5 speed swap in progress!

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
94_240sx
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okinawa drift wrote:im most likely going to get a rear main oil seal for sure.. but thats probably the only seal im going to replace, since im on a tight budget
Do the transmission front and rear seals. They are like $4-5 each and easy to do. Rear one is okay, but if front one goes bad, you have to pull the transmission again.


a_ahmed
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94_240sx wrote:
No, it's just a pedal. Whole assembly is over $100. Try to get OEM hardline because you can't beat OEM hardline fitment. Make sure to get a bracket that goes between softline and hardline. You can buy Agency power stainless steel line, but I don't think the feel is as good as OEM hardline.
Where can I get the OEM hard line (I dont need the damper thing)... I have aa clutch earls ss line from frsport already just need hardline

And for the clutch pedal assembly i need the whole thing OEM is expensive i reckon huh...

94_240sx
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a_ahmed wrote:Where can I get the OEM hard line (I dont need the damper thing)... I have aa clutch earls ss line from frsport already just need hardlineAnd for the clutch pedal assembly i need the whole thing OEM is expensive i reckon huh...
Hardline is pretty cheap from dealership like under $20. Problem is it's been discontinued. s14 one is still available, but they are not the same. You need to make a trip to some junkyards. That's where I got all of mine.


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Danrc30
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okinawa drift wrote:
I just opened this thread and saw this pic. I haven't read further so if someone already addressed this, I apologize.

THIS IS NOT A SAFE WAY TO WORK UNDER A CAR! A local kid from my high school died when he used 4 jackstands to lift his car. This is extremely dangerous. I did a 5 speed swap too, and I used 4 wheel ramps to raise the car instead of jackstands. It's MUCH safer to use wheel ramps.

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srpowered240sx
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Danrc30 wrote:
I just opened this thread and saw this pic. I haven't read further so if someone already addressed this, I apologize.

THIS IS NOT A SAFE WAY TO WORK UNDER A CAR! A local kid from my high school died when he used 4 jackstands to lift his car. This is extremely dangerous. I did a 5 speed swap too, and I used 4 wheel ramps to raise the car instead of jackstands. It's MUCH safer to use wheel ramps.
care to explain why....ive always worked on my car like this. i also always try to shake the car off the stands before getting under it. jackstands are made to hold a car up...or did i miss something.

94_240sx
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srpowered240sx wrote:
care to explain why....ive always worked on my car like this. i also always try to shake the car off the stands before getting under it. jackstands are made to hold a car up...or did i miss something.
It's still a good idea to slide something under the car just in case like wheels and stuff. You might get hurt something goes wrong, but at least you won't die.

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Danrc30
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srpowered240sx wrote:
care to explain why....ive always worked on my car like this. i also always try to shake the car off the stands before getting under it. jackstands are made to hold a car up...or did i miss something.
I'll do my best.

Jack stands are not designed to hold an entire car up even thought they technically can. Some people say that it's like using a lift in a garage. Well, it's not. The lifting points on a lift are connected and not pivoting anywhere. They lift straight up and are not required to "balance" the car. Using 4 jack stands is similar to building a house of cards. If one goes, they all go. All it takes is one to slip or give out and the car will come crashing down. At least with wheel ramps, the car won't crash down if the wheels are properly "chocked". I've also never seen a wheel ramp tip over while the car was completely and safely positioned on the ramps.

Now I'm not saying that if you use 4 stands it's automatically going to happen, but I am saying it's not safe and I don't want to hear about a fellow 240 owner, as well as any car owner for that matter, getting crushed under their car. The kid that died was doing this so I know it can happen. I wasn't there when it happened, but I was in school when the word came in. It wasn't a good day at school let's say.

So please guys/gals... invest in 4 wheel ramps and be safe! I'm actually tired of working on my back. I'm investing in an electric lift. That's the best way to go if you can. $1500 is well woth your life!

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RCA
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+1 for the lift-10 for the price.

My car has been on four jackstands without tires since Febuary. Its still up there. I probably did structual damage to my cars frame... oh well

RESURFACEING YOUR FLYWHEEL ISNT OPTIONAL... ITS MANDITORY!You spent all this time and money allready... Do it right and do it once. Clutches arent cheap and it would suck to have one not really work as well as it should. Then burn out quickly and then you have to replace it and resurface your flywheel any way.

