Changing Knock Sensor on FGY33

[Mopar]

Well I am going crazy with my car once again,

Now I got to do the knock sensors since I have CEL codes for them, and my car feels like it has a four cylinder engine. I have searched and searched including the FSM but can not find where they are located on the car. If anyone has any experience or pictures or anything helpful regarding this please do share.

Thank you

[3Q Jay]

there are two, they are down in the valley below the lower plenum. it is possible to do them without removing the plenum, but if you want your car to run it's best, take the time and perform full intake and EGR cleaning while you are in there. Replace the ks harness, too. don't forget the assortment of small gaskets needed-- driver's side valve cover is also a piece of cake to do if you do it while plenum is off.

[Mopar]

So they are both under the plenum? how would I find them?

[paranoidjack]

This might help you. I put a walkthrough of the job on NICO when I did the job.

fgy33-plenum-removal-56k-beware-adding- ... 20801.html

Stay tuned for an engine installation walkthrough....

[Mopar]

This might help you. I put a walkthrough of the job on NICO when I did the job.

fgy33-plenum-removal-56k-beware-adding- ... 20801.html

Stay tuned for an engine installation walkthrough....

Hey Jack! Awesome write up there. I am using that as a bible to do mine soon. I just need to know what to order. Anythig special? I am getting all the gaskets. What else do i need? What could go wrong?

I realized that i have a major clog in my intake system somewhere... My main goal is cleaning and changingthe leaking valve cover gasket.

Any tips/advice appreciated. I can afford to park the Q till i finish the job, i just dont want to spend a week waiting on parts.

[paranoidjack]

Honestly Mopar, not much I can think off offhand, except the obvious of be VERY CAREFUL with all connectors. Get a few flatheads, proper pliers, and be very careful when disconnecting.

Obviously, as is clear in my walkthrough, stuff all exposed engine holes when they are opened up, immediately. When you lift off the manifold etc, ensure all bolts, bracket screws, pieces of plastic etc, won't fall into it while lifting off manifold.

Anything of significance I included in that walkthrough, it will get you there.

Glad I could help. Feel free to email or PM me with any questions.

[Mopar]

Also, where did you get the harnesses for KSs? Does IOS have them? I am going to call them with your recept that you have posted and order all those parts. If you can think of anything thats not included please let me know. The local dealer charges me $40 bucks for a PCV valve washer. Un freakin beliveable

[paranoidjack]

Yeah, IOS has the KS harnesses. Honestly, you don't need them. It's the g50 where they become brittle, I changed mine because I'm anal but they were fine. Don't bother.

Buy a few feet of fuel hose from IOS. Just cut it all off, EXCEPT the ones that go from the firewall to the fuel rail and return....those are important. However, the ones under plenum are easier to just cut and replace.

Mind the large coolant hose warning, replace it. I went to a local truck shop and paid too much, just get them from IOS.

[Mopar]

What would it be called so that i can order it. Ya i don't wanna deal with the local shops.

Planning on doing it coming thursday so i can do it in 2 days and not rush.
My car is getting 6.7 mpg right now and I am almost done pumping it with 91 gas..

[paranoidjack]

It's a 2" wide 4" long hose that is the main coolant inlet into the block. Note I'm referring to the male protrusion, NOT the circled knock sensor.

that photo is from the walkthrough. Email them the photo(s) if you want. I don't have a part # because I sourced it locally, although I would have preferred Infiniti's.

One last piece of advice - make sure everything is clamped well, all coolant lines. Replace any tired looking connections with stainless steel clamps from a hardware store. One small coolant leak and you're doing this all over again - I HAD TO.

[Mopar]

Outstanding! Thank you sir. Will do.

[Mopar]

All OEM purchased through IOS Joe (Most outstanding dealer worker I have done business with). Waiting for the parts to come so I can get my Q back in order.

Have a question: I am doing the rocker covers since mine are leaking, I did some research and read that they have to be sealed with some silicone? Any inaight on that? I also read that when you put that Y shaped coolant body to the block back on the engine you should also use some on that too? Is this correct?

