how to i poke the wires tho? not like that, but like when i poke them nothing lights up, but thats because they are insulated with the color thing

yep, and thats why the end of your test light should be sharp.. to stab through the seathing on it.. dont worry you wont hurt anything.. just becarful.. because it really f'in hurts to poke your finger with those things

hes sixteen man... and yeah hes askin question in probably the most dangerous place to do so.... but most of us had someone there to help us local... he might not.. or they may not be available to help...

i know its over played but we were all newbs once

Chill man, not everybody is born knowing everything. Ive never really needed to know stuff about electricity till now, so im learning everything at once, from knowing not sh*t. Theres not really anywhere i can do research on air mix doors not working

im reading the FSM but theres still things that are a little unclear for both me and me dad, but im trying

how would asking questions about this get other people banned?

the assembly doesnt seem possible to pull unless i take out the dash, which i definatley do NOT wanna do

and dont get mad, but idk how i can see if theres broken connectors or dead switches

the one i have is like a flat head screwdriver at the tip, so id have to use wiere stripper to get beyond the insulation (as far as i know), and i dont wanna do that on every single wire

wierd tho... never knew it was supposed to stab through

edit: just checked again, its a different one thats a flat head, this ones pretty damn pointy, so ill have to check this later on tonight when i get home

also, before i waste too much time, i have the FSM saved on my computer, but i really dont understand how to read the wiring diagrams. What is it im looking for?

Quote, originally posted by SketchyRollin564 »

but i really dont understand how to read the wiring diagrams

confuses the hell outta me too.. if i had more time i would try to help you more. but i just started a new job. sorry dude

itd be easyer to move it around if i could get the black plugs out. ive gotten em out before a couple times, but for some reason, they do not want to come off this time, i tryed a coupe days ago, and spent like 10 fcking minutes yesterday, and neither of them will come off

idk god really doesnt want me to fix this

i hate to say it man but if you dont want to be digging through the dash, maybe its time to vist it the dealership...it would be a different story if i was closer... but i am kinda on the other side of the country

i really wish it had it though

and yeah, i know you gotta undo the tabs, but as far as i push em in, and as hard as i try to pull it out, this thing is being a little biiitch

ive done it before so its not like i dont know how to do it.. but im about ready to melt the plastic off with a lighter

1992 Nissan 240sx Hachback - Project (rb25det)
1990 Nissan 240sx Hatchback SE - DD

need misc s14/s13 5 speed stuff ?
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...n-abs

but im gonna try again to pull that gay *** harness to the switches out and see what i can figure out based on what devilstar is saying

and....

Quote, originally posted by PorkchopExpress »

Send me a email and I will give you my number. Put on some fishnets clear boots and have icecream in hand.

I have a multimeter i borrowed from my dad, so i can use that. What i dont understand is a lot of the vocab or terminolagy or whatever you wanna call it

Its saying Do aproximatley 12 volts exist between air mix door motor harness terminal No. (a + with a circle around it) and body ground?

I have no clue what "No. +" means '

Im guessing by the diagram its the little box on the bottom row, second from left?

And, im gonna take a wild guess that im gonna hold down the negative prob to a ground somewhere?

Whats preventing me from trying a lot of this is just not knowing what some of this stuff means.

If my guesses are right tho, ill go ahead and try that lol.... am i right?

Yeah i wanted to do that, but there gonna charge me wayyy too much money for it, and i dont have that. and...

what pride? lmao

i wanna fix it because i dont have enough money to pay sombody else to do it, and i guess this would be a good way to teach me basicis of electrical stuff for my car, cause eventually more problems are gonna happen, and itd be great to have a clue what to do on the next ones

everyones gotta start somewhere right?

part of this is because some ATS security chip thing was installed by the previous owner, and a lot of the wire clutter is located right where the harness for the air mix door would probably be

alot of **** is ziptied together and its really hard to see whats what

theres a pic of mine, anybody know where it is? i was guessing it was the thing on the bottom, but it doesnt look like i can take that out, and i cant see any tabs, which always seem to be on every freaking part on this car

second thought... pay a neighbor kid an otter pop to sit in your pass. seat and push the vent control buttons on the dash... see if the arm highlighted in red moves... then try moving the one highlighted in yellow... they may just need to be reconnected

I can push buttons all day long with the harness(it's a dark brown plug) connected. Occasionally the tan lever moves. When I took the motor off after just a minute of operation it was screaming hot. This should not be! I have located four of these motors and will be picking up one for mine on Tuesday. Take yours off and test it like I did. Reattach the plug after taking it off and run it through each button. I KNOW my linkage is all ok because you can move it up manually by pushing on the chrome colored part of the linkage. The forward part of the dash is the most upward position the linkage goes to so as the motor weakens it just doesn't push far enough to get the linkage to that position. My linkage in the "defrost " position..

My linkage in the "face" position

Blend motor plug

The dangling rod swings up and to the right towards front of dash..it's the one that was attached to the tan lever and motor...

I would remove the motor first then manually move the levers to completely eliminate the linkage as a problem. Mine will definitely require a motor. Be glad to pick up a motor for you Tuesday if you discover it's the motor.

Modified by 2ndnissan at 4:50 PM 6/1/2008

Modified by 2ndnissan at 4:58 PM 6/1/2008

its so confusing

alright sweet, keep me updated, and thanks

S13 might be a bit different (the motor and linkage systems sure look way different)

still gotta find time to go in there and fumble through all the wire clutter and unplug the harness, test the voltage while im at that, and if the voltage is fine, then find out a way to take out the motor and asssembly

edit: yeah, just looked inthere, and it seems impossible to take out with the dash still in-tact, because the motor is connected to soo many different things

i guess i could start unscrewing joints of the linkage, but that totaly kills being able to check for a linkage issue, and plus im not sure i would remember how to put everything back together if i start going this far

how did you get your motor out?

Oh yeah..I tore my motor apart. Tiny electric motor with a shaft on it that has a gear. That turns a series of plastic gears. That in turn moves the lever . Would be possible that gears stripped and caused the inconsistent operation.

Update: I changed my motor today and everything is fine. Sketchy..it's the motor...Bite the bullet. it took me a total of 45 minutes to do this and that included taking the motor off the parts car.

Modified by 2ndnissan at 11:52 AM 6/3/2008

THE ACTUATOR THAT I SEE VERY CLEARLY IN THE PICTURE IS REMOVED BY TWO SCREWS AND REMOVE THE ONE LINKAGE ATTACHED TO THE ACTUATOR. THEN GET A NEW ONE AND PUT IT BACK...PROBLEM SOLVED.

How much is a new motor at the dealership? or is that not where to get it

the thing will move SOMTIMES only when the engine is on

i got it to do it today (and i put my interior back together too), and i just left i like that, so now its at my face and my feet

and so when i dont want it at my face i guess i just point it away

so ill be fine for now, but i still wanna get a new motor so i can defrost when i need to and stuff. where do you get em?

how much would it be new? id rather not get a used one, just to have the same problem happen again in a year or two