WHY CAN'T I HOLD 15 PSI?!? Another dissatisfied, jaded KA-T owner.

[Warped]

gotta love the service manual picture looks like something michael jackson would draw up for that pic

[koukiKA240]

I have mine removed, as well as my egr stuff, i think you said you had your egr stuff installed, and if you do, this could cause the 3k reving automatically, the valve is no longer actuated by the thing u removed allowing air into the intake manifold. My advise to you at this point is block off egr, i know it may seem like another step that is not gauranteed to work but it takes all of an hr to block off on the intake manifold side and find a plug for the side on the exhaust, hell less than an hr.~Sam

[MarkEmark]

I have mine removed, as well as my egr stuff, i think you said you had your egr stuff installed, and if you do, this could cause the 3k reving automatically, the valve is no longer actuated by the thing u removed allowing air into the intake manifold. My advise to you at this point is block off egr, i know it may seem like another step that is not gauranteed to work but it takes all of an hr to block off on the intake manifold side and find a plug for the side on the exhaust, hell less than an hr.~Sam

The thing is, I'll have to put it all back on in less than a year for emissions testing...Also, where do you guys actually block it off from? Looking through ebay, this would seem ideal:



Although it'd be impossible to remove this with the intake mani still on.

And one hour to do this?!? Maybe with the intake manifold off the car/the engine out of the car...this would take me all day with that manifold still on...it's a tight fit right up against the firewall. Unless you guys are only removing the upper portion of the intake manifold?
Modified by MarkEmark at 5:57 PM 7/23/2005

[MarkEmark]

It seems all of you guys have lost interest in my engine problems...I don't blame you, I pretty much have as well...

But I re-installed the EGRC-BPT valve, and the engine still races to 3000 rpm+ right when I start it...I don't get it?!? All that I did when I was pressurizing everything was take off certain couplers, plug certain couplers, and pressurize everything....then I took the EGRC-BPT valve off, it ran like sh1t and idled at 3k rpm....then I put it right back on and it does the same thing?!?

What the hell could be causing this now???? Every sensor is connected, and I've never had an idle issue, ever.

[NateDogg]

Throttle cable stuck open? lol...

[MarkEmark]

That was the first thing I checked.

I should just remove all of that EGR crap...I think I may try to do it without removing the intake manifold, because I can already see an IM bolt that will be impossible to remove with the engine in the car. As long as I can disconnect the EGR tube, then I'll be able to remove the valve, then I think I'll be able to get off the flange that mounts between the lower/upper intake manifold....I could be entirely wrong though.

[veilside180sx]

I think everyone else is having problems tracking down stuff for you to. Since it's not in front of the rest of us.

Hopefully you get it worked out. I agree it's a pita to get to (egr/bpt) with the engine in the car. I know it's been done, and I have a lot of respect for those that can pull it off.

[sliders]

allright guy hope this can help you with your problems .. first things first NO your egr valve has nothing to do with a high idle..only recirculates exhaust gas wich you dont want or need in their anyways take it off block it off and hang on to valve for smog testing...secondly you need to check your paramaters of your IACV and anyother sensors you have on your TB these and only these control your idle as for your turbo leaks hopefully youve gotten them fixed but if you have a leak coming from center on turbo it is probably your seals unless your wastegate is leaking of inside the turbo and lastly only need to tee your boost gauge into one vacuum line not off a tee with 4 other components the more components you have on the same line the more inaccurate the gauge and your other compenants will read and operate

[koukiKA240]

i have an idea, take a break. For like 3 days dont work on the car and relax and enjoy your down time, get your mind off the project. After those 3 days are up go back to square one. and slowly work through it all again. Dont skip over the simple stuff, it could be something simple. Just relax and rest for a bit. it usually helps.~Sam

[crzycav86]

You mentioned that you had a crack in the EGR pipe going to the exhaust. I think if that pipe is sucking in fresh air as well as exhaust gases, it would make a higher idle.... That might be something to think about.

