93hatch240 n/a ka dyno

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
Bigvinnie
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93HATCH240 wrote:
I also have the the standard ngk'r plugs. They didnt have the iridiums in stock.
What do you mean standard? Did you buy copper, or platinum? If you purchased copper your in trouble..The torco fuel should make some nice numbers.


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93HATCH240
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Bigvinnie wrote:What do you mean standard? Did you buy copper, or platinum? If you purchased copper your in trouble..The torco fuel should make some nice numbers.
I know they aren't copper. There the 2 dollar a plug ngk's. I can already feel the diff. in just the idle alone. Its so much smooher and doesnt sound like theres an ever so slight miss like when the bosch plugs were in.

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neverlift
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lol I will that does sound tempting... j/k I'm not selling a thing. I wanted to boost my sohc for so long and just waited and waited, saw this deal and jumped on it, so what if I had to go for the dohc and be"bandwagon" man.

thanks for reminding me, I need to go get some plugs, and they will be copper at least one step colder than stock, ngk. I'll tune it with those and get a good base tune, go back get some iridium and fine tune and done.

ngk own nissan plugs.

huh I figure about 7~10whp from the new additives, I'd suggest for you to get your own wideband so you can "street tune" your afrs, it will save you mad time at the dyno, and you will even save a few dollars per pull as your not gonna need the shops w/bo2... You seem to be a constant tinkerer. you wanna run your na ka against 5 psi?

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93HATCH240
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neverlift wrote:lol I will that does sound tempting... j/k I'm not selling a thing. I wanted to boost my sohc for so long and just waited and waited, saw this deal and jumped on it, so what if I had to go for the dohc and be"bandwagon" man.

thanks for reminding me, I need to go get some plugs, and they will be copper at least one step colder than stock, ngk. I'll tune it with those and get a good base tune, go back get some iridium and fine tune and done.

ngk own nissan plugs.

huh I figure about 7~10whp from the new additives, I'd suggest for you to get your own wideband so you can "street tune" your afrs, it will save you mad time at the dyno, and you will even save a few dollars per pull as your not gonna need the shops w/bo2... You seem to be a constant tinkerer. you wanna run your na ka against 5 psi?
I was gonna get a wideband 02 but there like 250 bucks. But you are right i would save a lot on dyno tuning and what not. You can say im a tinkerer but I just like to be the fastest outta my friends so I have a lil bit to go and i'll be there. I was thinking with all the money i spent on na i could have been ka-t at lke 7psi having fun but nutin beats na instant power. Id say 5psi will get you around 170whp. So whenever you think ure ready i have a shady shot waiting for you lol still wanna run?

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neverlift
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IDK nismo made 220 @5psi insta powa is no issue with a t25 lol, this particular snail(such good condition) I should be able to boost in reverse. I'm geussing around 2000rpm full spool, maybe a lil higher.my only thing about n/a is thats it(unless you throw nawz(most dont/wont)), boost can be upped, bigger injectors and a bigger maf dont do alot for n/a (KA) ,but for boost its a COUPLE ponies easy...... I <3 n/a ka but boost owns.

daggum rain showers put yet another hold on the kitty kat , I'm done except putting on my d/p and intake plumbing.

Bigvinnie
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neverlift wrote:my only thing about n/a is thats it(unless you throw nawz(most dont/wont)), boost can be upped, bigger injectors and a bigger maf dont do alot for n/a (KA) ,but for boost its a COUPLE ponies easy...... I <3 n/a ka but boost owns.

daggum rain showers put yet another hold on the kitty kat , I'm done except putting on my d/p and intake plumbing.
Bolt on's we all know are just minor gains, unless of coarse you go force inducted.The one mod that makes lots of power is the good old port, and polish, and in the ka's case adding one large intake valve per cylinder is also needed for bigger numbers on NA. Yeah its alot of work and money, but the end result in my mind pays for itself in the long run at the gas tanks. If you had a 220WHP NA KA, and a 220WHP Boosted KA which one will get better gas mileage, and better throttle response? Hands down the NA KA, so for people that think they save on a turbo system they end up spending 1/3 more in fuel cost running richer ratio's and larger pulse width injection. One is overall more conservative and the cost in the long run saves alot of pocket change even though it's expensive in the beginning.

