Winter project update thread 07-08

[Darius]

Well I have to tear all of my engine harness wiring apart again and redo it. The damn "log" is located exactly where that IACV and air regulator valve is located on the Greddy manifold. So now I have to unravel all of it and move it to the frame rail. Such a PITA. I almost have all of my turbo lines fitted up and they look pretty good. Getting closer yet further from finishing...

[Shocker]

Sounds like fun, I'm in the same boat tidying up, get some pics up!

[Darius]

I spent pretty much all day today redoing the wiring harness location and getting the intake manifold installed. I will have a writeup on the phenolic gasket install coming soon! Credit to my girlfriend Casie for holding the two sides in place while I installed the bolts. She's such a big helper

Here are some pics of the wiring and intake manifold install:





Money Shot!

[Shocker]

your wiring looks a bit like mine under there. Even after I get it as neat as possible, it still is all crammed in... it doesn't help the coolant hoses, vac lines, and oil lines for the cooler are all under their either.

Looking nice.

[Coolwhip]

I'm liking it

[Darius]

Little update:

Got the injectors in and she fired up after a little coaxing. I have a startup video of it here:



I performed the FC initialization and idle learn procedure, then went for a cruise up the street and back. Got into a tiny bit of boost and the compressor/BOV surged like a mofo! choof-choof-choof. Tried lightening the spring tension to help curb that, but I think it will have to happen under part throttle.

I have to meet some friends for dinner and it is raining here so I'm going to hold off on tuning it until tomorrow. Just thought I'd fill you guys in on my accomplishment.

Thanks to Deatschwerks for turning the injectors around so fast for me!! I lubed the crap out of them this time and they popped in with hardly any effort.

[S14-NEO]

sounds nice and smooth man, diid you use vasoline like i suggested?

[Darius]

Yep! I lubed up both the top and bottom o-rings a lot and that did the trick. Hardly had to push on them at all. Thanks for the tip!

[lucky7]

sounds good man. i got mine today, and i am in love all over again. it moves out pretty damn good.

[S14-NEO]

np man anytime...glad you got her going again...lets try and keep it that way for a bit huh....hehe

[meet07]

Yeah I have a big tub of vasaline at work. I mess with alot of O-Ring, Jet-A type stuff and it always does the trick.

[mott6904]

Nice bro now it is time for some vids of this beast tearing up the streets.

[Darius]

In the process of tuning it this week. Hope to have it tuned well enough for some WOT pulls by Friday. I'm having issues with overheating though. Not sure if the fans have enough power to pull air thru the intercooler and push thru the radiator. Can't really tune when the temp goes over 89C since it starts to pull timing.

[Shocker]

re-bleed your coolant system. I had the same initial issue, I had TONS of bubbles left over, took about 4-5 times of the thermo opening/closing to get them all out. (i've got a 4" thick IC, stock s-13 front bumper lol) Gawd pointed out the lower shroud that goes under the car as well should be on there.

89 degree's isn't that hot though... sure its a little more than ideal but its not crazy by any means.

[Darius]

I removed the stock bleeder bolt assembly, but I think I'm going to reinstall that little hose somehow and just tuck it underneath the intake manifold when I don't need it. I think air in the system is part of the problem because the intake manifold is extremely hot to the touch.

And yep I reinstalled the plastic shroud underneath the engine.

[Shocker]

Matt you don't need to use the bleeder, just make sure you have the front end of the car jacked up so that the rad cap is the highest point. You will be amazed on the excess air in the system it didn't get when on the flat ground.

[Coolwhip]

Matt you don't need to use the bleeder, just make sure you have the front end of the car jacked up so that the rad cap is the highest point. You will be amazed on the excess air in the system it didn't get when on the flat ground.

True story

[Darius]

Ok I'll give that a shot tonight. And see how much air I can get out of it.

[l0nestar]

Matt you don't need to use the bleeder, just make sure you have the front end of the car jacked up so that the rad cap is the highest point. You will be amazed on the excess air in the system it didn't get when on the flat ground.

Hmm.. I shall try this as well. Just let the car set like this for a while, and continue to attempt to 'burp' it? I can't find a hill or incline near by, and I can't use ramps. I'm on a stock S13, stock suspension, and 16" wheels, and the ramps still hit my bumper before they even touch my tires

[Shocker]

Hmm.. I shall try this as well. Just let the car set like this for a while, and continue to attempt to 'burp' it? I can't find a hill or incline near by, and I can't use ramps. I'm on a stock S13, stock suspension, and 16" wheels, and the ramps still hit my bumper before they even touch my tires

ramps?

you own an rb power 240, get to the automotive store get a low profile jack, and a pair of stands lol.

