so this thingy seem to broke... help please (56k get your *** in here)

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SketchyRollin564
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sebazztard wrote:k, on page 52, it says to unplug the harness going to the door unit and test the points. this is unfortunatly using a multimeter. the first test is to see if you have around 12 v on the first lead. you "may" get away with just using your test lamp on this. if you have power, or if your lamp lights up, then go to step 2, if it doesnt light up check your 7.5 amp fuse on the fuse block. step 2, check the other pin on the same harness for continuity. then we check the push button harness (hvac, heat/ac, etc). unplug that hanress, and test the points indicated in the pic. if we dont have continuity , we have a prob with the harness or the connector. if we do have continuity...go on to next page and this is where i stop spoon feeding, and i hope you catch on by now! lol. its not too difficult, just gotta understand what your reading.
I have a multimeter i borrowed from my dad, so i can use that. What i dont understand is a lot of the vocab or terminolagy or whatever you wanna call it

Its saying Do aproximatley 12 volts exist between air mix door motor harness terminal No. (a + with a circle around it) and body ground?

I have no clue what "No. +" means '

Im guessing by the diagram its the little box on the bottom row, second from left?

And, im gonna take a wild guess that im gonna hold down the negative prob to a ground somewhere?

Whats preventing me from trying a lot of this is just not knowing what some of this stuff means.

If my guesses are right tho, ill go ahead and try that lol.... am i right?


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SketchyRollin564
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blacksrjdm wrote:Dude, put the car back together, take the car to the local Nissan dealer. and pay a qualified technician to fix it. This thread should not be 5 pages long. I understand U want to do it yourself, but, U simply do not have a clue where to start here. Take a step back, swallow your pride, and take it to a dealer.
Yeah i wanted to do that, but there gonna charge me wayyy too much money for it, and i dont have that. and...

what pride? lmao

i wanna fix it because i dont have enough money to pay sombody else to do it, and i guess this would be a good way to teach me basicis of electrical stuff for my car, cause eventually more problems are gonna happen, and itd be great to have a clue what to do on the next ones

everyones gotta start somewhere right?

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SketchyRollin564
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Ok this is gonna sound really fcking dumb, but which harness connects to the air mix door motor? i cant really see any harnesses

part of this is because some ATS security chip thing was installed by the previous owner, and a lot of the wire clutter is located right where the harness for the air mix door would probably be

alot of **** is ziptied together and its really hard to see whats what

theres a pic of mine, anybody know where it is? i was guessing it was the thing on the bottom, but it doesnt look like i can take that out, and i cant see any tabs, which always seem to be on every freaking part on this car

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Devilstar
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man it just hit me.. that pic you have, is of the arm that makes the door move i belive.. and it looks like its off track... that might be the cause of the problem... you are going to have to put you man pants on and take this dash apart to fix it most likely

second thought... pay a neighbor kid an otter pop to sit in your pass. seat and push the vent control buttons on the dash... see if the arm highlighted in red moves... then try moving the one highlighted in yellow... they may just need to be reconnected


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SketchyRollin564
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Nah its connected, cause it DID move again when i got a new battery. Also, when my dad was pressing the button to make it move, i was looking down there and couldnt see that arm moving.. it was really wierd

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Devilstar
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okay so to answer your orignal question about this picture:


2ndnissan
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Stiill haven't gotten this fixed?...ok...I got the same problem apparently and a different HVAC unit didn't fix the problem so it's not in the switch. The blend motor is completely able to be taken out and changed without taking apart the dash. You need a phillips screw driver and a stubby phillips screwdriver. After taking the bolts off,you CAREFULLY twist motor off of the rod that is attached to the tan colored lever that is attached to the motor.

I can push buttons all day long with the harness(it's a dark brown plug) connected. Occasionally the tan lever moves. When I took the motor off after just a minute of operation it was screaming hot. This should not be! I have located four of these motors and will be picking up one for mine on Tuesday. Take yours off and test it like I did. Reattach the plug after taking it off and run it through each button. I KNOW my linkage is all ok because you can move it up manually by pushing on the chrome colored part of the linkage. The forward part of the dash is the most upward position the linkage goes to so as the motor weakens it just doesn't push far enough to get the linkage to that position. My linkage in the "defrost " position..

My linkage in the "face" position

Blend motor plug

The dangling rod swings up and to the right towards front of dash..it's the one that was attached to the tan lever and motor...

I would remove the motor first then manually move the levers to completely eliminate the linkage as a problem. Mine will definitely require a motor. Be glad to pick up a motor for you Tuesday if you discover it's the motor.

Modified by 2ndnissan at 4:50 PM 6/1/2008
Modified by 2ndnissan at 4:58 PM 6/1/2008

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SketchyRollin564
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yeah i still dont know if its the motor, cause somtimes itl work and somtimes it wont (for the face atleast), but it ALWAYS works for the feet and defrost, so im guesing its probably not the motor

its so confusing

2ndnissan
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You'll get defrost and feet pretty much by default..it's the lowest position. If the motor works AT ALL you get those. The face position causes the motor to push linkage farther and the motor has to work harder. That's why the case on my motor got so hot. I'll let you know how changing the motor affects mine 'cause I had exactly the same symptoms.

