building a KA-T (WHAT MOTOR WILL HE CHOOSE NEXT?!)

[WDRacing]

You don't know who Flippy is?

Nope...bi-sexual crack weasel?

[PyR0NiAk]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ln2vDm4gzII

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLt2E0mOtiE

Watch these 2 videos and you'll know everything you need to know about Flippy.

[93 Chuki FB]

god damn!!!! i didn't intend for this to turn into a argument! lol i know u guys are just messing around. And in other news i lost to my little brothers 97 LS integra (freeway pull in 3rd at 50mph till about 80 mph, he was about 4 cars ahead when i shut it down) its a very sad day, and just to make sure it wasn't a fluke we raced again, and again, and again. The grand total came out to about 9 pulls, if we start in 4th i kill him (gotta love torque) but anything lower than that i loose pretty bad. But the best part of my day was when my auto teacher called me down to his office and started talking to me about my senior project and my car. Apparently he took it upon him self to do some research and actually looked up what a KA-T is and was impressed, and did some research on the ka24de and thought it was pathetic. Anyway we discussed what was needed to turbo the KA, i actually showed him this tread along with a couple of video's and he liked the idea of a KA-T. So i then showed him a CA18det and he thought it was pretty cool, but was way more interested in the KA-T so we decided that im gonna continue with the KA-T, but the only thing he doesn't approve of is a fmu over an actual tune, but i told him to get over it. As far as the hours for the project, he said he was willing to write down that the average time for something like this is 20-25hrs so that mean my project should come out to 65-70 hrs and he said i could count the installation of the welded diff, light weight flywheel, and 1peice drive shaft, he said he will put that down as about 15 hrs of work so now that should put me at about 85 hrs which is more than enough. Also i got a set of 248/248 exhaust cams that will also go in, he said he will put down 5hrs at the most, so now im at 90 hrs

[93 Chuki FB]

also here are some pics of my car:

















Also that FD u see in the pics is my friends, its his first car and he put 2k miles on it in 2 years (bought it when he was 15) and the motor blew (lost compression) so its at U.P garage in Tacoma, he's putting a LS2 from G.T.O (2005 i think) the motor arrived yesterday and both our car's should be done around the same time.

[Doya]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ln2vDm4gzII

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLt2E0mOtiE

Watch these 2 videos and you'll know everything you need to know about Flippy.

I remember watching the hide and seek one on G4 a few years ago, lol.

[PyR0NiAk]

Flippy is a beast... All I'm going to say about that Doya... As far as that FD... another Loadmaster that I work with, has got one with an LS-1 Swap... Straight pipe exhaust.. It's loud as s***

[WDRacing]

The LSxFD is an all around super car if done right. I would absolutely love a 6 speed LS3 in a Silver FD Efini. I was VERY close to trading my R32 in for a FD when I was over on Okinawa. The FD was just to much $$ at the time. Hell they are still expensive to this day.

Another great example of displacement at work though. I guarantee anyone that is is exposed to the LSx FD will choose it over the rotary, even a 3 rotor. The instant application of over 300 ft lbs of torque at throttle tip in which only increases as the rev's climb safely to 7000 rpm. Makes me horny just talking about it honestly. The dang LSx can make 500 NA horse power with a cam/intake/header/reflash.

I hate talking about V8 swaps...it always makes me question why I'm still using the KA. If this one pops it will be the last one in my S14 I can tell you that.

[93 Chuki FB]

yeah the FD is gonna be sick when its done, hes paying around $25,000 to have it done from start to finish, Doug at U.P. Garage is gonna make the stock gauges work and all the little detail stuff. Its gonna be as if the LS2 came in the car from the factory, Hes already talking about a twin turbo setup (Doug from U.P. Garage) if anybody reading this is from WA state and u haven't been there already then ur really missing out. Its one of WA best kept secrets.

[ss82480]

Heck when I was down in houston I "saw" a ls powered fd get smoked by an f250 king ranch.

[93 Chuki FB]

i don't think he was racing if he got beat, but like i said in my previous post im going ahead with my KA-T project, i really thought about it and if i buy the CA i wouldn't know what condition its in and i already have a perfectly good motor

[eazye2000]

I saw reference to the Chevy 283 and got excited. That was the first motor I ever 'built'. Lots of money, and spinning to 8.5k, she made 420 crank hp. That's all I needed because it was on our airboat with a bit of gear reduction.


But sorry, I have no idea where this thread is going. Seems like lots of stuff gets off topic lately. lol

[PyR0NiAk]

I use to be a corvette freak, so I HAD to throw that argument in there for my efficiency side.

