Changing Knock Sensor on FGY33

[OwnerCS]

For water and vacuum lines, I used a hand held heat gun (looks like a black hair dryer) to warm and soften old hoses for removal.

[maxnix]

You need a pick set from Sears or SnapOn. The Sears are OK, but not as usable.

[paranoidjack]

rubber tipped pliers, pick tools, heat guns - all good...NOT a regular pair of pliers, they will damage the hose. I use a flathead screwdriver I heat-bent to run around the inside of the hose and pull it off. Just google "hose tool" there are plenty!

[Mopar]

Well I am really frustrated by now. I was promised my parts to be here by last wednesday, it is thursday a week and a day later and I still don't have them! I am extremely dissapointed with Joe and his staff. I just called to check if I can track my item, and all the worker told me was basically to pound sand. All he said was that THEY ARE STILL AWAITING FOR THE PARTS( note Joe promised they will have them on monday for shipment) and they still dont have it 10 days later.

I have to say IOS and Joe specifically dissapointed me. I specifically asled Joe how long it will take to get the parts to my door he promised by wednesday last week latest. If I knew, i wouldn't have taken my car apart, and would still have a car to get by, instead of asking people to drive me from here to there...

So Leo (the worker) basically told me to wait until monday so that i can speak to Joe to know the status. Just great. Very professional. This means another week of no Q for me.

[OwnerCS]

Here's definately sorry to hear the bad news. Where are you located?

[Mopar]

Los Angeles, Ca. I understand it's not exact info, but usually it's possible to tell if the item is going to ship tomorrow or next week. I called back, some other rep took my phone number, promised to sort it out and call me back. Never did.

[paranoidjack]

Really sorry to hear that Mopar.

I've had mixed service, but generally good. Sometimes it has taken quite some time to get my parts.

[maxnix]

If they can't get them from the warehouse, they can't ship them. They don't stock everything for old cars, or even some parts from new ones that don't move. If someone else gets their order pulled first from the warehouse and it is the last one in the warehouse, you have to wait until it comes from Japan. Even God can't help you in that circumstance.

[paranoidjack]

Since it's happened to me, allow me to chime in on this.

I've had this happen. I understand they don't stock it all. My issue is when they clearly tell me when a part will arrive to them (or to me), and they are not even close to right.

If it's going to be a month, I get that - but I need to know that beforehand.

Mopar, not to rag on you, but always order parts and get them BEFORE starting your project! Ok enough beating up on you - sorry to hear it, and stay patient. It is what it is. Any mechanic you brought it to would have the same issue. Imagine how mad you'd be if it was in a shop instead, AND you were paying labor, AND waiting weeks for parts.

Sorry bud

[Mopar]

Jack you got my point. I needed to know if it was going to be 10 days so I woupd have Planned... Seems like I am getting my Parts tomorrow. So i spent the day cleaning the manifold and the plenum as much as I could. I got them to almost comLetely clean. I can live with that...

Guys. This is it, Putting it all back. Help me

[paranoidjack]

You got this!

Most important part is SEQUENCE.

Do you have all gaskets? EGR (if you disassembled), IACV (if you disassembled) TB (if you disassembled)?

Just keep on here we'll help you.

[Mopar]

Update: Just got my parts from FedEx.


Unfortunately, I will not have time to start doing this until coming thursday since I have classes starting from sunday. But I want to ask some things.

I ordered the fuel hose. 2 feet. Why?. My fuel hoses seem to be in tact. Should I just replace them? Is that why you told me to get them?.

Also I damaged 2 hoses trying to take them out. These are those small, thin brittle hoses. I am guessing for vacuum/air. Can I use some of this fuel hose to replace those?

Also, my very first job to putting this back together is going to be the valve gaskets. Any tips in that department? Seems to be very straight forward. remove and replace. Oh and btw, I removed my coils expecting to find my plugs covered in oil like last time. I had zero spillage. Weird. But my covers are leaking from the top.

