welp she runs, but having idle problems

[PapaSmurf2k3]

FYI while doing this its a good idea to pull the cap off and make sure the rotor is aligned somewhat with the #1 cylinder (on compression stroke), otherwise you could end up 180 out.

[j-z]

well i pulled the cap off with #1 at tdc and the rotor was at the 9:30 mark. so that blows as i now have to find a vacuum leak or something. i didnt bother taking the whole dizzy out at all. can anyone tell me where their rotor is at on #1, or better yet post a pic. thanks

[jr_ss]

I highly doubt a vacuum leak would cause your nasty idle or what not. Have you checked the TPS and the MAF? How about the coolant temp sensor? I'm just throwing things out there, because that would have to be a huge *** vacuum leak to make it not idle..

[Florida240sx]

Brake booster line cracked or fuel filter??? Problems I have had in the past.

[j-z]

well i was originally sold a bad z32 maf by a member on here which pisses me off because he basically said tough shlt. i have my stock maf on there which i know is good. the coolant temp sensor and sender are both brand new from nissan that i put on with the build. the tps works as i set it before i even tried to crank her. the booster line is fine. i have a brand new z32 filter on there as well. im gonnna try unplugging the front o2 sensor and see if that changes anything. because i did have to extend the wires on it. does my dizzy sound right though?

[j-z]

alright well i unplugged the o2 and it ran the same. i took it out and rewired it with connnectors this time. hooked everything back up and still the same thing. but this time after not even touching anything for two weeks, when i started it up it would idle up to 1k rpms and start to hold it and sounded pretty strong. then it would start to drop and then all of a sudden cut out. i swapped out the deatcshwerks for my stock 270s and it wouldnt even run with the stock ones. i even reset the afc back to zero for the stock injectors and nothing. i called it quits and left them in there as its way too hot outside. grrrrrrrr... so maybe it is a vacuum leak...

[1995240sxSE]

I think I should have been reading your posts, I was having a maf problem and refused to believe it. But mine was simple, a wire slipped out of the connector. I got that fixed and she revs and idle's. I got kicked off the dyno cause of an oil leak. Apparently my car devoloped a leak at the oil pan while sitting in a garage!!!. WTF is up with my luck??? I was thinking about your situation and thinking maybe you should try going back 1 click on the dizzy, I did this when my exhaust manifold was glowing red! I did that and I could get her to rev t0 2500 with the maf wire loose! Also your idle I bet isnt coming from idle cause I have serious vac issues with mine and she idles! I bet it is either timing or some part is bad on your car!!!

[j-z]

yeah i dont think its a vacuum leak either. i just came in from fixing some shlt i had i put some caps on. it was on the bottom of the upper mani where those vacuum nipples on each runner connect into one and run to the lower timing cover. well i made a custom vacuum only setup for the timing cover so i didnt need to use those nipples on the mani for anything. i put some regular block off caps on them with zipties and thought i was getting a leak from there. well i redid those with some super undestructable zinda riggin type of shlt and i know theyre not leaking at all. i go to start it up and same shlt. i know when i put everything together that theres no way it could have been a vacuum leak anywhere. maybe the timing is off one tooth still... i guess it wouldnt hurt to go out there and turn it a tooth over. how did your car run being a tooth off? and where did your rotor end up being at? also, those nipples i capped off should they have vacuum going to them or does it even matter being capped off? i dont think it does but just throwing it out there.

[1995240sxSE]

you figure anything out yet I found my oil leak and it wuz coming from the oil sending unit, easy fix phew! But I gotta wait until monday or tuesday fo my tune!

