2009 240Z build

[gmac708]

I got the little door for accessing the tank cap done. I think it turned out pretty good.



The push button latch is from a Learjet, don't ask....



Welding is next.



Hope to get more time this weekend.

[S13AL]

The push button latch is from a Learjet

You're going to need it when you break the sound barrier with that rb26.

[gmac708]

Time for an update.

Worked on getting the floor finished today. Cameron also had a little oil leak to fix , so I kind of tried to lend a helping hand.



I am punching a hole in the top sheet metal and spot welding to the lower panel. Just like spot welding.



I also acid etched panels prior to install. I also primered the lower surface.



Things moved along well.



Same thing for the center panel...punch holes and prep...



I ground down the spot welds where panels overlapped, also acid etched surface again.



Trying to get used to the warmer temps. Man... it's hot in here...



OK, so grind down the welds on the flat surface. The seam sealer will cover the spot welds around the outside.



A coat of primer...



Got Z swapped around in the garage...getting ready for working on getting the engine running next...



Overall happy with the tank install.

I still need to weld ground strap bracket and a bung for the fuel tank drain. I'll get them done this week.



I'll take the radiator over at the same time. It needs a drain valve too...and maybe a bracket for attaching overflow can...

Time for a beer...

Gord

[gmac708]

An update.

I started to make some modifications to the rear transmission mount on the passenger side. I will post pictures of that later.

I did pull the engine out.



I finished up welding the forward fuel line brackets as well.



I decided it would be a good time to get the clutch installed. Twin carbon stack. Picked it up from Ricky at Raw Brokerage.




I got started on the assembly and I can't find my alignment tool for the clutch plate. I had one left over from the SR swap. I tore the garage apart and could not find it. Crap!



I did a best guess estimate but I'm probably going to have to re-stack the clutch before I can mount the transmission. Crap! Anybody around Columbus got an alignment tool for RB?



What a big let down for me. I wanted to mate the engine/transmission and get it sitting back in the car. I'm not going to risk cracking the carbon plates and I need the alignment tool. I'll call Ricky on Tuesday.

Still have lots to do...

I'm thinking about naming her Betsy, kinda like BetZ, play on the Z thing. Or just Bets for short. Better than Z. And "she" is coming together.
And for our Canadian following it is not pronounced Bet"zed"

[IanS]

Looking awesome as always man. Just wait until she fires up for the first time, its an incredible feeling.

[S13AL]

Are you planning on caging it?

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I did get my FMIC piping welded and installed. It came out perfect.

I couldn't agree more. Are you planning on doing some Z specific strip down the valve cover, or leaving it skyline? This project is amazing, I love it. My boss hates it though, because I haven't done ANYTHING but read it for the last hour!

Thanks for the inspiration and ideas for when my brother and I tackle a different type of retro Datsun project!

Oh, and IMO for the color (since I didn't see you decided yet):

[maroon240]

Greetings from Andersen AFB, Guam keep up the amazing work I'll be looking forward to the updates.

[USsil80]

Greetings from Andersen AFB, Guam keep up the amazing work I'll be looking forward to the updates.

i see you are at Minot.. i was stationed there for four years... not a fun place at all!

[hbpignosePA]

looks like its finally comming together man

beautiful as always

[gmac708]

Sorry no updates for a while but I have been working in the yard and getting the "honey do" list completed. Everything is caught up now and were ready for summer!

Time for an update on Betz.

Last time I tried to get the clutch installed and ended up not doing it because I did not have my alignment tool. Well...I'm waiting for Coolwhip to send me one. It should be here soon. I did put the engine back in and played around with the rear transmission mount.

Today I pulled the engine...again...(I'm getting good at it)



I finished up the mount.

Here is the before picture. I had to remove the marked area for clearance.



Cut mount. Notice new hole on bottom.






This is the after picture.



Now I have a bunch of room for the speedometer drive.



Cut mount...Everything went well.








I also repaired the neutral and reverse switches on the transmission. The wires were broken and pulled out.That's all done.

Next on list was the oil drain on the forward turbo. The McKinney mount required the drain line to be modified.

