2009 240Z build

[svairman]

Will you be putting a set of the headlight covers on there? I know its personal preference but I think they really improve the look of the front, im sure it improves aero a bit too

[raremotive]

^ I like the open headlights. By preference.

[gmac708]

2 quick questions:

Is there a black silicone hose available for that compressor outlet?

And was there ever a PTU recall for the Skyline like the Z32 had? Your PTU appears to be very similar to the old style Z32 PTU.

That hose is low on my priority list, maybe later on. I had no idea they were having problems with the PTU.

Will you be putting a set of the headlight covers on there? I know its personal preference but I think they really improve the look of the front, im sure it improves aero a bit too .

I like the open look.

Once the thermostat opens a greater draw of flow is present in the yellow marked pipe, so the green marked lines will only go to the draw; it doesn't reverse direction.

The question is does lie whether if the thermostat lets a small amount of water through.... which would allow a small amount of draw to the rad through the yellow marked pipe....which would aid the green marked line... Or the green marked flow actually is sucked back into the block until the thermostat opens..or doesn't flow at all..

Both turbo's feed the green line and it goes around the front to yellow arrow and around back...



...to "t" into dark blue line and then eventually to pump inlet.



Here is stock engine showing lines going fore and aft more clearly.



Maybe the line around front is for when you shut down and the turbo's cook off the water and the flow is more of a covection flow. Thermostat would still remain open and heated water would flow through radiator and cool and return to block...

I'm nto sure ont eh RB specific but genrally there si a small bypass somewhere that allows a small amount of coolant to get by until the thermostat opens, on the L6 the bypass si though the heater and turbo/tb cooant lines, and since i run no heater I out a restrictor int he heater lines to keep it fomr constantly recirculating the same hot coolant, I also put a restrictor in the turbo/tb return line to keep it form recirculating so much hot coolant as it's fed form the hot coolant in the head as well

Good idea. My turbo source water is from the left side of the block, opposite side as heater supply water.



I have read so many articles about RB's overheating. I want to keep it as close to stock for now. Hope it runs cool. I have read a few articles about eliminating the turbo cooling water hoses all together. Some say you are OK as long as you let them cool down or get a turbo timer.

...I worked this weekend and ended up not spending any time on Betzy.
Gordon

[raremotive]

I been building up a rb26 too. I been talking with a japanese tuner, he said to make sure to gasket match the coolant outlets coming from the head because the flashing left over from casting the head can impede flow. Second he said make sure to get all the air out, boiling coolant inside the head is bad news. I also been lurking UK and Australia forums, and I found a good number of successes with a air bleeding canister. It plugs into the the air bleeder then it goes into a canister swirl pot.. and back to the pump. Basically it allows air to bleed out continuously, instead of once with the bleeding procedure.

Then he said the rest is how you set up your rad, and most importantly tuning.

I also noticed you have an R32 block, so you have a short snout crank. The oil drive is only about 1/4 of a inch in contact with the pump; should be about 1/2". Many people had success with the RB32, but they didn't rev them crazy either. From reading around, the real enemy is air bubbles that get sucked and causes full blow cavitation. Most just make sure they have an accurate oil pressure meter. The more you know...

[evildky]

if you haven't already read up on stony's build you might want to, he started his first rb s30 years back and pioneered a lot of this stuff, his car has morphed a lot over the years as he has continued to chase out the weakness, he's on a lot of forums unfortunately not here

[raremotive]

I have actually, he used what I believe is called a GT cooling mod, used they did race with the RB... he ended up tossing this ITB's for a big single. This would allow him to remove the balance tube and plunge into the adapter piece to draw the coolant from there to be swirled in a pot and returned to the rad.

[RustspecS13]

Gordon if you ever have any ptu issues I have 2 or 3 I've pulled from j30s with the wiring connectors as well, so if you ever need one lmk.

~Alex

[mRodiek]

[img]

LOVE the fender mirrors, gives it an old-school look, as if the car isnt already lol

[gmac708]

if you haven't already read up on stony's build you might want to, he started his first rb s30 years back and pioneered a lot of this stuff, his car has morphed a lot over the years as he has continued to chase out the weakness, he's on a lot of forums unfortunately not here

One of my fave's over on HybridZ. Great wealth of knowledge.

The more you know...

could not agree with you more!

Gordon if you ever have any ptu issues I have 2 or 3 I've pulled from j30s with the wiring connectors as well, so if you ever need one lmk.

~Alex

OK

A little update.

I dropped my radiator and fuel tank with the guys down at Defined Autoworks. It looks like Logan, Peter and Alex have their hands full getting the new shop going. I ordered a few clamps and they are going to weld some drains on the the aluminum rad and fuel tank. I forgot to ask for the bonding lug on the fuel tank...guess I'll have to get that next week. I also picked up a clutch alignment tool from Advanced Auto for 2 bucks. P/N 14501. 1" X 24 spine fit the clutch perfect and the pilot bearing also fits. I tried on SR pilot bearing I had laying around. I guess they are all the same. It was too hot this week to think about pulling the engine and finishing up the clutch, so I finished a few loose ends up front.