[OwnerCS]

Here's something I learned on mine that seemed to make the job go smoothly and without leaks.

On the crossover hoses I used some silicone o-ring lubricant on the metal surface area before sliding the hoses into position. I used a rubber-to-metal lubricant -- basically automotive dielectric lube. There are many good brands of this type of lube at auto parts supply stores. I used a Permatex brand as I recall..

My G50 model does not use gaskets, so I had to do a pre-fit for clearance required for RTV sealant. In most cases I believe lubricating the hoses will allow for smooth fitting and positioning before tightening the hose clamps.

As you can see from the picture, the hose clamps are the lined/shielded type. I used the lined type clamps to avoid any possible damage to the hose by the clamp surface.



I learned about the lined/shielded clamps from an aircraft mechanic buddy.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/e ... eclamp.php

I got my clamps from a local NAPA (main store) warehouse.

Here's a picture of the clamp.

[maxnix]

Almost? Not enough Chem Tool?

[paranoidjack]

Update: Just got my parts from FedEx.

Unfortunately, I will not have time to start doing this until coming thursday since I have classes starting from sunday. But I want to ask some things.

I ordered the fuel hose. 2 feet. Why?. My fuel hoses seem to be in tact. Should I just replace them? Is that why you told me to get them?.

Also I damaged 2 hoses trying to take them out. These are those small, thin brittle hoses. I am guessing for vacuum/air. Can I use some of this fuel hose to replace those?

Also, my very first job to putting this back together is going to be the valve gaskets. Any tips in that department? Seems to be very straight forward. remove and replace. Oh and btw, I removed my coils expecting to find my plugs covered in oil like last time. I had zero spillage. Weird. But my covers are leaking from the top.

Good to hear re: oil not in spark plug holes. I've never had that on my Q, including last week on my new engine with the VC gasket job.

Those are vacuum lines. They are a metric size. You should go to a local dealer, or to autozone/napa/advance WITH A PIECE of your tubing...they will try to sell you standard size lines, which are too big or small. Go to the stealership, they may have some. Someone locally with have them. You cannot use your fuel lines.

You ordered a few feet of fuel lines because you may need them! There are fuel lines that run through the lower runners from one rail to another, they are such a biotch to remove I just cut them and replace them. Fuel line is cheap and you don't want to get caught with your pants down for another week. You ALSO don't want to wrench on your fuel lines removing line and risk damaging them.

Valve cover gaskets? Make sure the mating surfaces are scraped clean. I would highly advise having some compressed air to clean out the valve covers of all the scraping debris. Don't use a crappy wire brush that might lose bristles in the engine. Lay a towel over the stuff and scrape around the perimeter, it doesn't have to be PERFECT but it needs to be smooth if you close your eyes and move your finger over it.

Also, ensure you use RTV where it says in the FSM (and where it exists right now).

[maxnix]

I needed to know if it was going to be 10 days so I woupd have Planned...

Point is, no one can predict the future, or even current stock in warehouses.

If you ain't got it, don't plan on installing it.

[paranoidjack]

If you ain't got it, don't plan on installing it.

[maxnix]

For hoses, I use KY Jelly or Astroglide. I kid you not.

[Mopar]

While reading other threads I wondered. You guys say to everyone clean EGR and the EGR hard line. how do you cleab the egr? I ran some fluid through the small hard egr line and also some cleaner through the EGR. did I miss anything?

[maxnix]

Probably a lot of the coke that build sup inside. Did you look? I used a dremel with a wand and said 45° steel brush and lots of Chemtool. The coke will not come out easily no matter how politely you ask. Just look into the tube.

[paranoidjack]

...or buy a new one...

[Mopar]

Well I have drive side rocker cover off now. Cleaned ready to be put back. I am not sure where to apply the RTV gasket liquid. I studied the fsm but can't understand where. Can someone please tell me in simple terms? Can i just put it all over the rubber gasket and put it on?

