate like i am you will most def. have to move the location of the gate dump tube. where its at you WILL get major boost creep that will be uncontrolable.here is a pic of what i had to do in order to get my boost creep under control.notice where the gate pipe is coming out from..the turbo collector is the best place on that type of manifold and all other types of manifolds to best control boost creep for when you want to run an external gate. that gate piping setup is a flawed design.. reason being is that the exaust flow goes up thru the manifold collector to the turbo..when your gate opens up the exaust flowing to the gate will have to basically turn around and go the opposite way in order to get out thru the gate. that is pretty much impossible to do seems how the flow increases as your RPMS do and it will be trying to fight the natural flow of the exaust (which wont happen) thus you will never be able to control your boost properly..trust me i know, been there done that. so far two and half years with no cracks what so ever..plaining the manifold does wonders to keep the cracking from happening cause the manifold wont be under stress when the thing get glowing red hot..

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sickness14
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hey thanks a lot man. looks like our cars are almost twins. post your mod list when you get a chance so i can see how similar they are. they head is off the car now and im going by the shop tomorrow to take pics.

talk to you guys later!

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sickness14
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Update: Head is removed. Manifold does not line up right, needs some work. turbo is leaking oil... not good. cams look ok... may not have to replace them. cant see that any valves are bent because they all look like they are seated properly.

Also... we believe the ticking problem to be related to the oil drain in the head believe it or not. check this: so if the head drain is SO big that as soon as oil enters the head near the #6 cyl, it immediately drains out of the head drain, leaving the last couple of lobes on the cam dry, therefore creating hot spots, and wearing the cam lobe out creating a gap between the lifter and therefore tapping noise occurs. make any sense or am i way off?

check out the pics...PS: saw this on the way back from the shop to see my car. good day


Modified by sickness14 at 4:53 PM 2/3/2009

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dsrturbo.com
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i see youv blocked off your side briver ( excuse my spelling..) anyway i see you have blocked it off with are rubber bung..

Is it ok to do this? Because I'm not sure to do with my own.. Block it off as you have done or some how plug it into the plenum for vacum??

Is your catch tanks etc working ok?

tah

http://www.driftsideracing.com...34GTT

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Carl H
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the cam caps in a pile worry me...i hope you have them marked in the order they came out.

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Shocker
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Carl H wrote:the cam caps in a pile worry me...i hope you have them marked in the order they came out.
Neo motors don't stamp the order on the cap I/E (1-7?)


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