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93HATCH240
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neverlift wrote:IDK nismo made 220 @5psi insta powa is no issue with a t25 lol, this particular snail(such good condition) I should be able to boost in reverse. I'm geussing around 2000rpm full spool, maybe a lil higher.my only thing about n/a is thats it(unless you throw nawz(most dont/wont)), boost can be upped, bigger injectors and a bigger maf dont do alot for n/a (KA) ,but for boost its a COUPLE ponies easy...... I <3 n/a ka but boost owns.

daggum rain showers put yet another hold on the kitty kat , I'm done except putting on my d/p and intake plumbing.
So you may have me. And I may have to steal your car after the race either way its a win win for me lol. I've been thinking about boost with my original 220k ka then I swapped in he 95 and thought about it sum more. but I didnt have the money at the time.Being my daily and first turbo car I wasn't gonna risk blowing it.Oh and look what I came home to

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neverlift
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Bigvinnie wrote:
Bolt on's we all know are just minor gains, unless of coarse you go force inducted.The one mod that makes lots of power is the good old port, and polish, and in the ka's case adding one large intake valve per cylinder is also needed for bigger numbers on NA. Yeah its alot of work and money, but the end result in my mind pays for itself in the long run at the gas tanks. If you had a 220WHP NA KA, and a 220WHP Boosted KA which one will get better gas mileage, and better throttle response? Hands down the NA KA, so for people that think they save on a turbo system they end up spending 1/3 more in fuel cost running richer ratio's and larger pulse width injection. One is overall more conservative and the cost in the long run saves alot of pocket change even though it's expensive in the beginning.
your right to a point,but show me a na ka making 220whp first. Now with that said,IF I was to boost at all times(like that would be possible where I live) I would definately kill the gas, but out of boost I should see close to my old mileage. Again show me an n/a ka that makes 220whp, I dont believe it will be making that 220 by 300rpm,while a boosted kat will make its trq(more of it too) sooner. my total including the motor is under a grand(what was your total for 170whp a grand lol not including motor). you cannot will not get 200WHP for under that, the average person cannot pnp by themself or wouldnt attempt to,the larger valve is also out again not everyone can do that at home and a shop would charge nice for that work....not trying to turn this into a de vs det debate. well cause there is none.
93HATCH240 wrote:
So you may have me. And I may have to steal your car after the race either way its a win win for me lol. I've been thinking about boost with my original 220k ka then I swapped in he 95 and thought about it sum more. but I didnt have the money at the time.Being my daily and first turbo car I wasn't gonna risk blowing it.
I feel a na ka would be a great car plenty of "pep",just wont be as fast IMHO. Not to mention the reliability factor. I dont wanna talk about it man this is my daily,and my first time boosting a ka. I did it by myself too lol, my son helped some. I should have been done 2 days ago, rain ,stupid gaskets,stupid stripped studs.... has me 2 days behind my plan, it may have to come back out to remove the sr o2bung(stripped head so I'll need it off the damn car ). well if you do steal it then I'll just take yours, lol I bet its in better condition then mine.

Bigvinnie
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neverlift wrote: Again show me an n/a ka that makes 220whp, I dont believe it will be making that 220 by 300rpm,while a boosted kat will make its trq(more of it too) sooner.
There aren't any, so hopefully once Chris gets these fullycounterweighted cranks sent out we can start seeing these numbers.
neverlift wrote:my total including the motor is under a grand(what was your total for 170whp a grand lol not including motor). you cannot will not get 200WHP for under that, the average person cannot pnp by themself or wouldnt attempt to,the larger valve is also out again not everyone can do that at home and a shop would charge nice for that work....not trying to turn this into a de vs det debate. well cause there is none.
This never was a debate it's just basic fact smaller injectors get better gas mileage. Any time you WOT a turbo charged engine there needs to be more fuel to control the flame front from detonation and heat variable that persist to rise from cramming compressed air into the cylinder chamber.. Thats all it was.. Never was it to be a DE VS.DET debate. Saving fuel at the pump is a debate in itself. Economist estimate fuel will cost over $3.70 for regular by the time they change from the next winter to summer blend of fuel.That would be over $4.00 for supreme. I don't know about you , but thats too rich for my blood..
Modified by Bigvinnie at 7:08 AM 8/7/2007

Bigvinnie
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93HATCH240 wrote:
.Oh and look what I came home to
Are you going to test it out to see what the BUTT dyno tells you or are you going to just wait till the dyno?What is the ratio of the mixture?