[paranoidjack]

NO

Hold on...

[paranoidjack]

OK, page EM-42:



Red is FSM mandated, yellow is optional per paranoidjack.

Put the RTV along the valleys in the rear where the gasket is arched. About 3/4" past the arch into the straight part, down through, and up the other side. Slightly past both sides of the arch.

For the front, you're going to do the INSIDE of the bolts. I guess you could just go around them, but make sure you get the inside at least.

That should clear it up for you.

Don't use too much, oh, and don't use too little!!!

[Mopar]

Thanks for the fast response as I am doing it right now and need it.

i still can't get it. can you please highlight the parts to be lubed on this pic. its the driver side one with the new gasket in it.




and when you say or the fsm says too, the inside of the runner holes? I put rtv inside of these and tighten them? Inside meaning in between the rocker cover and the cylinder head where they meet?

[paranoidjack]

You apply RTV to the car, not the gasket. You apply the gasket to the valve cover, like you did, then gently place it over the engine with the RTV already installed.

REMEMBER - do not apply the RTV to the gasket, apply to the engine side where I have just indicated.

[paranoidjack]

be VERY CAREFUL to torque the bolts properly for the cover. Do you have a torque wrench? Start from the "middle" bolts (those north and south of the bolt hole in the center. First bolt you install is the middle middle. Torque them all down lightly, working towards the front and back the back of the engine. Once all are installed and lightly torqued, follow the same order and apply final torque......ahhhhh F it, here's the page from the manual. Do what it says

Remember those torque specs are not listed in ft/lbs! They are so low it's inch/lbs. Divide by 12 to get ft/lbs and you'll see how this works. Tighten them too much and reduce the gasket's efficiency. They are not hard tightening bolts. Loosest on the car by far.

[Mopar]

Good news and bad news.

Bad news is I stripped one of the bolts for the cover. It was pure frustration. I went around the whole day looking for a good torque wrench and couldn't find any, so I came back home, thought I would put the cover back on so my engine doesn't sit like that another day. While putting the bolts back on the very last one stripped. I was applying ZERO pressure IDK why it did that. I am really frustrated. I have to find a good tool to remove it and put a new bolt in.

Good news is, changed the gasket. I could see where it was messed up and was leaking into the plugs. Hopefully it won't do that again. My old gaskets were hard and broke as soon as I bent them a little tiny bit. New ones are rubberish and won't do that.

I'm going to take a shower and eat a healthy meal. I hope tomorrow goes better than today.

[paranoidjack]

Good news and bad news.

Bad news is I stripped one of the bolts for the cover. It was pure frustration. I went around the whole day looking for a good torque wrench and couldn't find any, so I came back home, thought I would put the cover back on so my engine doesn't sit like that another day. While putting the bolts back on the very last one stripped. I was applying ZERO pressure IDK why it did that. I am really frustrated. I have to find a good tool to remove it and put a new bolt in.

Good news is, changed the gasket. I could see where it was messed up and was leaking into the plugs. Hopefully it won't do that again. My old gaskets were hard and broke as soon as I bent them a little tiny bit. New ones are rubberish and won't do that.

I'm going to take a shower and eat a healthy meal. I hope tomorrow goes better than today.

that is very odd about the bolt stripping....how did that happen without you feeling the threads biting wrong?! Anyway keep up the pace, seems you're doing well. Of course it is recommended to have an OEM bolt, but you can use a bolt from a local hardware store also, however it will sit differently than the others and not have the "shoulder." A good temp fix while you order a new bolt.

[paranoidjack]

I have to find a good tool to remove it and put a new bolt in.

Wait - the bolt is stuck in the car? It's threaded what, halfway and seized up? Head stripped off? These bolts sit so loose you can almost hand loosen them. You are applying too much force...chase the bolt backwards when first threading it to ensure you "snap" to the threads, when you feel the click, turn the proper way and seat it..bolt 101, save you tons of headache.