Dude sweet.. KA supercharger kit!!

[hybrid_flyer]

Y. WATER INJECTION IS ONLY USED AT FULL THROTTLE

does that mean i have to loosen the lead foot cuz I am at WOT a lot?? Also what kind of alcohol is used?

yeah and the other question was already asked how long for install time, for a decent mechanic (which i like to think I am)?

[SCMASTER]

THE CRANK PULLEY SHOULD REMAIN THE STOCK SIZE. AN UNDERDRIVE PULLEY WILL SPIN THE EATON SLOWER MAKING LESS BOOST. INSTALLATION SHOULD TAKE 10 HRS OR SO. REMOVING THE LOWER MANIFOLD IS THE FUN PART. ONCE THAT IS REMOVED, IT GOES PRETTY FAST. THINK OF THE W/A LIKE YOUR FUEL TANK. IF YOU RACE AN IMAGINARY FOE AT EVERY STOP SIGN, EVERY STOP LIGHT, AND EVERY TIME YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR, WHAT MPG WILL YOU GET? 8, 10, MPG AT BEST? SAME FOR THE W/A AS WELL AS YOUR EATON BLOWN CAR. REMEMBER THAT AT 7 PSI YOU EFFECTIVELY RAISE THE ENGINE'S DISPLACEMENT 50% FROM A 2.4 TO A 3.6. AT FULL THROTTLE A 3.6 WILL USE 50% MORE FUEL THAN A 2.4, AND THE REAL BENEFIT IS YOU ONLY HAVE A 3.6 WHEN YOU FLOOR IT. THE REST OF THE TIME YOU GET SIMILAR MILAGE TO STOCK. USUALLY IT IS 1/2 MPG LESS THAN STOCK. THE EATON USES 1/3HP TO SPIN IT WHILE CRUISING, SO IT IS NOT A PARASITIC DRAG ON THE ENGINE. ANOTHER REASON FOR THIS EATON KIT WAS TO REPLACE AND COMPETE WITH THE COMMON SR20DET SWAP. MOST JAPANESE ENGINES HAVE NO DOCUMENTED HISTORY, SO IT IS ALWAYS A GAMBLE WHETHER IT IS DECENT MILAGE, HAS A GOOD TURBO, ETC. THE HASSLE OF TRANSPLANTING A SUPPOSED 40K LOW MILAGE SR20DET JDM ENGINE, AND THEN FINDING OUT THE TURBO IS BAD, THE ENGINE HAS A SLIGHT KNOCK, ETC IS FAR TOO COMMON. A WEEDEND PROJECT TURNS INTO A SIX MONTH NIGHTMARE AS YOU REMOVE THE NEW ENGINE, GET ANOTHER ONE, REPLACE OR REPAIR IT, ETC ETC. I WENT THROUGH THIS MANY TIMES WITH JDM ENGINES. THE BS AND FRAUD PERPETRATED BY THE JDM ENGINE IMPORTERS IS HORRENDOUS. NOT TO SAY THEY ARE ALL BAD PEOPLE, IT IS A SIMPLE FACT THAT JDM ENGINES CAN'T BE DOCUMENTED FOR MILAGE. ONCE DETERMINED THAT THE VEHICLE IS 'UNREPAIRABLE' BY YHE JAP GOVERNMENT, THE CAR IS IMMEDIATELY DISSASSEMBLED AND WAREHOUSED WITH NO REGARD FOR MILAGE, REASON FOR UNREPAIRABLE STATUS. ETC. THE IDEA THAT JAPS ONLY DRIVE 4-5 K/YR IS INSANE. A 20 YR OLD ENGINE COULD EASILY HAVE 250K ON IT. WITH THE ORIGINAL KA24DE, YOU KNOW EXACTLY THE MILAGE. YOU COULD REALISTICALLY HAVE THE KA BUILT WITH FORGED INTERNALS, INSTALL THE EATON, AND HAVE 350HP/350TQ WITH UNBELIEVABLE RELIABILITY. SO WHAT IF YOUR JDM SR20DET HAND GRENADE MADE 450HP FOR SIX MONTHS BEFORE IT TOASTED? YOU SPENT $3K ON THE TURBO AND FMIC/PIPES UPGRADE, , $3500 FOR THE JDM SWAP, AND NOW HAVE A USELESS VEHICLE. THE KA WILL RUN 12 PSI ON A BUILT ENGINE FOR 150K MILES, AND YOU LITERALLY WONT BE ABLE TO KILL IT. IT SHOULD RUN HIGH 11'S, AND DO THAT WITH A/C, FULL INTERIOR, AUDIO AT FULL BLAST, ETC. WHILE THE SR20DET GUYS ARE TRYING TO FIX THEIR CAR FOR THE 200TH TIME THIS MONTH, YOU DRIVE OFF WITH YOUR BABE INTO THE SUNSET LIKE THE HERO BOTH OF YOU THINK YOU ARE :-)