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Danrc30
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rcabrita wrote:+1 for the lift-10 for the price.

My car has been on four jackstands without tires since Febuary. Its still up there. I probably did structual damage to my cars frame... oh well
No doubt there are more people that have never had a problem than people that did have a problem... I'm just saying it's dangerous. Do what you will with it.

As far as the price goes, my life is worth more than $1500, so I'm getting a lift. It's kinda like the guys that buy a new motorcycle and buy a cheap helmet with no leathers because they can't afford it... I say buy a cheaper cycle and use that $$$ to buy a good helmet and leathers.

a_ahmed
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What lift are you guys talking about for 1500$??

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srpowered240sx
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Danrc30 wrote:
I'll do my best.

Jack stands are not designed to hold an entire car up even thought they technically can. Some people say that it's like using a lift in a garage. Well, it's not. The lifting points on a lift are connected and not pivoting anywhere. They lift straight up and are not required to "balance" the car. Using 4 jack stands is similar to building a house of cards. If one goes, they all go. All it takes is one to slip or give out and the car will come crashing down. At least with wheel ramps, the car won't crash down if the wheels are properly "chocked". I've also never seen a wheel ramp tip over while the car was completely and safely positioned on the ramps.

Now I'm not saying that if you use 4 stands it's automatically going to happen, but I am saying it's not safe and I don't want to hear about a fellow 240 owner, as well as any car owner for that matter, getting crushed under their car. The kid that died was doing this so I know it can happen. I wasn't there when it happened, but I was in school when the word came in. It wasn't a good day at school let's say.

So please guys/gals... invest in 4 wheel ramps and be safe! I'm actually tired of working on my back. I'm investing in an electric lift. That's the best way to go if you can. $1500 is well woth your life!
i kind of see your point, but have been doing this for years, and never seen a set of jack stands set up properly fail. jack stands do not "pivot" or "balance" the car. they keep the car in the air, and are positioned on the most solid part of the car, and can not slip off if positioned correctly. i see where your coming from hearing about a classmate getting crushed, but my bet is it was not set up right.

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Danrc30
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a_ahmed wrote:What lift are you guys talking about for 1500$??
Just google "automotive lifts bud... first one that comes up without any research. I've seen them even cheaper... http://www.americanautomotivee...SeLoA
srpowered240sx wrote:
i kind of see your point, but have been doing this for years, and never seen a set of jack stands set up properly fail. jack stands do not "pivot" or "balance" the car. they keep the car in the air, and are positioned on the most solid part of the car, and can not slip off if positioned correctly. i see where your coming from hearing about a classmate getting crushed, but my bet is it was not set up right.
Understood. But why chance it when you can use wheel ramps to do this swap, which are much safer? They actually do balance the car somewhat. As soon as a load is applied to the four jack stands, there will be some sort of horizonal force on the stands. Even though it may be minimal, it will exist. This causes the balancing act and possible instability when dealing with 4 jacks.

ken240sx
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wheel ramps in the rear with the e-brake on and jack stand in front for me.

a_ahmed
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WOW! That **** is cheap and worth it! I thought that kind of stuff cost like 5-25k... thats amazing!

94_240sx
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ken240sx wrote:wheel ramps in the rear with the e-brake on and jack stand in front for me.
I slide wheels, scissor jacks and floor jack on top of jack stands just in case. Danrc30 has a good point. When you take the transmission out and install it, you will have to wiggle it. If a couple of guys do that together, who knows? Resurface the flywheel. Clutch is expensive, but you don't want to do it twice. Just do it once and do it right.

BMAR240SX
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[QUOTE=Danrc30] http://www.americanautomotivee...SeLoA

/QUOTE] I dream to have one of these

don_bagz
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so lucky you found all the parts for your 5 speed swap. Wish to find mine too.. hopefully

BMAR240SX
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My question is tho, don't floor jack stands go higher then the ramp's?