[j-z]

welp its def not the dizzy. its been correct the entire time as i pulled it out and looked at the dots. put it in one tooth over and it wouldnt even crank. BUT one thing i did happen to notice is when id turn the ignition switch on to turn the fuel pump on id jump out and look at my fuel psi gauge. it goes up to like 8 psi and then drops back to zero in a sec or two. this is without the motor running (of course DUH). so this leads me to believe this is where my problem is. somewhere with the lower orings on the injectors. NOW this is why shell fire right up and then eventually die off in seconds, but its not bad enough to make it not run at all and thats why i can keep it running with my foot on the throttle letting more air in. damn, my fuking luck i swear. im done for today, so if its not raining tomorrow im gonna take those fukers out once again and see wtf is up.

[rn240sx]

welp its def not the dizzy. its been correct the entire time as i pulled it out and looked at the dots. put it in one tooth over and it wouldnt even crank. BUT one thing i did happen to notice is when id turn the ignition switch on to turn the fuel pump on id jump out and look at my fuel psi gauge. it goes up to like 8 psi and then drops back to zero in a sec or two. this is without the motor running (of course DUH). so this leads me to believe this is where my problem is. somewhere with the lower orings on the injectors. NOW this is why shell fire right up and then eventually die off in seconds, but its not bad enough to make it not run at all and thats why i can keep it running with my foot on the throttle letting more air in. damn, my fuking luck i swear. im done for today, so if its not raining tomorrow im gonna take those fukers out once again and see wtf is up.

Been trying to call u and it says you are un-available... If u need me to swing by tonite call me u have my #


Modified by rn240sx at 9:57 PM 6/24/2006

[PapaSmurf2k3]

i cant beleive we have the same symptoms, but my boost gauge reads -3 psi at idle. maybe perhaps your cam timing is off?

[dontbugme]

I was looking at the pics of your install and it looks like you're running the valve cover vent to a catch can and your IAC valve is is supplied from the same location - both of which by-pass the MAF not allowing it to generate any signal. You said you also capped off the individual pipes where the crankcase PVC valve used to enter the intake manifold. I don't know if I'm right about this but those openings would seem to allow a metered flow of air to the engine with the throttle valve closed. Doesn't look like either of these would be too easy to test with your piping but if you could jury rig it somehow it it would eliminate that as a cause.

[j-z]

actually the iacv hose goes straight to the intake side of the turbo in the piping (all vacuum). the valve cover breather hose goes into the catch can and then into the intake side of the turbo piping (vacuum sucked). same with my timing cover, the hose goes into the catch can and then into the intake piping before the turbo (vacuum only). so each and every one of those being in the intake are being sucked through the maf. even though my maf is blow through, it all still goes through it. i still believe my problem lies with the fuel psi gauge going down to zero just after clicking the pump on. cause if it does it while the motor isnt running, then you bet it does it while it is running. also, ive got a question. should the fuel system still hold pressure after shutting it off? for those off you with a gauge on your return line what does it do?

[rn240sx]

I dont recall seeing the fuel press gauge moving until the motor was actually running. I know the pump is running and all but not enough to get a reading until the motor runs and actual pressure starts flowing...

[1995240sxSE]

hey one thing that it could be... check your I.C. lines I just discovered a problem with mine, I.C. line coupler slipped off and was causing problems. Maybe your problem

[dontbugme]

actually the iacv hose goes straight to the intake side of the turbo in the piping (all vacuum). the valve cover breather hose goes into the catch can and then into the intake side of the turbo piping (vacuum sucked). same with my timing cover, the hose goes into the catch can and then into the intake piping before the turbo (vacuum only). so each and every one of those being in the intake are being sucked through the maf. even though my maf is blow through, it all still goes through it. i still believe my problem lies with the fuel psi gauge going down to zero just after clicking the pump on. cause if it does it while the motor isnt running, then you bet it does it while it is running. also, ive got a question. should the fuel system still hold pressure after shutting it off? for those off you with a gauge on your return line what does it do?