[Bigvinnie]

THIS TAKES ADDITIONAL INERTIA AND CRANK POWER TO ASSIST THE PISTON IN PUSHING THE MIX OUT. THE FORMULA FOR THAT IS {[(CID X RPM/2) X PSI] /396,000} % IN/EX PRESSURE RATIO. SO LETS DO SOME MATH.180CID X 6000RPM/2 X 10 PSI/396,000 /1:2.7. THIS MEANS WE ARE LOSING 35HP TO BACKPRESSURE. NOW WE LOOK AT AN SC. THERE IS NO PRESSURE AFTER COMBUSTION, SO WE ADD THIS POWER TO THE FORMULA.180 X 6000 X 10/2 /396,000. SO WE GAIN 13HP JUST FROM THAT. SO NOW WE MUST CALCULATE THE ADDITIONAL HP LOSSES FROM SPINNING THE SC.PSI X CFM /229/AE OF SUPERCHARGER. 450CFM X 10 PSI / 229 /70% AE = 28 HP + 2HP BELT FRICTION LOSSES. SO WE HAVE A 30HP CRANK POWER LOSS WITH THE SC, BUT WE SUBTRACT 13HP FROM THE INTAKE STROKE PISTON PUSH WHICH MEANS THE SC ONLY USES A NET 17 CRANK HP. THE TURBO LOSES 35HP-13HP, OR 22HP TO BACKPRESSURE. SO WHY DO TURBOS MAKE MORE POWER? USUALLY BECAUSE THEY ARE INTERCOOLED WHICH RAISES THE AE, AND USUALLY BECAUSE THEY RUN HIGHER BOOST.

Im still abit lost in your equation. It makes perfect sence to the calculation that you used for power loss. But not one engine is equal to another. What I mean by this is pulley dampening systems in which some pull more degredation loss than others, and to where some dampening systems can be more effecient in delivering power that could of been lost. There are other instances into the size of the pulleys in which there is the stock crank Pulley to size X of the S/C. There are also harmonic ineffeciencie's that should be discussed adding aditional belt driven components to the crank assembly (which dampening plays a key roll. You would think that as RPM's increase this only effects dampening, to the instance that when RPM increases it only disturbs or agitates the the harmonics of the crank. You did state that after a awile it is a trade off at 14 PSI between turbo charging to S/C, would this be the reason?BTW I saw a cobalt ss run a 15.1 in the 1/4 mile not bad for a stocker S/C on a mildly 90* weather day, humidity sucked as well (this was at infineon raceway on wednesday).This super charged car runs a 14.6, 1/4mile time on good days. Thats better than a stocker silvia sr20det on stock boost (7psi) runs a 14.9 on good days.


Modified by Bigvinnie at 9:33 AM 7/15/2006

[SCMASTER]

Im still abit lost in your equation. It makes perfect sence to the calculation that you used for power loss. But not one engine is equal to another. What I mean by this is pulley dampening systems in which some pull more degredation loss than others, and to where some dampening systems can be more effecient in delivering power that could of been lost. There are other instances into the size of the pulleys in which there is the stock crank Pulley to size X of the S/C. There are also harmonic ineffeciencie's that should be discussed adding aditional belt driven components to the crank assembly (which dampening plays a key roll. You would think that as RPM's increase this only effects dampening, to the instance that when RPM increases it only disturbs or agitates the the harmonics of the crank. You did state that after a awile it is a trade off at 14 PSI between turbo charging to S/C, would this be the reason?BTW I saw a cobalt ss run a 15.1 in the 1/4 mile not bad for a stocker S/C on a mildly 90* weather day, humidity sucked as well (this was at infineon raceway on wednesday).This super charged car runs a 14.6, 1/4mile time on good days. Thats better than a stocker silvia sr20det on stock boost (7psi) runs a 14.9 on good days.