[MarkEmark]

allright guy hope this can help you with your problems .. first things first NO your egr valve has nothing to do with a high idle..only recirculates exhaust gas wich you dont want or need in their anyways take it off block it off and hang on to valve for smog testing...secondly you need to check your paramaters of your IACV and anyother sensors you have on your TB these and only these control your idle as for your turbo leaks hopefully youve gotten them fixed but if you have a leak coming from center on turbo it is probably your seals unless your wastegate is leaking of inside the turbo and lastly only need to tee your boost gauge into one vacuum line not off a tee with 4 other components the more components you have on the same line the more inaccurate the gauge and your other compenants will read and operate

I still don't understand though, if the EGR system has nothing to do with idle, then why is my idle at 3000+ rpm now? I did not remove or disconnect ANYTHING besides the EGRC-BPT...and then I immediately re-installed it, and it's impossible to install it incorrectly. Every sensor is connected, and everything was working perfectly before I removed the EGRC-BPT. Thats all I removed. I checked the EGR valve too and it functions fine...so the valve isn't stuck open or closed.

Also, regarding the boost gauge coming off of multiple vacuum Ts: this should not affect it's functioning, or accuracy, at all. Pressure is uniform throughout a closed system; it doesn't matter how many T's are there as long as the whole system is closed. Even with the boost leak, every thing connected to the vacuum T's are still seeing the same amount of pressure (that is, the pressure in the intake manifold).

Crzycav86: the crack in the EGR pipe has been there for almost 2 weeks, and the engine has ran perfectly with this crack, so I know the crack isn't causing any high idle.

I'm stumped....I really have no idea why it'd be revving so high. All that I did was remove the EGRC-BPT, and then the engine idled high (I thought the removal of this valve was the CAUSE for this). But after putting it back in, it does the exact same thing regarding the idle?!??! Makes no sense whatsoever to me. Something else must be causing it, but I have not done a single thing besides remove and then re-install the EGRC-BPT valve.

[SSS]

If there is a crack in the piping from the exhaust to the EGR valve, it will be allowing unmetered air into the engine.Same goes for the EGR actuator.

[MarkEmark]

If there is a crack in the piping from the exhaust to the EGR valve, it will be allowing unmetered air into the engine.Same goes for the EGR actuator.

Well if this is the case, I certainly can't feel this extra air being allowed into the engine...I've run the car with that EGR tube completely unblocked and it ran identical to when the tube was blocked...idle was rock solid at 750 rpms like it's always been, which is why I know the crack in the EGR tube is not causing it to idle at 3000 rpm (because it idled at 750 when the tube was completely vented).

It just makes no sense why it's doing this now. I haven't changed anything or fuccked around with anything, except for the EGRC-BPT valve, and I immediately re-installed it.

[LukeTownsend]

you can pass emissions without egr. Just remove that stuff, they dont check under the hood for emissions stuff do they?

[crzycav86]

you can pass emissions without egr. Just remove that stuff, they dont check under the hood for emissions stuff do they?

How? Denatured alcohol?

And yeah, they check for that stuff in my county in TX.

[Warped]

mark have you tried to loosen the transmission mount and both motor mounts and raising the back of the transmission to get at the egr easier?

[WDRacing]

disconnect both throttle cables, cruise and throttle, restart and see what happens. The is nothing in the system that will make your car idle all the way to 3000, you can't even adjust the IACV that high. Also, disconnect the TPS.

Post your findings.

WD

[MarkEmark]

mark have you tried to loosen the transmission mount and both motor mounts and raising the back of the transmission to get at the egr easier?

No, I haven't bothered screwing around with that yet, but you're right, it will be a lot easier if I unbolt the transmission mount and loosen the motor mounts....The transmission unbolted will cause the engine to tilt back quite a bit....but honestly, I've had zero motivation to screw around with this problem the last couple of days.

WD...I'll try that (tomorrow probably) and tell you what happens.

[WDRacing]

I know how you feel man, I just finished my second turbo, mani, downpipe and intake fab/install and my damn battery is dead and I broke my IAT sensor. More parts to add to the list...

Best of luck man.

[BillKlineVT]

Although it'd be impossible to remove this with the intake mani still on.

