Changing Knock Sensor on FGY33

[Mopar]

I am so mad at myself. Should have labelled them. My pictures do not show what i need them to show :/. I am almostest done

[maxnix]

Is it a water hose or a vacuum hose or a intake hose? Think systems and how they work and I am sure it will become obvious to you where it needs to be connected.

Contemplate how the systems work and I think it will become obvious.

[Mopar]

Its a hose from the black map sensor under plenum

[Mopar]

Well good news!

Figured everything out. It involved a lot of studying of the fsm and a lot of luck. Crossed my fingers, started her up... WHAT? it wouldn't crank. Of course not! I fogot to put back the fuel pump fuse! Did that she started up like butter.

I let it idle, warm up, saw some white smoke coming out from the back of the engine, let it idle some more, it went away. I am guessing it was just water evaporating from sitting for so long!

The Q runs like new now. Idle is smooth, you can't hear the engine work. Feels just like new. Let it warm up, took it for a drive. Power... Feels like a V8 again. No stumbling no misfires! I got to say that the difference is night and day just like Jack said. Those knock sensors crippled my car's engine.

I am tired, my back hurts, and my fingers are all cut up. Give me until tomorrow I will post some pointers for people that want to do this job, and do it right!

A BIG THANK YOU TO BRIAN AND JACK FOR HELPING ME THROUGHOUT.

[maxnix]

Congratulations on doing the job successfully! Now you know it was done correctly without short cuts. Enjoy!

Oh, what did you do about the clogged ERG tube in the plenum?

[Mopar]

You know i found that tube accidentally. I took off the egr valve to clean and noticed there was something going into the manifold. I used a screwdriver to pop it out. It is VITAL TO CLEAN the tube. The two holes on the tube were clogged. By that i meancompletely clogged. I borrowed a dremel and cleaned it like you pointed out. It was like cleaning a chimny. There was so mu coke in it. By far the dirtiest item in the whole project. I am suspecting my hesitation was due to that.

I also realized i had a vaccum problem since my engine was hissing at idle. It went away due to new gaskets applied and torqued to spec.

I am very glad i did this myself and took the time to clean it right. The payout is incresed gas milage and overall function of the engine. It feels like brand new.

[maxnix]

And thus friends we have another testament to doing it right with NICO's help!

[Mopar]

Very true. As I said before, without Nico counity I wouldn't even think about doing this. I used all the advice that I got from here completely. They are given for a reason and I am glad I followed them. I would hate to bolt down the manifold and have to take it apart again to connect the EGR hard line.

Small pointers like that help cut down on wasted time and a chance of messing up.

[Mopar]

It's my third day after putting it back together, so I want to say that I have successfully done this project since I do not have any CEL codes or drivability issues. I wanted to give some pointers to people that want to tackle this job.

First and foremost, order your part through IOS. Here's the list of things that you will need to absolutely change:

Code Item Qty Price Grand Total
:11812-41B00 PCV VALVE GASKET
2 $7.69 $15.38
:16175-6P001 GASKET-THROTTLE C
1 $3.34 $3.34
:14722-6P100 EGR TUBE GASKET
2 $4.83 $9.66
:14032-6P020 GASKET-INTAKE MAN
1 $4.45 $4.45
:14035-6P001 GASKET-MANIFOLD
2 $39.36 $78.72
:11062-6P001 GASKET-WATER OUTL
2 $2.28 $4.56
:11062-6P010 GASKET-WATER OUTL
1 $2.28 $2.28
:A6440-N7686 HOSE FUEL
1 $49.61 $49.61
:13270-6P010 GASKET-ROCKER COV
1 $22.36 $22.36
:13270-6P000 GASKET-ROCKER COV
1 $22.36 $22.36
:16636-72P00 INSULATER
8 $0.89 $7.12
:999MP-1217HP THREEBOND 1217H G
1 $11.99 $11.99
:14055-6P000 HOSE-WATER
1 $5.90 $5.90

Grand Total: $248.38

Wait until your Fedex arrives before you take anything apart, since I had to wait extra days until they got out of stock items and shipped it.

Go to local auto store and buy a good torque wrench. I had trouble finding one which had sub 10 ft/lbs. settings. You might not need this unless you are doing your valve covers, but it won't hurt. Also buy a whose clamp set. I got one for 5.99 for a whole set with different sizes. Your old clamps are very tired already. Replace them. You also need a big enough wrench to take out the big EGR bolt. Make sure you have it before you start.

Taking apart: Do yourself a favor and go buy a paper tape. Now if you are hard of memory like me, label everything you take out. Every hose you take out should have a number on it with the corresponding attaching point. This will ensure a smooth put back of everything. BELIEVE ME DO THIS!

You need a good pick tool to not damage any hoses that you take apart. Most of them are stuck and no matter what you do they wont budge. So take your time. I got impatient and damaged a lot of them, so I had to buy replacement hoses.

Don't rush and don't work when you get frustrated. Be extremely careful with plugs and connectors that have been around the lower runners and the heat. Anything you touch there will shatter and break to pieces if you use pliers/force. Be gentle. I broke my KS harness connectors and I had to replace it (well it was recommended anyways so why not!).