Modified by Bigvinnie at 9:33 AM 7/15/2006

THE TYPICAL SERPENTINE BELT LOSS IS 1-2 HP AT MAX POWER. WHETHER THE CRANK HARMONICS ARE DAMPENED BY THE PULLEY OR NOT WONT DO ANYTHING DIFFERENT TO THE ENGINE WITH OR WITHOUT A BLOWER. THE HARMONIC BALANCER WILL HAVE BEEN DESIGNED TO OFFSET BELT SLAP AND CRANK HARMONICS, SO ADDING AN EATON WILL NOT CHANGE THAT AT ALL. WHILE EVERY ENGINE REACTS DIFFERENTLY RO BOOST, ALL CAN USE THE SAME FORMULAS FOR APPROXIMATE FLOW LOSSES, AND HP GAINS. THE FORMULAS I QUOTE ARE STANDARD THERMODYNAMIC EQUATIONS, AND WILL BE FOUND IN ANY ENGINEER'S LIBRARY. THE REASON A TURBO STARTS TO PULL AWAY AT 14 PSI IS BACKPRESSURE LOSSES VS CRANK PULLEY HP LOSSES. AT LOWER BOOST THE BACKPRESSURE ROBS A HIGH PERCENTAGE OF POWER, WHILE A BLOWER IS AT PEAK EFFICIENCY. A BLOWER'S EFFICIENCY WILL DROP AS BOOST INCREASES, WHILE A TURBO'S EFFICIENCY IS LEVEL SO BACKPRESSURE LOSS WILL BE 100% LINEAR. THIS MEANS THE HP TO TURN THE BLOWER IS EXPONENTIAL, AND THE TURBO LOSSES ARE LINEAR TO BOOST. ONE BENEFIT TO A TURBO IS THAT YOU CAN LESSEN THE BACKPRESSURE LOSS RATIO WITH BALL BEARING TURBOS, LARGER AND MORE PROPERLY MATCHED TRIM AND A/R HOUSINGS, ETC. BUT FOR THE SIMPLICITY AND DRIVABILITY ON A DAILY DRIVEN STOCK VEHICLE, IT IS HARD TO BEAT A SUPERCHARGER.

[s13rb25det]

any more news on these kits? were can I view the finished product?

[TravisD]

I went to the website, and all I saw were electric superchargers.

[s13rb25det]

yeah I only saw electric superchargers also! cant find them with a google search either

[SCMASTER]

Orders can be placed through my website, but ultimately there will be a dedicated website directed at only Nissan sc kits, etc. My boosthead.com site will be a temporary location for orders of the Eaton KA24DE kits. It will allow for paypal payments, etc. You may wish to phone us at 786-243-2000

[JesusLikesKFC]

how much will u be charging for a base kit eeaton? whats involved? i know somebody who is very interested. Also have to admit this really is getting my attention too. Checked your site and only came up with electric/ alternator belt driven centifugal type.

[7anshin]

Forgive my ignorance here but I want to learn… What is the difference power wise between the belt driven turbo and the belt driven supercharger? (Yes I understand that superchargers are belt driven and a turbo is usually driven by the exhaust gasses, I want to know the difference in power loss/gain, torque/loss gain… All the average this is better than this because of *blank*. BD vs BD)

If this has been covered in this post all ready, forgive me. I tend to forget, and it seems as if I have been reading this post for ages.

[crackler]

The belt triven "turbo" is a cintrifugal(sp?) super charger, The other one you are referring to is an eaton roots blower (there is also a twin screw style{similliar to a roots style}, and I believe at least a third or fourth style, [I know VW used a diffrent style S/C for some of their VR6's])(Some one feel free to correct any of this if I am mistaken). Roots and twin screw blowers make max boost just off idle, cintrifugal s/c builds boost similliar to a turbo, but it is belt driven instead of exhuast gas driven.

[7anshin]

Great info, thank you.

Learning more every day.

[CCurate]

Do you know what you plan on using( as in selling with the kit) to deliver the extra fuel that will be needed to keep a/f ratios right. I know right now you have bigger injectors. I was just curious what method you planned on using. Also, if I was to use bigger injectors would it be possible to use a piggyback for tuning. I have a JWT ECU. they will program the ecu for me if i tell them what size the injectors are. I've heard that JWT ECU's for turboare notorious for runnig rich. This is just on point i have heard to be decieded on yet. I know you were leanin towards adding injectors but i didn;t catch if that was the way you were defiantly going.