If you look at your throttle body you'll see that the valve is closed at idle. This means the only vacuum in the system is after the throttle body. Air being sucked in to the IAC is not going through your MAF or throttle body due to your blow thru configuration. Pipe the IAC line in between your MAF and the throttle body for an easy test. As for your fuel pressure, when the key is on and the engine isn't running you should see around 25 psi and will slowly drop to zero after a few minutes with the key off, though on some FPR's this pressure could stay up for days. With the engine running at idle you should see around 34 psi w/20" of vacuum. This is what a '95 240 does, YMMV.

[300max]

I have the Megan Racing Adjustable FPR and it doesn't show any pressure with the key in the on position, but shows 34 at idle with 20".

Check and recheck the the distributor. I was ready to sell the car until Fiznat just told me to keep trying the distributor. I was one tooth off an it was running extremely rough and then just dying.

[j-z]

thanks for the input guys. as for the dizzy, ive looked at it three times now. took it all the way out and even installed it one tooth over. that made it not run at all. it made the rotor ending up at 11:00. how it sits now its at the 9:30 mark. where does yours sit now 300?? and where did it sit before you changed it? i honestly dont see how any car could run being a tooth off on the dizzy after removing it and seeing how far off it really makes everything. but you and 1995240sxse were running a tooth off?? please tell me where the rotor sits now. .dontbugme, my iacv is still being sucked by vacuum. its routed to the intake tube on the turbo. at idle the air is sucked in through my intake pipe (where the iacv is routed to) and keeps going out of the turbo outlet through the inercooler, through the maf, and into the intake mani. it would be the exact same as if i had it inbetween my maf and TB except with my setup the iacv will only be seeing vacuum. i dont know if were on the same page or not, but ill take anything into consideration. you can explain yourself further if you want to. what about just removing the iacv hose and leave it atmosphere just to see what happens.

[j-z]

lol dontbugme, i just now got what youre saying. didnt take long did it. do you think that would cause the problems im having? its gonna be kinda hard to route the hose after the maf. so from what youre saying is that the only air entering the motor at idle is through the iacv correct?? then if so i guess that could be causing my problem because the maf isnt reading the corect airflow. i just though of an easy way to test your theory. ill place the maf on the filter pipe, and just put a piece of straight pipe where the maf used to go to make it all complete. and this just popped in my head, the other day when i was fuking around with it i think the airflow on the afc read 0 when i didnt have the throttle open. hmmmmmmmmmmm...... maybe were on to something here. get back to me and let me know what you think. ill def test out moving the maf to make it read the iacv air entering the motor. thanks!

[dontbugme]

dontbugme, my iacv is still being sucked by vacuum. its routed to the intake tube on the turbo. at idle the air is sucked in through my intake pipe (where the iacv is routed to) and keeps going out of the turbo outlet through the inercooler, through the maf, and into the intake mani. it would be the exact same as if i had it inbetween my maf and TB except with my setup the iacv will only be seeing vacuum. i dont know if were on the same page or not, but ill take anything into consideration. you can explain yourself further if you want to. what about just removing the iacv hose and leave it atmosphere just to see what happens.

When the IAC valve opens it sucks air into the intake manifold. Air flow with the IAC open is the opposite as you describe, if I'm reading you right, your idle air is going from the air filter to the compressor inlet pipe through the hose to the IAC. If you just disconnected it from where you have it now and leave it open to the atmosphere it would be doing the same thing as you have now and will not idle. The only vacuum at idle is in the intake manifold as the throttle is shut. Upstream of the throttle where the MAF is there is no or very little vacuum.

[dontbugme]

I see you posted just as I was trying to clarify what I was saying.

Yeah, it's difficult trying to describe something w/o a picture. What you suggest should work, at least for a test as long IAC line is piped in between the turbo inlet and the MAF.

[dontbugme]

thanks for the input guys. as for the dizzy, ive looked at it three times now. took it all the way out and even installed it one tooth over. that made it not run at all. it made the rotor ending up at 11:00. how it sits now its at the 9:30 mark. where does yours sit now 300?? and where did it sit before you changed it? i honestly dont see how any car could run being a tooth off on the dizzy after removing it and seeing how far off it really makes everything. but you and 1995240sxse were running a tooth off?? please tell me where the rotor sits now.