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93HATCH240
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Bigvinnie wrote:Are you going to test it out to see what the BUTT dyno tells you or are you going to just wait till the dyno?What is the ratio of the mixture?
Add one 32oz. bottle to a 20 gal tank of 93 will get you 97 octane. 10 gallon tank of 93 with a 32oz. bottle will give 104 octane. and a 5 gallon tank of 93 octane with a 32oz. bottle will give you 107 octane. I'll be doing be doing the BUTT dyno with a can once the new header is installed then ima take it to the dyno if theres a noticable power gain. Which i hope there is.

I still do wanna experiment with a boosted ka with small turbo like the t25 or maybe a t3 super60 . I just dont know yet. I wanna get a new car before I even make plans on boosting my 240.


Modified by 93HATCH240 at 11:17 AM 8/7/2007

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neverlift
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lol thats when meth/water injection comes into play.

93hatch you should be able to feel a gain of 7~10whp wiht the buttdyno3000. time yourself on a few 0~60's and see where you at, then go back wiht the new setup. as for the small turbo on big motor(for a 4 banger), its proven time and time again to have good spool up and make plenty of power, t3/4 your moving lots more air then a t2x, so gains are bigger at same/lower boost and more fuel is needed. took a slow lap around the block, damn wastegate arm fell off lol, had my son in the car too so no real pushing it. sound is great without the d/p though even had the cops called on me, fuct arse people wanna stay up partying all night radio bumpin but ***** when I wait till 930 am to start my car and test it out, fuggem. Cop and I laughed for a minute his words "for what its worth, your neighbors dont like you revving your car, lol" then he drove away after I said oh well. Him and his partner drove of laughing, good times ftwI move in a week or so, when I'm gone I plan to do late night boost cruise's by all my neighbors houses. I feel bad but you dont get none you dont give NONE. maybe even get a rice bov and just let it dump a few times...... I'm an *******

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93HATCH240
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neverlift wrote:lol thats when meth/water injection comes into play.

93hatch you should be able to feel a gain of 7~10whp wiht the buttdyno3000. time yourself on a few 0~60's and see where you at, then go back wiht the new setup. as for the small turbo on big motor(for a 4 banger), its proven time and time again to have good spool up and make plenty of power, t3/4 your moving lots more air then a t2x, so gains are bigger at same/lower boost and more fuel is needed. took a slow lap around the block, damn wastegate arm fell off lol, had my son in the car too so no real pushing it. sound is great without the d/p though even had the cops called on me, fuct arse people wanna stay up partying all night radio bumpin but ***** when I wait till 930 am to start my car and test it out, fuggem. Cop and I laughed for a minute his words "for what its worth, your neighbors dont like you revving your car, lol" then he drove away after I said oh well. Him and his partner drove of laughing, good times ftwI move in a week or so, when I'm gone I plan to do late night boost cruise's by all my neighbors houses. I feel bad but you dont get none you dont give NONE. maybe even get a rice bov and just let it dump a few times...... I'm an *******
Lol annoying a$$ neighbors FTL. I have a few like that so when i come home late at night i put my car in 2nd gear at like 45mph and let it rip. . Hopefully the buttdyno3000 is correct. That would make me very happy in the pants lol. Have fun boosting. I may not be far behind you soon. its starting to look pretty good to me as of recently. I'm going to englishtown to run my car in the 1/4 mile and see what time i am looking at.

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neverlift
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its great , took a run to the store, it was to say the least fun, idle was wack due to too loose bov, made exactly 5 psi like I wanted. Fuel seemed fine.... I need to install my w/bo2 in my d/p and put them on the car... that why they are mad, open dump ftw. having some idle issues being I'm running vta/ota bov, you cant use a bypass valve my fvcking ***. Still pulling 20vac so its minute, but I was at 21~22before so I need to get a longer bolt I geuss. I'm though.

you should think about the crank vin always talks about... the b/c fully balanced one, it would help broaden the powa band, or at least make you have one over 5500rpm, part of the reason I went kitty kat, I was sick of trying to keep the drift rpms below 6000rpm and above4500 lol pita, made me better though I'm sure I wish the track was open I'd give it a few runs. oh yeah meant to say earlier, boost starts around 1800rpm, and makes 5by 3k.none of this at more then 3/4 throttle too. I need to make a thread today or tomorrow, so I can leave yours alone, sorry man.