It seems like pretty much anytime I enter a KA-T thread I end up in an SR vs KA war even though I'm one of the first to tell you that they both have great capabilities of being fast. My only real argument is the SR is more user friendly. The power per liter statements were there just for the stake of argument. (I just think it's a little dumb when people try to argue displacement when they're running a 4 cylinder.)

[PyR0NiAk]

i don't think he was racing if he got beat, but like i said in my previous post im going ahead with my KA-T project, i really thought about it and if i buy the CA i wouldn't know what condition its in and i already have a perfectly good motor

My friend's LS-1 FD only runs a 12.3 quarter... (I think there's a little driver error along with some ungodly thin tires)

[93 Chuki FB]

ok, i calculated the cost of everything i need (i think) and my total came out to $875. This is using mostly eBay brand stuff (i don't care, im not looking for anything more than 220 at the crank). I think i messed up, i went back and read through most of this thread and i just realized that i ordered a 8:1 FMU and not the 6:1 that W D suggested, can i still use this FMU? and what oil should i run, im currently running Valvoline 10w40 synthetic with the 225,000 mile guarantee, this is my list so far for the stuff im ordering

Turbo: $230- Emusa brand, comes with manual and a serial number, and intake hot pipe
BOV: $53- includes adapter pipe
Manifold: $95
FMU: $103- eBay brand, 8:1, is this gonna be a problem?
Oil line feed + Drain: $60- bung not included (cant find it anywhere)
FMIC: $170
Exhaust: $135- includes down pipe and elbow
Boost Gauge: $29

Total: $875

And the best part of this whole this is, since its for school i have access to the school district resources, so that means i get to put it together in a 3 bay garage with 3 full car lifts and every tool imaginable. Not to mention the 3 teacher that work there that have over 100 years of combined experience

[PyR0NiAk]

How dare you get this thread back on topic?!

Either way, does your boost gauge read vacuum? I would also, definitely recommend you get a wideband air/fuel gauge as well.

[93 Chuki FB]

How dare you get this thread back on topic?!

Whoops, my bad lol. And yes it does read vacuum, i wanna make this as reliable as possible, and spend only the minimum amount of money, i know that statement sounds like a contradiction. But there is some truth in it, i like things that are simpler and easy to understand but also cool at the same time, if this works out, then besides for el cheapo KA, this would be the cheapest KA-T that i know of. But unlike him im starting out with a really good platform that has good mileage so it should last some time (im hoping it will last a couple of years, but im still a noob so i don't if this is possible with my setup). So i can use the 8:1 FMU?

[PyR0NiAk]

I've never used FMUs, but if WD told you to get a 6:1 then I'd get rid of the 8:1 and find myself a 6:1.. As much as I like to argue with WD, he knows his s***....

BTW: You get to choose 2 of 3 options when it comes to cars....

1) Fast
2) Reliable
3) Cheap

[s14derrick]

i think the 8:1 willwork. but oull run a tad bit rich

[WDRacing]

i think the 8:1 willwork. but oull run a tad bit rich

That's exactly right

[WDRacing]

BTW: You get to choose 2 of 3 options when it comes to cars....

1) Fast
2) Reliable
3) Cheap

This is mostly right. You can however save a boat load of money if you have the skillz to do things yourself. Since I can weld, not pretty mind you but I can stick metal together, I have been able to save tons of money by making things work rather then buying off the shelf parts. Like my FPR and fuel rail for my current project. I'm down $15 for a rail from a 4.6 Mustang motor and 0 for the FPR because I fabbed some fittings to make the stock fpr work as a stand alone unit. The cheapest top feed rail I could find was $89 at the time and the cheapest FPR was $104.

That's a lot of beer

[Doya]

So i can use the 8:1 FMU?

I was running too rich with a 8:1 FMU also. You can buy a recalibration kit, or you could do what I did. If you take off the top of the FMU, you'll see this metal disk with a whole in it. What I did was cut a 1/4" or so off the entire diameter of the disk. Since I did that, it doesn't backfire any more and there is no more blackish smoke coming out of the exhaust.