[maxnix]

Yes. I used Nissan orange RTV from Joe but there are others that meet specification.

[paranoidjack]

To the best of my recollection, the coolant T does not require any silicone. They are flat metal gaskets, like a head gasket. The valve covers though, you and Brian are correct...use OEM, it's just easier.

[Mopar]

So I am about to pull in the Q on the driveway to start the job. I gathered all supplies to the best of my abilities. Now while I work on the car I have some questions...

First, organization, yes I got it. After all going through a nursing program thats the most valuable skill you learn. But how do you guys remember where all the little screws go to? Whic type of screw goes where?

I am planning on putting them in small plastic baggies ant tape them to their belonging part. Any advice to make this easier to keep track of is welcomed.

Question number two is, what do I use to clean the intake monifold and the egr valve and all those things without damaging them?. When I cleaned my throttle body I saw the dirt that was in the monifold so I am sure it's not coming off easy.

Alright, here I go, wish the Q and I some good luck and patience...

[paranoidjack]

So I am about to pull in the Q on the driveway to start the job. I gathered all supplies to the best of my abilities. Now while I work on the car I have some questions...

First, organization, yes I got it. After all going through a nursing program thats the most valuable skill you learn. But how do you guys remember where all the little screws go to? Whic type of screw goes where?

I am planning on putting them in small plastic baggies ant tape them to their belonging part. Any advice to make this easier to keep track of is welcomed.

Question number two is, what do I use to clean the intake monifold and the egr valve and all those things without damaging them?. When I cleaned my throttle body I saw the dirt that was in the monifold so I am sure it's not coming off easy.

Alright, here I go, wish the Q and I some good luck and patience...

Good luck Mopar! Keep us posted in here. As far as remember what goes where, one of the MOST IMPORTANT tips I can give you about working on cars is:

1) Remove bolt/screw/nut
2) Separate parts
3) Rethread bolt/screw/nut into hole

This will keep 80% of your stuff where it belongs - in threads! The rest you put in baggies and label. WHAT you label them isn't important - as long as you remember what it is! Label it what your gut tells you, not the FSM.

I.e. "Yellow sensor with 2 pins," not "Crankshaft Position sensor" (now you have to look it up to see what/where)

Remember order of removal/installation. Take pictures throughout to remember ROUTING, throttle cables, wire harness, vacuum lines, etc.....

Cleaning? Engine degreaser, several wire brushes, it's really nasty. Going to need to soak/scrub/soak/scrub. The 2nd time around I would have just replaced the EGR pipe instead of cleaning it - that's what I'll do on this second engine! Also, I'll send the intake manifold and EGR pipe to the machine shop for a chemical bath. Hand scrubbing stinks and never gets good enough.

[Mopar]

Thanks for the info Jack!

So i got to as far as the manifold off. And already am freaking out. I took tons of pictures and videos of stuff that i know i will not remember where they go. I just stopped my operation 30 min ago since it got dark.

I have to say the small rubber lines are PITA! i damaged 2 of them( not too bad tho). I had to go to sears to buy a wrench to undo that big EGR bolt, which was another PITA. I removed my manifold, clogged the holes and stopped.

Too much risk in doing it at night. Rather have a day light to continue. I have to say it takes a ton of patience which i lack.

I have realized i will not have a car for the next 3-4 days since i want to go nice and easy and slow with the assembly process. I am just wondering how I am going to remember to connect all these little annoying hoses back together.

P.S. You walkthrough is doing an awesome job with helping me get thru. I will update again tomorrow when I continue...

[BadQ45t]

Your a brave guy to do this youselft. I plan to do value covers, knock sensors, coil packs etc when the time comes along with new spark plugs and will happily pay my mechanic to accomplish the task. I just do not have that much ability or time.

[maxnix]

Everything but the KS is not so bad. When you do have the "mechanic" perform this function, be sure to tell him you want the valley, the IAC and EGR valves, the plenum, the EGR tube in the plenum, the TB and the lower runners to be as clean as new. And you need to inspect them before reassembly. Most will just slap the old dirty components back on because the customer doesn't want to pay the additional labor not covered by the book time to do the cleaning.