That last time I bled it I turned the car on(cold), heater full blast, front end jacked, rad cap off, rad full (not over flowing left about .5 " room between the top of the endtanks) and overflow half filled. Once the thermo opened, burps and all kinds of bubbles were rushing out of the cap, spilling all over. (be careful to not let the car stall, all that fluid dumps on your alt belt and it will start squealing like a ***** trying to stall) I repeated this about 5-6 times of the thermo opening and closing before I saw no further bubbles/burbs leaving the system. Finished by capping that ****.

Notes

- be sure to refill the rad after it splashes some of the coolant out

-watch the coolant temps with the fans off, I switched mine on once they hit 200 ish degrees and continued the bleed while the temps feel off. ( I had to switch them off again at the end as the temps weren't allowing the thermo to open, use your brain on this one, its trial and error)

-once done fill your coolant over flow to its proper level.

enjoy!

[gawdzilla]

i did notice that switching to a top mount setup the car in general ran hotter. are you using good e-fans? that was a big part of my problem

[Darius]

I'm using two Perma-cool 10" fans that are rated for about 1000 cfm each as pushers (19010). They are mounted to the A/C condenser ahead of a 3-inch Griffin radiator.

[gawdzilla]

I'm using two Perma-cool 10" fans that are rated for about 1000 cfm each as pushers (19010). They are mounted to the A/C condenser ahead of a 3-inch Griffin radiator.

that may be part of your problem. i had 2 12" ebay fans that were claimed at similar cfm ratings on mine, mounted directly to the front of the radiator as pushers. they didnt really do the job. also mounting them to the condensor is probably even further "diluting" the air your radiator is seeing.

i have the FAL-240 dual fan shrouded now and it works a lot better. it's a big amp draw hog but they work very well and come with a rubber seal to make sure all they push goes through the rad.

Do your temps visibly come down once the fans kick on? Or do they simply level out and stop rising?

[S14-NEO]

that may be part of your problem. i had 2 12" ebay fans that were claimed at similar cfm ratings on mine, mounted directly to the front of the radiator as pushers. they didnt really do the job. also mounting them to the condensor is probably even further "diluting" the air your radiator is seeing.

i have the FAL-240 dual fan shrouded now and it works a lot better. it's a big amp draw hog but they work very well and come with a rubber seal to make sure all they push goes through the rad.

Do your temps visibly come down once the fans kick on? Or do they simply level out and stop rising?

i had a similar problem with mine concerning amp draw and generally taking power away from the other important things like coil packs, fuel pump etc....when i upgraded to a Quest alternator that helped tremendously.

[Darius]

gawdzilla - the fans don't seem like they really push that much air. I think they make more noise than anything else. I have them hardwired because my DiF fan controller was not kicking on when it should have. So I can't notice if they make a difference when they turn on, but I know they don't keep the temp from rising above 89-90C.

Tonight I am going to look into where the air can escape between the condenser and radiator and see if there is something I can do there. I think it will end up being me buying some large quality efans and some aluminum sheet metal to make ducting. There's no way I'm taking that A/C condenser. I WILL HAVE A/C!!

[Carl H]

spal hp 12" dual pushers...its a tornado under the hood.

[Darius]

I went to bleed the coolant like you said...

Jacked it up in the airTook the radiator cap offRadiator was already full into the neckStarted the engineCoolant rose to the point of spilling out of the neck and all over the place within 15 seconds. Put the cap back on (splashing more out)Turned off the engineLogged onto NICO

WTF does this indicate? The thermostat is obviously closed like it should be, but why does the coolant overflow out of the radiator without the cap on?

Also checked the gap between the condenser and radiator and there is a 1/2" gap on one side and a 3/4" gap on the other. Time to hit up Home Depot for some more weather stripping.

[cdorhout]

Time to hit up Home Depot for some more weather stripping.

Guess you shouldn't have given it all to me.

Kidding, I still have it if you need it.

[Coolwhip]

spal hp 12" dual pushers...its a tornado under the hood.

True Story tis what I run. Big top mount and all. Takes temps down to 160* in FL.

Pulls amps like a mofo though.

[Darius]

Do you guys have the s-blades (1340 cfm) or the straight blades (1630 cfm)?

cdorhout - don't worry about it. I need to swing by Lowe's tomorrow for another size and some other stuff anyways.