[ShionS14]

so when are we going to get more info dyno charts vids all that snazzy stuff? the website doesn't have anything up yet other than an update

[SCMASTER]

WE FINALLY RECEIVED THE NEW UPGRADED CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL, AND INSTALLED IT 90% THIS EVENING. THE CAR WILL BE RUNNING IN THE MORNING, AND WE WILL TEST IT OUT AND THEN DYNO TESTS WILL CONTINUE TOMORROW AFTERNOON. THE FUEL SYSTEM FOR THE KIT WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE NEEDS OF THE BUYER. IF YOU LIVE IN CAL AND WANT TO RUN A BUILT ENGINE WHERE THERE IS NO CHANCE OF GETTING 550'S TO PASS A CARB TEST, OR YOU HAVE AN OBD2 VEHICLE, YOU SHOULD EXPECT TO RUN ADDITIONAL INJECTORS. FOR MOST ALL OTHER BUYERS WITH STOCK ENGINES, WE WILL SUGGEST 370'S WITH A MODDED ECU. 550'S WILL BE FOR THOSE RUNNING 9+ PSI OR WITH BUILT ENGINES AS 370'S SUPPORT ABOUT 260-275 FLYWHEEL HP MAX. AS MUCH AS SOME OF YOU HAVE DISDAIN FOR THE SIMPLE FMU, THOSE CAN WORK INCREDIBLY WELL ON AUTO TRANS CARS RUNNING 5-6 PSI BOOST. SO WE WILL WORK TO MAXIMIZE THE SYSTEM FOR EACH ORDER. NO NEED TO SPEND MONEY ON UNNECESSARY PARTS.

[Red coupe]

Very cool!You mentioned Carb...can you guys actualy get these kits fully legit in cali? gonna have to bookmark that page if so..

I didn't make it though the whole post so I dont now if there was a good excuse, but the caps are so hard to read!

[TravisD]

I'm very excited about this. I just built an engine, and I'm scrapping my turbo plans. I will buy one of these kits in a few months. Is there need for an oil feed/return line to be added? How is the S/C lubricated/cooled?

[scruffy63]

THE COMPLETE KIT ($2995) WILL HAVE A RACE PORTED SUPERCHARGER, RACE PORTED UPPER MANIFOLD, RACE PORTED ADAPTER, RACE PORTED THROTTLE BODY ADAPTER, IDLER PULLEY BRACKET, IDLER PULLEY, THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET, AIC AND AAC REMOTE ADAPTERS, BELT, HOSES AND CLAMPS, COLD AIR PIPES & HOSES, MASS AIR ADAPTER, AIR FILTER, OIL FILTER, BOOST GAUGE, A/F GAUGE, FUEL SYSTEM (EITHER LARGER INJECTGORS WITH AN SAFC, OR DAUGHTERBOARD ECU, OR ADDITIONAL INJECTORS AND AIC).

THE ADAPTER KIT INCLUDES THE STANDARD SUPERCHARGER ADAPTER, STANDARD SUPERCHARGER ADAPTER, THROTTLE BODY ADAPTER, IDLER PULLEY BRACKET, IDLER PULLEY, THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET, AIC AND AAC REMOTE ADAPTERS, BELT, GASKETS, AND HARDWARE.

ok I have 2 questions is it safe to assume the full kit will have all of the above?

And what is the difference in using larger injectors vs. additional injectors?( which one is better/easier/efficiant)

[moyea]

I assume using a strut tower bar is out of the question?



No more caps lock, please.

[SCMASTER]

NOW, HERE IS THE FIRST SET OF DYNO RUNS. LOOK AT TWO THINGS--MORE TORQUE THAN A STOCK MOTOR AT 1400 RPM (THAT IS RIGHT, TURBO LOVERS--1400RPM!!!), AND A TORQUE CURVE YOU WONT BELIEVE. I DIDN'T PRINT OUT THE LAST TWO RUNS DUE TO TIME RESTRICTIONS, BUT WE ALSO TOPPED THE RUNS TODAY AT 212.7 HP AND 217.9 TQ RUNNING 7 PSI. ALSO FOUND A 3.5" PRESSURE DROP ACROSS THE STOCK AIR METER STARTING AT 4500 RPM. A MAXIMA MAF IS IMPERATIVE, AS THAT WILL TRANSLATE INTO 1.5 MORE PSI BOOST IN THE MANIFOLD, AND ANOTHER 12-15 HP AT THE WHEELS. LOOKS LIKE 250/250 IS NOT TOO FAR AWAY--REMEMBER--THIS IS NOT A RACE PORTED SETUP, AND WE ARE NOWHERE NEAR DONE WITH TUNING, WATER INJECTION, ETC. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LARGER INJECTORS W/MODDED ECU AND ADDITIONAL INJECTORS AND AIC IS BASICALLY A PREFERENCE OF THE TUNER. I LIKE EXTRA INJECTORS AND AN AIC FOR THE SIMPLICITY OF TUNING, THE FACT THAT DRIVABILITY WILL BE AS STOCK, AND THAT IT WILL PASS EMISSIONS IN A LARGER NUMBER OF CASES THAN LARGER INJECTORS. I ALSO LIKE THE FACT THAT YOU CAN ALSO RUN WATER/ALCOHOL INJECTION WITH THE AIC ALLOWING FOR A SIMPLE W/A KIT FOR $100 OR SO FOR THE PUMP, RESERVOIR, AND INJECTOR. HOWEVER, SOME PEOPLE PREFER LARGER INJECTORS (JWT, ETC) AND ARE PROFICIENT IN TUNING THEM. A STRUT TOWER BRACE COULD BE MODIFIED TO STILL WORK, BUT IT WON'T BOLT ON. AS WE FOUND OUT TODAY DURING SOME 'SPIRITED' TEST DRIVING, AN ENGINE STRUT BRACE TO AUGMENT THE ENGINE MOUNTS WOULD HELP A LOT. WE BROKE A NEW MOUNT DURING TESTING ON THE DRIVERS SIDE.
Modified by SCMASTER at 8:34 PM 7/22/2006