[Mopar]

Updates:

So it's the second straight day I have been working on the Q. I managed to take off everything that needed to go. I have to say that by now, I am regretting doing this by myself, but I have started it, and have to somehow manage to finish this job. All my fingers either hurt from squeezing/pulling on things so much or they have major cuts from the little metal parts when my hand slipped while trying to pull a hose out.

So complaining aside.... As I said before my valves are leaking, and as soon as I pulled the plenum it was obvious that all the dirt/oil/sludge made my knock sensors go. They were covered in the sludge that built up from so many years. See for yourself...


I spent the rest of the day cleaning the valley, took me 3 cans of degreaser from NAPA. It is not 100% clean but I can live with the results. I am going to do another final round of cleaning tomorrow morning to really get that spot free clean. This is after cleaning for so many hours



I am still thinking about a way to clean the manifold, the plenum and the EGR. What am I going to soak them in?. Because the manifold's inside is not accessible. The plenum shouldn't be so bad.

After taking off the injectors I also realized that the small plastic tips on all of them were broken to some degree (some still had 2-3 pieces, some had none). Is this something I need to change before putting back on?

Also, Is there a way to test the KS harness off the car? They look shady to me, and since they were below the plenum they got exposed to the dirt. I don't want to do this project again, so want to make sure everything works before putting it together.

I also got frustrated with couple of the hoses, including the lower one from the manifold and just cut them off, or cut the end off. I am going to replace them.

At this point I am looking for any tips/ideas as to what needs to be serviced while im down here.

And lastly, I don't want to sound like a quitter, but I am highly doubting I am going to put all this back together right the first time. As much of a PITA it is to do this, I JUST KNOW I am not going to get this right. I took pictures and all that, but the way my engine looks now, I don't even know where I am going to start to put this back together. My dad promised to help me so I am hoping his knowledge will help us.

If we will be unsuccessful, I will tow it to a shop and pay them to put it back together. I know it sounds stupid, but at least I got to clean my engine the way I WANTED. I am sure they would'nt spend the time to do the job right.

Talk to me guys...

[maxnix]

1.) I spent the rest of the day cleaning the valley, took me 3 cans of degreaser from NAPA. It is not 100% clean but I can live with the results. I am going to do another final round of cleaning tomorrow morning to really get that spot free clean. This is after cleaning for so many hours

2.) I am still thinking about a way to clean the manifold, the plenum and the EGR. What am I going to soak them in?. Because the manifold's inside is not accessible. The plenum shouldn't be so bad.

3.) After taking off the injectors I also realized that the small plastic tips on all of them were broken to some degree (some still had 2-3 pieces, some had none). Is this something I need to change before putting back on?

4.) Also, Is there a way to test the KS harness off the car? They look shady to me, and since they were below the plenum they got exposed to the dirt. I don't want to do this project again, so want to make sure everything works before putting it together.

5.) I also got frustrated with couple of the hoses, including the lower one from the manifold and just cut them off, or cut the end off. I am going to replace them.

6.) And lastly, I don't want to sound like a quitter, but I am highly doubting I am going to put all this back together right the first time. As much of a PITA it is to do this, I JUST KNOW I am not going to get this right. I took pictures and all that, but the way my engine looks now, I don't even know where I am going to start to put this back together.

OK, good job so far!

1.) I use a mini vacuum with a slender nozzle to get the small stuff out, even when it is saturated with the BRC solvent.

2.) I use rags soaked with the BRC solvent and have a mechanical claw with flexible stem (like this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 0P?prdNo=4) to clean these out until they are like new. I have used a machine shop soaker in the past, but it left an ugly white deposit on the aluminum. You will need 3 new gaskets going back together for the lower runners and plenum.

For the IAC, inner plenum EGR tube and the EGR valve, a Dremel tool with steel brush at 45° bristles proved invaluable, along with the BRC.

