building a KA-T (WHAT MOTOR WILL HE CHOOSE NEXT?!)

[WDRacing]

Oil bung is easy dude. You need a oil return bund welded to the pan. It either has the hose go directly to the bung, or the bung is threaded to accept a push on type fitting. There is a thread in the FAQ that goes over it.

WD

[93 Chuki FB]

ok but were do i buy the fitting?? also me and a friend were talking and he suggested i weld a plate of metal over were im putting the bung and drill through that and pan, and thread the bung instead of welding it, could this work? also we started putting that small a** turbo on my go-cart

[DMan II-40]

You could do that but that is just one more seal that can break. Also it sound like more work for a less reliable oil return line.

[PyR0NiAk]

zer...turbo

zer...urbos

^- OP... Check these out..

[WDRacing]

Both of those are bad choices. The first link says the compressor wheel needs to be replaced and the second one is for RB26 turbo's that are WAY to small for the KA.

[PyR0NiAk]

It was more of just to show him how quickly and easily he can find turbos for sale on here... I linked the first 2 turbo for sale posts I saw in the engine drivetrain for sale forum.

Although, now that I'm reading the 2nd link, it claims they are T28s... How can that be too small when an SR T25 is just big enough...

[ss82480]

I think "big enough" depends on who you ask.

[rocksteady_racer]

I'm just going to chime in here. I personally think that t25s are too small for a ka24 but then again I am running a cheap chinese turbo at 8 psi(it's too unstable for anything higher lol) for putting out 240hp with my tune on my KA24E. I love this thread BTW .

Anyway yea I wouldn't run that turbo just because it's ludicrously tiny and you'll probably end up with mad heat soak, overspooling, and virtually no power. Not to mention the flanges are the oddest things I've ever seen. For you budget, your probably going to have to stick to an internal wastegate and a journal bearing if you want power at the expense of spool up (like I decided) and for ease of install. If your not going for 230hp and 180ish sounds good to you then rebuild a t28.

I'd say get a cheap t3/t4 and rebuild it. I'd go hunting on one of those eclipse forums or dsm forums for a turbo. Just because all the eclipse dudes I know got their turbos on there and they are running t3/t4s at like 25psi lol. And yes I had a t70 as my first turbo - then I sold it online for 300$ (only paid 100$) - do not put it any where near a 4 cylinder LoL.

[Romeo_rus]

I think "big enough" depends on who you ask.

That what she says!!! LOL

[rocksteady_racer]

ZING...?

[WDRacing]

The RB26 didn't have 2 T28's...thats why they are two small. That dude selling them is a tool. He doesn't even know what they are.

[PyR0NiAk]

The RB26 didn't have 2 T28's...thats why they are two small. That dude selling them is a tool. He doesn't even know what they are.

So the RB26 runs T25s that are smaller than the SR T25?

[93 Chuki FB]

did anybody go to the Golden Gardens yesterday? ohh and on a side note i got a job

[rocksteady_racer]

OK so let's explain this better - A) the skyline turbos have a t3 flange rather than the t2 flange that is on almost - every one of the nissan 4 cylinder turbos (all sr20dets including the gti-r etc.). So if you were going to use a skyline turbo make sure to get a t3 flanged manifold.

But one individual skyline turbo (despite being a t28 housing for all of those who couldn't phrase that properly) - has a small AR so it's really quite pathetic to use on our engines. So I'd go with a t3/t4 or a rebuilt t28 from an sr - my opinion.

[WDRacing]

The RB20 and RB25 use a T3 exhaust housing and are better matched for the KA then the SR T25. The RB26 uses (2) T25's each is smaller then the SR T25.

WD

[DMan II-40]

The RB20 and RB25 use a T3 exhaust housing and are better matched for the KA then the SR T25. The RB26 uses (2) T25's each is smaller then the SR T25.

WD

What benifits would you notice with the T3 T25s? The nice thing about an SR T25 is you can get the megan manifold (or eBay) and then use an SR20 downpipe and intercooler set-up because it keeps it in it's stock location.

If you got one of those bottom mount manifolds and replaced it with a T3 flange would you still be able to use the SR20 DP and IC set ups relatively easily?

[biggie]

The T3 T25 would be a little bigger. The SR T25 is just too small.