Here is the tubing. One side threads into block and the other bolts to bottom of turbo. I tried to find hoses and adapters but ended up fabbing the stuff myself.

I cut the flange off so I could rotate the elbow to fit around the mount. I welded it back to the correct angle.



I cut the drain tube off to shorten it.



Found my old parker tool for rolling a bead on the end of it.





Put back together. Now it clears the mount.



Put the hose back on.





Rear turbo ready to go



and...put the engine back in.



Hot/humid day. Joey found the fan helped.



That's it for now

Gord

[IanS]

Dont mind me, Im just in here stealin your skillz.

Looking beautiful as always. MORE UPDATES.

[gmac708]

Dont mind me, Im just in here stealin your skillz.

Looking beautiful as always. MORE UPDATES.

I was over on your page, admiring your skillz, lol.

[RustspecS13]

Nice progress!

I was going to say you could probably get a Z32 clutch alignment tool from any parts store. I doubt a ka one would work, I think the z32 is different/bigger, not quite sure though.

BTW I work at defined autoworks with logan and peter now! We are at a new shop too, its at 1826 e livingston ave so stop by some time!

~Alex

[gmac708]

Nice progress!

I was going to say you could probably get a Z32 clutch alignment tool from any parts store. I doubt a ka one would work, I think the z32 is different/bigger, not quite sure though.

BTW I work at defined autoworks with logan and peter now! We are at a new shop too, its at 1826 e livingston ave so stop by some time!

~Alex

Cool
I have a bunch of welding to do. I'll be over this week.

[carps13guy]

perfection. i always love your updates due to your attention to detail. car is going to be a show worthy monster once your done

[DJButton]

Just discovered this, you make NICO proud, excellent build so far!

[evildky]

Nice progress!

I was going to say you could probably get a Z32 clutch alignment tool from any parts store. I doubt a ka one would work, I think the z32 is different/bigger, not quite sure though.

BTW I work at defined autoworks with logan and peter now! We are at a new shop too, its at 1826 e livingston ave so stop by some time!

~Alex

actually the KS the VG the L6, RB SR and just about every other nissan clutch uses the same alignment tool

[darens13]

i just spent the morning reading through the whole thread! this is an awesome build great job!

[HxC_Nismo]

the progress is looking great man. when is your anticipated start up date?

[gmac708]

Time for an update.

We have a new addition to our family...My youngest son Evan purchased his first car. A 96 Civic hatch. Already had v-tec-swap-hack-up-with "most hardware missing" job.



It's a piece of work...but we got the air conditioning going, fixed the alternator, replaced the suspension and the stereo, removed the exhaust and installed header. We are waiting for cat-back exhaust and Evan is trying to figure out the wheels. Lots of fun and getting some quality time with him.



Anyway...that and Cameron's car have kept me away from Betzy. I did get a few things done today.

I am removing the original oil filter housing/water heat exchanger that comes stock with the engine. This is how it came.



I removed everything and purchased an adapter from Rickey at Raw Brokerage. Now you could just screw a filter to the block. It's a 3/4 X 16 thread (same as stock Nissan and Ford, Chrysler, Dodge filter).



But... I am going to use a remote filter for ease of filter change and my remote has a valve that will direct the oil to a cooler when it gets hot.
Here is the block adapter.



Here is the remote and the little bracket I made up. It bolts to the frame.



Filter access is now down here behind the front cross member.



The two bolts securing the bracket go through the frame. I also made up a little plate that sits on top of the frame to help protect it.



I made the hoses to connect the adapters...



And then the hoses to the cooler...



I don't have a cooler yet. The hose loops up around, in front of the FMIC for now. I'll figure something out...

Time for a beer...cheers *clink* happy 4th.

Gord

[evildky]

what motor mounts are those?

[gmac708]

what motor mounts are those?

Those are McKinny mounts. I powdercoated them black. They used to be red.

Update for today.

I finished up the plumbing under the intake manifold today.

The air chamber got an aluminum blanking plate installed. Those tubes were on the aft side of the airchamber and those are not going to be used. No power brakes.



I sealed the water tube openings that used to feed the oil/water heat exchanger by flattening the tubes and welding them shut. Best thing I could come up with at the time. Added a shot of paint to protact surface.