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Danrc30
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BMAR240SX wrote:My question is tho, don't floor jack stands go higher then the ramp's?
Some do. That's why I put a few 2x6's under my ramps for the extra height...

GIJOE69
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dang man you still doing your 5spd swap?

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okinawa drift
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haha yeah man, i've been low on money, and im waiting on parts to arrive and im still scavanging tools.. haha i need a cherry picker..

i bought a $25 torque wrench at walmart .. do you guys think this will get the job done?

and about the 4 jacks.. this scares the **** out of me.. haha i think i will look for some ramps.. thanks for that info

also i'm thinking about re-painting the transmission.. what kind of primer should i use on it?

also does anyone know the size of the m/t bell housing bolts? i can't find the size in the FSM
Modified by okinawa drift at 12:11 AM 5/13/2008

GIJOE69
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why do you need a cherry picker? all I used for tools on my S14 was four 3 ton jack stands and a 14mm 6pt craftsman wrench for the driveshaft bolts and a cheap harbor freight pilot bushing puller and bunch of 3/8's 10, 12, 14, 17, and a big ratchet breaker bar to hold the crankshaft pulley bolt so it don't move when installing flywheel and removing. and a jackstand on the oilpan with a wooden block to hold it................and don't use a torque wrench on the pressure plate bolts or you will break a bolt........it took me awhile to get parts from courtesyparts.com i went that route to save money but takes 4 ever to get...I ordered bunch of transmission bolts and seals such as Rear Engine Seal, transmission front seal & gasket and rear seal and dust cover....

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just order the MT transmission bolts & starter bolts from nissan....

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okinawa drift
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aren't you supposed to use a torque wrench for the pressure plate? or do you just hand tighten it?

and i need a cherry picker to get the old blown out engine + auto transmission out of the car

94_240sx
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okinawa drift wrote:also i'm thinking about re-painting the transmission.. what kind of primer should i use on it?

also does anyone know the size of the m/t bell housing bolts? i can't find the size in the FSM

Modified by okinawa drift at 12:11 AM 5/13/2008
Just clean up and use high temp aluminum spray paint just like sillbeer did.

The longest one is not available from Nissan. All the info you need is in FSM.

You need to use torque wrench everywhere.

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okinawa drift
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sweet! alright thanks man

hmm should i remove all the sensors before scrubbing the transmission with some degreaser? or you think they will be fine? also if i was to replace the transmission front seal would i have to buy a new gasket that goes there?

GIJOE69
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yes, if you open the transmission front seal cover you gotta replace the gasket then the seal and also should change out the pin ball (pivot ball)

GIJOE69
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and also for the seals make sure you put RTV between the seal, i forgot to put RTV like what nissan recommends, I totally forgot and I smell transmission oil at higher speeds and I noticed that it is leaking a little so when I go flush my transmission I will add RTV....

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okinawa drift
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ahh i actually might not replace my front transmission seal then, i'll replace the rear transmission seal for sure, i haven't heard of much cases of transmission fluid leaking from the front... or am i wrong? im just on a low budget

and when you say put RTV between the seal.. you mean like... put some rtv where the seal goes and put the seal in?

also i cleaned the **** out of my transmission today, took about 3 hours..lol

when i put the transmission on should i tape this up with electrical tape?

does anyone know where the plastic peice on the ground goes??

what goes throught this loop?

i sprayed some water in here to get some of the dirty out.. bad idea??

results



i don't think im gonna paint it, will be to much of a pain in the ***
Modified by okinawa drift at 10:14 PM 5/13/2008

94_240sx
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Haha... That's funny cuz I also spent exactly 3 hours to clean it up. I used a tooth brush and degreaser to clean it. No, you don't have to paint it. If you do, it'll smell bad for a while.

You don't have to use RTV. Just put some grease on and hammer the seals in gently. I did all my seals that way and no leaks whatsoever.

What sensor is that? I only hooked up reverse sensor, so don't bother with it if it's not a reverse sensor.

I don't see a breather hose. Loops will hold wires and breather hose. Maybe s13 transmission doesn't have one?

Yup, it's not a good idea to spray water there. You should have disassembled it and used a rag to remove dirt. Make sure to drain all the water and old fluid before installation.

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