Possible that the T3 on bottom mount may not fit, but could. May have to adjust the downpipe and IC piping slightly, but shouldn't be much different.

[DMan II-40]

So if I read correct information the RB25 turbo is better than the RB20. Also they are BB, which I would prefer Journal style bearing for the ease of rebuild. Plus they have ceramic wheels, which are fragile above 14psi? Would prefer steel but with only 7-8psi it should be perfectly fine.
Modified by DMan II-40 at 3:57 PM 4/1/2010

[93 Chuki FB]

ok guys im back, after a couple of weeks of saving and looking im ready to restart my KA-T project. 1st off i examined my engine (95 ka24de) and my compression came out to 180, 178, 180,180 so my engine is healthy!!! my plugs look pretty good too so im starting to move forward again, Ok i found a good deal on a eclipse turbo (T25) here is the link to it, let me know if its gonna work http://seattle.craigslist.org/....html

Also i found a 16G turbo for around the same price, which is better for my build? which one is the easiest to install?
Modified by 93 Chuki FB at 7:26 PM 4/4/2010

[Ryencool]

t25 is the smallest turbo you would want to put on the KA. It comes on the SR20DET and its .4 liters smaller than the KA. Like it was said above look for a t28 or bigger, 16g might work, Im not familiar with them.

t28 or a bit larger will support 200-350hp as long as it is tuned properly. Also dont forget your brakes and suspension.

I know your on a budget, and you want to go fast. However telling yourself that when you get in an accident and can no longer walk will seem kinda stupid. Atleast makes sure your suspension is in good condition and your brakes are new or upgraded.

I know its the last thing you want to hear, but im being honest

[biggie]

Yes, if you want to stay cheap and simple look for T28 from SR. That way no mods have to be made to a manifold/DP/IC piping to fit one of these other turbos you are looking at.

[93 Chuki FB]

thats the problem, i cant find a SR turbo anywhere (also i know almost everything there is to know about a SR ). So im forced to look for other options, the 16G turbo is the stock Evo turbo so im sure it will work, but i need to know what its gonna take to make it work. Also i have new brakes and rotors all around, and i have Megan track coilovers. I dont want anything over 220whp im really looking for anything between 180-210 whp, just enough to be able to hold longer drifts and higher speeds. Also i looked at my friends 1999 Saab 9-3 and his return line goes right into the Valve cover were the PCV valve is, and its the stock Garret turbo, can i do this on my setup?

[DMan II-40]

There are SR turbos for sale all day in the classified section.

[93 Chuki FB]

i know, but my pet peeve wont let me. Hate buying stuff unless i can hold it in my hand and examine it for myself. Ive put my faith in too many ppl just to have them rip me off. I have all the money i need to do this KA-T, i never thought i would have a hard time finding the parts.

[DMan II-40]

Well if I were you I wouldn't rush into it. Wait until your very confident in what you are buying. Don't settle for s***ty parts.

[93 Chuki FB]

i dropped that mentality a long time ago, they way is see it, i have all the time in the world and i wanna do it right. I ordered a turbo (ebay ) but for $150, its not bad, as long as it lasts a couple of months im happy. Any way, can somebody tell me if there is a different way to run the return line for the oil? and how do i install the FMU? I know it goes between the fuel lines before the rail but that's it. Also were does the vac hose for the BOV go?

[motoman399]

ebay turbo's can work fine for a long time. not always. just make sure you prime it right. and i would say do a slow easy break in, like dont boost on it for maybe 50 miles or so.

the fmu is easy to install all you do is cut the return fuel line, the one from the fpr goes to the side of the fmu, and the bottom goes to the fuel tank return. t the vacuum line that also goes to the fpr, you can use that vacuum for the fpr, fmu, and bov. ask WD about the super duper cool soup can mod (or what ever its called). he is a smart guy

oh and check your email
Modified by motoman399 at 11:28 PM 4/7/2010

[93 Chuki FB]

how do i check my mail?

[Razi]

Your e-mail, in your profile, he e-mailed it.Since it's @hotmail.com, I'm guessing you'd log in at hotmail.com?

[93 Chuki FB]

i checked my email, and the only thing that in there is every post that been made on this thread. Were is W D i could really use his help, but yeah like i said earlier, is there a way i can run the return line into the valve cover?