Clean everything with various ways that are described in Jack's and this thread. Make sure to clean the hard EGR tube in the planum. It sits behind the EGR so you need to remove that and stuff behind it too. I found this pipe to be the dirtiest of them all. It has two holes on it and both of them were 95% clogged. You need 3 gaskets for the EGR system. In the following picture you can see the pipe and how dirty it is. You can see one of the holes up top, which is so clogged its barely visible. I used a dremel to clean this piece.


Be particularly careful to label where the tubes from under the plenum go to. I did not label them, an had a hard time finding their places. Second time around I would just remove the plate housing the hoses and leave the hoses connected.

Putting it back together is straight forward. You may freak out to see your engine that way, BUT once you put all the pieces together, MOST of the hoses align with their place of connection. There is only couple of them that need to be labelled, but you should label them all anyways. It's not as bad as it looks!

What to expect after the job: If you had 2 failed knock sensors, the difference is MAJOR. You can expect your car to breathe better and basically work as new. The sound of your engine working will change significantly. When you start it up, let it idle for a while, and take it easy on the gas for the first couple of days. I have driven about 60 miles in these couple of days with 20 bucks worth of 91. I have to say my gas mileage improved also.

If you need help, you can contact us for more info. That's what I did and it paid off big time, instead of doing it myself and doing it wrong. Just reply to the thread(s) and we will reply.

[maxnix]

Make sure to clean the hard EGR tube in the planum. It sits behind the EGR so you need to remove that and stuff behind it too. I found this pipe to be the dirtiest of them all. It has two holes on it and both of them were 95% clogged. You need 3 gaskets for the EGR system. In the following picture you can see the pipe and how dirty it is. You can see one of the holes up top, which is so clogged its barely visible. I used a dremel to clean this piece.

Geez, what was the rest of the runners and EGR and IAC valves like?

[paranoidjack]

I'mmmmm back!

Sorry Mopar! That's probably the longest I've been away from NICO! I'm glad you got it worked out. GREAT JOB and we're all cheering for you.

I met a new lady friend, after recently divorcing my wife of 9 years and we spent the last 5 days far away from a keyboard...

Congrats Mopar. Let's make a KS/Plenum sticky already, how many people has this helped???!!!

[paranoidjack]

First and foremost, order your part through IOS. Here's the list of things that you will need to absolutely change:

:13270-6P010 GASKET-ROCKER COV
1 $22.36 $22.36
:13270-6P000 GASKET-ROCKER COV
1 $22.36 $22.36

Remember, the valve covers do not HAVE to be removed to do this job, so those aren't necessary. It's definitely the ideal time to do it, and they typically fail at similar mileage to KS, but not absolutely necessary.

[maxnix]

But prudent and wise to R&R when you do the plugs. Once the VC gaskets leak in the spark plug wells, it is a real mess.

[QFourFive]

I'm also in the middle of this. Which way do the holes face when putting the egr tube back into the intake manifold?

[Mopar]

I think it only fits one way no?. I don't remember having to make a choice in which way i put the tube in...

Just wondering, did you have as much dirt as I had?

[QFourFive]

I havent tried putting it back yet because im waiting on the gaskets. Ill update when i get there. I don't think mine was as bad as yours because the holes were still pretty open. Did you clean the little hard line too because the inlet on mine was over 50% clogged. I found that carb/air intake cleaner worked really well.

[Mopar]

As to keep myself from running into doing this again, I cleaned anything and everything possible. It took me a good day to just clean everything. I used a combo of things from napa. Carb cleaner works good but I think you shouldn't use that on the manifold. I used a good dremel and just cleaned and cleaned. I threw out a ton of old rugs full of dirt...

Good luck to you! I guarantee you will love your Q after finishing this job. The Q will thank you for it!!!

[QFourFive]

Do you remember the torque spec on the knock sensors? I couldn't find it anywhere in the manual.

[QFourFive]

Parts came today. I guess I'll just have to leave the knock sensors torqued where I have them. Damn I hope nothing leaks after i put this back together.

[maxnix]

In the 1995 manual. it is 12-15 ft lbs I believe for the same sensors.

Correct torque value is critical to get it acoustically coupled per design.

[Mopar]

Brian is correct. KSs 12-15. I torqued mine at 14. I did the same for all torque number. So it wont be too tight or too loose. Do somewhere in between.

I would recommend you go to an auto parts store and get a set of hose clamps. Those old ones that you have on are tired and need replacing. I replaced all my clamps that I messed with.

I had zero leals or problems when I started her up. And I went as deep as changing the VC gaskets. Just make sure you know where eerything goes. Make a mistake and change your engine

Good luck! Let us know how it goes...

[QFourFive]

Gas leak. Have to go back in there !!!!!!!

[paranoidjack]

Noooooo! Is it the two main lines on the pass side you can access without removing the plenum, or do you have a leak at the rails?

Stinks! I had to go back in for a coolant leak...I feel your pain.