[turbo300]

slightly smaller::

[CCurate]

just curious b/c this was my original plan. What kind of problems/power would you run into if you were to increase the displacement to 2.6 Ltrs? also how much difficulity are you having tuning this beast w/larger injectors.

[Florida240sx]

Be nice to have a Built KA with this on it. Still subjective to my turbo but boost is boost no matter how you get it.....

[SCMASTER]

just curious b/c this was my original plan. What kind of problems/power would you run into if you were to increase the displacement to 2.6 Ltrs? also how much difficulity are you having tuning this beast w/larger injectors.

TUNING EACH RPM SETTING IS TEDIOUS. ONCE FINALIZED, THE PROGRAM WILL BE OPTIMAL, AND OF COURSE WE WILL HAVE IT SAVED FOR FUTURE INSTALLATIONS AND KITS. EACH ADJUSTMENT ADDS A FEW HP HERE AND THERE. A LARGER DISPLACEMENT WILL MEAN SLIGHTLY LOWER BOOST WITH THE SAME PULLEY AS THE SMALLER ENGINE. NO BIG DEAL, AS WE ARE USING THE FRONTIER STANDARD PULLEY TO ACHIVE 7 PSI. WHEN A LARGER MAF, PORTED MANIFOLD AND ADAPTER, PORTED UNIT, WATER/ALCOHOL INJECTION, ETC ARE ALL DONE, BOOST WILL CLIMB TO APPROX 10 PSI. A 2.6 WOULD SEE ABOUT 7 PSI WITH ALL THE SAME MODS. MANY PEOPLE DONT REALIZE THAT A SUPERCHARGER IS A FIXED AMOUNT AIR PUMP, AND SO IS YOUR ENGINE AT SIMILAR EFFICIENCIES. IF THE ENGINE IS PORTED AND STROKED, WHILE THE BLOWER REMAINS STOCK, BOOST WILL DROP. IF THE BLOWER AND MANIFOLD ARE PORTED WHILE THE ENGINE REMAINS STOCK, BOOST WILL INCREASE. THE BEST EVIDENCE THAT THE SYSTEM IS GETTING CLOSE TO MAX BOOST & POWER IS WHEN LITTLE CHANGES IN TUNING OFFERS NO HP GAINS. AT THIS TIME EVERY CHANGE OFFERS 2-3 MORE HP, AND IN THE LAST FEW RUNS LAST EVENING ONE CHANGE ADDED 6 HP AND 10 TQ. NONE OF YOU CAN BEGIN TO IMAGINE HOW MUCH BETTER THIS DESIGN RESPONDS THAN ANY TURBO/ENGINE ALTERNATIVE (EXCEPT FOR A Q ENGINE IN ONE). YOU BLIP THE THROTTLE AND THE CAR IS SIDEWAYS. LIKE THAT DRIFTING VIDEO OF THE RACE PREPPED RHD SR20DE THAT IS SUPERCHARGED, THIS CAR RESPONDS VIRTUALLY THE SAME WAY. WE ARE GETTING 4 PSI AT 1400 RPM. PORTING WILL ACTUALLY RAISE THAT ANOTHER 1-2 PSI. THE TQ NUMBERS CURRENTLY DROPPING AT 4500 RPM IS DUE TO NO PORTING AND THE RESTRICTIVE MAF. THE HP CURVE WILL CONTINUIE UPWARDS AS RPM INCREASES PEAKING AT ABOUT 6700 RPM, WHILE TORQUE WILL BE HIGHER AND FLATTER FROM 2800 TO 6000

[2FAS2C]

Can this be mounted to an after market intake mani such as the the one from xcessive motorsports? If so does it add any benefits over the ported stock mani?