3.) Yes, you can get the pintles from http://www.mrinjector.us/ who is very reasonable and a very nice guy. Highly recommend him as he actually tests injector rail assemblies unlike some other vendors.

4.) KS sub harness is always replaced! Do you want to go back in when it fails?

5.) Inspect all hoses from the inside as that is how they fail. Ones that look perfect from the outside can be rotten inside. Any firmness indicates a new hose. Remember, you don't wan to go back for 10 years.

6.) Actually, it is pretty easy if you have a good calibrated torque wrench or two, good pictures and notes. Don't expect your Dad to offer much help when he didn't see the tear down. FSM is mandatory.

Be patient, don't rush, don't work when tired. Doing it right is the goal.

Look out for how the half moons fit on the back side of the VC covers. Pay attention to the coolant hose coming into the back by the firewall. Use anti seize lubricants on the nuts and bolts when going back together. Make notes upon order of reassembly and torque values and sequences.

The most interesting part is about to begin.

[Mopar]

As always, thanks for the input maxnix.

I would gladly replace the harness, but for now I am financially not able to. This project cost me about $400 and I rather keep it till it fails than change it. Is there a way to test it?

Also, I do not want to sound like a cheater, but can I get some of your notes and pictures? I took some but looking at them now, I am not sure if I included everything.

As of today, I didn't have much work time on the Q, it is still sitting on the driveway, waiting for assembly. I called IOS and they told me I shall be getting the parts on wednesday this coming week. A week late than I was told I will get them. Great...

[maxnix]

You just have to replace the KS sub harness as it gets brittle with heat and the insulation fails or the conductor breaks internally. You can inspect the sub harness and judge for yourself. The harness can be tested for continuity and resistance with a DVM. Sell blood or whatever, you do not want to do this again soon. Life is too short.

I haven't done the KS on the VH41DE, but having done it on a VH45DE, the VH41DE is definitely easier. I'll check my computer for notes and pictures, but i think a hard drive crash killed them.

Either I or Jack can help you in general, with Jack probably having the more immediate experience. I find that once one contemplates the functioning of the components, their layout and connections make perfect sense.

[OwnerCS]

Supporting Brian's comments about testing the KS wiring, before bolting on the plenum.

Here are some pictures and tips from a computer software geek about that four letter word ("TEST") to conduct before finishing an installation.

These are pictures from a G50 below. However, I use the same approach on the Maxima or any Nissan for that matter.

Test every connection under the plenum that can cause trouble before bolting it down.

1) Auto parts stores have coolant system test kits that can be borrowed (with security deposit) or for rental. The testing kit will let you verify the system will hold pressure. I left mine under pressure overnight before the final bolt down.



2) Pressure test any under plenum fuel lines. I think I bought the testing kit from Harbor Freight for around $20. Some auto parts stores rent or loan the kits also.

[paranoidjack]

You're doing fine!

Congratulations on getting this far.

Not enough money to replace more parts? I'd like to point out how much money you'll have saved yourself by the end of this project, because at most "mechanics" or an Infiniti dealer your bill would go from $400 to about a thousand. KS harness? Mine was done at well over 100k and the harness was nice and supple. Some here have offered that the VH41 doesn't "cook" the harness like the 45, but I did NOT need to replace mine. I tested it accordingly, but it was fine.

Cuts and bruises heal. When the dust settles you'll be OK.

Also, when I started getting crazy with these projects tearing stuff apart, I realized that parts MOST OF THE TIME, ONLY FIT ONE WAY. Even if the rare situation presents itself where a harness connector or something could fit another way, usually keep going and you'll find something else that clears up that problem. Brackets, hmmm, where did that go....you'll find the mating hole, with traces of the backside of that bracket pressed against it. The trickiest part is vacuum lines.

What else to replace? First of all your engine is very clean! Looks to be in nice condition. This is the time for valve cover gaskets ($50 from IOS for both), and like Brian said coolant lines. I should have, but didn't, replace the 1" coolant line that "t's" off behind the engine. It's in both of your pictures. It never leaked but was always ready to. Other than that, the large coolant hose like I said, seems you cut yours so I can assume you've already ordered it...