Here is everything back in place. Kind of busy in that area.



A little review. My best guess from what I have read and tried to figure out.

Here is the water system.

Red line is from rear of block going to heater. Purple line is back from heater and makes it's way back to water pump, by-passing the thermostat. This should heat up water quickly. Light blue line is cool water returning from radiator, waiting for thermostat to open. Yellow arrow is water out to radiator. Water can't flow until thermostat opens. Dark blue line is water flowing around head intake next to ITB's. It joins back up with green line which makes it back to water pump and also around the back of the engine over to the turbo's.



Here is the water for turbo cooling system. I think the flow changes direction with thermostat open.




Here is the vacuum system

The balance tube sits behind the Independent throttle bodies (ITB's). The green lines connect the air chamber to the balance tube. At idle, the air from the intake goes down dark blue line and is drawn through the AAC valve into the air chamber and then to the cylinders via the green lines and then the balance tube. In very cold conditions (-20C) air will also enter via the light blue line. This air regulator valve is partially hidden behind the air chamber. It closes at approx 60C. Red line is intake manifold reference pressure. This goes to the waste gate actuators, boost gauges etc. The air chamber has a few ports that can be used. These are almost always under vacuum relative to intake manifold, especially when you lift or close throttle. This is a good place to source the BOV and power brake vacuum, Anything downstream of ITB's is vacuum, upstream is boosted or pressure. Vacuum is relative and exists, even under boosted conditions. Balance tube has PCV valve for venting crankcase pressure back into intake. The thing to remember is that at power, above idle speed, all the air goes through the ITB's. Everything else is used for idle only.



OK back to assembly...

ITB's are next.


Intake went on next. Air chamber bolts to bottom.




View under manifold. everything was a good fit.



And that raps up this side. Still need to pick up some hose clamps, but that's about it.



Got the water lines back on this side. Maybe I should put some SS braided lines over here? I'll get the MAF's figured out first, then maybe some "bling".



It's starting to come together.

Gord

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Such an awesome build, loving the updates! 2 quick questions:



Is there a black silicone hose available for that compressor outlet?

And was there ever a PTU recall for the Skyline like the Z32 had? Your PTU appears to be very similar to the old style Z32 PTU.

[evildky]

I'm pretty sure you cna get a silicoln hose in teh correct diameter and the approximate angle needed (22degree?) although with the popularity of the RB someone most likley makes a purpose built hose

and I'm pretty sure the RB came with the same PTU asthe early VG but the recall was in the US only, which si why so many front cuts and pallet vg's come with the old style ptu

and I'm pretty sure it's the cams cas as well

[Coolwhip]

PTU is similar but the not the same. Haven't found problems with them amoung our customers.

[evildky]

PTU is similar but the not the same. Haven't found problems with them amoung our customers.

what si different? the wire connectors? themounting surface? they are both 6 channel transistors

[raremotive]

Once the thermostat opens a greater draw of flow is present in the yellow marked pipe, so the green marked lines will only go to the draw; it doesn't reverse direction.

The question is does lie whether if the thermostat lets a small amount of water through.... which would allow a small amount of draw to the rad through the yellow marked pipe....which would aid the green marked line... Or the green marked flow actually is sucked back into the block until the thermostat opens..or doesn't flow at all..

[RustspecS13]

PTU is similar but the not the same. Haven't found problems with them amoung our customers.

what si different? the wire connectors? themounting surface? they are both 6 channel transistors

The ground is on opposite sides and I think the order is slightly different. I swapped a newer ptu on my rb20 and it just took a few minuets and a new/re routed ground.

~Alex

[evildky]

I'm nto sure ont eh RB specific but genrally there si a small bypass somewhere that allows a small amount of coolant to get by until the thermostat opens, on the L6 the bypass si though the heater and turbo/tb cooant lines, and since i run no heater I out a restrictor int he heater lines to keep it fomr constantly recirculating the same hot coolant, I also put a restrictor in the turbo/tb return line to keep it form recirculating so much hot coolant as it's fed form the hot coolant in the head as well