I got the forward bulkhead covered up. I made up a plate and welded it in. I was thinking about putting an oil cooler over here but couldn't find anything small enough.





I figured the cooler should be mounted to the front air dam. I hate doing the fiberglass but that's where it is going.

I also started to fab up the brackets to secure the top of the FMIC.



Not quite done yet, but I should have them welded in by tomorrow...

That's it for now...things are getting busy around here...with Evan's Civic and Cam's 240SX...



I am whipped, time for a beer

Gord

[S13AL]

Your RB looks nice and cosy under that towel.
Hope you get it running soon.

[gmac708]

Your RB looks nice and cosy under that towel.
Hope you get it running soon.

Me too. I had the towel on it to protect paint. Lot's of crap flying around the garage lately.


Update

I got the brackets finished up on top of the FMIC. I used the nut insert I used for the ZG flares to attach the brackets to the cross support.





Turned out clean looking.





I started playing around with the MAFS and pulled the left fender off. This is something I have been tossing around for a while. I could stick a couple filters back along side of the turbo's or...go for the cold air intake. That might require cutting the inner fender out for routing two MAFS and filters.

Lot's of room forward of wheel...





I could notch out about 8" of the forward part of the fender and have more than enough room...

Things to consider

Later RB update might be single turbo, everything gets changed anyway.
Chip/computer and tune could eliminate MAFS. Do I do it now, or keep it stock.
Is cold air intake that important, I mean is it really worth it (HP gain)?
Air scoop / louver on hood for alternate cold air induction?

Going to think about it. Gord

[raremotive]

Later RB update might be single turbo, everything gets changed anyway.
Chip/computer and tune could eliminate MAFS. Do I do it now, or keep it stock.
Is cold air intake that important, I mean is it really worth it (HP gain)?
Air scoop / louver on hood for alternate cold air induction?

With your complexity of the build upgrading the rb26 should wait, especially while it's still in stock goodies too. This will let you shakedown your whole car and make sure you are getting every ounce of fun out of it.

I don't know why people call the kits cold air..there's no real gurantee it's colder. but in theory colder air lets the in cylinder be less det prone, which means more power. Another point of view is thermodynamics, one principle is the greater the temperature difference between the input and output of the system, the more work is outputted. This applies to a turbo turbine too. Pretty neat to think about, increasing overall efficiencies.

How you planning to go MAFless? Speed density? or just MAP?

[jem003]

I love this thread Gordon, Dreaming of a car in future. I been reading this thread about an 1 hour and 45 minutes and I didn't notice the time maybe someday i will buy a 96 civic hatch just like the car of you youngest son and my Dad teach me on everything, because my Dad is good in cars, I remember when I was a kid he always with him when he had to repair a car, and I remember the 1954 Chrysler Hemi an owner was a doctor and I like her, because she love her vintage car so much, and also she is so kind. anyway keep up the good work gordon, I can't wait to see the result of your work and I will visit this thread everyday to see any updates on your masterpiece

[SHIFT_COUPE]

Amazing. Just read it all. I was dreading getting to the end!

[Eikon]

Hey Gord,
Do you have a ballpark estimate on "start-up" day for the motor?
I've been meaning to get down to Columbus someday and check it out in person. I figure the day you fire it up for the first time would be a good one. You thinking it'll happen in August yet or maybe Sept?

[gmac708]

maybe someday i will buy a 96 civic hatch just like the car of you youngest son and my Dad teach me on everything, because my Dad is good in cars, I remember when I was a kid he always with him when he had to repair a car, and I remember the 1954 Chrysler Hemi an owner was a doctor and I like her, because she love her vintage car so much, and also she is so kind.

Sounds like a great idea

Hey Gord,
Do you have a ballpark estimate on "start-up" day for the motor?
I've been meaning to get down to Columbus someday and check it out in person. I figure the day you fire it up for the first time would be a good one. You thinking it'll happen in August yet or maybe Sept?

I hope to get it running by end of August but still have a few items to work out. I think once I get the cold air intake pipe and the wiring done it should be ready to start up. I'll keep everybody posted and... Everybody is always welcome to drop by.

I installed the fuel tank after the drain was installed. Needs the wiring done but that's about it.



The drain for the radiator is done as well.



I played around with the intake piping and have to wait for a couple more parts to arrive. That's about it for today.

Gord

[USsil80]

looking very good... quick question... how low is the radiator compared to the rack and pinion... the drain looks really low??
/2 cents

[evildky]

the early S30 chassis (240Z) had the straight across core support like this, the later S30's (280Z) had a lower coresupport to accomodate the larger radiator used in the 280Z, thats still higher than his crossmsmber and air dam but I'd have put the tap on the backside

[gmac708]

the early S30 chassis (240Z) had the straight across core support like this, the later S30's (280Z) had a lower coresupport to accomodate the larger radiator used in the 280Z, thats still higher than his crossmsmber and air dam but I'd have put the tap on the backside

It looks worse than it really is, but it is still in a spot where something could be kicked up off the road and knock it off. The air dam is 4.5" clearance at the center. The drain is at 6". The front cross member under engine and steering rack is at 4.5". The oil pan is about 4.25". I can always screw in an allen screw type plug to get an extra inch clearance. I have also seen the drains put in the lower radiator hose as well. Not a total loss yet...

