Most of the problems that I have seen with the Biki are coming from California OBD1 mother boards. I've been looking around for a fed issued ecu for around $30 dollars with no luck.AZhitman wrote:Vin - I'm running the Biki and love it, I've not noticed any issues with mine...
Also, I'll likely never recommend I-J to anyone. Their CS is horrible, and the owner was absolutely no help. I got my parts, but waited WAY too long... I also spent 8 hours in the machine shop modifying mine.
Ok guys. I can't be too specific here but I'll give a few specs1. Rebello DIDN'T build this engine. Dave Auerbach did.2. SOHC KA's don't like more than 7800rpm's They tend to turn the rockers into "dust"3. Compression ratio on this engine is 14.38 to 14. 44mm Mikuni carbs with 34mm chokes on nissan comp manifolds5. Cam is .620 lift (can't tell you duration, sorry)6. Cyl head, manifolds and exhaust have MANY hours of work7. Torque is 231@5200 and HP is 281@7500 at the flywheel8. Rebuild interval is 1000 miles (running between 5200 and 7800 rev range)9. You absolutly CAN run this engine on the street. When I drive it through the paddock to the false grid, it drives like puppy! At 7800rpm's it's a bit like !DjPantsSpecR wrote:well, you're in luck.
we're gonna dyno test the n/a manifold on my 11.2:1 compression car. we're also going to dyno test it on a stock 240, jsut to see what baseline gains are. we're all eager to see the results.
I'm trying to imply we have to explore higher revs to compete with higher reving low output motors. You could build for as much mid range as you can, but there is always a ceiling of VE.
I dont know what the revs are on that Rebello KA i posted, but since it claims 280whp, im sure they are significant.
look at the specs " * Engine Builder: Dave Auerbach * Manufacturer: Nissan * Type: KA24 * Displacement: 2.4 liter * Induction: Twin Mikuni 44 side draft * Heads: Nissan 12 valve * Block: Nissan * Main Caps: Nissan Comp * Crankshaft: Nissan Comp * Connecting Rods: Carillo * Pistons: J&E * Camshaft: Rebello * Valves: Nissan Comp * Valve Train: Nissan Comp * Clutch: Tilton 2 disk 5 1/2 * Pressure Plate: Tilton 5 1/2 * Flywheel: Tilton 5 1/2 * Exhaust: 4-2-1 * Total Time: 1.2 hrs * Races: 1 "
this motor is obviously built for high rpm use, which is necessary for its claimed 340hp output. obviously this is for a race car, but it gives you a bit of an idea of what you need to go through to build huge N/A numbers out of these.
Especially because this is a carb'd SOHC.
Mind sharing what you're running? Is your car stripped or full interior? That kind of 1/4 mile time would seem to be in the 180-200whp area (13.5 is about what a mild sr20 runs, is it not?)240ka24 wrote:I dont know what kind of power Im making but my s13 ran below a 13.5. I run on untinted 92 octane pump gas, run this on the street and do not spin over 7500rpm. why would anyone think that the dohc would do any less? btw, the power making parts on my engine did not even come close to $3000. I think we should really stop the talk about $10,000 engines and 10,000rpm. no offense guys but thats all Ive been reading for years here. I dont think 10g's and 10,000rpm is needed. peace
my 240 can run a flat 14 ...high 13s w/ its bolt on no reason his numbers arent correct...its all in the driver and the motor is not meant to be reved out like some honda pos ...its oversquare...its a tq motor...similar to a camaro motor ...it gets it power from its design not how many times the crack spins..Ajax wrote:Mind sharing what you're running? Is your car stripped or full interior? That kind of 1/4 mile time would seem to be in the 180-200whp area (13.5 is about what a mild sr20 runs, is it not?)
have you lost your mind?? not to be an a** or anything but what have you been smoking??? there is no way a 240sx, especially a SOHC with just bolt-ons can run a high 13. maybe a turbo 240 with bolt ons.shpaintball wrote:my 240 can run a flat 14 ...high 13s w/ its bolt on no reason his numbers arent correct...its all in the driver and the motor is not meant to be reved out like some honda pos ...its oversquare...its a tq motor...similar to a camaro motor ...it gets it power from its design not how many times the crack spins..
Not you again!!!!!Square decking isn't something that you can do with a KA block. You haven't changed the rod stroke ratio, or destroke I say you get canned from this forum.....Look up the fine definition of square decking.240ka24 wrote:but I will tell you that its all ab out ....SQUARE DECKING THE BLOCK!!! LOL.. oh, the interior is stripped,my WHOLE suspension is shot and worn. I cant tell if the suspension is helping or killing my time. peace.
Yes you CAN square deck a KA block. You can square deck ANY block! Square decking a block is when you machine the top side of the block in direct relationship to the upper saddle of the main bearing bores. It's done on a "correct" engine blueprinting to get every piston at the exact same piston height in the bore. If you take a "production" block and measure the distance from #1 main to the top surface of the block and then repeat the procedure on #5 main and the top of the block, you will most likely find that one end of the block is "thicker" than the other. The block is then not "square". When I'm building an engine that I want something like .009 piston protrusion, I HAVE to square deck the block. If the block is .005 out of square, then I may end up with #1 piston at .009 protrusion and #4 at .014 protrusion and my compression ratio will be where I want on #1 and too high on #4 and may even cause piston to "something" contact. The difference in compression ratio between #1 and #4 will also make for some interesting crank harmonics as well as problems tuning especially with carb jetting.Bigvinnie wrote:
Not you again!!!!!Square decking isn't something that you can do with a KA block. You haven't changed the rod stroke ratio, or destroke I say you get canned from this forum.....Look up the fine definition of square decking.
You missed the point. I had an argument with another member that became banned in the forum. The claim was that square decking made a alot HP and torque to his engine with an all stock build. The HP gains on square decking are to small, to the price that it cost to square deck a block.If in fact the build has exceeded an amount to where it is worth square decking than go for it. In most cases a stock internal KA will show minimal to little gains. So really no need to square deck unless you show it makes HP and torque across the board......I can make more power clover leaf welding a head or milling it than I can square decking the block....mikegt3 wrote:
Yes you CAN square deck a KA block. You can square deck ANY block! Square decking a block is when you machine the top side of the block in direct relationship to the upper saddle of the main bearing bores. It's done on a "correct" engine blueprinting to get every piston at the exact same piston height in the bore. If you take a "production" block and measure the distance from #1 main to the top surface of the block and then repeat the procedure on #5 main and the top of the block, you will most likely find that one end of the block is "thicker" than the other. The block is then not "square". When I'm building an engine that I want something like .009 piston protrusion, I HAVE to square deck the block. If the block is .005 out of square, then I may end up with #1 piston at .009 protrusion and #4 at .014 protrusion and my compression ratio will be where I want on #1 and too high on #4 and may even cause piston to "something" contact. The difference in compression ratio between #1 and #4 will also make for some interesting crank harmonics as well as problems tuning especially with carb jetting.
Your mileage may vary, Mike
So in any case can you square deck a KA block, in reality yes, but it is a 4 banger not V shaped engine block (is the cost really worth it?) NO, not unless the build demands it for optimal performance. I would highly doubt that casting on a 4 banger is that bad that it truely needs square decking to begin with, especially when you are dealing with OEM.Bigvinnie wrote:Modular FORDS
The process of “Square decking” a block is when you make both deck heights symmetrical to the centerline of the crankshaft. This then requires the crankshaft throws, connecting rods and piston pin heights all be indexed to insure they are all the exact same length. Generally this is too much work, and not cost effective for the average performance engine.