Post by
rocksteady_racer »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/rocksteady-racer-u29694.html
Tue Apr 13, 2010 8:43 am
Yes the oil line has to run down from the turbo into the oil pan for proper drainage - already covered. A t3 flange just means the turbo has a larger exhaust port so that more exhaust gas can flow into the exhaust turbine (mostly if you had a higher lift cam or a larger displacement engine). Ball bearings are used in stock turbos because they spool up faster than their journal bearing counterparts and are easier to find used online since most cars come with them stock. However, journal bearing is a much easier install because you don't have to run coolant lines, it's just two oil lines - one running in the turbo and one coming out with a oil restricter added to the incoming line to prevent too much oil going into the turbo and damaging the seals. I'm running a t3/t4 cxracing turbo (i know junk going to upgrade to garrett later) on my sohc boosted project. The cxracing turbos are journal bearing thus cheaper new (like if you buy a garrett t3/t4 most of them are journal bearing unless you specifically request a ball bearing (with the journal bearing they are only 800$ brand new)). The downside of a journal bearing is that it spools up about 500-1000rpm later than the ball bearing one. However, you don't have to worry about idling your car when you park it no matter how hard you drive. Turbo timers really are only for ball bearing turbos so that the coolant continues to run through the turbo and prevent turbo damage if you were say driving on the highway for an extended period of time or racing it - you want to let the car idle for 2 to 3 min after that (the only thing turbo timers do is let you do that without being near the car and after you take the key out). Anyway keep us updated on your build. My t3/t4 gets about 230 hp to the wheels at about 8psi with my tuning (chipped sohc ecu and e-manage ultimate for fine tuning - need to upgrade the maf for more). So in theory a t28 on a ka24 depending on how you rebuilt it should get about 200ish right at @15psi? A t25 at 15psi i think would only be like 160 or so with the way the stock motor is built. <---- Before every jumps on me, I'm not talking about from the crank, I'm talking about rear wheel horsepower (like the stock motor puts out about 115-120) ----> The stock internals on your block as long as it doesn't have like 200k miles (then it's time for some new rings, maybe new pistons, and a head rebuilt(prob should be done around 100k (that's what nissan recommends on the dohc)(the sohc never has to be rebuilt except for valve seals or if you broke it)) will handle 250hp easily with a good set of injectors, a little tuning, an upgrade fuel pump, and a couple more things here and there. There's really no reason to get higher lift cams with a t28 unless it's built diff than factory.
I don't know if this is going to be your eveyday driver - when I do turbo builds I like to pull the whole engine and bolt everything on outside the car. An engine stand is only about 80$. But that's up to you. Everything is way easier that way. And if you were to say upgrade the radiator, have some rusty studs that snap when you take off the exhaust manifold, or want to paint the inside of your engine bay - everything will be out of the way and you can carefully place everything where you want.
Modified by rocksteady_racer at 11:51 AM 4/13/2010