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SketchyRollin564
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Ahh, i guess that makes sense then

alright sweet, keep me updated, and thanks

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blacksrjdm
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I think u oughta start by changing the actuator, very common on these. The part # u need is back a few pages...air/mix actuator/motor.

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SketchyRollin564
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Alright i wanna try to take the motor out and check the linkage like you did, but i dont see how i can do this on the S14 without taking apart the dash.

S13 might be a bit different (the motor and linkage systems sure look way different)

still gotta find time to go in there and fumble through all the wire clutter and unplug the harness, test the voltage while im at that, and if the voltage is fine, then find out a way to take out the motor and asssembly

edit: yeah, just looked inthere, and it seems impossible to take out with the dash still in-tact, because the motor is connected to soo many different things

i guess i could start unscrewing joints of the linkage, but that totaly kills being able to check for a linkage issue, and plus im not sure i would remember how to put everything back together if i start going this far

how did you get your motor out?

2ndnissan
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The motor is just connected to the one rod. Rest of the linkage should just stay in place. The tan lever doesn't come off of the motor(riveted on in my case). There's nothing inside the case to pull out as motor is attached with three screws to the side. Let me know how it goes..

Oh yeah..I tore my motor apart. Tiny electric motor with a shaft on it that has a gear. That turns a series of plastic gears. That in turn moves the lever . Would be possible that gears stripped and caused the inconsistent operation.

Update: I changed my motor today and everything is fine. Sketchy..it's the motor...Bite the bullet. it took me a total of 45 minutes to do this and that included taking the motor off the parts car.
Modified by 2ndnissan at 11:52 AM 6/3/2008

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blacksrjdm
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That is the exact reason, the linkage is fine, I can tell by the pics. REMOVE THE MOTOR AND REPLACE...I WORK AT A NISSAN DEALER AND HAVE BEEN TELLING U TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE MOTOR FOR A WEEK NOW. I ALSO HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM. CHANGED THE ACTUATOR, AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE. I KNOW U WANNA LEARN BUT WHEN SOMEONE IS TELLING U EXACTLY WHAT THE PROBLEM IS AND U KEEP LOOKING ELSEWHERE. THATS JUST NOT LEARNING THAT IS JUST PLAIN STUPID.

THE ACTUATOR THAT I SEE VERY CLEARLY IN THE PICTURE IS REMOVED BY TWO SCREWS AND REMOVE THE ONE LINKAGE ATTACHED TO THE ACTUATOR. THEN GET A NEW ONE AND PUT IT BACK...PROBLEM SOLVED.

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SketchyRollin564
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lol chill with the caps, so i take it since now all im doing is replacing the motor i can put the rest of my interior back together? or is it gonna be easyer with the center stuff still out? im guessing i can put it back together

How much is a new motor at the dealership? or is that not where to get it

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SketchyRollin564
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anyone?

the thing will move SOMTIMES only when the engine is on

i got it to do it today (and i put my interior back together too), and i just left i like that, so now its at my face and my feet

and so when i dont want it at my face i guess i just point it away

so ill be fine for now, but i still wanna get a new motor so i can defrost when i need to and stuff. where do you get em?

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Devilstar
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man the dealership would be my guess.. just call your local one.. or you might get lucky and an autpoarts store might be able to get one, doubt anywhere will have it in stock though.. or go raid a junk yard...

2ndnissan
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Auto parts places won't have it. Most don't go that far into a/c=heating. You'll have to go to dealer or go used. Like I said before,I know of 3 of these I could get..all for $10 or less. Would send it for cost plus shipping and test it on my harness first. Shippin wouldn't be much since I'm in central Florida area too..

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SketchyRollin564
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That would be sweet, but are they for the s14 or the s13, because im pretty sure the motor is different if the linkage and everything else is different too

how much would it be new? id rather not get a used one, just to have the same problem happen again in a year or two

2ndnissan
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I don't see any difference between my motor and yours in pics. I don't have a parts book though so check with the dealer. For an electrical part from a dealer,I'd expect at least $50 dollars.

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SketchyRollin564
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how much is it new online

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Kckouki
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$298384882 dollers.

ls14turbo
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some pic are not working

laxands13
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How did you even find this...? this thread is over 5 years old. I am legitimately impressed.

ls14turbo
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laxands13 wrote:How did you even find this...? this thread is over 5 years old. I am legitimately impressed.

:) :) :) :) :) :) SEARCH

ls14turbo
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SketchyRollin564 wrote:Ok so....

heres my resized pic of motomans unit (and dude... try to resize the pics you post lol, ill do it for you)

And heres mine



notifce how the thing circled appears to be different? Either somthings not connected and part of it fell down hanging off somthing, or its supposed to be like that when the door is in the closed position... anybody got anything? lol

heres another pic if it helps

and for poops in giggles... heres my little work area (anyone know how i can get rid of that fresh scratch i made? )

So anyone know anything or have any suggestions about that thing being disconnected or whatever? Also, yeah the motor doesnt do anything when i hit the buttons, so im guessing the motor is just dead?

Any ways i could give it a little push, or jump start it again?

Looks like im almost done (i hope) and i dont have to take out the dash or take it to a dealer!


bi-level door motor


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