And one hour to do this?!? Maybe with the intake manifold off the car/the engine out of the car...this would take me all day with that manifold still on...it's a tight fit right up against the firewall. Unless you guys are only removing the upper portion of the intake manifold?

It's not impossible to remove the EGR while still in the car. I did it no problem when I blocked mine off, and I don't have little dinky hands either. There are 3 bolts (forget the size of the head... 12 or 13mm?) on the EGR and then you disconnect that vacuum diaphram thing and block off the vac. lines that go to it. I just made my own blockoff plate out of 16 ga aluminum plate by tracing the egr flange after I took it off and then drilling the holes to match it, then RTV'ed the plate on and bolted it back on. If I can swap out an IACV in a half hour without even thinking of removing the intake manifold, you should be able to remove an EGR quicker than that, hehe.

[MarkEmark]

It's not impossible to remove the EGR while still in the car. I did it no problem when I blocked mine off, and I don't have little dinky hands either. There are 3 bolts (forget the size of the head... 12 or 13mm?) on the EGR and then you disconnect that vacuum diaphram thing and block off the vac. lines that go to it. I just made my own blockoff plate out of 16 ga aluminum plate by tracing the egr flange after I took it off and then drilling the holes to match it, then RTV'ed the plate on and bolted it back on. If I can swap out an IACV in a half hour without even thinking of removing the intake manifold, you should be able to remove an EGR quicker than that, hehe.

It's not impossible, but it sure looks like a pain. I don't know how you did it so easily? The the third bolt holding the EGR valve to the intake manifold looks impossible to access....I can't get a socket on the (12 mm) bolt, even with a universal joint, and I can't massage a wrench into the chasm between the upper/lower runners either.

Not to mention, the other 2 bolts that actually hold the tube to the EGR valve need to be accessed from under the car, but somehow I need to snake my arm up and around the bell-housing. I'll try it when I get a chance.

WD---I just started the car up with the TPS unplugged and the cruise control/throttle cable disconnected, and it did the exact same thing! This problem is really freaking me out now. So bizarre. I did NOTHING to the car, and all of a sudden it's acting all weird?

[huguetpj]

Mark.... I did not read through the entire thread but I can tell you I've had my share of issues... and there is a lot of people out there that have had the same. It's been 2 years since I started my project... I've driven my car less than half a year in that time frame. Just yesterday I managed to run 15PSI on my car and let me tell you... it makes all the issues worthwhile.

All this only to tell you to hang in there man. It sometimes helps to forget about the car for a week or so (as if it was possible ) and then try to think stuff over.

On the EGR stuff... I tried to keep mine when starting my project... you know the enviroment and all that sh... but it was giving me issues with exahust leaks. I just removed it completely. Your car will pass emissions with it... unless the guy looks under the hood for it.

It is one hell of an ordeal to remove it with the motor in, but if it is leaking... it needs to be done. Try lifting the engine as WD said...

[WDRacing]

I pulled all my EGR stuff with the motor in and I have ABS. So it can definitly be done.

Mark, have you reset the ECU? The 3000rpm from start thing has me baffeled.

My starter went out for no reason on me today. One day after I got it back together and running. SO I got one day of boost and now another 8-9 days of downtime.

Makes you wonder doesn't...

[LukeTownsend]

You dont even need denatured alcohol to pass usualy but dosent hurt it, I would just retard it a little first and see how that goes at emissions. If I was you Id cap off all those vacuum lines, Make a egr blocking plate outta tin or thin metal and just put it under the egr valve; no emissions guy will notice anything out of line.

[MarkEmark]

I pulled all my EGR stuff with the motor in and I have ABS. So it can definitly be done.

Mark, have you reset the ECU? The 3000rpm from start thing has me baffeled.

My starter went out for no reason on me today. One day after I got it back together and running. SO I got one day of boost and now another 8-9 days of downtime.

Makes you wonder doesn't...

How do I go about re-setting the ECU? Does it make a difference that mine is a JWT ECU for 50 lb/hr fuel injectors and a Cobra MAFS?