[tloof]

My supercharging project should be of interest to many of you in this forum.

I was working on a supercharger conversion for the single cam KA24E engine that I swapped into my '85 Nissan 720 pickup about 8 years ago. At the time I used a '95 truck variant of the KA24E with an '89 240SX intake manifold & remote mass air flow meter swapped onto it (the truck block is required to fit in the 720 chassis due to its rear sump oil pan, and the 240SX intake actually fits better in the 720 than the Hardbody truck intake...+ it was good for an additional 6 hp over the truck intake system).

Anyway, for an even greater power increase I later decided I was going to eventually convert to a twin cam KA24DE from the '98 up Frontier truck (once again the use of the truck version of that engine block is required to fit in the 720 chassis) that I would also convert to 240SX status with the use of the more aggressive 240SX cams & intake system. After a good long hard look at what all was required & the costs to convert over to the twin cam version of the KA24 engine, I thought about just supercharging the single cam KA24E that I already had swapped into it, since that would make way more power than a NA twin cam KA24DE engine would make anyway. I looked at using the M90 Eaton blower from a '90-'95 Ford Thunderbird but it was really a bit too large for the 2.4L size of the KA24 series engines. At the time it appeared that the single cam KA24E actually had a better intake manifold layout for bolting on the Thunderbird M90 Eaton supercharger than the twin cam KA24DE engine did anyway. This could be done by eliminating the top plenum with a custom made plenum adapter plate that the M90 Eaton blower could be bolted onto, and then some sort of custom rear inlet duct made to bolt the throttle body, remote recirculation valve, & idle air controller onto. Since the single cam 240SX KA24E lower intake runners come off the head by running downward at first & then turning up to run ito the top plenum, this idea was a very workable one that fit under the hood of my 720 truck (on the otherhand, the twin cam 240SX KA24DE intake does just the opposite, so it was virtually impossible to mount the larger Thunderbird M90 supercharger on it without making an entirely new custom intake that would of cost lots of money & time to make!!!).

I later saw the M62 Eaton blower that comes on the '01-'04 Nissan Frontier & Xterra Supercharged 3.3L V6's, and realized that it was absolutely PERFECT for any KA24E (or KA24DE) conversion, as it eliminates alot of the fabrication problems that the Ford Thunderbird M90 blower presented! To start with, it is just the right size for any 2.4L engine since it is an M62 instead of a M90 Eaton blower. It also has a built-in recirculation valve, as well as a built-in rear inlet section that has a mounting flange for the air inlet on the left side of the blower case 90 degrees from the centerline of the engine (as mounted on the 3.3L V6 it comes off of). Not only that, but it has a bit of internal plenum space already built into the bottom of the blower case casting, and has external mounting bosses on the case that allow bolting the case down to a flat plate from the top side of the blower itself. This allows a VERY simple 1/2"-1" thick aluminum plate that is either flat if a 1/2" plate is used or milled out about 1/2" deep in its center section if a 1" plate is used (to form a bit more plenum volume) to be cut out and mounted directly to the KA24E's in-line runner lower intake manifold (or the KA24DE's upper intake if the supercharger is mounted under it), and in turn allowing the Frontier's M62 Eaton blower to be bolted to this aluminum plate such that the stock drive pulley lines up with the outermost drive pulley on the crankshaft dampner. Since the blower case itself already has an integral recirculation valve built in to it, and the back of the case already has a 90 degree inlet built into the casting, then only a special inlet adapter needs to be made from a flat aluminum plate that the throttle body & idle air controller (from the stock 240SX) can bolt to. This would allow the air inlet with mass air flow meter to come in from the drivers side and cross over the top rear of the KA24E engine (or the KA24DE engine) and then enter the blower thru the throttle body via some sort of inlet elbow.

