judging by the relation to the clutch withdrawal lever that is the reverse sensor....plastic piece fits over the rubber cap on the sensor. if you look past the goo on my trans you can see it below. sorry, i haven't put in my 3 hours yet

the retainer loop is used to hold the breather hose in place

also i don't know much about oil, but what kind of oil should i use for my 163k ka24e? .. i was told moblie 1 would be "too good" causing all the old oil to drop to the bottom of the oil pan, then clogging my oil pump.. sooo.. hmm what kind of oil you guys reccomend?

and also .. what kind of transmission fluid?

haha, well i've decided to just replace the rear main seal, and the pilot bushing, my grandpa was telling me that it would be best to just leave the old pilot bushing in, because installing a new one will be a pain in the ***, and i could do it wrong when i hammer it in.. this true?

Something on the heavier side. Like 5w-40???

Quote »

and also .. what kind of transmission fluid?

Redline MT-90

Quote »

haha, well i've decided to just replace the rear main seal, and the pilot bushing, my grandpa was telling me that it would be best to just leave the old pilot bushing in, because installing a new one will be a pain in the ***, and i could do it wrong when i hammer it in.. this true?

You must take the auto pilot bushing out and hammer in manual pilot bushing it.

well, the sohc im swapping in was from a manual so it already has a manual pilot bushing in it, but the thing is i have a new pilot bushing, would it make a big difference to replace it?

Quote, originally posted by verSat1l3 »

It costs a little more but I would fill it with Redline or Royal Purple gear oil. Make sure whatever you use is GL-4 compliant. The Advance Auto gear oil is GL-5 which some say has sulfites that eat yellow metals (your synchros). I used it once on a trans on its way out, and I think it accelerated the process... Who knows, its just better to be safe.

no personal experience with this, but as he says 'better to be safe'. input on this anyone?

kevin

Also, Diggles: I saw your request for the junkyard info. I'll give it to you soon. No offense buddy but we both have 96's and I searched and found it. I've got all my parts and won't need to use theirs unless something catastrophic happens. You got first dibs on the info once I'm up and running in a couple weeks.

I'm an @$$h0l3 and I approve this message.

kevin

and if im reading this right, are you guys recommending i use oil as transmission fluid?

also, if i were to go to a hardware store do you think they would be able to find out the bolts / washers i need if i brought my FSM with me? i know what page its on but im not really sure what "N * M" means

Gear oil, synrchomesh fluid, whatever, but NOT MOTOR OIL!! There are GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils, get GL-4. 2.4-2.5 liters worth through the shift column when the trans is in the car.

N * M? Newton meters? Thats torque values for the metrically superior. May as well be Latin... You are looking for sizes along the lines of m8x1.0, m10x1.25, etc. Which bolts do you need?

do i need any washers or nuts to go along with them? or can i just re-use my washers from my a/t?

also my parts came in today!

Modified by okinawa drift at 1:48 AM 5/17/2008

in these terms

Engine / Bellhousing Bolts

Bolts = 08131-0601A / 60mm length / 4 needed

Washers = 08915-2401A / 4 needed

Bolt = 08131-0701A / 70mm length / 1 needed

Washer = 08915-2401A

Bolts = 08124-0301F / 35mm / 2 needed

Nuts = 08911-2401A / 2 needed

Bolt = 08124-0601F / 65mm / 1 needed

Nut = 09811-2401A / 1 needed

Bolt = 08071-0251A / 25mm / 1 needed

Starter Bolts = 01121-03751 / 95mm / 2 needed

as for the nuts, does my a/t have those already? or should i purchase those too?

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=284011

I just corrected my clutch and bolted the trans to the motor plus mounted the master cylinder and pedal this afternoon. The last of my sensors come in tomorrow and I just gotta throw my motor and trans back in the car and wire it up. happy now...

Listen to this guy. Buy from the selelr askme4parts. This part number is wrong.

Nut = 09811-2401A / 1 needed --> 08911-2401A

I bought all the bolts and nuts from the dealership and the longest bolt from ACE hardware since it was no longer available, but thiking back I should have gotten Kai Project bolts and nuts from askme4parts. I found out he sells them after the swap.

also.. it turns out the clutch kit i have is wrong... and i traded my rc car for this clutch kit from a guy from portland, so i second hand bought it i guess you could say..

i could of swore the guy said it was for a sohc.... but it turns out the t/o bearing is to big, it wont slide onto the t/o bearing holder... where the last t/o bearing was...

is anyone good at distinguishing if i have a s13 clutch kit, MC, and SC?

i can take pics if anyone is good at that

Throw out bearing is NOT a direct bolt on. You have to take out the old one from the sleeve and put a new one in. I saw it in one of your pictures earlier. You have everything, so just swap out the throw out bearing. Here's the write up. I ended up buying OEM throw out bearing BTW. If I'm wrong, you do have a bigger throw out bearing somehow. Let me know what's the case.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=316626

the guy that gave the clutch kit to me said it goes to a 91 240sx, would that work on my sohc 240sx?

also, today i tried to completely remove all the fluid in the transmission.. heres some pics.. there was a little mixture in the fluid that came out... a little water and tranny fluid.. heh

then when i took the lower drain plug it had a **** load of metal flakey **** on it, then i whiped it off and realized it was a magnet... in this pic you can kind of see TINY metal **** on it from the tranny, this mean some of the gears have been grinding?

Modified by okinawa drift at 12:15 AM 5/21/2008

Better get all that water out. Maybe you should leave the drain and fill plugs open and hook up a hair dryer or leaf blower through the shifter. Seal up the input nice and tight and circulate air through it to dry up any water that can't be drained out... Might sound silly but I don't think it could hurt.

Quote, originally posted by okinawa drift »

Remove the seal on the shifter side and leave it like this for a couple of days. All the oil and stuff should come out. Yeah, I also had some shavings too. Shavings are okay, but chunk is bad, so you are good.

KA Motor Part Out Here
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...-sale

that, or should i try and buy one off someone?

kevin

EDIT: i have an extra breather hose, but i am sure you can find one closer than the opposite side of the country.

Modified by diggles240 at 2:38 AM 5/25/2008

kevin

EDIT: just send me an e-mail if you can't find it any place else.

ahh and for the bell housing bracket, you think my automatic tranny will have one i can use? or is it different?

TWIT @RB30DET

and finally the last part of my clutch pedal came in, (the bushings that holds the spring), it was a ***** putting the spring on but managed to get it on there.. ended up scratching the hell out of my housing that i just re-painted oh well

probably spend.. hmm $40-50ish total on clutch pedal, that will hopefully last for a while..

kevin

Quote, originally posted by okinawa drift »

and finally the last part of my clutch pedal came in, (the bushings that holds the spring), it was a ***** putting the spring on but managed to get it on there.. ended up scratching the hell out of my housing that i just re-painted oh well

Here's the trick. This large bolt goes on last after everything is in place. You need some elbow grease, but you can install spring and bushings without scratching the housing. You will need someone to put the bolt in the hole while you line up the housing and clutch pedal.