and for the lower tranny harness, do i need to go buy a manual one, or does my car already have one that i have to do some modifying to? hmm

You mean the rubber one? It's $7.38 from Courtesy.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/b....html

I have an extra in perfect condition. I can do $6 shipped for you.

idk other people, but wiring was the easiest part for me. Ignore brown/yellow wire in the picture. That's for the convertible top. You can find more info in here.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/329284
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/77784

2 of them are longer than other 4. Either 11 & 5 o'clock or 1 and 7 o'clock ones are longer. They are 11 or 12mm metric bolts. Well, just get them from dealership and be done with it.

there are detailed wiring guides for the s14 ..but not the s13 .. :S

and also, i decided not to buy they m/t bellhousing bolts on ebay, but i found out the thread size which is M10 X 1.5 thread/pitch, so i got that down so i don't have to worry about stripping the engine, also the nuts and washers i need to get, would i be able to use the same ones off my a/t?? or should i get new nuts / washers?... it would be easiest if i could just use my a/t nuts / washers.. but let me know!

thanks

all together to order the bolts and washer and nuts i was charged $34.14

Ill take you up on that offer for 6 shipped.
Email me at lilsoccerboy21@aol.com

thats weird i thought the 70mm bolt was discontinued.. hmm

Email sent!!!
It's in perfect condition BTW. No tears or damage.

Trust me. It's been discontinued. Later dealership will tell him 'Sorry, it's NLA(No Longer Available).' I got mine from ACE hardware store.

"how similar is the wiring between the s13 and s14?

there are detailed wiring guides for the s14 ..but not the s13 .. :S

and also, i decided not to buy they m/t bellhousing bolts on ebay, but i found out the thread size which is M10 X 1.5 thread/pitch, so i got that down so i don't have to worry about stripping the engine, also the nuts and washers i need to get, would i be able to use the same ones off my a/t?? or should i get new nuts / washers?... it would be easiest if i could just use my a/t nuts / washers.. but let me know!

are the nuts are the hardware store not hard enough to support? so should i just go to the dealership? or could i survive with hardware store bolts?

thanks"

Yup you are right. Damn i was hoping that you werent. They told me it was cancelled. lol i was pissed cuz now i gotta go to a hardware store.

Okinawa are you done with the swap yet?

im starting mine in about a week or 2. If i finish before you im gunna have to send u a bag of popcorn lol

wiring is gonna stump me.. i don't even know what jump means .. haha

JUMP!!!!!

jump! ahh thats what it means.. 94.. your a life save man.. haha

also.. should i buy a new soft line? or do you think RTV gasket maker can seal this right up?

anyways, i just took the wiring for the transmission out with everything, i didn't want to cut something that wasn't supposed to be cut, what exactly can i cut? haha

engine is finally out! got my cherry picker yesterday

which one do you guys think would be best to use on the firewall?

Quote, originally posted by okinawa drift »

also which one do you guys think would be best to use on the firewall?

"any motor that revs over 6k just isnt safe"...lmfao

Silver. Make sure to punch in the exact center.

Your care looks very clean. Please do something with painted coolant and washer fluid tanks.

discovered some rust under the fuel rail, not to sure how to deal with rust.. should i just buy some naval jelly and let it sit on this over night? then sand it with 80grit sandpaper in the morning, then primer it, paint it, clear coat it?

i want to deal with it before it becomes worse..

also drilled the holes for my mc and clutch pedal today, turned out a lot better than i thought, i was kind of hard since the drill i was using was kind of big so i had to drill the mc hole and the upper hole at an angle kind of, but it all worked out

and... do i even need this thing? its where the clutch pedal mounts up too..

FS: Xenon lip pre-cut for front mount, with Canadian DTRL's and JDM Side Marker
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...marke

If you remove it, you can't take the key out from the cylinder. Funny thing is I removed mine, and I was able to take the key out. Hijacker worked on 2-3 different 240s, and he said keys won't come out without it on all of them. It's weird that mine works without it. I'm going to put it back on just to be safe. Mine is in green color BTW.

Its technically called a flare nut wrench. Auto Zoo, Advanced Asinine Parts, or Prick Boys will sell a kit for under $10.

I'm an @$$h0l3 and I approve this message.

also do you think kyrlon rust tough enamel primer would be good to spay on the rust under my fuel rail in the engine bay after i sand it with 180 grit?? then spary some dupli-color cherry red pearl, then clear coat?

im a noob at this **** so... how do it sound guys? haha

clutch hardlines are 10mm....as far as the rust goes, it seems to be only surface rust, right? if that is the case, do as you stated above. i have heard many people express their dislike of spray-on primer though. they all seem to prefer brush or roll on etching primer- for whatever that is worth. if it is worse than the photo appears, a rust converter product could be an option. sorry, don't have personal experience with the krylon product, so i can't comment.

kevin

also

i am having trouble finding some GL-4 for my transmission

is it GL-4 or GL-5 i use?

the other day i went to autozone to look for some redline mt-90 and they didn't have it .. walmart didn't have it either..hmmmmmm