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93HATCH240
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neverlift wrote:its great , took a run to the store, it was to say the least fun, idle was wack due to too loose bov, made exactly 5 psi like I wanted. Fuel seemed fine.... I need to install my w/bo2 in my d/p and put them on the car... that why they are mad, open dump ftw. having some idle issues being I'm running vta/ota bov, you cant use a bypass valve my fvcking ***. Still pulling 20vac so its minute, but I was at 21~22before so I need to get a longer bolt I geuss. I'm though.

you should think about the crank vin always talks about... the b/c fully balanced one, it would help broaden the powa band, or at least make you have one over 5500rpm, part of the reason I went kitty kat, I was sick of trying to keep the drift rpms below 6000rpm and above4500 lol pita, made me better though I'm sure I wish the track was open I'd give it a few runs. oh yeah meant to say earlier, boost starts around 1800rpm, and makes 5by 3k.none of this at more then 3/4 throttle too. I need to make a thread today or tomorrow, so I can leave yours alone, sorry man.
Lol who cares about the neighbors. If they wanna b**ch then let them. But you have to deal with them so your choice.I'm not really looking into tearing my motor apart. I'm not that confident in doing so. I might be selling my car actually but idk. I don't wanna get rid of it though. I have a lot of reasons 2and a lot not to. I'll see what happens within the next few months. Anyways the header should be here this week and I just need to get it welded up since I have no egr.

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hakosuka86
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nice

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neverlift
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93HATCH240 wrote:
Lol who cares about the neighbors. If they wanna b**ch then let them. But you have to deal with them so your choice.I'm not really looking into tearing my motor apart. I'm not that confident in doing so. I might be selling my car actually but idk. I don't wanna get rid of it though. I have a lot of reasons 2and a lot not to. I'll see what happens within the next few months. Anyways the header should be here this week and I just need to get it welded up since I have no egr.
reliability already is a failure lol, I geuss its me own fault.....I took care of it though, I should be able to do an entire install in like 45 minutes soon though. Including removal..... pita ftl ,powa ftw.I'm telling you though, kat or nothing, 5psi non intercooled I'd bet on 180ish wheels 3/4th throttle is plenty, I only hit wot like 2 times. Hardly any lag, its nice. damn your gonna sell already??? hate to see someone that is trying to push the envelope let it go so soon...

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93HATCH240
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neverlift wrote:reliability already is a failure lol, I geuss its me own fault.....I took care of it though, I should be able to do an entire install in like 45 minutes soon though. Including removal..... pita ftl ,powa ftw.I'm telling you though, kat or nothing, 5psi non intercooled I'd bet on 180ish wheels 3/4th throttle is plenty, I only hit wot like 2 times. Hardly any lag, its nice. damn your gonna sell already??? hate to see someone that is trying to push the envelope let it go so soon...
I honestly don't know what i'm doing. Ive wanted to sell for a while cuz i havent been satisfied with the results ive been getting up until the cam and neo install. I'm going to see how my car runs the 1/4 mile with either 103 or 107 octane then go from there. Thats like the make it or break it weekend for me. boost. lol I have sum research to do. Bigvin might not like either of us lol sorry Vin. But until then na beating the hell outta it.

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neverlift
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yeah N/A ka is not gonna gain emo big results, I think the crank(the b/c one) would be the best investment regardless of boosted or not, just pricey IMO. Getting the power higher up is gonna allow more to be made, if that made sense. Part of the fall off of the ka is form the crank trying to destroy itself after 5k. lol I used to really floor it all the time, beat the fizzle out of the na without regards to any issues, now I'm very carefull, Hell its fast enough to shift at like 4grand now and be speeding pretty bad.

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93HATCH240
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neverlift wrote: yeah N/A ka is not gonna gain emo big results, I think the crank(the b/c one) would be the best investment regardless of boosted or not, just pricey IMO. Getting the power higher up is gonna allow more to be made, if that made sense. Part of the fall off of the ka is form the crank trying to destroy itself after 5k. lol I used to really floor it all the time, beat the fizzle out of the na without regards to any issues, now I'm very carefull, Hell its fast enough to shift at like 4grand now and be speeding pretty bad.
I wasn't really looking for big results. Hell when i first went to the dyno with my friend we were guessing at like 140whp or sumthing stupid like that. If I wanted big na numbers id go LS1. But I can't really spend $1300 on a crank. If i wasnt thinking of selling it would be a diff story. But 1300 bucks if spent i would never see that back once installed. Thats half the prcie I could sell my car for lol see my point? You wanna talk about beaing on it na ka. I'm on my 2nd motor and 3rd transmission. First transmission had 200k on it with the original clutch and i blew the clutch after like 3 days after it got on the road. So i went out and got a act clutch, fidanza flywheel and low mile transmission. Then sumhow 1st and 2nd gear blew. 3rd,4th 5th and R worked fine but taking off in 3rd equals major riding of $400 clutch. so new transmission is kinda holding up. I still have an auto pilot bearing in the motor with my manual trans which make sum insteresting noises lol.I'm starting to look into other power methods besides turbo. I love the na powerband and dont wanna have to wait for a turbo to spool so I have a supercharged ka in mind since it will make nice constant power idle to redline. But as of now i'm just looking.
Modified by 93HATCH240 at 8:59 PM 8/9/2007