Gord

[gmac708]

A quick update.
I had to extend the FMIC pipe on the R/H side. I don't know how I screwed up the measurement. When I secured the FMIC in the vertical position, the tubing on the right side was about 1/2" too short to connect to the intake manifold. I just cut off the old flange, made a new one a bit longer, and Peter welded it up for me. He also welded on the BOV flange.



It came out fitting perfect and everything should stay in place.




I also got my air filters and adapters from Tru Motorsports in Indy.
Two Kits p/n 12500302. includes AY-SB 70MM Airnx filter and rubber adapters. It did not include the aluminum flange for MAF's. Stock MAF flanges were 65mm and a little smaller bolt pattern. Jeorge at Tru motorsports figured out what I needed and sent them along with the filters.



I start working on getting those hooked up this weekend.
Gord

[gmac708]

An update.
I started the filter inlet piping today. I located the filters forward of the front turbo. There is not much room up there and things are starting to get squished.



The tubing is pretty straight forward.

The front turbo filter is going to be a simple section of a tight radius 2.5" elbow welded to a flange.




Add the MAF and a coupling and everything should be good. I will still have to fab up a small support bracket later.



The rear turbo is going to require a few more pieces. We are going with the section of a tight radius aluminum to a flange, and add some tubing...



...and then a little bend back out to the MAF and filter.



Roll a bead on each end...



I will get these welded up this week...



I'll post some more pictures when everything gets together.

Time for a beer, it was hot today...Gord

[gmac708]

An update.

Well...I expected to have a lot more done this weekend, but I had one of those days yesterday that drove me crazy. I ended giving up and just putting the tools away after several hours of messing up on my sheet metal baffle for the radiator. Stuff like that happens. Better to put the tools down and try something else, which brings us to today, and the air filters...

I have them mounted and in. I added a bracket to support the upper filter on the hot pipe. I also added a slight bend to the lower filter pipe (temporary blue tape holding it).





I'll get Pete to weld them up tomorrow. It came out better looking than I thought it would. It is really busy down there.







The lower MAF is supported by brackets attached to fender. Upper is going to be supported by hot pipe.



I'll get back to the radiator baffle in a few days. I need a bigger brake for bending the aluminum.

Gord

[S13AL]

Triple post!
Is it tough to recirculate BOV with twin turbos?

[gmac708]

Triple post!
Is it tough to recirculate BOV with twin turbos?

Tougher than to not recirculate. I suppose I could have mounted the BOV in a position that would have made recirculating easier, like on the driver side, and I would have had to add a couple of extra tubes. I thought about it for a little but decided to just vent the air. Maybe the next Z will get it

"triple post"

Update


I'm working on the radiator fan shroud.

I had better success this weekend. I'm working with 2024T3 aluminum .032. Seems pretty stable.



Bent it on box brake at work. Fit like a glove.



I need to cut out the big hole in the middle next...wish me luck.




Gord

[S13AL]

My bad not triple post.
It must be nice to have the ability to fabricate some of your parts like the fan shroud.
Especially for a car this old, not too many bolt-ons around.
Anyway looks good and I hope more people will start appreciating this build.. or at least showing appreciation with some posts!

[svairman]

My bad not triple post.
It must be nice to have the ability to fabricate some of your parts like the fan shroud.
Especially for a car this old, not too many bolt-ons around.
Anyway looks good and I hope more people will start appreciating this build.. or at least showing appreciation with some posts!

not many parts available? I thought classic Z's had a decent amount of support parts and were gaining even more as they age and become more desirable and rare.

[gmac708]

I understand what S13AL meant about having to fab up what I cannot find, and it is more fun to work on as well.

UPDATE


I cut the center hole using a nibbler. The hole fits the shrouded "s" blades perfect.



I riveted in floating nut plates to secure the fan. Beats using zip ties.



I used nut plates on the top shroud. The only real purpose of this shroud is to give it a clean look and have a flat spot to set my beer.



Everything back in for a test run. The fan is a Flex-a-lite model FLX-398. Pulls hard and is really quiet. They recommended 40AMP fuse.



I'll pull it back out and run a bead of sealant around the outside. It will get some foam rubber sealing on the front to seal up against the forward bulkhead.



That's it for now...

Overflow tank and breather/catch-can next.


Gordon

[e.gentle]

sweet build up!!!! you still got the surfboard rack? if so pm me. i wanna buy it. if youll sell it.

[dinger240]

awsome build Keep up the good work!

[gmac708]

A quick update.

I have been busy this weekend but I did find time to work on Betzy.

I fabricated a water overflow can out of .093 aluminum sheeting. I'm going to get it welded together. We'll see how it turns out before I start on the oil breather catch can.
Behind hot pipe seems about the perfect place to put it.



It's is being held in place and together with tape right now.



Off to Defined Auto for Pete to weld up this week.

Gord