Now, it is very simple to drive the blower by simply changing out the outer drive pulley (the one that normally drives the power steering pulley) on the two piece KA24E crank dampener (if a Frontier KA2DE is used then the stock one piece dampener will have to be replaced with a two piece KA24E crank dampener) with a custom made 6 groove serpentine pulley (that only cost me $90 to have custom made by a company in Stafford, Texas that makes SC pulleys for the industry), and then relocating & replacing the power steering pump to serve as an idler pulley for the bower drive belt onto the drivers side of the engine for a KA24E conversion, or leave it in the stock Frontier position and mount an idler pulley to the Frontier's support bracket between the power steering pump & front head cover on the KA24DE conversion. I have found that it is best to use a power steering pump from an Altima as it already has a 6 groove pulley and also has the discharge hose oriented correctly for the KA24E engine conversion. Of course that is the toughest part of that conversion, as a special custom bracket is required to be made to mount the power steering pump over the top side of the KA24E's distributor, but as it turns out it isn't actually too bad to accomplish. For the KA24DE conversion it is even simpler to mount an idler on the existing power steering support bracket that comes on the frontier KA24DE series engine, but the temp sensors have to be relocated on the top side of the water passage runner on the manifold when a 240SX intake is used in order to clear the Frontier's power steering pump.

The only other mods required for this supercharger conversion would be to the ECU & fuel injection system. Currently, I am considering going instead with the KA24DE version (rather than the KA24E engine) with the supercharger mounted virtually the same as is mentioned in this thread as SCMaster has posted thus allowing me to upgrade to SR type or 300Z TT 370cc injectors operated by a reprogrammed JWT ECU that I picked up recently, along with a larger capacity Wallbro fuel pump (unfortunately there is no 370cc injectors that will fit in the KA24E fuel rail, so I would have to go to upgrade to more expensive 550cc injectors that JWT modifies to fit on that fuel rail to make it work). I expect a final power output somewhere around 220 hp at the crank @ 6-7 psi total boost without intercooler. The entire cost for this conversion is currently right at $1000 for everything at this time, which includes a rebuilt Frontier/Xterra blower, custom crank pulley, idler pulley with brackets, custom adapter plate, 370cc injectors, Walbro pump, & reprogrammed JWT ECU (I got the JWT ECU used for $300). The adapter mounting plate is fairly easy to make as long as you buy a tool & die aluminum plate to make it out of since they come with a milled flat tolerance of between .001-.002" (this eliminates having to mill it flat yourself). The cost of the size plate to fit the Frontier blower was around $75 for a 1" thick plate and about $35 for a 1/2" thick plate.

The only other issue I ran into on the KA24DE onversion is that the blower case just hits the oil filter if an adapter any thicker than 1/2" is used. Also, it is best to use a Frontier oil filter adapter since it provides the most clearance due to the fact that it points slightly downward & slightly forward (just behind the alternator) and uses a very small diameter filter can as well. I'm looking at mounting a remote filter adapter on to it so that I can gain even more clearance and thus be able to use a 1" thick plate with additional plenum volume milled into it in order to increase the SC flow due to less restriction.

Anyway, it is actually very simple to make your own conversion for no more than about $1200 total investment in my opinion for the Frontier truck version of the DE engine, but I suspect that the 240SX version could be done for that cost as well (though the drive system would have to be slightly different from how I am doing it on the truck version DE engine!).
Modified by tloof at 8:51 PM 7/24/2006

[scruffy63]

Hey do you have any pics of this set up. You lost me with the belts. Is it possible to move the power steering pump? If so, how. also in the 240 I don't the could be run anywhere behind the motor. Also does the blower have to have an idler pulley?

ps: I'd suggest starting your own thread before you get somebody yells at you.

[SCMASTER]