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93HATCH240
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Just a lil. update for those of you who are still following this. I got rid of the crappy rusted pacesetter and now have a obx 4-2-1 header installed. The exhaust sounda a lot better and it also provided a decent power gain on t he butt dyno. Also the torco gives it a lil extra kick throught the rpm. I mixed one 32 oz. bottle of torco with about 8-10 gallons of 93 octane which equals about 104 octane. And 1 question i'm not sure about that searching didnt help. I have to rip off my upper intake manifold next week to replace the 4 vaccuum lines that go to each cylinder. 2 of them are cracked and are making my car idle like $hit and feel a bit sluggish. Do 95 motors have the scv in them I'm using a 95 block with my 93 intake manifold. Just wondering if the scv's can be removed when changing the hoses. Thanks

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neverlift
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no time to bs right now but ,use the 95 intake(lower manifold) it has no scv....

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93HATCH240
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neverlift wrote:no time to bs right now but ,use the 95 intake(lower manifold) it has no scv....
So just keep the 95 lower manifold and keep my 93 upper?Oh and sorry bout not geting back to you sooner about the sr side mount. I won't be needing it. I've been busy and sumhow i now have a hole in my frame rail and its crushed in another from my jack while putting on my obx header.
Modified by 93HATCH240 at 10:31 PM 8/19/2007

Bigvinnie
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93HATCH240 wrote:
So just keep the 95 lower manifold and keep my 93 upper?
He means the 95 upper half, you want to use the 93 lower or else you will have to take all the obd1 parts and transfer them on to the 95+ lower.. PORT, EXTRUDE/HONE of my 95 upper, NO SCV's

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neverlift
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thanks vin I was a lil backwards lastnight..... 5 hours installing flooring for the first time owned me lol, yeah use the s14 upper and s13 lower.... my bad.

yeah my fraem has some slight bents in it lol, part of teh reason I started abusing this car. I'll try to sell it or take it to the metal scrap place for a few bux gas...

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93HATCH240
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Thanks for clearing that up Vin. DId you port,hone and extrude the mani. yourself?Neverlift- My frame rail is actually crushed and to think i was laying underneath it while putting my new purrty header on scared me a lil but it got the job done. Now I have to fix and exhaust leak right b4 and right after the cat. Stupid pacesetter had a lil bend at the end of the header and the obx doesnt. I had my x haust welded up to fit the pacesetter so now I have leaks.

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93HATCH240 wrote:Thanks for clearing that up Vin. DId you port,hone and extrude the mani. yourself?
Yes I did I even made the do it yourself thread at the forum I moderate at. Feel free to browse. The mani isn't finished yet but almost is and I need to get it in on the dyno ASAP.http://www.club240.com/forums/...39204

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93HATCH240
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Bigvinnie wrote:Yes I did I even made the do it yourself thread at the forum I moderate at. Feel free to browse. The mani isn't finished yet but almost is and I need to get it in on the dyno ASAP.http://www.club240.com/forums/...39204
Very nice. I just scrolled threw it since im "working" i really can't read the whole thing right now. I wanna look into ITB's. Ive heard a few good things about them.


Modified by 93HATCH240 at 1:01 PM 8/21/2007

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neverlift
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well picked up a p60 maf yesterday now if I could only fix my damn car. lolgoing back in a few day for the injectors woot, I'll be able to really see what this thing can do. lol after I fix the car. once back runnign right I'll have to re tune again for maf. grrr

is it a leak that can be filled with rtv? I used some on my cat after I did my cat back... even know a guy wit some on his sr d/p cat connection.

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93HATCH240
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The leak is right were the header connects to the cat and where the cat connects to the rest of the x haust. I tried using sum muffler weld arond the flanges but that didnt work. I'll try trv or jb weld.


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