That sucks about your starter WD. Fortunately, starters are VERY easy to replace on the 240....I know, because I had to remove mine to get it tested when I first got the engine back...just 2 bolts and it's out.

[fiznat]

Another thing to try:

While your motor is idling, pinch the IACV hose shut right there where it connects to your cold pipe. This should be the ONLY place your motor is getting air from during idle-- so if the motor still runs while that hose is shut, you are getting air into your intake manifold from a different place.

Try to pinch the hose slowly so you can get a gauge of how much air is coming in and from where. If the engine does die when you plug that hose, I would start looking into electrical stuff-- but let us know what happens when you plug that hose up.

[Florida240sx]

After 3hrs of fighting my egr system I can remove it in about 15minutes now. Take a sawzaw to your egr pipe where it is connected to your mani.that eliminates it.Tried for an hour trying to unscrew it...3 bolts hold it it on.Simply undo the 2 that hold it and the last one is a pain.Think I was able to use my 1/4" socket on it.Also able to get a wrench in there to break it loose.Going to need small hands.Went to my grinder with egr valve.Had a piece of sheet metal.Grinded sheet metal down to cove egr valve.Applied gasket sealerto both sides and retightened egr valve with sheet metal blocking the hole.

[WDRacing]

Sawzall usually fixes most of my problems as well.

Fiz, great idea with the IACV line...I'll be doing that myself.

The starter would be alot easier to swap if I didn't have ABS. I can't even adjust my idle for christs sakes.

Mark, I'm not sure if the JWT ECU can be reset or not. I usually use the knob on the back of the ecu. Or you can simply unplug the ecu for a few minutes or remove the neg terminal from the battery for a few minutes. This will reset the stock ecu. Dunno about the JWT version.

MArk, disconnect the MAF, remove the intake pipe from the throttle body and restart. Varify the throttle is staying closed. Also, see what the voltage is on the TPS when its closed. IIRC it should be 0 closed and .5 or 5 volts when its WOT. Can someone varify those numbers for me?

WD

[PMan_S13]

I just scrolled through most of this post.. but I thought I would add this really quick.

I had this similar problem. Not being able to hold boost at higher RPM's? It turned out that the valve timing was off by a single tooth on the cam gears. It was very difficult to see the difference, but it you do the math, that's like 40 degrees of valve timing.

The car would idle and run great, like I couldn't tell anything was wrong timing wise. But it would boost to 15psi and then just spool back as it climbed rpms. I thought it was all kinds of leaks too.. but you have to think, any leaking is going to screw with your AFR. and you could tell if 10 psi of air wasn't making it in the cylinders. That would be horribly horribly rich.

I'd take a look at the valve timing and just see what you get. At least you could put that out of the back of your mind.

it worked for me in a similar situation, maybe that will help you out.

good luck

[MarkEmark]

Another thing to try:

While your motor is idling, pinch the IACV hose shut right there where it connects to your cold pipe. This should be the ONLY place your motor is getting air from during idle-- so if the motor still runs while that hose is shut, you are getting air into your intake manifold from a different place.

Try to pinch the hose slowly so you can get a gauge of how much air is coming in and from where. If the engine does die when you plug that hose, I would start looking into electrical stuff-- but let us know what happens when you plug that hose up.

I tried this...there's definitely air flowing through this line, but pinching it shut (as best as I can) barely changes the RPMs the engine idles at (it lowers the idle by maybe 250 or so)...it still idles wicked high...But it certainly doesn't come close to dying. God this is pissing me off. Everything electrical is connected, I haven't forgotten anything. The car ran perfectly (except for the boost leak) before I pressure tested everything. All that I did was pressure test stuff, then remove the EGRC-BPT, then put it back in. That's it. It ran perfectly before that, so it should be running perfectly now.

I tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, and that did nothing either.

Regarding the EGR, I'm not going to mutilate it or destroy it removing it...I need to put it back on in less than a year for when I go through emissions, not because they look under the hood, but because I really don't think I'll be able to pass w/o it installed...it's supposed to help reduce NOx emissions, and the last time I went through emissions, i passed by 6 parts per million in the NOx department.