WHILE I APPRECIATE SOME STORY ABOUT THE SIMPLICITY OF THIS DESIGN, THESE STATEMENTS ABOUT A COMPLETE SYSTEM BEING SIMPLE TO MAKE ARE COMPLETELY PREPOSTEROUS, AND PLACEING THE RIDICULOUS DOLLAR AMOUNT ON FABRICATING A KIT IS MISLEADING AT BEST. IN MY EYES YOU DO A DISSERVICE TO THE 240 COMMUNITY WITH THE TOTAL EXCLUSION OF THE FACTS. I NOTICED MANY STATEMENTS ABOUT 'COULD DO', AND 'WOULD WORK', BUT IT SOUNDS AS IF YOU NEVER ACTUALLY BUILT ONE. THOSE OUT THERE WHO HAVE FABRICATION SKILLS--ABOUT 1/2% OF THE READERS AND VEHICLE OWNERS, YOU DO AN INJUSTICE TO THOSE WITH NO TOOLS OR KNOWLEDGE ON HOW TO BUILD A KIT. BUYING A 1/2" PLATE OF ALUMINUM AND MAKING THE ADAPTER IS NOT A SIMPLE TASK. ARE YOU PLANNING ON THEM USING A HAND HELD DRILL, DREMEL TOOL, AND SAWS-ALL TO CUT THE PLATE? IF IT WAS SO SIMPLE TO DO, WHY AM I THE FIRST COMPANY TO PRODUCE A KIT THAT IS REASONABLY PRICED? I AM NOT A CHARITABLE ORGANIZATION DETERMINED TO SUPERCHARGER EVERY 240 FOR FREE AT NO PROFIT BECAUSE I THINK YOU ARE ALL GREAT PEOPLE. IT WAS A BUSINESS DECISION. AS I HAVE STATED SEVERAL TIMES ALREADY, I HAVE PUT HUNDREDS OF HOURS INTO THIS DESIGN, YET I SEE PEOPLE WAXING ELOQUENTLY ABOUT HOW SIMPLE THEY ARE TO MAKE. THOSE WHO COME ALONG WITH AFTER-THE-FACT IDEAS STATING THEY HAD A SIMILAR PLAN MAY BE WELL INTENTIONED, BUT COMPLETELY IMMATERIAL TO THE FACTS. IT IS A FACT THAT THE CNC PROGRAMMING AND TRIALS OF HUNDREDS OF DIFFERENT DESIGNS AND ATTEMPTS WOULD COST MOST PEOPLE WELL OVER $5K TO BUILD ONE, WITH UTTER FRUSTRATION AND DISGUST OCCURING IN 99% OF THOSE WHO TRIED. IT IS A FACT THAT MY EXPERIENCE WILL RESULT IN A DESIGN THAT IS BETTER THAN 99.9% OF ENTHUSIASTS COULD OBTAIN. IT IS A FACT THAT NONE OF YOU OWN A DYNO FOR TRUE TESTING. IT IS A FACT WE WILL MAKE MORE HP THAN ANYONE ELSE FROM THIS DESIGN. IT IS A FACT THAT 99.9% OF OWNERS COULD NEVER BUILD A KIT FOR UNDER $3K, AND I DONT CARE WHAT ANECDOTAL CRAP STORY YOU GIVE ABOUT THE COST. IT IS A FACT THAT MY PORTING AND MASSAGING OF THE EATON BLOWER IS BETTER THAN ANYONE ELSE COULD DO--PLAIN AND SIMPLE. MY PREVIOUS STATEMENT WILL BE SUBJECTED TO SCRUTINY ONLY IF MAGNUSON PRODUCTS OR 'THE OLD ONE' AT ENDYNE DECIDE TO PORT ONE (AT A COST OF $1000 PLUS). IT IS A FACT THAT WE HAVE COVERED EVERY ASPECT OF THE KIT FROM BEGINNNG TO END, RESULTING IN A KIT THAT TRULY WILL MEASURE UP TO ANYBODY'S EXPECTATIONS. IT IS A FACT THAT I HAVEN'T SEEN ANYONE ELSE ACTUALLY COMPLETE A SIMILAR KIT, SO UNTIL I AM CORRECTED, I WILL STATE I AM THE FIRST. MY APOLOGIES TO THOSE WHO DONT UNDERSTAND HOW ABSURD THE THREADS ABOUT THE 'SIMPLICITY AND LOW COST' OF THIS DESIGN IS. THERE ARE THOSE IN LIFE WHO MUST CRITICIZE ACCOMPLISHMENTS OF OTHERS TO COMPENSATE FOR THE LACK OF ACCOMPLISHMENTS IN THEIR OWN LIVES. AS I HAVE STATED BEFORE, THEY TALK BUT NEVER ACTUALLY DESIGN A BLASTED THING. I USED TO CALL THEM THE 'ROOSTERS' OF THE INTERNET--CROWING AT ALL HOURS OF THE NIGHT, YET HAVING LITTLE EFFECT EXCEPT ANNOYING THOSE WHO WANT TO GET A GOOD NIGHTS REST :-)

[Red coupe]

Im trying to read your posts, and your opinion is of interest to me but please please for the sake of my eyes and sanity turn the caps lock off!

I never saw an answere about your kit being CARB legal?

[TravisD]

Don't get worked up about the naysaying. There will always be "THOSE IN LIFE WHO MUST CRITICIZE". I think most of us don't doubt that a custom designed, well tested and thought out kit by someone as experienced as you is worth money. Especially when it's the first. You are right, there has been a lot of talk on this forum for years (at least the two I've been here) about supercharging the KA but little action. So, speaking of well tested, I'm excited to see the dyno. Keep the progress coming. Some of us are very excited to see where you get with this. Like I said, I will definitely buy a kit from you when you are done fine tuning. And I save up some cash. I just dropped 3K on an engine rebuild and I want to do some more suspension work first.P.S. Kill the Caps Lock! There's no need to yell