Looks like yours is set correctly at 9:30. Look at the third pic down, if your locking screw is approximately in the center of the slot your timing is correct as long as your rotor lines up with the cap and plug wire for No. 1 cylinder as shown in the rest of the pics.See: zerothread/161707

[j-z]

yeah the dizzy is inbetween the slots with it being at 9:30. and yes the iacv hose will be inbetween the turbo inlet and maf. i want to go out there right now and change everything real quick but its raining and daylight is just about gone. man if this fixes my problem, which theres a good probability it will, im going to drive my car to wherever youre at and give you a BIG kiss (not on the lips though cause i aint gay). ill def post up tomorrow after i redo everything. check back then. thanks!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

but the IACV isnt routed to the intake mani stock, its routed after the TB, in the intake tubing, where "there is very little vac at idle", so why should it matter?

[wild_maxx]

because it sucks in metered air after the maf. When it sucks in air that is not metered the o2 is giving the ECU a lean reading causing it to add more fuel causing the rich condition. Any air that enters the motor needs to be metered by the MAF to get the proper amount of fuel.

[crzycav86]

these guys are absolutely correct. The way you have it set up, the engine is not reading any air at idle, and so it is not supplying any fuel. You will have to hook up the idle line after the mafs so it can read it.

This also explains why the only way you could keep the car running was by staying on the throttle- the IACV is closed, and you read the correct amount of air.

Also, I dont really like how the oil from the breather is eventually going to pass through your maf sensor. Expect to go through many maf sensors with this setup. I would much rather put a breather filter instead.

[j-z]

MOTHER FVCKER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i swear if its not one thing its a fuking nother. so i swap everything over to where the maf is on the intake infront of the iacv and get place the straight pipe in place of where the maf used to be. go to start it and it just barely cranks over. now this is weird cause i had it on the charger the other day for like two days. its a motorcycle battery charger so thats why i had it on there for so long. well i figured it for sure wouldve started earlier this morning after i changed everything over. it didnt, so i went and put the charger back on for a few hours and it wouldnt even turn over at all. i figured the battery was shot from having being charged so many times since trying to figure out my problem after the build. i took it up to advance to get a new one and they tested it and said it was good. i put it back in my car and the fans and gauges come on, but no starter coming on or anything. i also noticed that my afc no longer comes on at all anymore, but the gauges and shlt do. note this, the afc is wired into the ecu. i checked all of my ignition fuses and anything that could cause the ignition to not work. i then thought my ignition switch could be the problem. i took that off and apart and everything looks perfect on that, so its not that. DAMN im so PISSED! i was really looking forward to hearing a nice smooth idle today and totally opposite. now im thinking he only thing it could be is the ecu. how it all of a sudden took a shlt i have no idea. maybe being on the charger for so long fuked it up?? i dont know. earlier after i got back from having my battery tested when i hooked it up my afc came on, but while i was trying to hit the ignition a few times on like the 4th time the afc just cut off and no longer comes on. i didnt change anything at all for this to happen. all i did was move the maf, no rewiring of that. i got my buddy george at powerline whos gonna let me borrow an auto ecu tomorrow. if anyone has any inputs on what to look for i would greatly appreciate it as always! does it sound like the ecu could be gone? grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

[Florida240sx]

So as you were starting your car it died? Check your grounds of course(probably already did) What does the car? Click at all? My car would jsut click once. It was my positive connection. Everything turned on but no ignition. didn't have a good enough connection. Check your SAFC wiring. No water got inside your car over these past couple days has it? Mine did .

[dontbugme]

In the fuse box next to your throttle body check that the 75 amp fusible link didn't break or blow it's marked "FL 75a" on the cover. If your not sure if it's good, jump it with a 14 gauge wire temporarily. It's hot all the time so be careful.