You're looking great! As far as the pintle caps, I elected to just overhaul my injectors. I sent them out to Deutschewerks and for $180 new injectors. Bad luck, the engine blew shortly thereafter (I believe for exhaust and cat-related issues) but that was my plan.

Listen, do NOT tow your car to a mechanic. I promise you ANYONE putting this back together who didn't tear it down is going to a) charge an arm and a leg, and b) do things incorrectly.

You are the one who will be putting this back together. Use this thread to post pictures and ask questions. You can ask Brian or I anything, there is very very very little I don't recall about this job it is fresh in my mind. If I were there, I could reassemble those parts in about an hour. You'll need more time than that, but just remember things only go one way.

You'll be OK. Vacuum lines and throttle cables always get me, I need my pictures for that, but everything else...just goes smoothly.

Keep us posted, you're doing very well!

[paranoidjack]

OH ONE THING I didn't mention yet....and it will save you time.

make sure you thread and attach the large EGR nut BEFORE THREADING IN THE PLENUM. You'll need to have it slightly "unseated" from the lower runners to ensure the threads align properly. Once you chase a few threads, go ahead and bolt the intake manifold (plenum) down. Remember that one, I've made that mistake twice!

Also, don't forget to:
a) reattach that little bracket that connects upper manifold and lower, I think it's held on with 2 12mm bolts.
b) reattach the coolant lines behind the engine, they can be a biotch.
c) reattach the coolant lines that flow under and through the throttle body, if you removed it.

Don't get too caught up scrubbing the valley. 3 hours is too much - unless you're planning on 80 more hours for other stuff (that can actually be seen). Spend time cleaning parts that need it. OwnerCS is an exception for clean - but that's what I mean, if you're going to clean unnecessary parts, do them all, not just the valley. Point is spend your time wisely.

About cleaning? Honestly just go to a local machine shop and pay them to chem bath your parts, those that CAN be bathed, of course you can't do that to the IACV or anything with electronics on it, really just the runners and plenum. Remove EGR components and those too.

It's all about tools - your hands hurt probably because of a few wrenches and pliers that would make your life much easier

[paranoidjack]

oh, and put that coolant sensor back into the coolant pipe in the front, why did you remove that?

[maxnix]

I like a spotless valley because I know it will fill up again soon. Just nicer to work on and it is evidence that you care to see the original configuration.

[paranoidjack]

I agree with you Brian, I'm only saying priority in these projects is important. Downtime is obviously a concern to our friend, so his time might be best spent cleaning to 90% and not 99% for the extra time.

I'm guilty of doing the 99.9% though, so who am I to say? I cleaned the engine harness even.

[Mopar]

I have to say that you guys built up confidence in me. With your support I can put it back together. I might just ask a lot of stuff. BUT I'm pretty good with putting stuff together. My biggest concern is having to start my car and realize a small hose didn't get connected in the valley and doing this again.

GREAT info there guys as always. My parts are arriving tomorrow. I have class most of the day, so my job will take place thursday and friday (if need to be). Time isn't so much of a deal anymore, since I found a ride to school, and don't have class till sunday. So I can take my sweet time to get this right.

I want to go step by step and check anything and everything. Oh Jack, I did get the valve cover gaskets and that RTV or RVT stuff that is used to seal. I am also going to do my spark plugs, since I am pretty sure the drivers side first two will be flooded with oil.

I am also planning on changing the coolant and the oil (obviously). I want to get this baby back, you know, had it since I had my license, and even though we ran into tough times together, this car is awesome and one of a kind. I know if I treat it right it will last for ever, after all, my dads crown vic retired with 480xxx miles.

Anyhow, I just want to say thank you for willing to help me do this. I will update and ask questions when I start the job.

P.S. oh btw. is there a special tool that will make it easier to remove these hoses to replace/check for cracks?

P.S.S. Oh I removed that coolant sensor connected with the engine main wire harness. Didn't wanna disconnect it...