[JDmisaac]

your drain bung can be just a hose barb which can be found in hardware stores.
Find out what diameter drain hose you're gonna use and buy a barb that fits it.
Then you have to tap your oilpan there's threads all over that show placement where it needs to be tapped or you can just put your turbo on the car and see where it would run straight down from the turbo drain bung to the oilpan without any turns or kinks.
but after you get your placement for your sake definitely take the oil pan off to drill it.
Then you can tap it and screw your hose barb down into it and have it welded in(yet another thing welding would help) or you can jb weld around where the barb meets and give it it's full curing time. It definitely works and makes things quite easy i've done it this way several times and no problems then you don't have to go through the trouble of finding someone to weld for you. Althought it's obviously not as legit as welding it does work. before you put it back on the car be sure to clean out all the particles that are in the oil pan and remove any gasket that remains on block and on oilpan re gasket it then throw it on there.

or you can check out jgs's site they have the whole feed and drain setup for ka24e with whichever manifold youre using

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

just scroll down and find the one for your turbo that matches your manifold description

hopefully this will be of some help to you i'm on a budget ka-t build myself but you just gotta really research about what everyone else has done cruise all over this site for ka-t build threads and scope peoples pictures and such theres tons of helpful information and anything you cant find just ask i'm sure there's many that can answer whatever question you throw at them.

[WDRacing]

Most barbs you find at hardware stores are brass, so they will need to be brazed. JB Weld does work but if this is your SR Project I wouldn't use any epoxy. You can also weld on a nut that the barb can screw into. That will insure no leaks and it will be very solid. Or order a stainless barb and weld it after it's screwed in.

[93 Chuki FB]

ok i ran into a bit of money, so my budget went from $1k to about $2-2.5k, so im thinking about a SR swap. Im trying to look into all my options, my teacher suggested a small block chevy swap (350-383 CID) im also considering this as well. So what would be a good setup on this budget, BTW i have a turbo and a manifold so far for the KA-T

[SiDwAyZ240]

Hands down, 2-2.5k will go alot further in a KA than it will in an SR. That will just about get a SR in and running. The same in a KA means 300-350HP easy. Buuttt if you decide to go down the road more traveled then

[CRyan]

Hands down, 2-2.5k will go alot further in a KA than it will in an SR. That will just about get a SR in and running. The same in a KA means 300-350HP easy. Buuttt if you decide to go down the road more traveled then

I beg to differ with a very simple statement.

Reliability and time spent > questionable power and fabrication.

Though I have always thought of a KA-T being cool (Hell, I went to Procharger to see how fun that could be), the reliability issue comes down to how each of these engines were built from the factory. Yeah, you can continously put aftermarket parts on it to make it "better", but you are also risking something not going back on right, a possible flaw in the aftermarket application, etc.

2000 to drop in an engine that makes a whistle noise (from factory) in a couple days will always own piecing together a KA-T (as a first timer) and questioning its reliability on a regular basis. Not because its "better", but because with today's "youth", we are more of a now community.

[motoman399]

Haha the factory sr makes like 170 wheel, most ka-t's with 7 psi make close to 200-220 wheel. And 7 psi is very safe to daily. If more people would actually do their homework instead of buying a cheap eBay kit there would be a hell of a lot less problems. So go ahead and spent $2000+ on a waste of aluminum.

[93 Chuki FB]

Haha the factory sr makes like 170 wheel, most ka-t's with 7 psi make close to 200-220 wheel. And 7 psi is very safe to daily. If more people would actually do their homework instead of buying a cheap eBay kit there would be a hell of a lot less problems. So go ahead and spent $2000+ on a waste of aluminum.

ummm.....ok, both engines have their ups and downs. Ive done plenty of research on the KA-T topic, lets just face facts, some KA's handle boost better then others. Ive seen beat to s*** KA's with tons of mileage handle 12 PSI daily driven, ive also seen low mileage KA's, that are in mint condition and everything was done almost perfect with low boost blow up. Don't forget the car has to DD'd and it will see plenty of track time next season, im still torn between the 2. And don't forget i would still be using A lot of eBay parts. Also their is a reason why the SR swap is so popular, the SR was better built for boost and was designed with boost in mind, sure its smaller but that's quickly made up by boost, and i wouldn't be buying a redtop, i would be buying a S14 SR20DET. like i said the reliability factor plays a major role in my decision, my KA is one of the few that runs beyond excellent, i mean the temp never gets to half way mark and it has 180psi across, and it has 145k miles. The engine came from a auto S14 that was owned buy an older guy, sure it runs great but how will it run with boost and how long will it live with 7psi. And this is where the SR shines, im sure if u maintain the sr well, even with some spirited driving it should last a pretty long time. I just cant afford to has a catastrophic engine failure any time soon, and the KA-T is more of a liability when compared to the SR

[motoman399]

It's all in the tune. The sr comes tuned for the turbo, injectors and compression. So if you spend the money on a good tune at your elevation it will run great with low (5-9) psi.

[Agent]

You could go rb I would think for that price as well. Here in NC they are getting stupid cheap.